Yet another new guy 05 OBXT build

[jaylew]

+1 for torque plates. Subaru engines aren't very ridged. So any machining, is best done when the engine is as close to its 'built' state and fully stressed. Hence torque plates to even hone the bore

[subisubisu]

Not yet 2 whole years gone by, and I hope the lull is over.  Waiting on parts now, but have made some progress recently.  I now have a short block built, for instance.

Why don't I see people advising pressing the rear main seal in?  No amount of hammering, even with extra added profanity, seemed to be leading to success, but scrounging up a few washers did the trick immediately.

[Febreze Mee]

I'm sorry for your frustration, but I am glad to see you back on the boards!

May the rest of assembly go smoothly for you!

[subisubisu]

Thanks!  I'm glad to be going again.  Dang real life getting in the way...

Mahle forged pistons, Manley H Tuff forged rods, King bearings, Permatex Ultra Gray and OEM O-rings and RMS in.  Waiting on a new oil cooler, since I decided after all of this, despite not suspecting shredded metal failure, that I didn't want to put a part like that with unknown history back in the car, when everything else is going to be new or refreshed.

One cause of the delay was wanting to do the clearance checks prior to assembly but having never done that before, was not sure of myself in proceeding.  Eventually plowed ahead anyway, and realized I can measure OD pretty decently with the micrometer but I suck at using the snap gauges to measure ID.  Machine shop said everything was standard, and my OD measurements confirmed it, and so did Plastigage (for the rod bearings) so I finally just did the assembly.

[subisubisu]

Plastigage building confidence in the con rod clearance.

 

Sealant squeeze out doesn't look excessive.

[subisubisu]

Slow is me, but at least I am making progress.  I now have a long block, and a bunch of silicone hoses that came all the way from the Middle Kingdom.  Next up is timing, and I have my Aisin kit on hand.  After it's timed, I will have to decide how much more stuff to put on the engine while on the stand, vs how much to put on while in the car.  Stand offers easier access, but makes it heavier for the crane and trickier to maneuver while keeping edges from banging into things on the way in.

Does anyone have "do this" or "don't do that" recommendations for picking my stopping point on the stand, and just getting it into the car to finish?

Oh, and I have had ZERO success in finding a torque value for the alternator bracket installation.  Since that's a lift point, it definitely needs to be installed while on the stand.  Am I blind, or is it not in the manual?  I can always resort to stock values for the size bolt, but then figure it's steel going into aluminum, so maybe there's a factor to apply, and I'd rather just do what Subaru tells me to do.

[Febreze Mee]

I also have not been able to find one, and have been told that there isn't one. I would just keep to the traditional steel bolt in aluminum rules --tight, but not too tight.

[subisubisu]

Speaking of the alternator bracket, what goes under it?  There is a threaded, non-blind hole that leads into the guts of the block.  Apparently when I was disassembling I got in a hurry at that point.  I have lots of pics from the front of the timing area set-up as it came apart, with the alternator bracket in place.  Then I have pics of the heads coming off, with the block top cleared off.  Rookie fail, except I can't claim rookie status since it's not my first pull-the-engine rodeo.  Anyway, the manual diagrams are not helpful, or I can't guess where it would be in the manual - I can find alternator removal and installation which considers the bracket in place already, and the block assembly doesn't include it.  And the sensor diagrams don't seem to show anything there, but I confess that reading those line drawings I can't always match it up to my situation, especially since the manual location drawings are for an intact car and i have a block on a stand.

So - what goes in that hole that the alternator bracket will cover up?

[Febreze Mee]

I would ask you to post a picture to be sure before I fire at the hip.

But if I'm firing at the hip, from memory, I believe it's the spot for the oil pressure sensor.

[Infosecdad]

This.  It's the oil pressure sensor.

