LittleBlueGT Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 IAM multiplier is 1.00 I have load activated as well, it should be in last log I posted. My throttle opening angle does indeed get to 100%. All good info thanks again. I have noticed that regardless of which map I am on, and fuel additive it does not seem to matter. (getting octane boost tomorrow) I get the -KC values. It was as high as -6 or -7 when it was cool outside, now it is fairly warm and it is as high as -9. I enabled the Knock Signal #1 and it never reads anything but 0. Is it possible that some other thing is causing the -KC values other then knock? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Using an oiled intake? Check your MAF to see that it's clean? <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Using an oiled intake? Check your MAF to see that it's clean? Good idea! There must just be some noise or something, try flashing to stock and do some logs.... I wonder if one of the tuners might have some insight here? My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Using an oiled intake? Check your MAF to see that it's clean? Using a K&N replacement drop in filter. I have never oiled it, just put it in. I suppose it could have been over-oiled from factory. Car feels fairly strong though. I once had a fouled MAF snesor in my Maxima because of a K&N airfilter that I oiled, it was a very noticeable loss in power. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 ^ Hum, that's very strange - from the factory, it definitely shouldn't have come over-oiled, particularly if it had been sitting "stock" somewhere. Give the MAF a look-see, regardless, I would say, as it's super easy to pull. I forgot who on here had some -KC troubles after an aftermarket TMIC install...but if I remember correctly, it simply turned out to be a dirty MAF. Might as well give it a look-see. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Just had a thought, if it is not the MAF (it is possible); then, could it be your headers rattling? Do they rub anywhere? You wouldn't hear it, but the vibration may be causing noise the the knock sensor could hear... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Just had a thought, if it is not the MAF (it is possible); then, could it be your headers rattling? Do they rub anywhere? You wouldn't hear it, but the vibration may be causing noise the the knock sensor could hear... I got some non-chlorinated brake cleaner today to clean the MAF. I really don't think it is the MAF because I get readings of over 230g/s sometimes, and that is about the highest I have seen for stage 1. I will also take off the lower engine cover and see if I can see some rattling potential. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmundu Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I didn't think the header's would increase efficiency that much, but it is possible that the engine doesn't need as much advance now? Basically the volume of the header's combined with the UP, allow more exhaust to fit, thereby lowering/delaying the backpressure seen in the cylinder, hence the ecu doesn't feel the need to ignite the mixture as early as it needed to before. Cobb also likes to run lots of timing in their maps too. You would still benefit from a tune, because the ecu is still needing to play catchup, rather than picking the right timing curves to begin with..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Again thanks for the response. I will try and repay the community by helping out whoever I can when they are having a problem. Just cleaned MAF sensor, no change! Put in a bottle of NOS octane boost and saw -KC go down to -4! Put in another bottle of octane boost as we speak. Writing from my laptop in my car (wireless internet is cool). I will write back with the results. I am sure last time I put in 91 octane, my bill shows it, and it is from a reliable source. I only have half a tank, so right now I should be at about 97 octane. Time to drive and log. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Obviously my knock sensor works properly, and my MAF works properly. The octane boost did the trick, but at a cost of $25 per 1/3 tank of gas!!!! I will try the stock map next time I fill up if I get -KC values again. This time when I was driving I listened real carefully for knock. I heard it for about 1/10 of a second and then could not hear it anymore. After the two bottles of octane boost I could no longer hear it at all. Car felt a bit stronger but nothing that noticeable. I think Edmundu is right, the headers are having some sort of effect on scaveging. Need a proper tune from TDC, also need a TBE!!!!!!!!!!!headers91cali.pdfoctaneboost1.pdfoctaneboostX2.pdf Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Also in the logs I noticed a change to the IAM tables, what does that mean? One more thing, what does -44% air fuel correction mean? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 I am glad you found it, have you tested on more than one tank of gas? could this be just a bad tank? A TDC tune will fix this for sure... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 I am glad you found it, have you tested on more than one tank of gas? could this be just a bad tank? A TDC tune will fix this for sure... Just started testing a while ago,so this is the only tank of gas. NEED TDC, but I want to wait for the TBE. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luminati Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Just started testing a while ago,so this is the only tank of gas. NEED TDC, but I want to wait for the TBE. +1 Thats all im waiting for also, just gotta scratch up some more money within the next few weeks. - Luminati Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Just ordered an E-tune from TDC. It seems he has been very busy, so it might take a while to get it. I will post my results. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluechipbmw Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 Just ordered an E-tune from TDC. It seems he has been very busy, so it might take a while to get it. I will post my results. I ordered mine too. How long did he say he it would be? 1 week or 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 I ordered mine too. How long did he say he it would be? 1 week or 2? Ordered it on his webpage, so I don't know! Hopefully not that long. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanth Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 So here we go, got some data in need of interpretation: 2005 Legacy GT MT with 25k Perrin pulley, HKS catless up, PDE catless dp, Greddy EVO2, K&N Typhoon, GFB BOV, with AP running Stage 2 93oct. THE FILES ARE CSV THAT I RENAMED PDF FOR DOWNLOAD. ALL Runs done in 3rd gear unless otherwise noted. (Ignore the EGT's, I think a wire was loose after my EGT guage install, so I know I need to fix that.) There is no KC is any daily driving between speedbumps etc. Seems the KC drops around 6k rpm and when I let off of WOT. Feedback would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REM87O Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 What kind of EGT guage are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanth Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 A POS Megan Racing gauge, but it appears when I installed my UP I may have damaged my EGT guage. It reads erratically jumping from 698 to higher values, but none of the logs showed anything above 1200. It is such a pain in the ass to replace. Is there a REAL function in regards to the ECU adjusting fuel parameters, or is it merely for monitoring sake, to ensure it does not exceed 1800? Basically I am not looking forward to changing it out until I get some manifolds. EDIT: Ok so I really need to become better friends with the Search feature. So the EGTs are prone to failure with aftermarket UPs and when reused, conclusion: it's phukt. 99 cent Radio shack resistor fix here I come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Your MAF readings look low to me. I get higher values at stage1! I think it might have to do with your intake. Jon at TDC has a K&N Typhoon on his car, so maybe he could get you a map. I am not an expert though, so others please chime in. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 So here we go, got some data in need of interpretation: 2005 Legacy GT MT with 25k Perrin pulley, HKS catless up, PDE catless dp, Greddy EVO2, K&N Typhoon, GFB BOV, with AP running Stage 2 93oct. THE FILES ARE CSV THAT I RENAMED PDF FOR DOWNLOAD. ALL Runs done in 3rd gear unless otherwise noted. (Ignore the EGT's, I think a wire was loose after my EGT guage install, so I know I need to fix that.) There is no KC is any daily driving between speedbumps etc. Seems the KC drops around 6k rpm and when I let off of WOT. Feedback would be much appreciated. Looks good so far... The data sampling rate looks a little slow to me... What program are you using to log? If it is still the Tari DL1, try the new ecuExplorer, it is much faster. Link: http://www.tari.co.za/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1138965460 Any -KC when NOT on the throttle is OK, at wide open throttle it should not happen very often. Download the ecuExplorer, and try some longer logs. Do some 3rd gear pulls from ~2000 (27mph) to ~6000+ (87 mph), the higher the better as long as you are safe, especially if you ever rev the engine that high in aggressive driving. Most -KC won't happen until higher rpm. Try empty highway on-ramps... EDIT: I see you did log higher rpm on the second pull, but the data points were so far apart as to be almost unusable... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Your MAF readings look low to me. I get higher values at stage1! I think it might have to do with your intake. Jon at TDC has a K&N Typhoon on his car, so maybe he could get you a map. I am not an expert though, so others please chime in. He is keeping his rpm pretty low in the logs, higher MAF's happen at higher RPM (along with Higher Horsepower). this could also be because of his K&N filter... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 He is keeping his rpm pretty low in the logs, higher MAF's happen at higher RPM (along with Higher Horsepower). this could also be because of his K&N filter... His second one at 6000 rpm showed around 220 g/s, I would expect about 240-250, NO? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 His second one at 6000 rpm showed around 220 g/s, I would expect about 240-250, NO? Yes you are correct, I would expect at least 230+. But Mass Air I have found is not a good indication of Horsepower. For example, when I was Stage 1 I could hit about 230. But with my Stage 2 TDC tune, I hit about the same or LOWER. But I know I am making a LOT more power, because I had the car to the Dyno... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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