Cobb Accessport tunes with non cobb parts.

[LarryTheCableGuy]

I am not sure if there is already a thread for this but I was unable to find anything to answer my questions.

Are the tunes I would install through a Cobb AP only compatible with cobb parts?

I want to Install a GS cold air, GS boost controller, GS bypass valve, Nameless catback with the 5" muffler, plus a some point UEL headers and catless downpipe. I don't want to buy these parts through Cobb because GS makes them with a design I like more and for cheaper and I have seen mixed messages on the compatibility with these parts and a AP. I spoke with someone through Cobb and they said I will need a Protune but there is nowhere local to me that would be able to give me a tune without it being way to expensive and from reading a bit on some other threads here the AP could work with these mods but I have also heard from other people adding K&N and other branded cold air intakes and then their GT won't idle but I haven't been able to find anything for the GS cold air. If anyone could clear this up for me so I don't waist money on parts I can't that would be greatly appreciated. 

[AWDFTW]

There is no OTS tune for those mods.  You must have a protune.

[LarryTheCableGuy]

That what I thought but after talking with guy I know at a jdm specific speed shop he said as long as the parts are similar to the cobb ones they would work just fine, cobb only says you need their parts since it's their brand and whatnot. He also did say I can get mail order tunes for my set up if i just call cobb but I'm not sure what the prossess would be for that and how much it would be. 

[BoozeRS05]

10 hours ago, AWDFTW said:

There is no OTS tune for those mods.  You must have a protune.

 

[KZJonny]

What are your plans for turbo, fuel system, engine internals uprgrades, etc.... How old is the car/block?
What are the compression and leakdown numbers?

Car is an '08, so unless you found a real low miler in excellent condition..... your parts list is a recipe for overboost and possibly causing some serious damage to your engine. 

Plan your build and build your plan. What are your trying to acheive?

 

Pardon the million questions, but they're justified. If you're showing up asking if the COBB AP is going to jive with this list of planned parts (it won't, as others have stated) and don't have a clue how e-tuning works (look up Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) but you want to throw thousands in parts at a car, you've got your priorities reversed.

Unless you're going big or swapping to E85, half of what you've listed is a fat waste of time and money.

[shralp]

Assuming your motor is healthy enough to turn up the wick, I’d highly recommend you get it E-tuned remotely to ensure your getting something tailored to your particular parts selection. Should be a few folks on here that can chime in on options. 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

What are your plans for turbo, fuel system, engine internals uprgrades, etc.... How old is the car/block?
What are the compression and leakdown numbers?

Car is an '08, so unless you found a real low miler in excellent condition..... your parts list is a recipe for overboost and possibly causing some serious damage to your engine. 

Plan your build and build your plan. What are your trying to acheive?

 

Pardon the million questions, but they're justified. If you're showing up asking if the COBB AP is going to jive with this list of planned parts (it won't, as others have stated) and don't have a clue how e-tuning works (look up Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) but you want to throw thousands in parts at a car, you've got your priorities reversed.

Unless you're going big or swapping to E85, half of what you've listed is a fat waste of time and money.

It is fairly high milage because that is all I was able to find within a 100 miles (176k) I got a great deal on the car due to being a highmilage car but the motor is very healthy and previous owner took amazing care of her and put a brand new clutch in before selling it. Before I do anything aftermarket I am doing some preventative maintenance first, new sparks, timing belt, water pump, oem turbo inlet, and various gaskets. I do not want to push so much power I will need to upgrade the turbo or have to upgrade the engine internals, at the very least a catback and downpipe for sound and a cold air. I want this to be easily daily drivable without running the risk of blowing her up. In order to ensure the AP tunes will work smoothly I will probably use as many cobb parts as I can. The only place I can go near me for a tune that I know of in Turnin Concepts in Cincinnati and from what I have heard about them is they only tailor to specific people. I have no clue how to tune myself and I do not to risk tuning for my first time on a car I need to get to school and work. The more I think about it the more I am willing to spend the extra cash getting cobb's parts just to make sure everything will work as it should.

One other thing I have noticed it doing that I'm not sure is bad or good, when I do a hard pull I can feel boost kicking in and out, it almost feels like the waist gate is opening and closing to keep boost below a certain level. I don't have any way to monitor the boost to know if that is what is happening or if its a boost leak somewhere or if it's leaning out due to the turbo inlet being worn down and likely having a rip in it. If it is the turbo inlet that will be the first thing to get fixed anyways.

