JmP6889928 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 Make sure ALL of the banjo filters are removed and change the oil several times. Do NOT use Mobil 1! Use Rotella T6 or Amsoil, or Valvoline full synthetic. Use the Subaru or the Roki filters-not some cheap crap. The Subaru blue filters and the black Roki filters have the check valve necessary for the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 We're just trying to help you so that your issues don't start snowballing. These cars can get very costly to fix, but pound for pound if well taken care of they can hang with anything on the road and do it for a long time. I've read through some of your other posts and it's not great. Seems you don't have any engine management going either and your probably not paying attention to the 101 stuff we've all been through. Buy a used version2 Cobb AP. They're $300 and you'll be off the stock map at least. No intakes or BOVs until you have a clue what they do. That's the purpose of this forum, slow down with the car and start reading. Nobody is going to hand you the answers. The education is free, it's all here. Trust us, we've read it all. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 We're just trying to help you so that your issues don't start snowballing. These cars can get very costly to fix, but pound for pound if well taken care of they can hang with anything on the road and do it for a long time. I've read through some of your other posts and it's not great. Seems you don't have any engine management going either and your probably not paying attention to the 101 stuff we've all been through. Buy a used version2 Cobb AP. They're $300 and you'll be off the stock map at least. No intakes or BOVs until you have a clue what they do. That's the purpose of this forum, slow down with the car and start reading. Nobody is going to hand you the answers. The education is free, it's all here. Trust us, we've read it all. Thanks. I hadn't done much to the car. I just bought it 3 months ago. First time Subaru owner. The v2 is it any good? Just looking to get around 320whp all together when done. I know it's going to take some time and money. Just have to save money when I can. I've been reading and researching a lot since I've gotten the car. I don't beat on the car. Too afraid to do that. I have only put on a muffler delete axle back to get that boxer rumble I love. That's it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 The flush seems to have worked and gave it a Lucas treatment. Also cleaned the ocv solenoids. Runs a hell of a lot smoother now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 Don't know if anyone mentioned it, but, check the ground wires from the chassis to the heads. make sure they are in good shape. If not you can make up some with wire and terminal logs. Wire brush the matting surface and then seal the connection after your done. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somac Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 As a fun aside here: My car seemingly out of nowhere lost oil pressure on Friday night, so I shut off the engine and coasted into a parking lot. It was throwing codes P0011 and P0021 for cam advancement. Assuming it was also a banjo bolt or OCV related issue stemming from sludge buildup, I had it towed home and immediately changed the oil. The oil that came out was full of bearing glitter. Started the car up again and it was knocking. Don't treat this issue lightly or you'll be in the YNASB club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 As a fun aside here: My car seemingly out of nowhere lost oil pressure on Friday night, so I shut off the engine and coasted into a parking lot. It was throwing codes P0011 and P0021 for cam advancement. Assuming it was also a banjo bolt or OCV related issue stemming from sludge buildup, I had it towed home and immediately changed the oil. The oil that came out was full of bearing glitter. Started the car up again and it was knocking. Don't treat this issue lightly or you'll be in the YNASB club. That's shitty...luckily I didn't have any glitter in my oil and was an easy fix. I guess it is a hit or miss with this situation and codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 We're just trying to help you so that your issues don't start snowballing. These cars can get very costly to fix, but pound for pound if well taken care of they can hang with anything on the road and do it for a long time. I've read through some of your other posts and it's not great. Seems you don't have any engine management going either and your probably not paying attention to the 101 stuff we've all been through. Buy a used version2 Cobb AP. They're $300 and you'll be off the stock map at least. No intakes or BOVs until you have a clue what they do. That's the purpose of this forum, slow down with the car and start reading. Nobody is going to hand you the answers. The education is free, it's all here. Trust us, we've read it all. FYI: Cobb is no longer supporting the V2 Accessport. You are better off biting the bullet and getting the V3 than buying a V2 on the used market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 FYI: Cobb is no longer supporting the V2 Accessport. You are better off biting the bullet and getting the V3 than buying a V2 on the used market. We" that sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 I have V2's for both my Leggys. More than happy with the results I've gotten from them over the last 9yrs and 150k miles. I fully support protuning, but it isn't necessarily for everyone/beginners in my opinion. