The LGT Wagon Journey

[A.n.bastaki]

 

Buddy came over so was able to get a ride to harbor freight, grab this, only goes down to 0.0015” so i hope its usable...

 

Also took pictures of the passenger side head & the condition of all 4 cylinder walls. Will post them up later.

 

And ofcourse, picked up free batteries at harbor freight, gotta love that membership

 

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Edited June 1, 2019 by A.n.bastaki

[DaveWaters]

I could actually feel a dip in my buckets running my finger across them. When I dropped my heads off this was pointed out to me. If yours are anything like mine you may not even need a flat edge to find they’re worn.

 

Edit.. Um missed the post above about you not feeling anything

[A.n.bastaki]

Wasn’t able to use the feeler gauges for the bucket yet.

 

Current stage, need to get the heads together to send to the machine shop. Using http:// https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mr-tris-rebuild-threadi-246893.html

 

Copied from above link:

 

* Headwork:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JmP6889928 View Post

1. Machine shop will pressure test.

2. Hot tank

3. Clean the valves and inspect to make sure there is enough sealing surface on the valve itself and if not, replace.

4. Inspect the valve guides and replace if necessary.

5. Inspect the valve seats and replace if necessary.

6. Grind the valves themselves on a valve grinding machine.

7. Grind the seats with a valve seat grinder.

8. Deck the heads (gasket surface) enough without being too much-enough to make sure that they both are flat.

9. Install the valves into the head with assembly lube.

10. Install new valve stem seals on each valve.

11. Reinstall the springs onto each valve stem.

12. Insert your cams and buckets and switch buckets around until they have the valves correctly lashed as per specs.

13. Call you up to come and get them and pay them $400.00 or more, depending on exactly what else is needed.

Bring your heads (the big pieces), also the cam towers (other half of the cam slot) cams, and the little pieces on the ends. They need the cams and the cam tower bolts as well, in order to set the valves. From the Gasket Kit, bring 16 valve stem seals. (8/ea of the grey and 8/ea of the green little circles). Inspect the cam journals for excessive wear and pray that you don't need new heads. The castings alone (bare head castings are ~$500 each side!) Handle them with care. This is especially important if you've had oil contamination due to rod bearing failure or turbo failure. Foreign material will cause excessive wear and can potentially damage much of your longblock.

 

To make sure I take over everything, will try to get a quote as soon as possible, but not sure when I’ll be getting them done. And get a parts list made within this week.

 

When I started taking the engine out, I was planning for a new short block, or buddy’s 50k miles shortblock, its from a wrx, and has no issues. Could get for around $400 , saving more than $1000. I trust his block think its worth it, I know i don’t want use my block. So will be using the shortblock in my parts lists.

 

Below is the pictures of each cylinder ;

Ordering the cylinders by side, Passenger then driver side ( 1 - 3 , 2 - 4 )

 

Cylinder 1 (burnt valve, crossthread sparkplug)

 

 

———————

 

Cylinder 3

 

 

__________________

 

Cylinder 2

 

 

__________________

 

Cylinder 4

 

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

 

Not exactly sure where its from, I don’t remember it being like this before. The axle has always been like that, and I plan to replace both axles. When the steering is in full lock, taking a uturn, or tight turns at parking lot speeds theres a sound, maybe grinding or banging idk how to explain it, but its felt through the car and sometimes feels like theres some hop in the wheel when turning like that. Initial diagnoses for it was fix axles since i know they are bad, then if it doesn’t fix it look into something else, this was my plan when I first got the car.

 

Also looking into group N motor mounts

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

That is CV axle grease, rebuild your OEM axles, its the best option.

 

There are videos on how to do it, just google it.

 

 

 

The cylinders look about normal.

[A.n.bastaki]

That is CV axle grease, rebuild your OEM axles, its the best option.

 

There are videos on how to do it, just google it.

 

 

 

The cylinders look about normal.

 

 

 

Will do, thank you for the heads up, I have to check if my current ones are oem or not.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

The green paint, leads me to believe they are OEM.

 

Oh, that grease is really smelly when it hits the hot exhaust pipes.

[StkmltS]

When you pick a shop to rebuild your heads, make sure they understand how Subaru buckets work... the shop will either need to grind the new valves to work with your current buckets, or they'll have to use new/used buckets to make your new valves work. If the shop is familiar with Subaru then they'll know what they're doing.

[A.n.bastaki]

The green paint, leads me to believe they are OEM.

 

Oh, that grease is really smelly when it hits the hot exhaust pipes.

 

 

 

The other one looks orange, but idk if thats real orange or rust haha.

 

 

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[JmP6889928]

Thirlby Automotive in Traverse City Michigan to do the heads. They do about 30-40 sets of Subaru heads a month for the past 20+ years. You're in Milwaukee, but I promise they will be flawless when done and the lash will be set and correct for you to just install and go.

 

I've known them (Thirlby Automotive) for 30 years and they build a number of aluminum 800+ HP circle track engines as well as build offshore race boat engines (and race offshore race boats). They've done probably 8 sets of heads for me, about another 20 sets for friends, and have never had a single issue with any of them.

 

PM me if you want their contact information.

