computersoc Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 (edited) The dealer failed my car today because they claimed this is a "suspension attachment point" where the hole is. It seems the lower control arm mounts at a different point and is not attached to the hole, therefore it shouldn't have failed NYS inspection? Any suggestions on getting it fixed? Dealer of course wanted $2500 to replace the whole piece and upper/lower control arms. Edited April 11, 2023 by computersoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Front suspension? The front subframe on the 5th gen is a removable part you may get for a reasonable price at a salvage yard? In any case no, that hole is not a suspension attachement point lol! Unless they mean that hole is in the subframe that the front suspension attaches to, which is a stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 (edited) Yes, front. The foreman kept changing his story but settled on what you said in your last sentence. Edited April 12, 2023 by computersoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Its a judgment call. In the end if the car passes, is in an accident and evaluated by an insurance company the dealership can be liable. If you can see that, there is more you cant see. Time to replace the subframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 (edited) My NYS inspection is due by the end of the month and my front subframe looks like swiss cheese. Both control arm bushings are completely ripped away from the center bushing. Trying to decide if I want do it myself in the driveway or pay someone. Both options suck. Haven't looked at the rear subframe and don't really want to. Edited April 12, 2023 by Plastixx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted April 13, 2023 Share Posted April 13, 2023 My steering rack bushings needed replacement and the subframe needed to come down to replace them. Had it done at a friend's shop. Started after lunch and it was down by the end of the day. But I imagine transfering the suspension and other parts to the new subframe is significant additional work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted April 13, 2023 Share Posted April 13, 2023 There is a video series on an Outback subframe replacement on YouTube: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted April 14, 2023 Share Posted April 14, 2023 It seems relatively straight forward. The biggest issue I see is supporting the motor. I would have separated the exhaust not taken it down as one unwieldy piece, Subaru uses a donut gasket between the front and catback exhaust portions which usually comes apart at the age of these cars. I do know why they just don't remove the cotter pins, I usually only use the impact to shear it as my last resort not my 1st course of action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 15, 2023 Share Posted April 15, 2023 Engine support bar, attach it to the upper two bell housing bolts. The rusty hex head in that photo is the bolt for the rear mount of the control arm, which is likely why they failed you as that rusty hole is very close. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 A few years ago this point failed on my front subframe, drivers side. Luckily it happened in my driveway otherwise I would have had a very bad day. I had a mechanic replace the subframe, control arms, and a bunch of other stuff. They had a hard time with it, mainly because of the rusty bolts and other fasteners. If there is as much rust under there as mine had, either having a mechanic do it or getting access to a lift is a good idea, just for ease of access. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted April 18, 2023 Share Posted April 18, 2023 (edited) Another thing I remember with my subframe pull down, I recommend to lock the steering wheel securely and mark the position of the steering shaft to steering rack coupling before separating shaft and rack. Easy to be off a bit and not have a centered steering wheel after. Edited April 18, 2023 by Scubaboo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 Came across a deal on Amazon today for the YESWELDER 135A. I've been wanting to buy this welder for awhile now to replace my crappy, heavy HF flux core welder and couldn't pass it up at $130 ($160 - $30 coupon). https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-FLUX-135-Gasless-Inverter-Welding/dp/B08CBBHFX5 I need to inspect my subframe a little better, but I think I can just do a patch job on it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 My dad’s ‘13 Outback failed inspection for front subframe rust. He had it replaced by an independent shop for $1100 I think, but not sure if used/new from dealer. I think a new one is $550 from Subaru. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 Been wanting to buy a welder for some time that might work to make two wire coat hangers stick together. Just WOW. A decent mig welder, not the best starts at around $2k. Patch a rusted out subframe that you say "looks like Swiss cheese" with a $130 welder? Like living dangerously do we? Unfortunately you pose a risk to the general public as well. Let me risk my life and countless others to save a few dollars. Good choices. Driving is a privilege, not a right. Its crap like this that justifies losing your license. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, m sprank said: Been wanting to buy a welder for some time that might work to make two wire coat hangers stick together. Just WOW. A decent mig welder, not the best starts at around $2k. Patch a rusted out subframe that you say "looks like Swiss cheese" with a $130 welder? Like living dangerously do we? Unfortunately you pose a risk to the general public as well. Let me risk my life and countless others to save a few dollars. Good choices. Driving is a privilege, not a right. Its crap like this that justifies losing your license. I'll be sure to take your disapproval into consideration when I go ahead and do it anyway. If my welded cheese passes NYS inspection, then take it up with the shop that passes it if it keeps you up at night. Edited April 23, 2023 by Plastixx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 If the front sub frame is rotted, it is likely going to be a losing battle trying to weld it up. I had a truck with a rotted frame, when I really started assessing the damage, it went a lot further than the initial hole. It was 3' section that was bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 Well, this isn't my first rodeo with welding or subframe repair. I'm fully capable of assessing its structural integrity. I'm not going to drive around with something I feel is unsafe. Any concern posting directed at me is just wasted effort, but if someone wants to use it as an outlet for other frustrations in their life, have at it. Doesn't phase me a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 24, 2023 Share Posted April 24, 2023 You did link a 110V welder that might be good enough for exhaust work on a good day, but reading through the 1 and 2 star reviews, it may not even weld at all. $100 for a welder that may not work, hours of labor laying on your back in your driveway welding rusted shit. And after all that time spent doing that it may not even be worth it and you're still shelling out $600 for a new subframe. weld rusted subframe, high risk and ONLY high reward if it takes, very low reward if not buy new subframe, low risk high reward guaranteed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 24, 2023 Share Posted April 24, 2023 Amazon reviews. Lol. Lmao even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 24, 2023 Share Posted April 24, 2023 Without ever seeing or using the linked welder I would suspect that it would struggle to make a puddle of bird shit on 1/4" plate. But wtf do I know about welding anything??? I am not "Dime Stack Dave". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 It will... My previous welder was a HF 90A Flux that I modded for DC output with a 150A rectifier, capacitor bank, and hand wound choke. That was years ago before these inexpensive IGBT welders hit the market. I used that machine a lot, but it was limited by only having two power settings and wasn't good for thinner steel. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 ^A writeup if you do end up repairing your subframe would be cool. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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