[subisubisu]

I took pics, but haven't smallified them yet for uploading.  However, after noticing that there is a very similar hole in the opposite block half, I think they are oil passage access holes and are normally filled with bolts.  This IS my first rodeo with sending stuff off to a machine shop, so I didn't just put bolts back in their holes as I normally would when disassembling.  And further, I tried to open up everything I could for the hot tank cleaning to access.  The oil pressure sensor is actually in the 1-3 block half, right up front, sticking into the mirror image oil passage.  Both of those  passages are also accessible by plugs in the front of the block, and I'm planning on using one of them for an oil pressure gauge send for viewing in the driver's seat.  The hole I was wondering about is in the 2-4 block half and will be covered up by the alternator bracket when I reinstall it.  Its counterpart in the 1-3 half is at the back.  Both of them sit in the passage that feeds oil to their respective heads, the one that the oval hole in the head gasket is cut for.  This is like a big boy puzzle.

[Infosecdad]

Ah, under the bracket. If there is anything there it's a plug (no room for anything else).

I tried looking under my bracket on my spare block and I can't find a plug, at least that would be a similar size as the plug in the back of the 1-3 side, it's hiding well.

The port in the back of the 1-3 half was a plug until I installed an aftermarket oil pressure sensor.

The port in the front of the 1-3 half under the alternator houses the stock oil pressure switch that powers the light for "you better put oil in soon or else".

[subisubisu]

If I spent some time, I could do a better job of marking the pic, but this shows the elements.

[Infosecdad]

Interesting, I haven't seen the small holes used; maybe they are, and I just didn't know.

The oil galley port that most people use (me included) for an aftermarket oil pressure/temp sensor is the hex plug further back from the small hole labeled "mirror hole". I'm not sure the small ones are big enough for a sensor and/or have enough clearance under the intake manifold.

[subisubisu]

4 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

Interesting, I haven't seen the small holes used; maybe they are, and I just didn't know.

The oil galley port that most people use (me included) for an aftermarket oil pressure/temp sensor is the hex plug further back from the small hole labeled "mirror hole". I'm not sure the small ones are big enough for a sensor and/or have enough clearance under the intake manifold.

The one I was considering using on the 1-3 side isn't visible in this pic just below the stock oil pressure send, but since the block halves have a lot of mirror features, the plug edge (plug is driven in from the front) is visible above the "sitio" in "Crank position sensor" on the 2-4 side.  I guess I could use the one you use.  I won't know until I get the block a lot more dressed and see where the room is available.  Not sure what will interfere on the front side.  I won't get the timing on until tomorrow evening and the other belts won't go on until the engine is in the car.

I guess I should load the new pressure sensor in the plug adapter to see how much it protrudes into the passage.  I don't want to obstruct flow., and the factory sensor is nearby my Plan A site.

Those little passages are only for cleaning or something like that, I am guessing.  I had two shorty bolts in the bag labeled as coming off the top of the block and I am running out of places they will fit.  The manual isn't super helpful with the block holes that don't contain sensors or are not input or outputs.  I had a hard time determining the part number for the plug I needed to replace the block heater I removed.

Looking at the pics I DID take during disassembly, I think I might be better off mounting the turbo on the stand.  There is a lot of plumbing associated with it, and access from the firewall side isn't the greatest, I remember from trying to replace the downpipe after I did the 6MT swap.

[KZJonny]

sorry for the garbage pics….

one seems to be just a bolt, the other the ¿power steering bracket? attachment point…

late night photo, and it’s cold out there.

[subisubisu]

Thanks!  Actually I think I see bolts in both the spots I was wondering about.  I hope the malt was put to good use.

[KZJonny]

Hah! Yeah. I chuck a bag of chit in my double ipa's, helps get the total soluble protien up and hold 'haze', if you're into that kind of thing. I'm not, so much, but the market wants it... Best Pilsner is awesome tho, if you're into classic lagers. Anyway...

And I am pretty sure that bolt with red locktite on it is one of them (the AC bracket?)

If you like, I could back out that other one at the back and take a measurement for you. I just wasn't about to go looking for cold hand tools that late last night.