[Max Capacity]

Thirlby Automotive in Traverse City Michigan to do the heads. They do about 30-40 sets of Subaru heads a month for the past 20+ years. You're in Milwaukee, but I promise they will be flawless when done and the lash will be set and correct for you to just install and go.

 

I've known them (Thirlby Automotive) for 30 years and they build a number of aluminum 800+ HP circle track engines as well as build offshore race boat engines (and race offshore race boats). They've done probably 8 sets of heads for me, about another 20 sets for friends, and have never had a single issue with any of them.

 

PM me if you want their contact information.

 

 

Sounds like my long time machine shop in Somersville CT Eastwood Auto Machine. They do a ton of the Dealership repair service.

[A.n.bastaki]

The taped off connector is the pcv diagnosis connector. It doesn't do anything except let you know that the connector is there. There is a metal clip that is plugged in to the connector which is most likely why it is taped.

As max stated, the orange plug is for the egt. Your car most likely has the code disabled since there isn't a plug and resistor connected.

 

 

 

You are correct, sorry I only got to this now.

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

I will keep Thirlby Automotive in mind, I intend on using a local machine shop that my friend speaks highly off.

 

I tried using the feeler gauge to check for flatness using the method Max mentioned but realized I don’t know what I’m doing.

 

Heard back from JMP for the turbo, i think i will be sending my turbo for a rebuild, I want to go to a vf52 right away, but i’m trying to be as conservative and budget friendly as possible.

 

For fueling i intend to go with stock 08+ wrx top feeds. I will be redoing my fueling with AN fuel lines, but i haven’t done enough research to decide if i want to pay extra for a complete kit like the one IAG carries, or save money with a more DIY kit.

 

How do we feel about reusing waterpumps? Its an AISIN (WPF023) waterpump that the previous owner installed with the timing kit about 30k miles ago. It still looks new to me.

 

I’m not sure how stripped the shortblock i plan ln getting, should I replace these coolant lines or sand them down a bit and coat them?

 

The oil cooler line has to be replaced, the block I’m getting didn’t come with an oilcooler (+08 wrx) So the line might be eliminated instead of replaced

 

 

My friend asked me if i know how to put everything back or am i just tearing apart stuff randomly. Being my first time and expecting hiccups I made sure to be as cautious as possible, sent him a video with how I have the parts bagged, labeled and organized. My thread here, the organization, the service manual and the pictures i took should make for a smooth rebuild.

http://

 

I have a spreadsheet going for the shopping list and will be posting it when i edit it, struggling with trying to keep it to the essentials to get back on the road, theres a bunch of things that i’d like to have right away if feasible, such as a wideband, oil temp&pressure sensors/gauges, AOS, and Dom cooling mod. All of which can be done afterwards, but doing them now is easier and for example I consider an AOS somewhat an essential.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

I replaced the coolant cross over tube to the oil cooler in my rebuild. I reused the others.

 

Water pump, you may be ok to reuse that one. Its a big labor charge to have it replaced later if it goes bad before the timing belt. That's why we say use a new one...but with only 30,000 miles on it...

 

Checking for flatness, have you ever seen how a machine shop checks a head and block deck surfaces for flatness ? They'll lay a straight edge on the surface and try and slide a .00015 or thinner piece between the surface the edge. That's was in the old day/s may be now they use a machine but... hey, google it.

Edited June 5, 2019 by Max Capacity

[Max Capacity]

https://www.google.com/search?ei=QIr3XInVHYX_5gK56oOYDQ&q=how+to+check+a+engine+block+surface+for+flatness&oq=how+to+check+a+engine+block+surface+for+flatness&gs_l=psy-ab.3...18639.23405..24512...0.0..0.109.1136.12j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i13i30j33i10.cHWx4J43K7Q

[A.n.bastaki]

I replaced the coolant cross over tube to the oil cooler in my rebuild. I reused the others.

 

Water pump, you may be ok to reuse that one. Its a big labor charge to have it replaced later if it goes bad before the timing belt. That's why we say use a new one...but with only 30,000 miles on it...

 

Checking for flatness, have you ever seen how a machine shop checks a head and block deck surfaces for flatness ? They'll lay a straight edge on the surface and try and slide a .00015 or thinner piece between the surface the edge. That's was in the old day/s may be now they use a machine but... hey, google it.

 

 

 

When you put it that way, a new waterpump is the way to go. Would hate it to go before the belt.

 

I tried doing something similar to what you mentioned & your link(one of the videos that pop up). I think I’m having a problem because of the size and where the scuff is.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/engine-rebuild-threads-engines-only-142.html

 

That forum there, will have some post on the buckets and sizing in the threads with more post.

 

There are other members here that know how to select those and have even traded with each other.

 

If you need, buying a new one is the smart thing to do.

[A.n.bastaki]

I made a shopping list with the best prices I was able to find online, waiting to hear back from a contact who usually hooks it up with aftermarket parts.

 

subaru parts outlet was with a local subaru dealership that i've been told prices everything 25% over cost. my friend at another dealership said he can't compete with that.

