Ares3985 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Ok guys. I have a problem again. So my control arms are shot. I got a new set with everything pressed in already. So I disassembled everything except for the ball joints. I have the pinch bolt out of the knuckle and have been beating on this control arm with a 3lb hammer for hours. I’ve drenched this thing in penetrating fluid. I heated it. Keep beating the heck out of it. I can’t get it out. To be clear. I am trying to separate the control with the ball joint in it from the knuckle. Not the ball joint from the control arm. If anyone had any ideas on how to get this thing out it would be appreciated because now I have 2 control arms hanging down and are beat to hell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 pickle fork, your best friend in these situations 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 26, 2019 Author Share Posted July 26, 2019 pickle fork, your best friend in these situations Yeah but isn’t that for just separating the ball joint from the control arm? I’m trying to get the ball out of the knuckle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue wrench Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 There's a couple of ways you can go about it. If you have some time and money to spare, you can finish removing the control arm from the ball joint stuck in the knuckle, and order yourself a Subaru ball joint puller tool. Snap-On makes one, as well as Company23, and there may be others. If you have access to an air hammer with a chisel bit, you can also try placing the edge of the bit at a downward angle, on the lip of the ball joint that protrudes when it's in the knuckle and air hammer it out. With 2 people, one person can place a long pry bar between the top of the control arm and the bottom of the knuckle (where the pinch bolt goes), while the other person swings a BFH to the control arm right by where the ball joint stud goes through. There's a chance you can beat the control arm to hell this way, but a non issue if you're replacing the whole arm. With any method, it can also help to VERY CAREFULLY spread the knuckle apart, where the pinch bolt goes through, with either a chisel and hammer or air hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 Ok. I’ll try the air hammer. Go grab one tomorrow and some mapp gas. I can’t believe how stuck this thing is. Hopefully the gallon of penetration fluid that’s on it works it’s magic overnight too which will help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 As someone who has done this way more times than I care to admit. My go-to is a crowbar I bought from the dollar tree (yes, they have those there) I’d wedge it between the control arm and the knuckle and use a rubber mallet and pull out my strongest choice vocabulary and go to town. Heat would help. Typically let it soak overnight in PB blaster to get the job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d22597 Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 Or just buy a new knuckle for $160. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 The ball joint puller has worked for me in most cases in about 15 seconds. Only exception was when the ball joint was so stuck that it just ripped the threads off of the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 Or just buy a new knuckle for $160. Well that’s the last resort. Hopefully I can avoid that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 Separate the control arms first and get them out of the way. Use a slide hammer to assist in getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. It's a little awkward because you have to use the hub puller piece but it works like a charm, every time! Freeze-off is a great product to use on real rusty parts. Heat expands, cold contracts. Heat works but you will be breathing in all the nasty chemicals from the boots and grease. You will need to heat up the knuckle which can take quite a while and you risk damaging it. Be sure to make clean the hole once you get the ball joint out to make install easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Yeah, loosely bolt the arms back into the chassis. then work on getting the ball joint out. I would remove the ball joint first, then work on the easy stuff. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Got the first side done. Just want a new pinch bolt as to not take any chances. Used the air hammer in the pinch area to spread it and banged 10 times it popped right out. It was so corroded. It definitely had way more play than the new ones. Also changed the sway bar endlink while I was in there and might even do the tie rod end. Now I have to work on the other that has a rounded pinch bolt. Got an extractor set on the way. Hopefully amazon comes through and I can finish the second side today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 easiest way to deal with this issue is an air hammer, just stick it in the slit and let the air chisel pry it apart and the vibrations eventually shake it right out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Post a photo. I have never seen a ball joint I couldn't separate from either side on any vehicle. Once I see exactly what you are talking about, I'll tell you how to remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Air chisel worked. All done. So the air chisel probably shouldn’t be used to pound the ball Joint out but it is good for spreading the knuckle. I drove it in then used a chisel on each side. I gotta say I have never had to beat something like this to get it out. It took a good hour or so of pounding. Eventually it didn’t start to come out. When I pulled them. They were disgusting completely rusted and they were so worn out and moved so easily. The new ones are stiff. I greased everything and put never seize on all the bolts. The knuckle bolts had to be replaced. One broke off and the other was so damaged it couldn’t be used. Now I just have to wait for the test drive. Left the key in all night and she’s dead. So I have a slow charge on it. Wish there was a way to move the steering by hand without the key but oh well. It’s done now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Ain't it great working on old cars...Glad you got it done. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 Ain't it great working on old cars...Glad you got it done. Especially old cars from the northeast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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