Spec.B Refresh questions

[TomahawkLabs]

I recently took my 08 Spec.B to the dealer to get the passenger valve cover gasket replaced as I was leaking oil and during their inspection they found a few items that needed attention. I have a leaky steering rack, my timing belt is due (age not miles), spark plugs of an unknown date (maybe factory), rear passenger wheel bearing, and both front axel boots are leaky.

I will be replacing the front axel boots and rear wheel bearing myself as those are easy enough with jackstands in the garage, but the steering rack, timing belt, and spark plugs can be done with someone with more tools and a lift. The steering rack is engine out (so it seems) and I figured "while you're in there) to upgrade some mounts and bushings. 

My car currently is bone stock in the engine (not even a tune). I have swapped the wheels for OZ Racing Hyper HLT 18x8 and swapped to STi springs on JDM Bilsteins. Because I need a new steering rack I'd rather upgrade to the 2015+ STi rack with a Whiteline Front Roll Center Correction Kit to dial in the alignment. I figure while the engine is out we can/should upgrade the trans/motor/pitch stop to the Group N mounts and throw in the Whiteline shifter bushing set to refresh the shifter and remove any slop. Added the STi Solid U-Joint because "while you're in there".

I found a shop willing to do the work for a reasonable price. I can't help but think I may be missing something. I don't have much of a desire for the STi short throw shifter as I like the throw in the stock 6speed for my daily use. This is a daily driven midwest car and will never be a show car, but I am looking to make the driving experience top notch because I do drive it every day. Any suggestions welcome.

STi Solid U-Joint: 34170VA030

STi Group N mounts : SKU D1010-KIT, D1010FE000, D1040FE000
Whiteline kits and bushings - Front Gearbox Linkage Selector, Selector, Crossmember pad, and Front Roll Center Correction Kit
2015+ STi Steering Rack - 34110VA121

 

Edited January 23 by TomahawkLabs

[KZJonny]

Steering rack is definitely not an ‘engine out’ job, just saying.

How long can you live without the car? Steering rack is a morning job on a set of jack stands, or put the ‘paying a shop’ money towards a set of QuickJacks and have them forever. Same kind if goes for the timing belt. Seems intimidating, but it’s really not all that bad. Half a day if you prep for it in advance.

Just a thought. If you have the cash to spend then have it done, for sure. But you could tackle one job at a time in that spacious garage in the photo. Save a pile of money and learn a thing…

[TomahawkLabs]

My spouse already hates my car because it’s “old” and would much prefer I buy something newer with an auto and unfortunately I refuse to compromise on driving anything that doesn’t have a 6spd and a 2020 STi would require significantly more capital than fixing my Spec.B which I would rather drive anyway.
 

I’d feel more comfortable taking it to a shop for things that can end in catastrophic failure. This like anything else is something one can learn, but I like the idea of using the excuse of timing belt, spark plugs, and a new power steering rack to also upgrade other parts of the drivetrain to enhance the driving experience.

For the engine out, i was just going off what I’d seen other do. I do a lot of my own work. I’ve replaced my struts, change my oil, basic fluid upkeep, new pads and rotors. I am planning to replace the boots on my front axels and replace a wheel bear assembly. Nobody wants to rebuild the axels and new OEM ones were like $900. I try do as much as I feel comfortable with, but understand there are limits to my ability.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

51 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

How long can you live without the car? Steering rack is a morning job on a set of jack stands, or put the ‘paying a shop’ money towards a set of QuickJacks and have them forever.

This is a good point. Along time ago I was told I had a power steering rack leak…power steering reservoir never really dropped to levels that worried me, so I just let it be. Point is, I was quoted around $1600 I believe? I’d rather invest in a quick Jack and have that tool. That’s just me. I get having a shop do it too though cause it’s hard for me to hm find time to fix the car. But I’d find a way to make that work…then you could also do the wheel bearings and other stuff and have the shop do the timing belt. That’s just me…it’s Ymmv.

[blackobxt]

None of the things listed are what I would consider difficult jobs or need anything more special than the tools you’re going to be using to do those cv boots or that wheel bearing. I can however understand just not wanting to do the work and paying someone else.