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 I have V2's for both my Leggys. More than happy with the results I've gotten from them over the last 9yrs and 150k miles. I fully support protuning, but it isn't necessarily for everyone/beginners in my opinion. Yes but if you now have an issue with your V2's Cobb will tell you to pound sand. They were offering a nice trade in towards a V3....not sure if it is still going on. https://www.cobbtuning.com/v2-accessport-official-end-of-life/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 I had to send my V2 in once for repair in the last 9yrs, I'll take those chances. Might contact Cobb with my other V2 to see if they'll do a once over on it though. Thanks for the heads up. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 Just looking to get around 320whp all together when done. You are on a long and expensive and potentially explosive journey. "Just looking for around 320whp" is a HUGE step up from the stock parameters of about 205whp and it will require a LOT of money and a LOT of knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 Just looking to get around 320whp all together when done. You are on a long and expensive and potentially explosive journey. "Just looking for around 320whp" is a HUGE step up from the stock parameters of about 205whp and it will require a LOT of money and a LOT of knowledge. I realize that. I don't plan on doing it all soon. It's going to take me a few years to do so. It's not my fault driver. So I'm not beating on it and I'm saving up the dough as I go. Just stating my plans for the car. We've got some negative people on this site jeesh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 My wagon made 280whp on a heart breaker Mustang dyno. The car is a blast to drive and reliable. I have over 110,000 miles on the ej257, rebuilt heads, stock fueling. The vf52 has 122,000 miles at 21psi and zero shaft play. Don't get hung up on a HP#. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 My wagon made 280whp on a heart breaker Mustang dyno. The car is a blast to drive and reliable. I have over 110,000 miles on the ej257, rebuilt heads, stock fueling. The vf52 has 122,000 miles at 21psi and zero shaft play. Don't get hung up on a HP#. Just a goal I have for the car. Miss that much HP. I had a 91 dodge Daytona ES with 370whp paid about 10grand all together to get it there and just miss that much HP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 After driving for another 1500 miles and evap codes coming up, the turbo has blown. Paying 2k to get a used turbo with 11000 miles on it and coolant and engine flush, and all new gaskets and hoses replaced on the motor. Hopefully this will keep the car going for another 50kmiles till I buy a beater so I can redo the whole motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 That seems like a lot. I know you can get a nicely rebuilt turbo same as new for around $500-$700, and professional install should be another $500(?). Coolant isn't expensive or hard as long as it's done correctly. Flushing the motor with oil shouldn't be either. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 After driving for another 1500 miles and evap codes coming up, the turbo has blown. Paying 2k to get a used turbo with 11000 miles on it and coolant and engine flush, and all new gaskets and hoses replaced on the motor. Hopefully this will keep the car going for another 50kmiles till I buy a beater so I can redo the whole motor. 50K? 5K would be a miracle. The blown turbo has filled the engine with metal debris, and the engine bearings won't last another thousand miles. As usual, the P0011 was the canary in the coal mine. Truly sorry, man - #YNANSB. Do not throw $2000 at a turbo that won't see the far side of February. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 The parts place wanted $850 for the used oem turbo and the mechanic quoted me for 8.5 hrs of labor plus parts. I was looking online for the turbo. Seen some for $400 - $700 but wasn't sure of the quality. I was kind of stuck considering the car was my only car and daily driver. Need it so I can go to work. Thank god I have a nice boss who is helping me with a loan so I can get the car fixed, or I'd be fucked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Fingers are crossed for you, but I believe you may not be out of the woods yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDDraGoN07SpecB Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Me too. Hope it just last all this summer until I save up enough to get another daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Almost surely you are not getting this car fixed without a new shortblock and new oil cooler. Sorry, these are very expensive cars to fix if they break, especially if you have to pay someone to do the work. In your financial situation you should stop driving this car and look for alternatives. Park it or ditch it, and buy something reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 If you need a daily driver, you're mis-spending your money. You could buy an old Toyota for less than you're spending on this repair that won't last a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 We all want you to have a functioning Legacy again, but the steps to get there are complicated and can be expensive to ensure it's done properly. If debris from the turbo made it into the oil, it's only a matter of time before the motor will be damaged is the experience most people face in your situation. Throwing $2000 at the incorrect problem is our concern for you. We've seen many go down that road and learn the hard way 1k-5k miles later. A used oil analysis could be helpful, but I'd be cautious spending $2000 without seeing what's going on inside the block. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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