Artizan Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 **** me right in the arse. Even the chisel isn’t getting them. There’s Barry even anything left of one, yet it’s still on! Help please! Open to any ideas that don’t involve me cutting off the whole stud and then having to remove the remains Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohno06gt Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 Wow those things are hurting. I would try an extractor socket and heat. Next time soak them with a penetrating oil like pb blaster or kroil for a few days before attempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratmilk Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 I second the extractor socket, everyone should keep a set of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 Anything that gets heat cycled to hell like this needs a thorough soak in PB BLaster before attempting to get in the ring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 https://www.mactools.com/products/svmdpex7rbrt When you just need the best extractor tool! But a HF one should be good enough as well. --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 I had a ton of problems with that bolt when removing my downpipe years ago. Because of the tight spacing I could not get an extractor on the nut tight enough. What ultimately worked for me (not extractor, chisel, propane torch, induction heat) was using an oscillating multitool with a carbide blade. The stud ended up coming out with the nut. The stud is removable, FYI, and I use copper anti-size when putting on the new ones for future serviceability. This is what mine looked like when I finally got it off. It was one of the sweetest feelings I ever experienced. I hope this helps. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artizan Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 I had a ton of problems with that bolt when removing my downpipe years ago. Because of the tight spacing I could not get an extractor on the nut tight enough. What ultimately worked for me (not extractor, chisel, propane torch, induction heat) was using an oscillating multitool with a carbide blade. The stud ended up coming out with the nut. The stud is removable, FYI, and I use copper anti-size when putting on the new ones for future serviceability. This is what mine looked like when I finally got it off. It was one of the sweetest feelings I ever experienced. I hope this helps. I dremelled the shit out of mine until a portion of it was completely gone, then it moved from chisel hits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted December 7, 2021 Share Posted December 7, 2021 If the nut is that tight chances are the stud is buggered anyway, I would heat the flange on the other end cherry red and pull the stud with nut. Extractor socket of good vice grips should get it done. If you have a welder, weld a new nut on and use your standard socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 7, 2021 Share Posted December 7, 2021 Sorry, just saw this thread. As I'm reading it, I'm thinking dremel tool. I have use carbid bits to cut nuts off. Check out Home Depot in the drill bit section for "rotary files" they fit in a common drill. https://www.google.com/search?q=rotary+files&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=rotary+files&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i512l8j0i457i512.3507j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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