[KZJonny]

14 hours ago, TomahawkLabs said:

My spouse already hates my car because it’s “old” and would much prefer I buy something newer with an auto and unfortunately I refuse to compromise on driving anything that doesn’t have a 6spd and a 2020 STi would require significantly more capital than fixing my Spec.B which I would rather drive anyway.
 

I’d feel more comfortable taking it to a shop for things that can end in catastrophic failure. This like anything else is something one can learn, but I like the idea of using the excuse of timing belt, spark plugs, and a new power steering rack to also upgrade other parts of the drivetrain to enhance the driving experience.

For the engine out, i was just going off what I’d seen other do. I do a lot of my own work. I’ve replaced my struts, change my oil, basic fluid upkeep, new pads and rotors. I am planning to replace the boots on my front axels and replace a wheel bear assembly. Nobody wants to rebuild the axels and new OEM ones were like $900. I try do as much as I feel comfortable with, but understand there are limits to my ability.

I hear you on that a little. Timing belt in particular can be intimidating considering the implications if you get it wrong, but all that said, I've done a few of them now, and honestly, it's not tough. Just spend the hundred dollars on the Company 23 cam tool to keep anything from moving, and I would de-rate the job to 'easy'. Certainly not trying to be pushy, just saying, as noted above, you already have most of the tools to do it. A socket set and a breaker bar is about all it takes. Add a bucket to collect coolant and you're there.

 

All that said, get it done professionally and don't worry knowing the work is under warranty. Just perhaps insist on them using the Aisin Timing Kit, or ask if you can provide your own to make sure that what goes in is not one of the many other available that do not use 100% Japanese made bearings, etc...

 

Either way, enjoy the work and the car. She looks nice, and I'm sure that you'll appreciate the renewed suspension bits and the resulting 'tight' feel of all new rubber bits underneath ya.

[TomahawkLabs]

Thanks for the votes of confidence. I’ll look more into the steering rack myself. I have a jack, stands, ramps, and basic tools. I’ve been bitten by the “this will only take a few hours” only for it to run into problem after problem.
 

My spouse’s first Subaru was a 2016 Outback 2.5. They wanted some extra clearance and ride height to see over the snow drifts in our neighborhood. Sure we can slap some strut spacers in real quick, but boy was I wrong. We eventually got it on but it was a few trips to the auto parts store and some help from some friends that saved the day. 
 

I’m a bit hesitant to touch any systems that require bleeding as I don’t have those tools and a lack of friends without newborns. I’ll have to see what the power steering system looks like to replace the rack. 
 

I appreciate the shout out to see what timing kit they are using. This shop is more than happy to install my aftermarket parts so getting a quality kit shouldn’t be an issue. 
 

I’m really excited to spend some time and money on it. I know once I put in these parts there is no going back. I’m doing my best to stay out of the engine bay. I’ve so far been good about not touching anything until I have to. This car was 100% stock with 89k (just shy of 93k now). Had a fight with a curb last winter and lost. Two wheels wouldn’t balance so it was time to upgrade. Now that we need a new steering rack, may as well go 2015+ STi. Since I’m already getting work done and my shifter is sloppy, may as well replace all those bushings. And if I’m replacing the shifter bushings I bet the bushings on my engine and trans are getting older, may as well upgrade to Group N. The goal is to keep the motor stock until it needs a rebuild. At that point I’ll put some money into go fast parts (DP, Intercooler, fuel) and a proper dyno tune. 

[blackobxt]

Subarus actually have some of the easier racks to replace as far as vehicles go. It won’t need to be bled, just when you have the front wheels off the ground grab a wheel (engine off) and manually turn it left and right over and over and it will pull fluid. Once the level stops dropping start it up and get it aligned.  You don’t need any special tools to do a timing belt, but if you aren’t comfortable with it I’d recommend paying someone to do that. I’ll never forget my first timing belt replacement on my non interference vw that had a belt break. I was 16 and it took me 3 days. Now I have done literally hundreds and can do them in my sleep but I will say they are extremely easy to do on our motors. The spark plugs are also over exaggerated as far as difficulty is concerned. Get yourself a good universal and a set of different sized extensions and it’s really not bad.