I had a NA 09 legacy before this and I only bought my LGT less than 2 weeks ago so I am still new to having a turbo and I am trying to learn as much as I can about them before I start buying anything to ensure I don't blow it up. 

[BoozeRS05]

An aftermarket/cold air intake is completely unnecessary and would required advanced tuning. The stock intake works great, feel free to add a nice panel filter.

The stock BPV works great, no need to change or try to upgrade.

A boost controller requires advanced tuning and is unnecessary. If you get into more power upgrades it’ll be something to consider.

All you really want is a downpipe (preferably catted) and catback exhaust, then load up stg2 on the AP and run the best octane gas available in your area. It’s that simple.

[LarryTheCableGuy]

5 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

An aftermarket/cold air intake is completely unnecessary and would required advanced tuning. The stock intake works great, feel free to add a nice panel filter.

The stock BPV works great, no need to change or try to upgrade.

A boost controller requires advanced tuning and is unnecessary. If you get into more power upgrades it’ll be something to consider.

All you really want is a downpipe (preferably catted) and catback exhaust, then load up stg2 on the AP and run the best octane gas available in your area. It’s that simple.

That does make sense, I'm not sure if a cold air intake would give turbo flutter because I haven't seen anything explicitly saying how to get flutter but that would really be the only reason I would want a intake assuming that's all it takes. I mean if I spend less money on engine parts then I can use that money for appearance related upgrades.

If say I instill UEL headers with a downpipe and catback would that all still run on a stg2 or would the UEL headers require their own protune?

[KZJonny]

Take @BoozeRS05's advice to heart dude.

Intake = Uselss below 350 awhp. The OEM intake is 'cold air' and does not present a restriction, leave it in there.

Electronic Boost Controller is not needed on a stock turbo, and not supported by a COBB off-the-shelf (OTS) tune. Save that money. Etc...

 

Catless Downpipe may cause you problems. You'll get better performance from a catted DP on the small stock turbo. A little back pressure on it helps control boost spikes or overboot. Not to mention, keeps you legal and not stinking like unburned fuel. If you really MUST have the the BRAAPS   then go for, but know that many/most places won't tune you if you have one anymore and are not 100% track. Hell, most good suppliers don't even make catless DPs anymore.

Turbo flutter = bad. You probably shouldn't be trying to get it. It's great for youtube videos, less good for a turbo you want to stay healthy for a long time.

UEL headers are also not useful to you at stock HP for power gains, unless yours are broken? Stock manifold is already UEL, so if you want the sound, just keep it. Start with a DP and 2.5" catback exhaust if you want to make some noise. Cheap and easy. And as noted, will run fine on a Stg. 2. Too large of an exhaust may cause you some of the same problems as the catless DP..... etc... boost spike or overboost etc...

 

I don't have a single peice of COBB hardware on my car, and it runs just fine on a Stage 2+ tune. I am not getting the most out of what I have, but that's what a pro tune is for. It's about being safe with what you've got. I will eventually install an EBC and some other goodies to turn up the wick a little, but not until I have that tune in my pocket just waiting for a base map.

 

[KZJonny]

Best place to spend the saved money will be on a bigger rear sway bar + suspension bushings + fresh struts + tires. BTW.

Nothing will get you more out of your new GT than a refreshed suspension system and good tires.

 

Stage 2 is good, yeah. But being able to put it all down and hang with it in a tight corner is more fun than putting your hooptie in the ditch coz you've got shitty all seasons and clappped out struts.

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Ok thank you for the help, Idk anyone irl who owns subarus and actually puts aftermarket parts on. Everyone at my school has riced out Honda's and they are 0 help with figuring out what parts are the best for a stock motor and turbo (They all tell me to get a Honda instead of a "gay subaru" lol). I do need new rims because they are corroded but they have brand new winter tires on them and squeal with hard acceleration so I defiantly need something better for summer. I was planning on coil overs and sway bars anyways, maybe spec b suspension components since there is one at my local scrap yard. I am realizing less will probably be more performance wise. 

What tire size would be best and what size sway bar? I don't want too large wheels that they rub when I add coilovers but I don't want something too small and same for the swaybar, not overly stiff but not as soft and oem. 

[KZJonny]

Okay, so if we collectively came on a little strong, then at least you're willing to listen to experience. This is good dude.

Turbo Subarus aren't really the platform to just start strapping on speed parts and think nothing of it. VERY little you can do to them without at least an AP, or a pro tune if you're gettin serious. Unless your budget is a lot larger than I suspect  it is, then yes, less = more. On the other hand, your "gay subaru" will be able to take on crap roads, poor weather, haul shit, and seat 4-5 people with all their camping gear and food for a weekend. Try that in your Civic DX with a fart can muffler.

