Stewdogg's 2010 GT

[moral hazard]

Moral Hazard how does the romraider work? I miss my cruise control and traction control.

 

 

The easiest way to disable that code would be first buy a tactrix 2.0 cable (or borrow one if you know someone local who has it) and find a laptop you can use.

 

 

 

Then download ECU flash along with the definitions:

https://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=36

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic3808.html

 

 

Then when you connect the tactrix 2.0 cable to the laptop, wait for the drivers to install. Open up ECU flash, make sure it knows where you saved the definitions.

 

 

 

Then it's as simple as turning on the ignition, hitting the read ecu button. Scroll down to the bottom of the table list and find the fault code you want turned off, change it so that it remains off. Then hit the test write button with your ECU powered on. If that looks good, hit the flash ecu button and should be all done.

 

 

 

Any subaru tuning shop should be able to do this for very little money.

 

 

I might make a YouTube video for this if there isn't one out there.

 

 

Edit : obviously having a Cobb AP tune will likely mean that the steps above would not suit you. You would likely need to find someone with the Cobb access tuner software to turn your code off. Or email cobb?

Edited March 13, 2019 by moral hazard

[stewdogg]

Bahhh, my heads gonna explode.

 

It all started with finding new fuel injectors and led to this:

I hadn't even thought of the flex fuel option. I did a little searching and noticed a couple people have used it on the 5th gens. How is it holding up and working for those of you who have had it for a while now?

 

It's one of those things that would be better to invest in now, if I'm going to do it anyway because I would have to pay for an extra tune again and that's an extra $600 I could use for tires...

 

I also saw that a couple places other than Cobb make an option for it, but do I have to use the Cobb set up to work with my AP?

 

Man, if you read through this thread it takes me a painful amount of time to come to the conclusion you all knew all along... pay to play and HP/TQ is like crack. I keep adding up the budget and then throwing that crap in the air. Might as well do it right and enjoy it rather than having a little regret that I left something on the table.

[FLlegacy]

The flex fuel kit is made by Cobb so it would make sense to use the Accessport to tune for it IMO. You should probably make a list of things you are doing to keep it all straight and coherent.

 

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[stewdogg]

Here's the pic of that cam, FLlegacy.

I couldn't figure out how to put it in a PM.

 

Edit: This is a pic of the rear right side of the intake cam from a 2011 Sti that I will be putting in my stock heads.

Edited March 17, 2019 by stewdogg

[stewdogg]

So things went as good as I could ask them to go today.

I did find some funky stuff from the last mechanic(s). There was a couple cross threaded studs on the trans and there was a couple wire harnesses that had broken latches and for some stupid freakin reason they put black gasket maker or a sealer of some kind to glue them together. That was a pain to deal with and now I need to get some more pigtails to solder on to make it easier on the next guy.

 

We got the engine out in 6 hours and I got the turbo pulled, so I can ship it off to BNR this week. On schedule so far.

 

Fun fact:

I didn't break any of the 10mm bolts on the exhaust manifold heat shield... top or bottom and they looked real rough. I feel I have never gotten that lucky. The turbo bolts came out nicely as well, although they are beat and I need new ones.

 

The front of the sub frame is rusted, so I'm going to wire wheel it and cover it with paint to try and buy some time.

 

Here's a couple progress pics.

[stewdogg]

Oh yeah, I did notice that this car had another surprise, looks like a junkyard transmission was put in the car with 8,000 miles on it. I suspect that's where the cross threaded studs on the transmission came from.

This car was really through the ringer before I got it.

[foxrider28]

Trans bolts may have not been crossthreaded. I had a simmilar issue with mine. Theres something with those bolts in particular the top ones. A section of threads literally came out of the block and it took a breaker bar with pipe extension to even break them free. I had to use thread savers and new bolts putting it back together.... Wasn't happy about it at all but had no choice. Of course a 2nd hand trans could of lead to cross threads but just thought I'd share my. I concluded theres a heat issue on the top passenger side because thats where my most problematic bolt was.

[stewdogg]

Trans bolts may have not been crossthreaded. I had a simmilar issue with mine. Theres something with those bolts in particular the top ones. A section of threads literally came out of the block and it took a breaker bar with pipe extension to even break them free. I had to use thread savers and new bolts putting it back together.... Wasn't happy about it at all but had no choice. Of course a 2nd hand trans could of lead to cross threads but just thought I'd share my. I concluded theres a heat issue on the top passenger side because thats where my most problematic bolt was.