[KZJonny]

Since you're spending money, we can help with that.

You mentioned 'totally stock engine', which is great. Stay stock stay happy. BUT, you might want to consider a few things like rad hoses, PCV hoses, removing the inline filters from your turbo and OCV feeds, replacing the 'infamous blue tee' with a barbed tee, etc....

At the age of the car, anything rubber is a potential failure point before too long. This is of course a LOT easier if you go the engine out route for the proposed work. If not, then there are a few less things that are easy to access, so could probably be put off for a while. Also, if the passenger side valve cover gasket was leaking, you gotta figure the drivers side isn't all that far behind. Those are things I would personally always replace as a set, but to each their own. (I mean, the come packaged as 2 x gaskets when I've bought them, so there is that...(

O-ring between the PS pump low pressure (feed) hose and the top of the pump is a common failure as well.... Good time to put a fresh one in would be when the system is empty anyway. Probably all manner of small things, but the above will not add a lot to your work, is easy to do at home, for the most part, and will add some peace of mind.

Things like the rad hoses changes shouldn't cost anything if they are pulling the engine. It's just a matter or tossing the old one and putting a new one in it's place while the engine goes back in...

[Max Capacity]

If you're a Costco member, you can get the quick jacks from them. That's where mine came from a few years back.

[TomahawkLabs]

Well, I'm diving in head first. I ordered a hammer slide to pull the wheel hub assembly and should get it all in time for next weekend. Next step will be the spark plugs and timing belt.

[KZJonny]

One job at a time mate. It's cake, you'll see.

Worst case, reach out here and you'll probably get a speed answer to most any questions.

[TomahawkLabs]

Ordered Boots/Grease kits and the Wheel hub Assembly. Wheel hub goes on first so I can enjoy the ride quality of a Legacy. Then the CV boots. Once those are done I plan to do the timing belt and spark plugs at the same time to avoid having to take things off twice. This forum has been nothing but helpful! I am sure to upload pics and probably start a thread for my Spec B to document what I have done, to hopefully help others down the road.

[Kojak]

After nearly a decade of ownership and forum involvement, I second your stance on saving engine upgrades until catastrophe strikes. ‘Stay stock/happy’ is an undervalued quote here. Seen so many w wild power goals do too much at once and shortly thereafter they’re listing their baby on the FS thread w a blown turbo/shortblock and nothing but contempt for the failed dream realization. It’s a quick arc for some. Do what you can and save the labor costs for that rainy day build. Soak up the wealth of experience shared here, this community is a rarity for its support of adult ownership. Suspension refresh/upgrades are what our cars need first to enjoy the power they have getting to the ground. +1 for jdm billies and pinks setup, have same on my wagon. You’re on the right track. 

[TomahawkLabs]

I love my LGT and plan to keep it as long as I can. If I can do most of the labor and save for that "Rainy Day Build" it only helps the cause. I don't see anything more than an intake, DP, Intercooler, and fuel for the LGT. The rabbit hole goes too deep if I crack into the block. If I crack into the block the "Rainy Day Build" fund will be drained for the LGT. I have already told the spouse that I want to continue wrenching/learning because one day there will be a GC coupe that I will nurse back to health. The 2000 WRC car (but in white with Cherry Blossom Pink accents) is the ultimate dream. There is a person in Russia who holds the original molds from the Prodrive WRC team from that era. Specifically they have the fenders, quarters, and bumper covers for the body. As well as having the air intake box and hood exit venting for the intercooler. Bonkers to know that someone has it and is making production copies for enthusiasts. No idea on cost, but that is the dream.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, TomahawkLabs said:

intake, DP, Intercooler, and fuel for the LGT.

