Ratmilk

I have mine if you need one.

PM sent, to boxkita

Anyone local to WA got an engine cover for sale?

You're correct, needs to be almost 0. Your circuit has a total resistance of 16 ohms. Try setting on lead on your chosen ground point and the other lead on various pieces of unpainted metal. Try one of the brass screws holding the fuse box. Even though the fuse box is plastic the screw is still a good ground. EDIT: Only use this kind of ground for low voltage applications.

You can tap into the radio harness, I tapped into the fuse box because I didn't feel like removing the radio stereo trim. Here is the pinout for the radio harness http://ae64.com/Legacy-pinout.htm Your wires will go to the following Orange (illum+) : 1 Red (12v constant) : 10 Black (Ground) : 11 White (12v with ign on) : 14 Ground can tap into most screws that go into metal. Use a multimeter and set to ohm. Touch a piece of bare metal and the screw you want to use. Closer to 0 is better.

Reviving this old thread, in LGT Dave's link doesn't work in 2022 Anyone have a source for how to remove the cubby pod?

If you have the spare parts from your last engine, could you hold on to the exhaust manifold heat shields for me?

I'm having trouble finding a thread or link to where I can contact Daniel. I need some of these too

Keep us updated on the exhaust. I'm in the same boat with mine, currently running catless up pipe and high flow 3" catted down pipe. It's a daily so I'd like it to be quiet but are there any low end gains I'm missing out on?

I don't like wrapping the headers since they tend to be a fire hazard when exposed to oil or power steering fluid. You're better off looking for a new set of heat shields off a junkyard car. I would ceramic coat the up pipe, downpipe can be wrapped just make sure to seal with high temp silicone spray like DEI #10301

Bump, kind honest seller. Wish I had the space for this, the price is a steal.

PM'd, HMU if that downpipe is up for sale again

I always thought the spot on the back of the block next to the turbo oil feed was the best location for temp and the front of the block underneath the alternator was best for oil pressure. Open to corrections, I am often wrong.

PM'd about downpipe, I'm able to pick up locally

Looks awesome!

I second the extractor socket, everyone should keep a set of those.

+1 to 1320 products, they're a bit cheaper than nvidia but the fitment and quality of materials is on par

I've never done one on my Legacy 5mt but if it's anything like the 02-03 WRX transmission that ring has to come off to replace the seal. As long as you mark where the ring sits and count how many turns it takes to remove then you will get the correct preload. Also be careful when reinstalling the axle, you can cause damage to the seal this way.

Correction, it's actually the "AUTO and MODE" buttons. And it's still holding up today, no issues since.

On the Cobb site? I need one soon.

Got mine installed! Climate controls didn't come on this morning, kinda freaked me out. After I parked and shut off the car I waited a few seconds then turned the key back to the ON position. Still dead. Went in to the office, googled the problem, went back out and put the key into the ACC position, waited two seconds, held the AUTO and MODE buttons, then put the key into the ON position. Immediately started working. To clarify, I don't believe this was any fault of the i88 adapter. It's a fantastic piece!

I'm on the West side of the cascades but if you're planning a drive can I bring my bugeye?

Just to be sure, I'm referring to the nuts welded on to (7) in the diagram. [ATTACH]294161[/ATTACH]

I know the FSM asked for 51 ft. lbs on my bugeye, that was way too much so I ended up getting longer bolts and jb welding a nut on the other side.. I think 30 should be tight enough.

Finished installing my JDM double din kit. Feels good to have climate controls back! Still need to dremel out some room for the hazard switch and align the shifter trim.