creep_nu Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 eesh that's scummy AF and whole bunch of things you'd have to check if the crank isn't chewed up, but you might be able to get it polished and use a set of oversize bearings rather than replacing. but for that to make sense it'd have to cost less than a new crank since you're doing the same labor either way. and that all only makes sense if the cylinder isn't chewed up...investigation time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 Keen to see where you go from here, I also have a block sitting with a shot bearing. What can be done if the crank is not chewed up? I looked up rebuilding a motor, reading the service manual and watching videos on online. Last night, I was already to do attempt that repair. I was thinking new bearings, new pistons rings, new rods and see if I could get away with a honing the block if everything measured properly. Early this morning, I started thinking about the bearing material in the motor. I would have to replace the oil pump and oil cooler. I also don't trust putting that turbo back in the car without having it rebuilt. This morning, I found a used 5th Gen GT motor complete with the turbo, I am going to pick it up this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 yeah that's the much easier way to go, and now you've got a fresh set of heads for the next time you pick up another GT to restore! i always see a bunch of imported engines on ebay for $2500ish though i don't know how different the JDM engines are to the north american ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 i always see a bunch of imported engines on ebay for $2500ish though i don't know how different the JDM engines are to the north american ones I saw a picture of the pistons on a JDM 5th Gen GT and they were different than what the US version have. (JDM are definitely a higher CR) They don't have the serpentine belt setup either, but I would assume that is easy to swap (crank pully and accessories). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 good information..still have to do a lot of rebuilding to get it to work on our chassis then. not ideal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Ouch. Hope that other motor you are getting doesnt give you problems. Are you going to check it before getting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphex28 Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I'm decently local to you, and I wouldn't mind letting the short block I pulled when my #4 exhaust valve melted go for like super cheap). Like 200 or trade for parts. I did it due to the ej255 reputation for blowing ring lands. It has like 75k made good compression before melting that valve and it actually still ran on 3 cyls, well as good as it could. Oil came out clean but either way, it could be a better platform for a rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 I'm decently local to you, and I wouldn't mind letting the short block I pulled when my #4 exhaust valve melted go for like super cheap). Like 200 or trade for parts. I did it due to the ej255 reputation for blowing ring lands. It has like 75k made good compression before melting that valve and it actually still ran on 3 cyls, well as good as it could. Oil came out clean but either way, it could be a better platform for a rebuild I sent you a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 I spent my September fixing my Outback's suspension and turn out my brakes were replaced with cheap parts a few years ago, so they also needed to replaced as well. So i am back on the Legacy GT. I gave up trying to find a used driver's side mirror assembly and bought a new one off ebay. (every one that was in good condition, the seller wanted more for a used part than a new one) I installed the mirror with relative ease. I just had to pry up on the mirror and used multiple screw drivers to unlock the tabs on the caps. I pulled apart the short block, that I bought from Aphex28. I started last week but I didn't have 3/8 drive 12 point 12mm socket to get the 4 block bolts that are in coolant passages. (My 12 point 1/2 drive sockets didn't fit). Everything looked good internally, so I am going to rebuild that. I clean it up, power washed, dried, and oiled the block. I put the pistons in parts cleaner and bagged an oil the crank. Lot of parts all over the place. I am going to place what hopefully is my last parts order from Subaru for this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Not much that has changed since my last update. I order parts after my last post to rebuild the motor, the my parts didn't come in until January, (oil cooler and bearings were the parts backordered). Between cold weather, COVID, family vacation, my honeymoon and busy work schedule, my progress has slowed to a crawl. I quite frankly should have done some work in April but I lost some motivation. I had a warm weekend in February so I assembled the bearings, crank, rods and sealed the block. This past weekend, I had some motivation. I installed the piston, rings into the block. I didn't have as much problem as I would have expected, installing the wrist pins and clips into the pistons through the block holes and windows. Now that the short block is together, I can start reassembling the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 12, 2022 Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 I finished assembling the long block this weekend. I just have a few bolts and oil level sensor that I am waiting from the dealer. Next step is to put the engine back into the Legacy and then finish connecting the rest of parts up. I wish the engine wasn't so dark in the picture. (The engine is actualy pretty clean). It feels pretty good to not have so many parts all over the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted June 18, 2022 Share Posted June 18, 2022 Almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 The dealer called and said the oil level sensor is back ordered until late August For old oil level sensor, I soldered a new ground to the wiring to fix it (this is what is broken). I used silicon to seal the wiring and keep the elements off wiring. Hopefully this fix works, if I not I can looking into using a resistor to bypass it as I don't went to waiting 2 months for that sensor. This weekend I rolled the Legacy into my garage and the motor is in the engine bay. The clutch slave cylinder is leaking fluid, so I need to order a new one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 jeez you can't catch a break on this one...hopefully the sensor fix works