The LGT Wagon Journey

[A.n.bastaki]

After taking the pics on Saturday friend invited me over for burgers, cigars, and a bonfire. Had a great night and zero regrets for not starting on the legacy last night.

 

Started working on the legacy around 2pm , had the motor out at 8pm. This is my second time pulling an engine. My first experience pulling an engine was on this legacy when i did the clutch back in march with the help of a couple friends. Company is nice to have, but when it comes to actually wrenching on the car I’ve discovered that i prefer to be the only one doing the work.

 

I had a wonderful time pulling the engine, working at my own pace, taking the extra time to label and bag bolts, and return each socket when i’m done with it ; has proven to be a very enjoyable time.

Lucky my roommate came home in time to lend a hand splitting the engine from the trans, I’ve tried a few different heights for the engine & trans, and i think the trick is to pull up on the exhaust manifold to get that last bit out.

 

Planning to start the engine teardown tomorrow.

 

Ps. Sorry if this becoming too much of a journal.

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

Had 1 causality, but it was somewhat intentional knowing i’ll be replacing the hard fuel lines.

 

One of the intercooler bolts seems to have had a helicoil , glad it didnt break off previously, considering how many times the intercooler came off.

 

I need to figure out which hoses go to the heater core, i’m not sure if the top goes to the top & bottom to the bottom or the other way around. When the clutch was put in we weren’t sure either and went with top to top, but could be wrong.

 

There was also a lot of what look like grease near the rack and pinion. My Powersteering has been working find although there is also a leak around the power steering pump, so that needs to be addressed. This could be the cause of the clicking noise when parking or doing u turns. But i’m pretty sure my passenger side axle is also bad.

 

Was really happy that my pressure plate and flywheel looked well broken in.

 

 

 

 

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[ihatethewalkingdead]

Bro, just wanted to drop in and say its great to see you updating daily, more than once sometimes!

 

hope things go well on the teardown!

[Max Capacity]

If I remember later today, I'll post a photo of the heater hoses. I don't have time now.

 

 

Hope these help, I know there not the best. Do you have the service manual ? http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

In the back of it, there are some flow charts that will have the correct routing. Well I just spent some time looking from page 1614 to the end of the service manual...I couldn't find a good picture of which hose goes where.

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2019 by Max Capacity

[A.n.bastaki]

I appreciate the input, sorry but i can’t really tell from the pictures, i’ll look through the service manual if its posted other than at the back, i’ll be posting on the facebook group about it if i can’t find it in the service manual.

 

Currently taking my time with the tear down, got the exhaust manifold, turbo, and a few hoses off.

 

Shaft play wise, i dont really know what qualifies as shaftplay or not, it does move but doesnt play if that makes sense, and no evidence of the fan hitting the housing, but the amount of oil in the turbo inlet and the turbo is worrying, also the inlet looks like it wasn’t on properly because of the oil seeping through.

 

I’ve also attached a picture of my o2 sensor and the bad wires i previously mentioned, happened when i pulled the motor the first time back in march for the clutch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

 

Calling it for tonight, hoping to get the heads of tomorrow, i was intending to follow guide for the tear down, but kindoff just went at it pulling off a thing at a time, but i’ll be following a guide for the rest.

 

From the people i’ve talked , i’m dreading the cam gear bolts, i know a few that had to drill them out and i don’t want to do that. Its probably wise to pickup company23 tools for the cam gears , avcs gears, and camlocks , but i’m going to go with vicegrips on the timing belt. At the moment that seems like an ok decision, might be regretting it tomorrow.

 

Mad respect to anyone that installs a turbo inlet while the engine is in the car, i wiggled it out with the engine on the stand and it still sucked

 

I’m using a mixture of pictures with snapchat captions/markings , and labeling to be as organized as possible.

 

Ran into a tapped off connector that i’m not sure what its for , but i think i know what it connects too

 

I believe it connects to that since its the only unconnected connector haha.

 

 

 

Got the oil pan off, i dont know if the dipstick tube disconnects or not, but fought it out so we’re all good. No metal shavings in the oil pan and no redflags looking at the engine from there and oil pickup looks good so thats good news i guess. I swore an oath to the subaru gods that i won’t put the engine back without a killer B pickup anyway.