[subisubisu]

Thanks, no need.  I'm confident that I'm on the right track now.  Got my cam bolts all torqued and timing going on.  Then I'll probably add the turbo and TGVs  with fuel routing - things that have lots of plumbing that I might rather do on the stand than lean into the engine bay to do.  Won't be too long before it goes back in!  Still all the connections to make, radiator to replace, V-belts to install, front axles and suspension to go in and a rough alignment to make.  And at that point I can expect the joy of doing my first ECU upload.

Not saying I won't have any more basic questions about what goes where, though.

[subisubisu]

Timed!

[subisubisu]

Scared myself.  Quit last evening after confirming all timing lined up and went to (late) supper.  Back in the garage this evening I figured I'd turn it over a few times before putting the spark plugs in and watch in pride as the timing marks lined back up, but before I had made two revolutions the thing jumped time on me at the crank cog.  It seemed to be tight on the 2-4 side - what could it be?  Did the machine shop screw up the valve installation?  Nothing to do but take out the last idler pulley and remove the belt.

Turn over the crank - fine.  Left side intake - also fine.  Left side exhaust - fine.  What the hell?  Right side too.  Well, at least the rotating elements don't exhibit a problem. 

I put the belt back on with everything lined up and installed the last idler again and thought about it.  The first time I didn't install all the little guides at the cams corners and the bump guard at the crank, and I didn't pull the pin on the tensioner yet.  I installed all the guides and tried again - success!  Apparently they do a critical job.  I pulled the tensioner pin and quit again for supper.  I hate to miss meals.  So I'm back to where I was yesterday, but with greater confidence.  This is why my progress is so slow.

[subisubisu]

Didn't look ahead with enough detail.  Got a gasket kit of Subaru OEM parts for the engine rebuild, and it came with TGV gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets and I could see those in the pile of gaskets I pulled off on the teardown and grew complacent.  I didn't notice that I also had the exhaust pipe gaskets at either end of the front crossover (where the unequal length magic happens!) and at either end of the up pipe, plus either end of the down pipe in the pile but not in my kit.  So I made an order, and I'll be fiddling around with small things while I wait for those to come.  I do have the exhaust mocked up and the turbo mounted so I can see how all the plumbing goes.  There is a certain amount.  I think I'll take the weight penalty for lifting into the car and have this stuff all torqued down when I do the install.  Shouldn't be too long after the gaskets get here, all were supposed to be in stock, and depending on the availability of a friend to help guide the block in.  I got it out by myself, but I do think the install will go better with help.  It sure is nice to be getting this stuff off the floor and back onto the engine.  When it is back in the car and I can put away the engine stand and the crane, it will be downright roomy in the garage.

Idle question - the manifold to block gaskets have a raised surface on one side.  Does that go toward the block or toward the manifold?

[subisubisu]

At long last, some visible and tangible progress!

In order to take advantage of my friend's window of availability, we abandoned plans/hopes/dreams of mounting and plumbing the turbo, and of fishing wires for my new wideband O2 and oil pressure and temp gauges through the firewall, although we did tear out a good portion of the console.  Now I'm RTFF to find out how to get deep enough to find the firewall pass-through from the inside.

[subisubisu]

Hmm, I take it there's supposed to be something in the cabin air filter pull-out tray.  Nothing in mine.  At least there was nothing nasty there.

[subisubisu]

Engine lift friend who was pulling the glove box and radio console apart confirms no cabin air filter was there.  So, either someone went to the trouble to remove an old one and just did a delete, or maybe it wasn't there from the factory.  I will never know, but a new one is ordered.

And I used my endoscope and some twisted trimmer string to establish a route between cabin and engine bay through the firewall via the empty hole.  Well, it was plugged, but now it's available for my gauge wires.  I've quit for the evening, tired and mad at the little bastard, but I won.  Tomorrow I'll pull the wires through and once everything is in place, I can wire up the gauge pod and rebuild the console puzzle and attach the sensors at my leisure.  This was a big deal.  Most everything else seems to be pretty much just installing until I get to the ECU flash and the rough alignment, neither of which I've done before.