KZJonny Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Axle/trans alignment isn’t important, but it can’t hurt to do either. It’s the internal parts you really want to remain in the same place relative to one another for balance and wear pattern, etc… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomahawkLabs Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 5 minutes ago, KZJonny said: Axle/trans alignment isn’t important, but it can’t hurt to do either. It’s the internal parts you really want to remain in the same place relative to one another for balance and wear pattern, etc… I am to understand that I shouldn’t worry about the rotation of the axel as it should fit back into the splines. Just don’t take any gasketing with the axel when I remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Correct. The axle is balanced unto itself. It’s relative position to the transmission is immaterial. Just don’t let the splines cut into the seal on the way out/in and you are golden. It’s also safe to gently use a prybar between the trans and axle to ‘pop’ it out. Slide hammer is overkill and can yank the joints apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomahawkLabs Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 16 minutes ago, KZJonny said: Correct. The axle is balanced unto itself. It’s relative position to the transmission is immaterial. Just don’t let the splines cut into the seal on the way out/in and you are golden. It’s also safe to gently use a prybar between the trans and axle to ‘pop’ it out. Slide hammer is overkill and can yank the joints apart. Good deal. The hammer slide has a pointed shaft attachment for pushing the axel free from the wheel hub. Way better than pushing it in via a punch. Is this the seal that is worth the $8 insurance to have on hand I’ve seen talked about in other threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Ah!! Sorry I misunderstood the use of the hammer. My mistake. And yeah. The transmission axle seal is not a bad thing to have ‘just in case’. Just remember they are directional, and the torque of the seal holder is important. I used a paint pen to mark where the aluminium seal ‘holder’ was turned to, and returned it to the same position. No leaks in 2 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsyouruncl Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 (edited) Those baggies were for engine parts. I was also rebuilding the motor at the same time. It's a pretty simple process. I just pulled the axles cut the old boots off with a knife. Used some side dykes to snip the old bands. Just be careful when you pull the shaft with the bearings out of the cups. Note the location of the bearings on the main shaft and also the location of the bearings in the cup slots. Clean all the old grease off of everything and put it all back the way it came apart. You will need a way to crimp the new bands but it seems like you have that. I used a landscape irrigation sprinkler fitting crimping tool. I did read that it's a gamble whether or not changing the boot will save the axle. If it got too much dirt in it before you repair it, the bearings may fail regardless. You'll know. If they do go contact these guys, https://www.raxles.com/. Edited February 24 by Bobsyouruncl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsyouruncl Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 (edited) 4 hours ago, TomahawkLabs said: Good deal. The hammer slide has a pointed shaft attachment for pushing the axel free from the wheel hub. Way better than pushing it in via a punch. Is this the seal that is worth the $8 insurance to have on hand I’ve seen talked about in other threads? When I did mine I drained the trans and diff fluid and changed both seals cuz why not. They were most likely the stock seals and it's pretty easy to replace them. +1 on shaft orientation in trans not mattering, but also not hurting to preserve. Edited February 24 by Bobsyouruncl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Hi All, Would this top intercooler fit the 07 Legacy GT? I can't understand the difference between the 08-09 and the older 4th gens https://www.bobshop.co.za/top-mount-turbo-intercooler-for-subaru-impreza-wrx-and-forester-xt-improve-performance-and-hors/p/606291897?srsltid=AfmBOoqLjsGoJb_JaD1TV2t_JLdozHrgW7rLGYR657rFqQw3LAC0v-DbRjQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 14 minutes ago, Deltaking said: Hi All, Would this top intercooler fit the 07 Legacy GT? I can't understand the difference between the 08-09 and the older 4th gens https://www.bobshop.co.za/top-mount-turbo-intercooler-for-subaru-impreza-wrx-and-forester-xt-improve-performance-and-hors/p/606291897?srsltid=AfmBOoqLjsGoJb_JaD1TV2t_JLdozHrgW7rLGYR657rFqQw3LAC0v-DbRjQ That should be fine. There is no difference in the intercooler between the pre and post facelift cars. At least there is not in the north american market..... Difference between 08-09 (facelift) and earlier (non-facelift) is that the later cars have a secondary air pump for emissions and no catalytic converter in the up-pipe. Late 4th gens also have top feed injectors, instead of side feed. D25 heads (late) vs. B25 heads (early). VF40 turbo ---> VF46 turbo, which are virtually the same. Not really big differences, and nothing that matters to the intercooler. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 1 minute ago, KZJonny said: That should be fine. There is no difference in the intercooler between the pre and post facelift cars. At least there is not in the north american market..... Difference between 08-09 (facelift) and earlier (non-facelift) is that the later cars have a secondary air pump for emissions and no catalytic converter in the up-pipe. Late 4th gens also have top feed injectors, instead of side feed. D25 heads (late) vs. B25 heads (early). VF40 turbo ---> VF46 turbo, which are virtually the same. Not really big differences, and nothing that matters to the intercooler. mine is a 07 and has the secondary air pump... is it not supposed to or am I misunderstanding you on that? My car is labelled Legacy GT but its actually a Liberty GT according to the EUC and only ADM models were brought into the country. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ah, sorry. No, that's a typo. Early is 05-06, late is 07-09. My mistake. There are some other things about the year that matter, but nothing really critical. Radios and which models were available, and some years not having manual wagons in the US... If you are still able to to tune for the 2ndary air pump delete, then bully for you. I would hang on to all the equipment you remove, in case you either find you need it, or someone wants to buy it when they go to get a new tune and find out that to use a COBB now, you'd better have all your emissions stuff intact and functional... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Those aren't major things here at least. My secondary air pump is blanked off but not at the engine, its blanked off by the pipe which splits to the 2 valves. COBB isn't compatible with ADM unfortunately I had to make sure with the COBB team and they sadly confirmed it... Planning on doing the TGV delete next and just trying to cover the basics which could potentially fail unexpectedly since the car has 250 000 km on the clock. Want to start at the radiator before I get to the fuel pump and the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ah! Yeah, if you're already tuned for the deletes, then all good. So, does that mean you have the 2.0L, if COBB won't talk to it? Or is it the 2.5L that is somehow different enough that you can't. I know Haltech doesn't have an off the shelf option for USDM 2.5L cars either, which is kind of too bad. Tho it is not in the same price range as a COBB at all.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I have a 2.5 spec B. They said its the ECU COBB accessport is only designed for USDM its on their website too... When I get the TGV deleted I will get the car properly tuned. Just have to make sure are potential failure points are covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Those aren't major things here at least. My secondary air pump is blanked off but not at the engine, its blanked off by the pipe which splits to the 2 valves. COBB isn't compatible with ADM unfortunately I had to make sure with the COBB team and they sadly confirmed it... Planning on doing the TGV delete next and just trying to cover the basics which could potentially fail unexpectedly since the car has 250 000 km on the clock. Want to start at the radiator before I get to the fuel pump and the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Also I bought the Intercooler, the difference is that its an extremely tight fit because the thing is much thicker, also it doesn't have the flaps to mount the engine top cover (Not an issue though because I am busy 3D modelling and 3D printing a bracket in its place). One thing I immediately notices which I was not expecting was that my cars acceleration is much better then with the small stock intercooler. I'm not sure if the stock actually restricts the air or doesn't cool the air sufficiently on my 07 spec B but the difference are noticeable. (Maybe the stock was on its way out but The guy I bought it from said he replaced it 2 years ago "Maybe secondhand, don't really know"). One thing I do know is I was not expecting the car to drive differently. The fusses of the stock map don't seem to be a problem anymore... super strange... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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