 

And ofcourse, never forget the most important tool when tearing down an engine is kitty litter , see first pic

 

 

 

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

I'd send that turbo off to "JmP6889938 to have him rebuild it. He's fairly close to you

 

PM him.

 

That gray connector with the orange inside is the old EGT connector, that probe was removed from the up pipe in front of the turbo.

 

The taped one is a ??? I wonder if it came from the front side of the manifold ? Pull the tape off and show us the inside.

 

 

May be someone with a OEM style tmic can take a picture of the heater hoses for you.

Edited May 29, 2019 by Max Capacity

[StkmltS]

I love your updates and pictures. The way you're keeping everyone updated makes is easy to help you if/when you have questions.

Reading through your posts kind of makes me want to rebuild another motor (in a sadistic kind of way).

 

Fuel line: My unsolicited advice is to replace all of the hard lines (under the manifold) with new hose. Looking back at my rebuild not doing that is a regret.

 

Turbo: If nothing else, talking to JMP would be a good idea because he's rebuilt 100,000,000 turbos and he's very easy to talk to. He rebuilt mine, and I fully believe that if yours doesn't need rebuilt he'd say so.

 

Heater core: Repeat after me "The service manual is my best friend". You can ask him the same question over, and over, and over, and over, and he won't ever make you feel stupid for not understanding the first time. He's always there when you need help, and he knows everything about the car.

 

Cam sprocket bolts: Start by praying, then lock down the sprockets really good (co23 tool, vice grips, etc), put a good hex bit in the bolt, and gently apply force until you think "this can't possibly be right". The most important thing is to not strip the stupid hex head, as you clearly already understand. Make sure the bit stays in there deep and strait. Don't let it twist out at an angle. Then REPLACE the OEM bolts with FU bolts from TurnInConcepts. I know that $40+ for four bolts sounds insane, but the guaranteed no-headache is worth it.

 

Oil pickup: Moroso makes a good one and it's about half the price of the Killer B.

Edited May 29, 2019 by StkmltS

[rhino6303]

The taped off connector is the pcv diagnosis connector. It doesn't do anything except let you know that the connector is there. There is a metal clip that is plugged in to the connector which is most likely why it is taped.

As max stated, the orange plug is for the egt. Your car most likely has the code disabled since there isn't a plug and resistor connected.

[A.n.bastaki]

I'd send that turbo off to "JmP6889938 to have him rebuild it. He's fairly close to you

 

PM him.

 

 

 

I’ll be PM’ing him as soon as i decide if i want to stick with a vf40 or go with a vf52. Will probably PM either way...

 

The taped off connector is the pcv diagnosis connector. It doesn't do anything except let you know that the connector is there. There is a metal clip that is plugged in to the connector which is most likely why it is taped.

As max stated, the orange plug is for the egt. Your car most likely has the code disabled since there isn't a plug and resistor connected.

 

 

 

That makes alot of sense, the connector is right by the pcv hoses. I’ll remove the tap just to be safe. Does this explain my pcv code? P1491?

 

Come to think of it, i did notice my EGT were fixed and never changed whether its a cold start or after doing a few pulls... I think i had my buddy tune that code out after removing the accessport, surprised it didn’t pop up when the accessport was on it.

 

 

 

I love your updates and pictures. The way you're keeping everyone updated makes is easy to help you if/when you have questions.

Reading through your posts kind of makes me want to rebuild another motor (in a sadistic kind of way).

 

Fuel line: My unsolicited advice is to replace all of the hard lines (under the manifold) with new hose. Looking back at my rebuild not doing that is a regret.

 

Turbo: If nothing else, talking to JMP would be a good idea because he's rebuilt 100,000,000 turbos and he's very easy to talk to. He rebuilt mine, and I fully believe that if yours doesn't need rebuilt he'd say so.

 

Heater core: Repeat after me "The service manual is my best friend". You can ask him the same question over, and over, and over, and over, and he won't ever make you feel stupid for not understanding the first time. He's always there when you need help, and he knows everything about the car.

