computersoc

Yes, front. The foreman kept changing his story but settled on what you said in your last sentence.

The dealer failed my car today because they claimed this is a "suspension attachment point" where the hole is. It seems the lower control arm mounts at a different point and is not attached to the hole, therefore it shouldn't have failed NYS inspection? Any suggestions on getting it fixed? Dealer of course wanted $2500 to replace the whole piece and upper/lower control arms.

So at the stop light I hit the gas and heard it fall off right there and immediately pulled into a gas station at the intersection. The section came off first that is on my passenger side floor in the picture. I used a knife to cut the rubber holder from the muffler itself that is pictured in my rear driver side seat. The picture that shows a broken mount is my biggest concern, because I don't know how that mount would get repaired, or even what it was holding onto?

Looks like my catback fell off today at a stop light. I threw it in my car and went home. Is it still usable to put back on, or does it need brackets? Is it worth any scrap metal value if I can't put it back on? Since I have a single muffler exhaust since it's a 2.5i Premium, can a dual muffler setup be put on, or would the sizes not be right for the hookup near the cat? If not, should I just get the standard $200 cat back from RockAuto? I posted a screen shot.

It's mostly highway miles. The problem before was typically rust on the dust shield.

The pads only have 27k miles on them.

I believe my dust shield on the passenger side front is making noise and scraping something. Only happens at less than 10 mph and when braking at those speeds. Is there something I can do without taking the wheel off? Where is the dust shield? It's a constant problem every 2 or 3 years and does this.

Update, the CEL went off after replacing the air filter that wasn't secured in the housing properly. I'll still do an oil change but remember three years ago I used a K&N style air filter and changed that to a normal one when I did the oil and had this same issue. It could just be that this car doesn't like too much airlfow?

I popped the hood and noticed 1 of 2 of the engine air filter clips were popped off and the engine air filter was a little off. It looked a little dirtier than usual for only 10k miles on it. My maintenance schedule is 20k for them. I replaced it and tightened the clips. I checked the oil and it was at the correct level. I never burn or lose oil. I will replace the oil tomorrow or this weekend and see if that gets rid of the CEL.

Three years ago I was randomly getting P0028 CEL with the other associated lights (steady lit traction control, blinking cruise control, and steady lit brake light). Happened over a span of a couple months where it would go on and then randomly go away, then come back again. I changed my oil and it went away. I'm 6600 miles on my Royal Purple oil right now. I typically do 7500 to 10k mile changes. Today I started getting P0028 again with the same lights. Autozone also has on my printout C0057 and C0042. Their recommendation is "replace variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid" based on the printout. I'm around 133k miles. Your thoughts?

Another update, I'd say it's 80 percent better. Stop and go driving (45-0mph) has no issues. I still feel a slight but definitely less than before pedal vibration when braking if I'm going from highway speeds to a slower stop like when getting off an exit (65-0mph).

Just did five sets of the 60mph to 20mph x3, then drive for 10 minutes. During set 4, I finally felt like I had some normal stopping power. No more pedal vibration. This solved my problem, thanks guys! Silly dealership. One other note, we have unlimited car washes in my area (all you can wash for $20 or so per month). Does getting a car wash 4 or 5 times a week hurt the brakes or rotors if they're hot and I've been driving a lot before getting the wash? Also, are the brake dust shields replaceable? They've caused some minor noise over the years.

Not sure the cost difference between OEM and Amazon stuff. Figured OEM would still be pricier. I will try the driving and braking tonight or tomorrow night and report back.

I'll bring it to my normal shop to try that. I was told by the dealer when I got the state inspection that it was rust and warping causing it, but they'll tell me anything to try and get a sale. Still passed inspection, but the shaking pedal when braking is annoying and there's a tiny bit of scraping noise.

I bought that and also bought an OEM thermostat. Indy charged me $500 labor. I'm happy. Dealer wanted $1200 and that didn't include the water pump or thermostat. I'm at 130k and the timing belt looked in good shape still when the shop showed me the old one, but I wasn't taking a gamble any longer.

Is there any brand of rotor that I can get more than 2 years out of? I've tried more expensive ones on Amazon that are twice the price of the cheap ones and I get the same life no matter what. It seems to be the fronts that are always the problem. I don't put the car under any unusual braking or load. Rust seems to be getting my current ones which are very warped when I hit the brakes. OEM lasted the longest at probably 4 years, then I've since changed out my front rotors twice (three times total). Current pad life is fine but the rotors are shot. Also how many mm are my fronts? I see some 292 and 293 mm on Amazon and not sure the difference.

Thanks, I'll stick with OEM and get two of those. Is that all I need or do I need grease or anything else? I remember on my truck I needed grease and inner and outer bearings, but that looked different than these.

What part numbers would you recommend for the hub assemblies and bearings, etc? I just need fronts.

131k miles. I've been getting some noise coming from a few places on the car so I had the dealer do a check. They said I need new wheel bearings and my carrier bearing is loose. They said these aren't serviceable. I know I needed my wheel bearings done because of the noise. My questions: 1. Can the wheel bearings be taken out and greased and repacked? Or should they just be replaced? Wheels are not loose and have no play, the bearings just make noise. 2. Can the u joint be replaced for the loose carrier bearing? The dealer said I need the whole driveshaft piece, which is like $500 plus an hour labor. If I can replace just the u joint, what part number? 3. If I need the whole driveshaft piece replaced, do I need an alignment? 4. They told me nothing is pressing right now and my vehicle still passes inspection. I always thought if a carrier bearing is loose, then that needs to be fixed right away. That leads me to believe there's probably just a little play in it and it's not in need of replacement just yet. Thoughts?

Are the KYB better than OEM or same? Also, will I need an alignment after the struts are replaced?

My Legacy 2.5i Premium has 130k miles on it and seems to be a little harsher over bumps these days, even with soft Michelin tires. Not terrible but not Mercedes smooth like when it was new (ha). What are your recommendations (and part numbers) for shocks/struts that would give me the softest ride over bumps or rough road? Or should I just stick with OEM? Are they easy to replace? I put some Bilsteins on my Ford Ranger and they really softened it up over bumps. Definitely were worth the added cost. Rented a Jeep Gladiator the other day and it was smoother over rough road than my Subaru for being a pickup truck. Just seems the Subaru used to be like that when new so I assume it just needs new shocks.

I'll try that but I can't open the door at all right now.

This is the first time it's been happening lately. It's been 10-20 degrees. If I open the door, it won't shut. The door just bounces. If I wiggle the piece of white plastic that it's hitting on, the door will close. This happened a few times. Now the door won't open at all. The black lock that can be flipped inside seems stuck. Even if I try to force it, I can't open the door. Suggestions?

Cool, thanks!

I bought a new ambient air temperature sensor (part number 73730AG00A) but the harness it snaps into is damaged on my car. I want to grab one from the junk yard and then splice it in. What models and year ranges use the same harness as my 2012 Legacy? Finding a 2010 to 2012 Legacy is hard. I assume Outback of simular years? What about other Subaru models and year range?