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Could you help me understand one point? Once I got the turbo back from them it didn’t align perfectly with the Intercooler, which is why I decided to turn it a bit. When I turn it back, obviously it will go back out of alignment. One of the tells was that the upper coolant hose was just slightly kinked, but isn’t now after turning. These two situations don’t add up basically. Right now the coolant line is good and not linked at all, intercooler fits but doesn’t align with the bracket to the right of the intercooler. Once I turn the turbo back the other way, Intercooler will probably fit perfectly, but the coolant hose will kink just slightly. Is the hose just too long? OEM brand new hose.

That’s absolutely infuriating. This was a highly reputable shop doing the rebuild. I hope I didn’t cause a lot of damage by doing this. Could this potentially damage the CHRA or just the seal? I rotate it maybe .5 cm. Once I get the turbo, how do I know which alignment is correct? I don’t have another turbo to compare with.

Mine 100% rotated. Maybe I’m talking about the wrong thing? There were 6 or 8 torx bolts, once I loosened those I could rotate the housing pretty much freely. I tried that when it was outside the car before.

My turbo after the rebuild wasn’t clocked right and I made the Intercooler fit, but it no longer matches with the bracket on the right. Not the end of the world, but drives me nuts. is it possible to clock it in the car? I remember at least one of the torx screws was difficult to access if possible at all.

Because I asked about piano black at first, rather than any black Does that clarify it?

Is there’s a black version for LHD cars?

They only came for RHD originally?

I mean the macintosh system yeah with all the silver knobs and all that. I’m LHD

I meant the centre console with radio controls. I never see the piano black one anywhere.

There definitely was one. mine also blew a line exactly at that block where they put wax years ago. Happened to me 2 years ago and dealer covered the whole thing under warranty. Not sure if I just got lucky.

Good idea I will check that next

Where did you get the black centre console?

5MT Clutch was just done 700km ago. New fork, spring, pivot ball, absolutely everything in there is new. Same rattle was present before clutch replacement.

Happens between 2-3,000 RPM. Only when on the accelerator pedal roughly 2%, just barely giving it gas. Never changes in speed or frequency. Always the same rattle. Happens in any gear. Appears to happen only under load, but I can’t exactly verify it because when I’m neutral, to get it to those RPMs I have to be heavier on the pedal. Definitely not heat shields, those have been ruled out. Exhaust system has been smoke tested and has all new gaskets. Even then, I don’t see how exhaust would always be same frequency and speed. It does SOUND like an exhaust leak. appears to be coming from middle of the car somewhere. I do know there’s a small evaporator leak somewhere. Could that possibly be it? mom going absolutely insane trying to find this rattle. Dealer couldn’t figure it out as well.

The front is very close but the rear definitely different. The rear of the blue one was 3 separate pieces. Where could I get these?

Unfortunately not. The car was closed and I was too excited. Should've taken like 100 pics.

First of all, it is very upsetting how much nicer the interior is compared to my USDM lol Ans second, where do I get these fender flares?! WHERE

Oh also, exhaust manifold has no heat shield, uppipe heat shield was welded, turbo heat shield is solid. So it’s definitely not heat shield, but also doesn’t exactly sound like it.

Happens in every gear, between 2,000-2,700 RPM, only when I am moving and on the throttle at around 15-20%. Does not happen if I rev it while standing still. Exhaust was just checked and fully sealed by a muffler shop. Turbo was just rebuilt. Neither made any difference. I also had an exact same model car before, and it wasn’t doing this. ‘08 Legacy GT 5 speed manual. It’s driving me insane and I can’t even think of what can possibly cause a rattle in these specific circumstances. Engine would rattling standing still too, right?

The heads themselves are not crazy expensive. It's all the additional labour that adds up to thousands it seems.

Apparently, the stud was overtightened enough to cause a crack, and I guess then hot exhaust did the rest. I really don't know what to do now, as this repair will cost like 4-5k CAD it seems. And I just dumped a couple of grand into it doing various reliability mods...

The broken-off chunk was put back in place, but obviously that's not a solution

Trying to find laser cut mats for our cars, but seems like pretty much nobody else makes it?

You gotta lift up the engine a little. Remove intercooler. Loosen up the pitch mount to let it move. Underneath the car, remove both engine mount nuts. Use a 2x4 and lift by the transmission to give you clearance. It's still tight, but at least possible this way.