New to Subaru, new to forum 2009 OBXT

[MadamImAdam]

Hello 3rd gen Subaru outback members! Just picked up this 2009 OBXT with a bunch of mods on it, turbo, brakes suspension. Was a bit of an impulse buy but it is a manual wagon. And it's a turbo. Was looking for A4 Audis, 3 series rwb bmws, then saw this one and decided to go for it. The previous owner was very knowledgeable about the well thought out modifications, which hopefully translates into this being a reliable car for me!

 

Edited November 19, 2022 by MadamImAdam

[MadamImAdam]

Just added new continental dsw06+ changed all fluids, filters, etc. So far, my first impressions, The suspension mods make the car feel somewhat bouncy - also the steering input seems very vague on initial turn in. Granted I'm coming from Mazda, so my expectations my be out of line. 

 

[Febreze Mee]

Hey! Welcome to the forums! This site and the SubaruOutback.org site may help you along with your ownership of this wonderful machine. Congratulations on your purchase!

The suspension experience is totally possible pending modifications made, mileage, and a combination of other factors. Let's start by see what your suspension modifications consist of, and/or maintenance done to the rest of the chassis suspension components.

Additionally, to the steering comment, I'm assuming your rack/PS pump/PS lines aren't leaking. Our cars (Outbacks only) come with body spacers from the factory. A quick search will provide more details about the spacers, and removal of them if desired. Because of these spacers, the Outback steering shaft u-joint has a little longer of a single-joint connection and a bit bigger of a steering damper in this joint. This damper, by design, soaks up a little more vibrations from the steering system, and subsequently adds a little more play between the rack and steering shaft. The quickest, easiest, and cheapest solution is through an aftermarket steering damper lockdown kit (Perrin makes one). This is a wonderful modification for a factory OB rack. 
 

For a more connected-to-the-road steering feel, and more responsive steering, I would recommend considering a few different solutions that range in costs from lowest to highest:

- PS pump o-ring: if your fluid is aerating, pump is whining, or your experience any issues related to an "open" system, but all joints/connection look dry —try replacing the o-ring atop your PS pump for a couple cents. Fluid/air leaks need to be addressed so that you may have an actual baseline before doing anything else)

- steering damper lockdown kit: this removes a lot of the initial slop/dead space you feel on turn in.

replacement of inner tie rods: bad inner can cause excessive amount of lateral movement in your steering. This play allows for that much more in lack of steering response. Often overlooked, and easy as changing brake pads, you'll need to rent a special tool from any auto parts store and get an alignment afterwards installation  

- tires with less of an aspect ratio (i.e. not tall side walls): this affects steering response encouraging a less floaty feeling, as you minimize the distance between the weight and the contact patch. Ride quality will also be affected.

- proper removal of OB body spacers: lowering the cars CG. Taking unnecessary points of contact out from the subframes/suspension of the car

- 2015+ STi steering rack: this reduce the amount of input required at the steering wheel due to the drastic difference in steering rack gear ratios between the newer STi and the 3rd gen OB. 

removal of body spacers, STi rack, and STi solid steering joint

[MadamImAdam]

Thanks for the welcome! I will need to spend time here learning from everyone's experiences.  Below is a list of work done to the suspension. Let me know what you think of these mods.

Suspension:

• Bilstein B6/HDs dampers for the Legacy Spec-B, FatCatMotorsports.com custom valving
• LGT Spec-B top mounts
• JDM LGT STi Spec-B Wagon pink springs (Front: 4k, Rear: 6k)
• 1" rear spacer w/ extended bolts
• LGT upper control arms in the rear (20250AE031 (right), 20250AE041 (left))
• LGT brackets for the rear trailing arm (20540AE080 (right), 20540AE090 (left))
• Whiteline Rear Camber Bushing [KCA399]
• Whiteline roll-center kit [KCA313]
• Whiteline front camber bolts
• Whiteline swaybars front and rear (front: BSF30Z 22mm adjustable, rear: BSR39 20mm adjustable)
• AVO rear swaybar mount brace 
• STi front-LCA lower rear bushing
• Fenders were rolled to accommodate 255/45/18 tires on 18x8+45 wheels (+12 front spacers), flares were trimmed to fit over the rolled fenders
• 245/50ZR17 Continental ContiExtremeContact DWS06 Plus

[Febreze Mee]

Looks like a very healthy list of suspension modifications! All of which leaves lots of room to adjust alignment ensuring the car performs how you want it too. This is just speculation as I haven't done any spring rate calculation, but those rates seem a little on the softer side for our cars. This in combination with your tire dimensions are what I suspect to be causing a bulk of the bouncy feeling your experiencing.

I like your steering wheel a lot btw.

[kzr750r1]

Nice car!

[s2baru]

Fwiw your suspension setup is nearly identical to mine however I'm on coilovers. 

One thing that may help you with the steering "feel" is a lockdown dampener that was mentioned above. Under 65$ bucks and worth to. Also how about your alignment in general? Depending on your driving style maybe you have to ad a little more camber like around -2 and then the larger sway bar really does help I believe. Especially more noticable at speed.

I wouldn't really ad toe up front but maybe a little in the rear. Normally I've always ran 0 toe on every Subaru though

[MadamImAdam]

thanks for the feedback, I think I will start by trying the Perrin dampener next.

 

I just ditched the high profile 245/50/17 tires for a new set of 225/45/17s. These improve turn in quite a but, but the speedometer error is about 7% low and the wheel gap is now huge. Is there any other concerns with such a large reduction in diameter from the stock OEM size tires, 225/55/17?

The car is on 17x7+55 2008 OEM WRX wheels with 12 mm hub centric front spacers.

Apparently, the fenders were rolled to accommodate 255/45/18 tires on 18x8+45 wheels (+12 front spacers) with minor rubbing, flares were trimmed to fit over the rolled fenders.

I was thinking of perhaps upsizing the wheels to 18" to better match the OEM overall diameter, sized something similar to what is shown in this tire size comparison. That way I could put winter tires on these 17s.

Which stock or stock looking wheels and offset would work with the suspension mods on this car? Keeping 5x100.

Edited February 4, 2023 by MadamImAdam
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[kzr750r1]

I have not made the jump. However the +45 18" may work with 245/45/18. But I'm not lowered.

It's as close as you can ask for a compromise to not mettle with the speedometer/OD correction.