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Back to stock boost?


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Also try and see if you can get your dam up before anything.

 

Reset ecu with cobb.

Warm up vehicle for 10mins for ecu to relearn, shut off and restart.

Drive vehicle to open road without going into any boost.

Then in 3rd gear, bring rpms at 2500rpms to build about 2-4psi of boost for roughly 5secs or soo. (Brake boosting will be needed to achieve this)

After 5-10secs, let it through the rpms and hopefully your dam increases to 1. (If everything is good, you’ll see it increase)

After that, verify boost levels.

 

 

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There's a small line on the back of the intake manifold that used to pop off on mine. I basically had to tug on the lines there to find the one that was loose. It sprung back to press on the nipple, so under vacuum my car ran pretty normal, but then wouldn't build much boost and would run rick when it did. It's actually the line that runs to the BPV.

 

A datalog would help a lot in identifying the problem.

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OK I looked at that. You're not logging AFR, that would be useful information and helpful to diagnose. It would also help to determine how risky it is to drive it as is.
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I'll swap out the temp gauge for AFR. Also, after cleaning the MAF, the DAM still just sits at .812. Goes up a bit if I get on it, but in normal driving just sits there. I didn't have any time to work on it over the weekend. We are moving in 2-3 months (moving with company) and were packing.
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I'll swap out the temp gauge for AFR. Also, after cleaning the MAF, the DAM still just sits at .812. Goes up a bit if I get on it, but in normal driving just sits there. I didn't have any time to work on it over the weekend. We are moving in 2-3 months (moving with company) and were packing.

 

 

Get knock sums/count for each cylinder and do a log

 

 

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Is the lower right gauge correct for AFR? Couldn’t find AFR in the menu.

 

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Negative

It’ll be AF Sens 1 Ratio

 

 

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I didn't log on the way to work, but on cylinders 1-3 Knock Sum was around 2-3 max. On cylinder 4 it maxed around 50-60. Didn't get on it, just normal driving. I'll log on the way home today.
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I logged the drive home and will have it posted shortly. In the meantime, here is the AP when I got home. I did step into it 2-3 times in 3rd-4th so it would be logged.

 

520cf9f2c23956e384a7fa5a7e561756.jpg

 

 

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I'll be doing more engine work than I've done in years. Hopfully this will track down the issue. I think I'll finally have some time to start on this Sunday.

 

Just ordered a compression tester.

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I'll be doing more engine work than I've done in years. Hopfully this will track down the issue. I think I'll finally have some time to start on this Sunday.

 

Just ordered a compression tester.

 

 

It’s quite easy doing the plugs.

Not sure on your mods, removal of intake box and charge pipe gives room for passenger side.

Driver side is only the battery.

12mm for the bolts of coilpacks, two/three inch extension with a sparkplug socket to do the plugs.

Try also stretching the coil spring inside the coilpack boots to insure a proper connection.(I do this to all the Subarus I’ve work on doing plugs, never had issues with it)

Insure sparkplugs are gap to spec, “.027” is the sweet spot.

 

Don’t forget to move cyl 4 coilpack to cyl 2 to see if it follows or if doing the plugs helps too.

 

And please use NGK plugs. Don’t cheap out with anything else or denso.

I did try the new NGK Ruthenium on my 2010 GT and they’ve held up pretty good with my protune and making 500hp lol. Part number I used is NGK #93420, again gap mine to .027.

 

 

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