 

 

 

 

That sucks! I'm sure the aluminum didn't help your situation at all either. That stuff really likes to corrode and mess stuff up. Those thread savers are a huge help (if you have the room) and much better than using a die set (in my opinion).

What did you have yours out for?

 

Mine was nuts on the two studs on the bottom of the trans and they most definitely were cross threaded. They were brutal all the way off and you could see the mushed threads on the stud itself.

[moral hazard]

I had the same issue with my bellhousing bolts. One of them broke in half when trying to get it out.

[stewdogg]

Broken bolts make the job so much worse. I was very lucky that I didn't run into any.

 

 

I just ordered a Primitive skid plate... finally.

[stewdogg]

I just talked to BNR on the phone and asked which turbo to use for flex fuel applications (18G or HTA68) and he said to use the HTA68, but that has been discontinued and he would then use a HTA71. He said it should spool just fine on gas and handle the 25-29lbs of boost with E85. It is still the extra couple hundred bucks over the 18G.

 

I will be pulling lines, cleaning and shipping my turbo out this week.

[foxrider28]

That sucks! I'm sure the aluminum didn't help your situation at all either. That stuff really likes to corrode and mess stuff up. Those thread savers are a huge help (if you have the room) and much better than using a die set (in my opinion).

 

What did you have yours out for?

 

 

 

Mine was nuts on the two studs on the bottom of the trans and they most definitely were cross threaded. They were brutal all the way off and you could see the mushed threads on the stud itself.

Yeah those lower studs were the easiest part for me . My problem bolts were the top starter bolt and the top passenger side bolt the others weren't too bad.

I did the clutch, timing belt kit, and a few other maintenance items @ ~120k... I know it was overdue on the TB but I don't drive my car hard so I wasn't too worried. Ultimately it was the clutch failing that forced me to do the work. The stock clutch would of been fine and probably lasted 150k+ but the fork failed causing all other items attached to fail almost had to get a new flywheel luckilythe machine shop saved it but will not be resuable next round. The fork had completely punched through the pivot ball and the clutch pedal was like a 1965 pickup (hard as a rock). So if you gpt the money be sure to upgrade to the newer aftermarket fork kit, I was pissed because it was released like 2 weeks after I had everything back together.

Theres a post somewhere on here with a pic of my fork I still have it laying around somewhere although it is nothing but scrap metal.

[stewdogg]

That sucks about your clutch fork taking stuff out! I'll look for your thread, it would be interesting to see. I will be replacing mine with the upgraded fork and pivot, I've read too many horror stories about it around here.

 

I got the turbo cleaned up, all the lines, studs and oil tank removed. It's packed up and ready to head out tomorrow for the spa treatment at BNR.

[stewdogg]

What's the go to or reliable stage 2 clutch for the LGT?

I think I'm going to have issues quickly if I don't address it now. Looks like I'm going all in much earlier than I thought I would have to with this car.

 

Upgrades before the engine failure:

GVB BPV

EBCS

Cobb AP

 

New upgrades with rebuild:

Quantum Performance Stage 2 block

Upgraded HTA71 turbo

2011 Sti cams

One step up valve springs - sticking with stock valves (not going 1mm over) to save a little cash on machining.

ID1050X injectors

Cobb Flex fuel

Invidia down pipe with high flow cat

ARP head studs

11mm STi oil pump

 

I will need to find a solution to my intercooler before I'm finished with the 1,000 mile break in as well. I imagine it wont last long with the higher boost levels.

[FLlegacy]

Southbend stage 2 daily is a good choice or exedy.

 

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[stewdogg]

I did a little searching last night and it seems that is the popular one.

 

I looked up the part number FJK1001-HD-O and I found SD-FJK1001-HD-O on THMotorsports, I don't know the difference with the SD in front. I can't find anything on the Southbend website with the SD in the part number.

 

I'll call Southbend or THMorotsprots today to get to the bottom of it.

 

Edit: The "SD" is only the friction plate.

Edited March 19, 2019 by stewdogg

[foxrider28]

Yes definitely get the upgraded fork kit. They now how a forged version and the billet version.