FWIW

Intake: hard no dude. don't do it. stock is good to 350hp, and this has been proven time and agian. It is also a pretty legit cold air intake, and you'll spend a lot of money trying to do better. TLRD: you won't do better until you've already 5-6K on other things under the hood

Intercooler: Sure, yes. Many do. At stock power levels tho, it is a good way to spend money on something you don't really need. Looks nice tho. I did install one, I admit, but it isn't *really* better than a good condition OE Intercooler with the ends tanks either epoxied or "bulletproofed"

Fuel: New pump is good insurance, but not really needed if staying stock. Wiring is a plus, but more of an age/preventative thing. Again, stock engine power levels are totally fine on stock fuelling.

 

Just saying. Spend all the money by all means!! But if stated goal is more or less stock for now, spend the money on suspension/tires/short shifter, bushings, etc.... You'll find that is something you can use and feel all the time.... DP + COBB or OS tune will be fun, and the little extra it unlocks is nice, but the rest is fluff for that amount of added power.

Edited February 2 by KZJonny

[TomahawkLabs]

23 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

FWIW

Intake: hard no dude. don't do it. stock is good to 350hp, and this has been proven time and agian. It is also a pretty legit cold air intake, and you'll spend a lot of money trying to do better. TLRD: you won't do better until you've already 5-6K on other things under the hood

Intercooler: Sure, yes. Many do. At stock power levels tho, it is a good way to spend money on something you don't really need. Looks nice tho. I did install one, I admit, but it isn't *really* better than a good condition OE Intercooler with the ends tanks either epoxied or "bulletproofed"

Fuel: New pump is good insurance, but not really needed if staying stock. Wiring is a plus, but more of an age/preventative thing. Again, stock engine power levels are totally fine on stock fuelling.

 

Just saying. Spend all the money by all means!! But if stated goal is more or less stock for now, spend the money on suspension/tires/short shifter, bushings, etc.... You'll find that is something you can use and feel all the time.... DP + COBB or OS tune will be fun, and the little extra it unlocks is nice, but the rest is fluff for that amount of added power.

These upgrades would only be if there was a need to touch the engine in a meaningful way. The agreement with the spouse is "If I have to touch it, then I can upgrade it". My current wheels only are on there because the curb was stronger than the stock wheels. If I am paying for new wheels, I am getting ones I want vs the stock SpecB wheel. 

When I have to touch the motor I want to be one and done. Living in the midwest sucks most of the time, but easy access to e85 is one of the few upsides. Pump+injectors, etc to run e85 will give me more gains than any other upgrade. My understanding with the IC is the end tanks and would feel safer with a nice welded product vs something reinforced. Good to know on the intake I am fond of the sleeper look and the less amount of giveaways the better. DP + a dyno tune would also be in the cards because I'd rather my car tuned for my fuel, etc than what Cobb thinks would work everywhere. 

So this would put me above stock power and that would be by design only if I had to crack into the block for pistons/rings, whatever. I figure if I am forced to put any new internals in, it would be justification to spend a bit more to get stronger parts and turn up the boost. I have no intention on tuning my engine until it blows and with careful maintenance it may never, which isn't a bad thing.

[KZJonny]

On 2/2/2024 at 4:38 PM, TomahawkLabs said:

These upgrades would only be if there was a need to touch the engine in a meaningful way. The agreement with the spouse is "If I have to touch it, then I can upgrade it". My current wheels only are on there because the curb was stronger than the stock wheels. If I am paying for new wheels, I am getting ones I want vs the stock SpecB wheel. 

When I have to touch the motor I want to be one and done. Living in the midwest sucks most of the time, but easy access to e85 is one of the few upsides. Pump+injectors, etc to run e85 will give me more gains than any other upgrade. My understanding with the IC is the end tanks and would feel safer with a nice welded product vs something reinforced. Good to know on the intake I am fond of the sleeper look and the less amount of giveaways the better. DP + a dyno tune would also be in the cards because I'd rather my car tuned for my fuel, etc than what Cobb thinks would work everywhere. 

So this would put me above stock power and that would be by design only if I had to crack into the block for pistons/rings, whatever. I figure if I am forced to put any new internals in, it would be justification to spend a bit more to get stronger parts and turn up the boost. I have no intention on tuning my engine until it blows and with careful maintenance it may never, which isn't a bad thing.