 

Cam sprocket bolts: Start by praying, then lock down the sprockets really good (co23 tool, vice grips, etc), put a good hex bit in the bolt, and gently apply force until you think "this can't possibly be right". The most important thing is to not strip the stupid hex head, as you clearly already understand. Make sure the bit stays in there deep and strait. Don't let it twist out at an angle. Then REPLACE the OEM bolts with FU bolts from TurnInConcepts. I know that $40+ for four bolts sounds insane, but the guaranteed no-headache is worth it.

 

Oil pickup: Moroso makes a good one and it's about half the price of the Killer B.

 

 

Oh i know what you mean, this is my first time tearing the motor apart, but so far its been a blast.

 

Gonna be revisiting the vacation pics really soon for the heater core & heads disassembly.

 

My buddy that had to drill all 4 bolts out replaced them with the ones you mentioned, between how he nonstop recommends them and your recommendation, i think its a no brainer to grab them.

 

I’ll take a picture later today of my fuel lines, they are already super bad that i want to replace them anyway But wasn’t sure if i should go with oem hard lines, or hoses. Thank u for touching on that and recommending hoses. Ideally I want to redo my fueling with topfeed injectors, but thats a little down the line at this point.

 

I have been a killer b fan boy, but if Moroso is really tried and tested, I don’t think i want to pay killer b’s premium, all things considered.

 

________________

 

 

Currently researching the best way to lockup the flywheel so i can remove the crankpulley, without buying a special tool for it. After that it should be a straight path towards pulling the heads off. Already got rectangular cardboard cutouts to organize & label the cam bolts, and 2 vicegrips ready for the daunting tasking of removing the cam bolts/pulleys.

 

 

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[rhino6303]

Take the tape off the connector only to check that the metal plug is inserted inside. If it's there and inserted all of the way, tape it up again. If it is missing, which it may be if you have a pcv code, insert a paperclip and then tape it up.

[StkmltS]

The 90° end of a flat crowbar (or something similarly wide and strong) works good to keep the flywheel from spinning. A good place to wedge it in is between the flywheel teeth and the top left corner of the block (where the starter goes). It can even be a 1-person job if you can manage to keep the prybar stuck in there just right.

[Max Capacity]

I wonder if there is a way to put a C clamp on the FW so it doesn't rotate once the C clamp hit the block or engine stand.

[rhino6303]

Here is how I keep the engine from rotating:

 

Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Take a 10-12" piece of 1/8" aluminum that is about 1-2" wide. Then drill a hole on one end large enough that the piece can slide over the stud at the back of the engine. Then drill another hole in a location where you can take a bolt from the pressure plate and bolt the aluminum to the flywheel.

[StkmltS]

I wonder if there is a way to put a C clamp on the FW so it doesn't rotate once the C clamp hit the block or engine stand.

 

Here is how I keep the engine from rotating:

 

Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Take a 10-12" piece of 1/8" aluminum that is about 1-2" wide. Then drill a hole on one end large enough that the piece can slide over the stud at the back of the engine. Then drill another hole in a location where you can take a bolt from the pressure plate and bolt the aluminum to the flywheel.

 

What about a breaker bar on one of the FW bolts, with the bar handle resting on one of the engine stand arms? Like a combo of what you two said.

Might not work if the FW bolts are Torx+.

[Max Capacity]

What about a breaker bar on one of the FW bolts, with the bar handle resting on one of the engine stand arms? Like a combo of what you two said.

Might not work if the FW bolts are Torx+.

 

I think I have done that in the past.

If you look at the issue for a few minutes, you should be able to figure something...that's called mechanical ability.

[A.n.bastaki]

I think I have done that in the past.

 

If you look at the issue for a few minutes, you should be able to figure something...that's called mechanical ability.

 

 

 

Sure did

 

 

With the crank pulley off , it was time for the cam gears

 

Used this video - http://

To see which tensions he removed and which he kept and maybe get an idea of the belt&grip setup.

 

Ran into a mean bolt that got stuck spinning, maybe if I sprayed it with PB blaster before hand it wouldn’t have happened, but thats alright, also theres a rusty bolt on the other side that i should replace with a new one.

 

Had a visitor join me for a quick second before i got to the Cam Gears

 

Time for the cam gears.

I think its safe to say that we came to an understanding that these are a pain and i need to be careful.

 

I was really pleased to see i have the right socket for it (H10), bought these a while ago for the wrx’s rear diff i think and never ended up flushing the rear diff..

