Falcor Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Thanks for all the pointers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I leave the air box and battery in and just scratch up my hands and forearms. Although, I'm not so sure removing them would make that much difference in the amount of beating the hands take. I pulled my plugs two days ago to see how things were running and now have the little reminders all over my hands. Good luck this weekend! I hope you have somewhere decent to work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Just to make sure, and because I honestly don't know, this is the cylinder layout, correct? http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=210590&d=1434124477 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 That is indeed the cylinder layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Cylinder 1 and 3 passenger side Cylinder 2 and 4 driver side.. So yes, diagram correct Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Also, to do the compression test, from what I have found online is: Remove all plugs, remove fuel pump fuse/relay (and maybe ignition, one site said crank over and let the car die with the fuel pump fuse out), screw in gauge and crank over 5-8 time to build pressure. Repeat on each cylinder. Also, something about opening up the throttle plate? Is that correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Yeah, all of that is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Also, to do the compression test, from what I have found online is: Remove all plugs, remove fuel pump fuse/relay (and maybe ignition, one site said crank over and let the car die with the fuel pump fuse out), screw in gauge and crank over 5-8 time to build pressure. Repeat on each cylinder. Also, something about opening up the throttle plate? Is that correct? Dont really have to remove the fuses. When you go full throttle 100%, it kills the injectors and spark. Kinda like a “clear/flood mode”. I do this after every oil change to build oil pressure and then crank the car on after. So just remove the coil packs, sparkplugs. Screw in the compression tester and hold the throttle to the floor and crank it over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Dont really have to remove the fuses. When you go full throttle 100%, it kills the injectors and spark. Kinda like a “clear/flood mode”. I do this after every oil change to build oil pressure and then crank the car on after. So just remove the coil packs, sparkplugs. Screw in the compression tester and hold the throttle to the floor and crank it over. Good to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 I'm learning all kinds of new things about this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Pulled the plugs so far. Getting ready to do the compression test. Those plugs are way down in there. Not too bad, but tight space. The compression test hose is a bugger to get started in the threads. I think there is a small valve cover leak especially on the passenger side. The top of the engine is just barely damp. I’ll wait till the timing belt needs replaced in 8k or so to have that done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Good news, all 4 cylinders are between 140-145psi. Putting it all back together now. And swapping the coil pack on #2 and #4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Good news, all 4 cylinders are between 140-145psi. Putting it all back together now. And swapping the coil pack on #2 and #4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You using any fuel additives? Plugs seem orange in the photos. But they look good anyways. Report back on the coil pack swap then Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) No additives. They have about 38k on them. I’ve had the car for the last 30k. I reset the ECU then fired it up. No issues yet. It’s raining, so I’m going to wait till it stops for a test drive. Also checked for boost leaks and found none. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited July 26, 2020 by Falcor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 No additives. They have about 38k on them. I’ve had the car for the last 30k. I reset the ECU then fired it up. No issues yet. It’s raining, so I’m going to wait till it stops for a test drive. Also checked for boost leaks and found none. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Try doing the dam relearn procedure before doing any pulls to see if your dam goes up to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Try doing the dam relearn procedure before doing any pulls to see if your dam goes up to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Did a test drive and everything was the same. Swapping the coil didn't help. Link to the log is attached. I'll try to do the DAM relearn tomorrow. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpjD7X_sLAl5DFzioNboUHX5jw0ZKhnSQQzt4eI5zBE/edit?usp=sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Ok, so I decided to try the DAM relearn tonight instead of tomorrow. I went through the procedure and it went from .812 to .875. I pulled over, shut it off, turned it back on and it was back to .812. The log after that is below: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mvjNg_fSt5RzDhJV7t0mKyPE0kt5RYFtsVgqRwJIvOM/edit?usp=sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 I'm doing some research and so far back in November the DAM was .812 in a picture I took. Looking farther back. Also, could it be bad gas? It has 100 or so miles left on this tank. I got it from a place that I have gotten gas at before. I'll get gas at the BP by work. Never had a problem there and they have 93 octane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Found a pic from November 28, 2017. The starting DAM was .812 then also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 With good compression and stuff, I honestly don’t think it’s mechanical. Try unplugging the Maf sensor and see if it’ll increase dam or if your boost will go back to normal. Dont worry, your car will run on the ecu parameters with the maf unplugged. Just expect to see the cel, cruise and brake lights on the dash when you drive. This’ll determine if it’s the maf going bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabsx Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Found a pic from November 28, 2017. The starting DAM was .812 then also. Yes, OTS maps from cobb start at .812 Unless your protuned/tuned and your tuner sets it to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Yes, OTS maps from cobb start at .812 Unless your protuned/tuned and your tuner sets it to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Mine has always been an OTS 91 Stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 How long is it ok to run with the MAF unplugged? Basically, can I drive it to work 25 min to test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Those plugs do look oddly orange. Did you check the gap on the plugs? I looked through the log and it doesn't look like your knock is related to boost and your fine knock and knock aren't coming on with your boost either. I forgot, are you getting a check engine light? I would reset the computer (have you done that yet?) and maybe check and clean your grounds. Seems like a funky issue that may be resolved with a restart of the parameters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Those plugs do look oddly orange. Did you check the gap on the plugs? I looked through the log and it doesn't look like your knock is related to boost and your fine knock and knock aren't coming on with your boost either. I forgot, are you getting a check engine light? I would reset the computer (have you done that yet?) and maybe check and clean your grounds. Seems like a funky issue that may be resolved with a restart of the parameters. Didn’t check the gap on the plugs I removed, but the new plugs were right about .027 out of the box. There has never been a CEL on the car since I’ve had it. I have reset the Cobb OTS map a few times since this started. Have not messed with the grounds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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