I misunderstood. I thought you were proposing those changes as part of the 'stay stock stay happy' situation and that a 'build' would happen if things went south. Just doing the simple things that get you onto E85 are a smart choice as well, since it is available to you. If it was available where I live, I would already have all that done, a slightly larger turbo and a tune to make it all work. Er, well, aside from injectors, I DO have all that done, just stuck on pump gas, so no extra fun for me.

 

Good luck with the repairs that are in front of you anyway. I imagine you'll see they are all simple enough when you take them a step at a time, but on the other hand, the FSM is readily available everywhere around here, and the rest of us are ever happy to chip in when asked. Or not asked... depends on the day.

[Bobsyouruncl]

You've probably already done this but. There's an outfit in Florida, I think, that sells axles and has you ship back your old ones as a core to rebuild and resell. It's called Raxles and they make excellent axles in my experience. My car makes north of 360 awhp and I routinely test them out. No vibration or noise and seem as good as stock or better. 100% would buy again. 

Edited February 10 by Bobsyouruncl

[TomahawkLabs]

I got it up on stands and letting some penetrant soak the bolts front and rear. Hopefully it plays well tomorrow and comes out easy. 

[TomahawkLabs]

New hub assembly went on without fuss (once it was orientated correctly lol. Wasn’t to hard. Conveniently had a 32mm socket so the only new tool I needed was a hammer slide hub puller which is a 10/10 tool. It pushed the axel out of the hub assembly and pulled the assembly out in 3-4 good hammer slides. 

Note, I did punch in the wheel axel hub locking material back in, but it was after I took the picture.

Edited February 12 by TomahawkLabs

[KZJonny]

Looks like less noise to me. Hah!

It's too bad the dust sheild plates are so expensive coz' it's obviously the time to do them when you're changing out bearings.

 

On to the next job some other weekend then. Curious to see how far down the DIY rabbit hole you decide to go!

[TomahawkLabs]

Just now, KZJonny said:

On to the next job some other weekend then. Curious to see how far down the DIY rabbit hole you decide to go!

I still need to watch some videos, etc on replacing the axel boots in the front. Already have the boots/grease, but love to fully know what I am doing before I crack any bolts. I really enjoy working on my car, but my shoulder hurts, but I saved $200 so my wife thought I deserved a new hat and hoodie, so this weekend was overall a pretty big win. Now the only noise I hear in my car is road noise and motor noises which is how I like it.

[Bobsyouruncl]

I have replaced boots. The key is to make sure you put all the bearings back in the exact same position they were in when you took them off. Also orient the cup with the bearings in the same slot they were in when taken off. 

Otherwise it's just a messy but simple job.

 Pictures are bad but you can see I have the bearings marked 1, 2, 3 and marked their original mounting position on the shaft and the cup. 

Edited February 12 by Bobsyouruncl

[TomahawkLabs]

On 2/12/2024 at 11:11 AM, Bobsyouruncl said:

I have replaced boots. The key is to make sure you put all the bearings back in the exact same position they were in when you took them off. Also orient the cup with the bearings in the same slot they were in when taken off. 

Otherwise it's just a messy but simple job.

 Pictures are bad but you can see I have the bearings marked 1, 2, 3 and marked their original mounting position on the shaft and the cup. 

Did you learn any tips/tricks on replacing the boots? I plan on doing the Pitch Stop dogbone this weekend if the dealer can get the part in Saturday. Next week is the opening F1 race weekend and I plan to be in the garage plenty and figure I can do an axel or two while watching the race. I know one suggestion was scrib a mark on the axel and the trans to realign in when re-inserting it. I picked up a boot collar(?) crimp as well so I have that to clamp the bands on the boot. Figure I lift it up, push the axel out via the hammer slide tool like I did the rears. Mark the axel and trans for alignment and place on my prepped bench to get dirty. Was there anything else tool wise or process wise you would suggest?

Looks like you have baggies for hardware, which is labeled, shop towels and a sharpie to label the bags and bearings.