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dgoodhue's 2010 GGM GT project


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  • 2 weeks later...

The brake pads were nearly new (The prior owner  had told me had recently installed pads and rotors himself)  He just didn't assemble them properly.  The caliper hardware was forced into the rotor and was catching the slot.  I really can't imagine someone doing a brake job, having the car sound like this and not bother trying to fix it.  This is the driverside, the passenger side wasn't as bad but dtill make noise, one of the the caliper bolt wasn't even tight.  The driver rear brake dust shield was also bent and hitting the rotor. The tension was also broken, (it didn't have any tension), so the belts maybe been also squealing as well. Between the rod knock and the brakes screeching, this car must have been quite the header turner will all the noises it made. 

Edited by dgoodhue
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  • 3 weeks later...

The car brakes haven't feel right. If I was going 45mph and push the brakes hard, the pedal went almost to the floor.  I flushed the brakes 2 weekends ago and it didn't help, I did it again this week to double check and it still didn't help.  I posted the question up on Facebook and it seems like I have air in the ABS. I need to get a scan tool that will allow me to pulse the ABS so I can do a proper bleed. I will have to do some research on which tool to get (maybe I can get something that is also useful for my wife's Jeep)

This weekend I charged the A/C and programmed the new TPMS sensors to the car, so it wasn't a complete waste.  Once I get the brakes operating properly, the car will be up for sale.

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isolated case, but my acura was having issues like that.  the brake fluid hadn't been flushed in a very long time.  after flushing it, all of the crap in the fluid killed off the ABS pump and i was getting issues like that...brakes would work if pumped, or if you were going particularly slow, but were disturbingly inconsistent.  replaced the master cylinder and ABS pump with junk yard units and brakes were back to normal.  if pulsing doesn't work i'd be on the hunt for a new pump, and might as well do a master cylinder while everything's torn apart.  but i'm not a mechanic so grains of salt ya know

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I guess that I didn't update this thread.  I am pretty sure that I have air in the ABS system.  The prior owner painted the calipers red and I wouldn't be surprised if it happened then.  I looked around at scan tools for ABS bleeding  and thought I might be able to find a reasonable one, but seem for the later Subaru's I am going to need an expensive Scan tool for ABS bleeding.  I leaning towards bring it to the dealer to have the ABS bled.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The brakes were bled at the dealer last week, so that issue is now resolved. In driving the car to the dealer with speed limits of 45-55 mph, I found out the car has a howl from the drivetrain.  It sort sounded like a truck with loud tires.  I put the car up on jack stands and it appears that it needs rear wheel bearings.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Every time, I log into this forum, I see Motorbreath's 'the hard way' restoration.  Unfortunately that title is becoming more and more appropriate for my project as well.

I am still working on the rear wheel bearings. I tried using slide hammer, hub shocker, my next attempt is going to be to remove the spindle itself.  I can not get the pinch bolt out (at least the passenger rear), so I need to drop the rear subframe assembly to remove the rear upper control arms. I should be able to get the bearing out once I spindle off the car.  Worst case is that I buy new rear spindle(s). 

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11 hours ago, dgoodhue said:

Every time, I log into this forum, I see Motorbreath's 'the hard way' restoration.  Unfortunately that title is becoming more and more appropriate for my project as well.

Oh my, just realizing that I'm well over 100k on the stock rear wheel bearings...I was really hoping that the "hub shocker" would be the end-all be-all for this job once my ticket is punched.

Based on your experience, I will start preparing myself mentally for when mine start to fail.

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Well it is repaired now.  I removed the rear spindles and I was able get the rear wheel bearings out with a dozen blows from a sledge hammer on the back side. I bet a torch with a slide hammer would have like worked. The bearing made noise when I turned them by hand.  For good measure I also changed the rear differential fluid.  It was dirty (original) but no metal. It sounds normal when I drive it now.

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25 minutes ago, dgoodhue said:

Well it is repaired now.  I removed the rear spindles and I was able get the rear wheel bearings out with a dozen blows from a sledge hammer on the back side. I bet a torch with a slide hammer would have like worked. The bearing made noise when I turned them by hand.  For good measure I also changed the rear differential fluid.  It was dirty (original) but no metal. It sounds normal when I drive it now.

Glad to hear it you finally worked this out, my question for you is whether or not I should order the hub shocker for when I need to replace mine. Seems like a relatively expensive tool if it does not always work, saving the $150 would take a bit of the sting out of removing the spindles to get the bearings out...

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20 hours ago, motorbreath said:

Glad to hear it you finally worked this out, my question for you is whether or not I should order the hub shocker for when I need to replace mine. Seems like a relatively expensive tool if it does not always work, saving the $150 would take a bit of the sting out of removing the spindles to get the bearings out...

 

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I beat on the hub shocker quite a bit. (I was starting to get blisters on my hand). I even tried it on the other side this past weekend to see if it work on a different hub. I might save my money on the hub shock for a rusty 5th gen. 

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Yesterday, I drove the car to my PDR guy to remove all the little door dings and the 1 minor dent the car had (The car looks awesome now and doesn't have a ding on it. he probably removed above a dozen imperfections).

Well, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. Yesterday was the 1st cold day that I drove the car.  When I got home, I scanned it.  The code is P0140 which looks like it is the rear O2 sensor.  I will confirm it tonight when I go through the diagnostic tree. I had really hoped to change the draft of for sale ad to live last night. 

  • Sad 1
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