Plus, you don't have VTEC: All the lag, none of the boost. yay.

Possibly the smartest thing to do before you do anything else is confirm that the engine is in as good shape as you think it is. Buy, borrow or steal a compression tester and learn how to use it. Get compression numbers for your engine, if they're not within 10% of each other, you are in trouble from the get go. (Or just pay a shop to do it, but if that is your go-to solution for something as easy as a compression check, you're headed for a lot of large mechanics bills....) Assuming you've got decent compression and it's even across the engine then carry on with your plans.

I would suggest starting with the COBB AP and Stg 0 flash, just 'coz it's better than the factory tune, and you'll also then have the AP to monitor parameters in realtime. This is a really good diagnostic tool to help figure out things like your boost problems, etc....

Go raid that Spec for the trailing arms and front control arms. New bushings in them, unless they look *really* good, and away you go. Hell, grab the driveline if they're only charging pic n save pricing and sell it on. 6MTs go for a few grand, while u-pull yards often only ask a few hundo.

 

There is no "best" for the other stuff, read and make up your mind based on the huge amoung of info here. Gonna be doing autox stuff? Spend more on suspension. Daily driver + twisty roads? Get whatever better/aftermarket RSB and braces you can find used and cheap. Anything will be better than stock at this point. Don't forget new endlinks.

I like 17" wheels and stock 215 or 225 wide tires (/45ZR17). Better fuel economy and a little more rubber makes for a slightly better ride, and 17" tires are cheaper than 18"s. They'll also handle a bigger hit before a pothole breaks your expensive new rims. Hell, have your current wheels blasted and refinished. 1/3 the cost of getting some cheap aftermarket things, they're really pretty good overall, and you can put the money towards a set of Continental DWS06s or Michelin Pilot Sports. What's better than adding more power to your car you can't use? Using every shred of every hp you've already got coz your tires are getting it to the ground and holding on for dear life in a corner. You'll be faster than your buddy in his moms Civic with flashy rims and shit tires, for sure.

Of course, now you'll need to replace your tired out engine mounts, transmission support, probably a new upper engine support (dogbone)....

 

The list is endless. If you do nothing else, check or engine health, DP, stage 2 tune and new shocks and tires. Whole new driving experience.

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Thank you so much for the help! I am glad forums exist because I would have waisted a lot of money for no reason. My LGT will be in the shop soon for preventative maintenance because I do not fully trust myself with doing engine work correctly yet since I am only 16 ( I do go to a trade school for auto tech but we mainly cover American cars). I know a shop that I trust and personally know everyone there so I know the work will be done right. 

Big thanks to KZJonny

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

Another piece of advice if not mentioned already-read through the stickies. There’s a ton of great info, really 99% of everything you’d ever need to know to properly take care of your car and properly modify it, if you choose to do so. However, know this: these cars (and turbo Subarus in general) are not for the faint of heart or wallet! Hondas are great because you can just throw prts on them without a 2nd thought…Subies, not so much. It doesn’t take much to blow a ringland, or do something else that will require a new turbo or short block. Flips side is, they also don’t need much out of the box to make them fun, or fast (faster than a stock Honda with bolt-one, anyway).

[NORULZleggy]

On 2/15/2024 at 11:30 AM, LarryTheCableGuy said:

That does make sense, I'm not sure if a cold air intake would give turbo flutter because I haven't seen anything explicitly saying how to get flutter but that would really be the only reason I would want a intake assuming that's all it takes. I mean if I spend less money on engine parts then I can use that money for appearance related upgrades.

If say I instill UEL headers with a downpipe and catback would that all still run on a stg2 or would the UEL headers require their own protune?

You need a Pro tune or you will be heading to short block city. These cars will act crazy if you add parts and no tune.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

Don’t know that headers will gain much. Better off with a downpipe and tune, you’ll see definite gains with that. A decent set of headers are 75% of the cost of a downpipe and tune, if not more.
Downpipe requires a tune. If the car is stock, it already has uel headers.
 

A nice midpipe with mufflers will give you the rumble, no tune needed for that. 

[BoozeRS05]

A panel filter, catback exhaust and Cobb stg1 is a great place to start. I kept my first LGT sedan there (including a catless uppipe) for the first 50k miles I had it, and while I did everything else I wanted.