tdelker

Wow, we must all be on the same timeline! My TPMS light went off here in the coldest days of the year. Does anyone know what all the flashes mean? Are the number of flashes telling me anything, or just that it isn't seeing the sensors?

Thanks guys! I was hoping just for simple backup sensors that beep when you get close.

Did subaru sell a backup sensor that integrates with the system? I don't have Nav. 2010 GT Limited. If not, does anyone have an aftermarket addition that works well? Thanks! Tom

Went in over the weekend. They look great, light brightness is superb (I did swap in the 65W H7s from Dan Stern Lighting), I have them pointed too far down, but still 100x better at night than the old ones. I'm very happy I did this. Thanks for the help everyone! TYC quality seemed great! The side project of removing a dent in the bumper cover turned in to more of a project than I would have liked. I over heated the paint and it started coming off. So I got out my touch up pen, some 1000 grit and got it all looking pretty good and clear coated. First time I've done that, and it took some time. It's not invisible but it is definitely better than it was before I started!

They arrived, where in TYC boxes, and look beautiful! I just hope they don't make the rest of the car look old now! (Lipstick on a pig?) Now I understand why shipping was so much, HUGE box! Tom

Okay, thanks everyone! I'll keep an eye on what I get from rockauto. Hopefully they will be as expected. Still about $600 from subaruonlineparts.com Best I've seen for OEM including shipping for sure!

Best price I found for OEM headlights was quirkparts at about $280/ea, total with shipping $700. Rockauto total was $377, so about 1/2 as much. Let me know if there is a retailer I should have looked at. Tom

Where did you order it from? I'll keep any eye on this when they arrive. I ordered them as a set from rockauto.

Thanks, ordered from Rock Auto. I asked Daniel Stern (lighting expert) about new bulbs since one of mine just burnt out and he has the 65w bulbs back agani, and he correctly pointed I should also consider replacing the headlamps themselves. Mine are clouded and also have condensate inside them. I asked about eagle eye versions and he said 'hard pass' but that if OEM wasn't in the cards, TYC was acceptable. I was finding TYC pricing not much off the OEM prices on Quirkparts, until you pointed out rockauto (not sure why I didn't check there). Even with their expensive shipping, it's still less than about $150 than OEM at quirkparts, but I couldn't verify the black bezel on the quirkparts images. Thanks again for the advice! I did go with the TYC 2014 version for the black bezels.

I thought that I had read that there is a blacked out version of the headlight from Subaru that fits our 5th gen Legacys. Maybe from the outback? Does anyone have the part number? Thanks! Tom

Sign... Those rear bearings can be a challenge! I just used my largest hammer and went to town.

Yes, head gasket backwards is easy to do. I torqued mine down, thought I had it backwards, took it apart, only to verify I had it on right *head slap*. Had to get a new gasket though. No reason to re-machine unless you see serious indents from it being installed wrong. I wouldn't think that would happen, but I'm not looking at your block. Tom

At same dealer - for pickup ordered online vs walking up to counter.

Not sure if all dealers are like this, but when I order online vs in person, its about 30% less.

Decide if the wedding is about your and her or about family then plan accordingly. (Hint: Its about her and her family)

Consider pulling the t-stat all together and see if it limps along a little more. But it's in the last few gasps for sure.

I'm curious what you are paying for head rework. I paid $700/head for new valves, valve seals, decking, valve adjustment, etc. It felt like a lot, but maybe that's just the price for these dual cams.

"Will be the 4th intake and first time replacing all the gears" Why have you had to replace your intake 4 times? Or am I misunderstanding? I use the gates TK328N kit (from amazon or rock auto for best price) which has all japan rollers and 'OE Exact' tensioner.

I have a 2010 (different gen - front mounted turbo) but I also have some oil residue, and a small amount of shaft play, but no visible contact. At first I thought there was no play, but some more jiggling reveled some. I too am wondering if it is worth replacing the turbo before I get metal down the throat. $1200 for a new OEM turbo. My final decision is to wait for either a sound (stop engine immediately, no matter where I am!) or seeing black smoke on hard acceleration. My exhaust valve was just burnt, rebuild heads ($2k in heads and seals, did the work myself) and really don't want to loose my short block now. But I feel like it's not that risky. Do change those AVCS banjo bolt filters if you haven't though. That's the real problem. And if they are clogged, you might want to reconsider. Mine were very very clean.

Sounds like you need to check oil pressure.

Why so many intakes?

Not an expert here, but that image sure looks like the hot water is flowing from the head to the block through an internal passage, not through an external pipe.

I’m going to get my sent out for test and clean since it’s unclear what caused the burn exhaust valve. Wish I had d done it while I had the intake off but oh well.

Just make sure to adjust the guides after using them to hold the belt (I'm sure that was implied!). They should have a tool in the timing belt kit. Gates had a big 'caution' as they had seen some failures recently. Manuals will have a guide over the crank gear but autos won't have that guide. They all will have guides in the 4 corners.

Yikes! Sounds like he didn't help you much with his previous 'work' and not quite truthful disclosures on the state of the car.