 

I will be running the same turbo for a bit then replacing it with a rebuilt unit from JMP

 

current expected total is $3,532.95.

doesn't include shipping or tax where applicable.

open to all suggestions/comments.

[A.n.bastaki]

The shopping list also doesn’t include axles. I took then out today to have a look at them to make sure they are rebuildable. As far as I can tell, they are rebuildable.

 

The boot came off as i took the axle out.

 

 

Knew I needed snapring pliers fully disassemble, but was able to get a good look none the less.

 

 

 

Was glad there was zero trans fluid dripping, the passenger side was worse, since the engine and driver side axles are out, the trans likes to move instead of the axle popping out...

 

After giving it a few tugs while trying to keep the trans in place, this happened. Ended up using a few different tools to push the cup out.

 

 

The passenger side was the one with some front to back play when i looked at it back in January.

 

 

Theres more cleaning to be done with them, but will wait till i get snap ring pliers. I have Lucas heavy duty grease (green stuff) in a grease gun, probably has 12ounces or so left in it, I don’t think it’ll be enough for all 4 boots. Also i believe i need to get a tool for the straps/clamps.

 

 

After doing the leak down and compression i noticed i’m missing the ground wire on the passenger side, from what i’ve been told this could have been the reason my motor went. I added a make-shift wire and decided to drive the car a bit. The car started up normally, drives as if theres no problem. Noticed the steering wheel shakes a lot anything over 50mph, so i’m not sure why thats happening. Still have cylinder#1 misfire and still smells like its running rich. Unfortunately With the compression & leak down numbers, theres no hope for it being a minor issue, so the engine has to come out either way

 

 

 

 

Figured out why it was shaking... was a painful facepalm moment, passenger side had a hub centric ring from the other set of wheels. Will need to check the rears to make sure this is the only one I missed.

 

 

 

Finally, enjoy my attempt to use roommates car as a sexy background.

 

 

 

 

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Edited June 7, 2019 by A.n.bastaki

[dgoodhue]

I made a shopping list with the best prices I was able to find online, waiting to hear back from a contact who usually hooks it up with aftermarket parts.

 

subaru parts outlet was with a local subaru dealership that i've been told prices everything 25% over cost. my friend at another dealership said he can't compete with that.

 

I will be running the same turbo for a bit then replacing it with a rebuilt unit from JMP

 

current expected total is $3,532.95.

doesn't include shipping or tax where applicable.

open to all suggestions/comments.

[ATTACH]276364[/ATTACH]

 

Skip the Gates timing belt kits even the N kits with Japanese bearings are suspect. Spend a few extra dollars for the Continental Kit or ideally the OEM. I know a local owner who happen to have his engine apart 60K and checked his Gates N timing belt kit only find the tensioner leaking and his one of his idlers was rough spinning, maybe it will last the full timing belt interval in that state, but I wouldn't trust it with an interference engine. Someone post on this forum in the engine build section just recently posted with a 2.5i that reported that same issue with a Gates N kit.

[Max Capacity]

Oh, yes, do not get the Gates kit, sorry I missed that.

 

Aisin is the preferred kit now day's. TKF-004 I think is the kit. I have that on my 09 Spec B. JmP's sticky has a post about it.

[A.n.bastaki]

Skip the Gates timing belt kits even the N kits with Japanese bearings are suspect. Spend a few extra dollars for the Continental Kit or ideally the OEM. I know a local owner who happen to have his engine apart 60K and checked his Gates N timing belt kit only find the tensioner leaking and his one of his idlers was rough spinning, maybe it will last the full timing belt interval in that state, but I wouldn't trust it with an interference engine. Someone post on this forum in the engine build section just recently posted with a 2.5i that reported that same issue with a Gates N kit.

 

 

Oh, yes, do not get the Gates kit, sorry I missed that.

 

Aisin is the preferred kit now day's. TKF-004 I think is the kit. I have that on my 09 Spec B. JmP's sticky has a post about it.

 

 

 

Thank you for the input.

 

 

PN confirmed TKF004

Found at rockauto for 242.79 without shipping

Found at amazon for 253.99 with shipping

 

Will be going with Aisin.

 

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

Installed a dw65c fuel pump

This guide - http:// https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/deatschwerks-dw300c-fuel-pump-w-install-kit-install-245408.html?

 

Surprised with the amount of fuel in the lines, I killed the car before engine pull.

I’m almost certain the fuel light was one but there was a decent amount in that tank.

 

 

 

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[wrayturbo]

Man our journeys couldn't be more alike! I built the same wagon and went way to deep just as you. The cost adds up that is for sure but it's so much fun to drive and practical to boot. Mine just recently got hit and it may be the end for her so yours just got more rare.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AR7n22u6CNtoj2Z7

[A.n.bastaki]

Man our journeys couldn't be more alike! I built the same wagon and went way to deep just as you. The cost adds up that is for sure but it's so much fun to drive and practical to boot. Mine just recently got hit and it may be the end for her so yours just got more rare.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AR7n22u6CNtoj2Z7

 

 

 

Beautiful wagon, and love all the pictures, sorry it got hit ;(

 

I still kid myself and say I didn’t go to deep, but its getting harder and harder to say that.

 

 

 

 

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