and you can at least get the car on the road while waiting for parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 28, 2022 Author Share Posted June 28, 2022 I align the motor up on Saturday and installed the short block. I went to torque the bellhousing bolts and one of them stripped out. The motor has to come back out and I will have to helicoil the block for the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphex28 Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 dang! Tough break. But I'm happy the shortblock I sold you looked like it was in decent condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 (edited) Phew, big job! My number 4 just came up with no compression (2010 GT). Was going to put in a JDM, but got scared off by all the take about AVCS not matching etc. So now thinking head rebuild. Shop suggestion? Not sure where you are, I'm in Colorado, boulder area. Thanks! Tom Edited August 3, 2022 by tdelker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 The JDM 5th Gen motors have high compression pistons. You have to swap the Pistons or have it custom tuned for higher compression for it to run properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 I should have the motor bolted all together and ready to start this weekend. I put it together 2 weeks ago to to figure out what was missing. My misc parts order came in yesterday. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 I got this Legacy up and running this weekend. It was a hot weekend to be working a on the car but I really want to get it running. I spent 3 hours on Saturday morning and 4 hours Sunday. The good news is that it runs, it basically started up immediately. I have check engine codes P0018 and P0345. I went through the troubleshooting diagnostic and it looks like I either have the driver intake cam off by a tooth or the solenoid for the cam gear is bad. I will check the timing belt marks this weekend. I bled the power steering. The hood wouldn't latch so I pulled that apart and grease it up, so it work properly again. The good news so far is that I didn't notice any other leaks or any major issues as of this point. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 13, 2022 Author Share Posted August 13, 2022 Today, I checked the timing belt marks behind on the driver-side. It lined up perfectly. I knew the issue was with the driver intake cam. I followed the P0018 diagnostic table. I looked at the logs in my Cobb Accessport for the drivers intake cam and it was AVCS was 0 and the OCV duty cycle was 9.4 which lined up with the service manual ~0 and 10%. It said to change the oil and check the oiling to that side. I pull the OCV valve and it was clean and moved freely. I had thought I had cleaned all the oil line, I was going that I didn't forgot. In order to check the oil giving the oil control valve, I would need to pull the timing belt, driver-side cam gear to access the banjo bolt behind that cover. I decided to reset the ECU. The P0018 went away and P0345 remained. I started following the diagnostic, which has you checking wiring to the intake cam sensor. The driver intake cam sensor is the one cam sensor that isn't very accessible, while tryin got touch I figure out the sensor electrical was not fully plugged in. I plugged it and the engine ran much better. I reset ECU and the P0018 and P0345codes went away. I did notice that I have an airbag señor light was on. I will have to figure that out. The low TPMS light was on too but I already knew the sensors were bade bacuse my TOMS tool couldn't read the back 2 sensors and I had already bought new sensor. After letting it idle for a few minutes, I got another check engine code, P0303. This is an engine misfire on cylinder 3. I am going to let the engine cool down and swap the coil between 1 and 3 to see if the code follows the coil. I purposely put the new coils that I bought on 2 and 4 because I know those are more difficult to change. The car had 2 aftermarket coil that had been replace previously probably a few years. One of them did have some rust. 2 steps forward, 2 steps backward. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 13, 2022 Author Share Posted August 13, 2022 I wished hadn't posted about the P0303. I swapped coils, the miss-fire stayed with #3. I pulled the plugs, and #3 looked brand new and didn't smell like gas. I pulled #1 to see how that one looked since it had new plugs. Clearly #3 was firing or atleast it didn't seem like it was getting fuel. I looked at diagnostic for P0303. It 1st started tracing the fuel injectors. I went immediately to check the injector. Sure enough #3 injector connector wasn't fully seated. I am usually better than this with my attention to detail. The engine now purrs like a kitten. I just have the air bag light. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 I reset the timing on an outback I was working on once 3 times because it wouldn't fire, turned out the main harness wasn't seated all the way...low and behold my brother in law working on the same outback had the same issue and scoffed at me telling him to reseat the connectors, afterward it fired right up. Sometimes that's just the way it is, easy repairs are always the best, lol. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 14, 2022 Author Share Posted August 14, 2022 While you wrote this, I was outside working on the car. I had the interior out of the car to replace the carpet, so that was my thought. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes, unconnected and reconnected the seat sensors (I can see the yellow wiring is related to the Airbag system), I cleaned the the 2 sensor connection under the hood. Connected everything back up, and it light went out. Woohoo!!! I was getting nervous after reading last night that I would need the Subaru Select monitor or some mechanic (expensive) tool to diagnose it. So now my list to finish the car. Drive it to make sure everything work properly. Mounted the tires and TPMS replaced. Charge the AC system. (I have to buy a vacuum pump) Detail the car 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 15, 2022 Author Share Posted August 15, 2022 (edited) I drove it around my neighborhood last night. The brakes sounded and felt terrible. I figure at least some it was rust but after 2 miles. It really didn't improve. I think the front pads were on the wear indicators. I will pull the brakes apart when I remove the wheels to swap over the TPMS and tires. Edited August 16, 2022 by dgoodhue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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