Gotta have them crocs to prepare for such a difficult job...

 

The good news : got them all off without damaging 1 bolt.

 

The bad news :

1. i hope i didnt mess anything up between the various routings and vicegrip setups and belts jumping.

2. An elbow to the block is not fun.

 

It took a lot of force but thankfully non rounded

Crank pulley for size comparison.

 

 

 

 

 

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[A.n.bastaki]

 

Had to portrait mode the block as i embark on removing the heads, with the cam gears off, this honestly should and was straight forward.

 

Had to take a picture when the valve covers cam off, just to appreciate my valve cover gasket job from march... i suck at telling when enough sealant is enough, and i know less is more, so seeing it was done well made me happy and its much better than the huge amount of sealant i had to remove from the previous owner.

 

Got the cams & bolts all organized and good to go.

 

Took of the buckets, idk if thats what they are called but i think i’ve seen them named that before ,

 

One of them stood out. Not sure if this is normal/fine or not. This whole thread is basically my first time for many things and i don’t readily have a reference for the conditions of parts.

 

The intake cam looked to have scrapped more than the exhaust cam, but as far as i can tell this is normal.

 

Snapchat is great to help organizing and labeling..

 

But ofcourse, nothing beats the FSM , this is actually the first time using it, which later when i took the driver side cams off i realized there might be an order to disassemble the cams..

 

Condition of the pistons, cylinder 1 was wet, cylinder 3 was pretty dry & crusty...

 

 

... and the moment we’ve all be waiting for ..

 

Buddy called it from day one,said ur exhaust valve is probably melted since ur it got that hot in cylinder 1 and melted the plug. (Picture avaliable in post 3?)

 

While writing this i realized cylinder 1 used to be clean when i borescooped it, how did it get soo rough so fast, i didn’t drive that much jn this condition.... hmmm.

And i’m a little concerned about this, but my buddy said the machine should could probably do that for you.

 

 

Started working on the other side, enough though cylinder 2&4 are fine, its only right to clean redeck & lash the other head too...

Unfortunately the alarmclock went off as i loosened the headbolts.. will probably be removing the other head tomorrow.

 

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

Agree the machine shop will fix that ^

 

I will say, the inside of the valve cover looks pretty clean.

 

Good idea on holding the FW with the 3/8 wrench.

 

Thanks for taking the great pictures.

 

Great helper you have there, he has great ears.

Edited May 31, 2019 by Max Capacity

[StkmltS]

Nicely done finding the root cause of your issues.

 

Can you take a close up pic of the odd bucket?

If you gently feel the unusual spot with a pick (or something else with a small round end), does it feel like there's a step there?

Edited May 31, 2019 by StkmltS

[A.n.bastaki]

Nicely done finding the root cause of your issues.

 

Can you take a close up pic of the odd bucket?

If you gently feel the unusual spot with a pick (or something else with a small round end), does it feel like there's a step there?

 

 

 

 

I used my finger to feel it, with my nails, it doesn’t get stuck or feel like its a bump, but its not as smooth and feels rough. But when using just my finger and moving my finger around it, it doesn’t feel any different, theres still some oil on it.

 

 

________

 

Planning to get the other heads of as soon as I get home.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

Have you put a straight edge on it ?

[A.n.bastaki]

Have you put a straight edge on it ?

 

 

 

I have not, what do you mean by a straight edge?

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

A flat surface like the edge of a known true flat measuring tool. https://www.google.com/search?q=steel+scale&oq=steel+scale&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3768j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

A 6 inch steel scale will work. Or the edge of a feeler gauge, say may be a .030" or thicker. Lay it across the top of the bucket and see if you can pass a .0005 feeler gauge under it. Your checking for

"flatness"

[A.n.bastaki]

A flat surface like the edge of a known true flat measuring tool. https://www.google.com/search?q=steel+scale&oq=steel+scale&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3768j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

A 6 inch steel scale will work. Or the edge of a feeler gauge, say may be a .030" or thicker. Lay it across the top of the bucket and see if you can pass a .0005 feeler gauge under it. Your checking for

"flatness"

 

 

 

Ahhh, i don’t have those & never used them, should i try an autoparts store or harbor freight for that?

 

 

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