Link to verus site is in this thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5834534

Just FYI my post about the failure is in one of the old WDYD threads. But it has since been archived. Here is the post with pics of the clutch fork to save you sone time. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5676613

As for your clutch, the SB stg2 is the way to go. I used to install SB clutches only in the diesel truck shop I worked in years ago and the owner still only stocks SB kits today 10 years later.

[stewdogg]

Thanks for the link foxrider28! That looks nasty with that pivot ball breaking through that fork!

Did you use the stock throw out bearing with the Southbend clutch or use the TSK3 kit?

 

 

I got the heads torn down on my engine today. The Sti cams look good and drop right in. I will take side by side pics when I go back to put it back together.

 

 

I picked up some cam tools and the intake cam tool fit fine, but the exhaust cam tool was listed for a 5th gen, but I assume was actually for a 4th gen. We ended up holding the exhaust cam with some large channel locks and it worked great... much cheaper too.

 

The heads go off to the machine shop Monday.

Edited March 24, 2019 by stewdogg

[stewdogg]

I found more interesting garbage from the last "mechanic"... it seems he/she couldn't figure out what to do after stripping the threads for the timing belt adjuster, so they took out the slip bushing/sleeve and rammed a sweet and huge Home Depot coarse threaded bolt through the adjuster instead. The bolt was in so far that it indented in the block behind it.

There was an awesome custom made brass washer they threw in for the hell of it too.

[dgoodhue]

I found more interesting garbage from the last "mechanic"... it seems he/she couldn't figure out what to do after stripping the threads for the timing belt adjuster, so they took out the slip bushing/sleeve and rammed a sweet and huge Home Depot coarse threaded bolt through the adjuster instead. The bolt was in so far that it indented in the block behind it.

There was an awesome custom made brass washer they threw in for the hell of it too.

 

WTF?

[stewdogg]

WTF right? The bolt wasn't in straight either (not that I would expect any less at this point) and was a battle with a breaker bar to get it out that far. I'm glad I found these issues the way I did and not after the timing belt messed up again and took out my valves or something expensive.

This is the exact kind of thing that makes me not trust anyone else's automotive work.

 

I did find that the #4 cyl was my issue and the wrist pin was really bad. Lots of play and noise when shaking the crank back and fourth. You could feel/see the movement in the piston... the pin is toast.

Edited March 24, 2019 by stewdogg

[stewdogg]

What the easiest fitting (least amount of cutting) FMIC for the 5th gen? I imagine that is a better idea over running a TMIC with corn...?

 

Is there a timing belt kit for our cars or is it only OEM? I have seen only a couple kits, but they are from brands I'm not familiar with.

 

Does anyone make an engine seal kit or is that just a dealer option as well?

[FLlegacy]

What the easiest fitting (least amount of cutting) FMIC for the 5th gen? I imagine that is a better idea over running a TMIC with corn...?

 

Is there a timing belt kit for our cars or is it only OEM? I have seen only a couple kits, but they are from brands I'm not familiar with.

 

Does anyone make an engine seal kit or is that just a dealer option as well?

Fmic for an 08 to 14 sti will work and should be minimal cutting. Check Fabsx and I think a couple others did the fmic with good results. Gaskit kits are available from a few manufacturers, I like felpro personally. OEM is good to, I would find the part number and search for a better price than the dealer.

 

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[Sarang]

What the easiest fitting (least amount of cutting) FMIC for the 5th gen? I imagine that is a better idea over running a TMIC with corn...?

 

Would you consider something like this?

http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-intercooler/water-to-air-intercooler-p-1006.html

 

You'd have to deal with mounting, but I bet the type 101 heat exchanger would fit nicely between the crash bar and the bottom frame. I wonder sometimes of that's what I should have done instead of my FMIC, but I'm not willing to shell out the time, effort, and money to switch to an AWIC.

[stewdogg]

Would you consider something like this?

http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-intercooler/water-to-air-intercooler-p-1006.html

 

You'd have to deal with mounting, but I bet the type 101 heat exchanger would fit nicely between the crash bar and the bottom frame. I wonder sometimes of that's what I should have done instead of my FMIC, but I'm not willing to shell out the time, effort, and money to switch to an AWIC.

 

Have you done much research on this?

Would it just require a water style intercooler and a way to pump and cool the water to the intercooler?

Did you by any chance price this out against the FMIC?

 

I am intrigued for sure.