Stewdogg's 2010 GT

[FLlegacy]

You have to get it tuned, the AP is just an interface it doesn't really "do" anything. The aftermarket EBCS has higher duty cycle and can control the boost better, but it needs programming in the tune to get it done.

 

The BPV as long as its recirculating is fine with the stock tune. Also if you can swing it you might just get it tuned now and be happy for the next year or longer. I personally don't feel the need for more power just yet, I think I have plenty to break parts with as is. So far, I have a Turbosmart BPV and Grimmspeed ebcs along with the Nameless DP on my custom tune I am pushing 19-20 psi and it feels fantastic.

Edited August 21, 2018 by FLlegacy

[stewdogg]

I will just stick with my plan, put these parts in and get a stage 1 etune.

I agree, I might just be happy there and not need to go to stage 2, but who's ever happy for too long with these things. I don't need to break things too often from the upgraded power because it will be my daily still, but who can resist more fun?

 

The only thing missing from my set up to yours is the down pipe. I guess I forget from reading that crazy long Nameless DP thread, if you had to port your turbo or not. I don't think you did, if I remember correctly. I think I would need to port my turbo due to the climate I live in and that down pipe looks like it will be quite the challenge to remove with the rust belt miles it has on it. Playing it safe and sticking with the stage 1 seems like a good choice at this point in the season for me.

 

Thanks for the info!

[dgoodhue]

When I add the BPV, my mid rpm boost increased another PSI.

 

I added the EBC solenoid on the day before my tune. I would get it tuned for the EBCS.

 

The logic for boost control solenoid is different then stock. The factory boost solenoid has 2 ports, a pressure release port and a port that connects both the boost signal (from the turbo) and wastegate actuator signal. It bleeds off the pressure from the boost/wastegate actuator signal when the solenoid is open. The three port has a pressure release with separate boost signal port and wastegate actuator signal ports. When the solenoid is open it can completely release all the wastegate actuator signal pressure.

[FLlegacy]

I will just stick with my plan, put these parts in and get a stage 1 etune.

I agree, I might just be happy there and not need to go to stage 2, but who's ever happy for too long with these things. I don't need to break things too often from the upgraded power because it will be my daily still, but who can resist more fun?

 

The only thing missing from my set up to yours is the down pipe. I guess I forget from reading that crazy long Nameless DP thread, if you had to port your turbo or not. I don't think you did, if I remember correctly. I think I would need to port my turbo due to the climate I live in and that down pipe looks like it will be quite the challenge to remove with the rust belt miles it has on it. Playing it safe and sticking with the stage 1 seems like a good choice at this point in the season for me.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

If you are paying for a tune anyway put the parts on and get it tuned you will be much farther ahead than if you wait. Most tuners charge significantly less for a revision. And no I didn't port my turbo, but I did retain the stock cat back which may be more helpful than porting the turbo, I really can't say.

 

To echo what dgoodhue says the boost was much more consistent with the bpv and there was a significant improvement in lag from a dig.

[stewdogg]

Thanks guys!

 

That was the plan FLlegacy, I was going to install the parts and then get the tune. I was just going off of what cww516 said about the Cobb AP possibly being able to take care of the EBCS, but I was thinking, from what I read that it would need an aftermarket tune when the EBCS was installed. Thanks for confirming guys!

 

That's where I want the power a little more consistent too, from the dig. I'm not doing any roll racing, I may or may not be too old for that poop.

[Sarang]

Ebcs requires a tune. I believe you'll over boost if you're not tired for it.

 

EDIT: Wow I'm slow I guess... y'all beat me to it.

Edited August 21, 2018 by Sarang

[cww516]

Oops, sorry- I was saying that installing the EBCS for a stage 1 tune vs. saving it for stage 2 would be something you could ask your tuner about, not that the off-the-shelf tune would compensate for it. Seems like collectively, we got to the right answer, though- all's well that ends well!

[stewdogg]

No worries cww516, it's all just conversation and me asking questions that have been answered a million times.

 

Here are some pics with the new wheel color and a pretty clean car.

I really like the burnt copper color the more I look at it. What do you guys think?

[FLlegacy]

The color goes well with the black, I would suggest looking into adding some subtle accents the same color to tie it all together, maybe badge overlays in the copper color, I was thinking the chrome accents around the window but I am not sure about that.

[stewdogg]

Thanks FLlegacy! I have lived with the color a while and I still like it a lot, so I ordered another can of copper and I will see what else I can cover tastefully. I wonder if it would look decent with the roof strips painted...? Now, I gotta go and find how to remove them.

 

I also got my Grimmspeed EBCS installed last night (installed the GFB BPV last week) and a stage 1 tune loaded up. There aren't a ton of options for mounting that boost controller, but I got it done. I may go back to change the mount and replace the hoses from the wastegate and turbo because the ones with the EBCS are a little small, but I will see how it works the way it sits.

 

I did have a little trouble with the hose between the BPV and air intake pipe for the turbo. I am now thinking that the previous owner that had the car apart flipped the hose upside down... ? It just didn't seem to pull down all the way on the lower air intake pipe. I'm going to try and flip it and see if it make a difference.

 

On to the fun part, driving.

I didn't get a chance to test drive and log because I got it finished late last night and just drove home. I need to get my normal driving logs tonight and send them off to the tuner. The first wave tune is like a heavy turd compared to the stock Cobb 91 tune. I know it's just to see if everything is cool before moving forward to WOT pulls.

 

Thanks for the help and enabling to get me to this point!!

[FLlegacy]

It may just be the way the GFB valve sits, I had a little trouble getting the Turbosmart one on as well. As for the EBCS I used the hole in the radiator support to bolt the controller to. It was a pain getting the bolt started but I though it would work out better than makeing a new hole, thats been a while and I haven't even thought about it since.

[copyboy311]

I just saw this thread, and it stood out that you're in Madison. I'm in Waukesha, and in the four years I've owned my Legacy (not a GT, but a 6-speed anyway), I've never seen a GT on the roads anywhere, not even on a recent 2200 mile road trip (and most I've seen are automatics). The GT is a rare beast, as we know. Nice car.

[stewdogg]

It may just be the way the GFB valve sits, I had a little trouble getting the Turbosmart one on as well. As for the EBCS I used the hole in the radiator support to bolt the controller to. It was a pain getting the bolt started but I though it would work out better than makeing a new hole, thats been a while and I haven't even thought about it since.

 

Thanks FLlegacy! That is pretty much the same place I put my EBCS too.

Thanks for the confirmation on the fit of the BPV hose too! I really appreciate the help!

 

I just saw this thread, and it stood out that you're in Madison. I'm in Waukesha, and in the four years I've owned my Legacy (not a GT, but a 6-speed anyway), I've never seen a GT on the roads anywhere, not even on a recent 2200 mile road trip (and most I've seen are automatics). The GT is a rare beast, as we know. Nice car.

 

Thanks copyboy!

Well, you might see mine in Waukesha sometime. That is where my mom lives... I guess she is just outside of Waukesha, but I sometimes run into town and grab some chicken at the Chicken Palace. That place is awesome and some of the best chicken I have had.

I picked mine up close to Deerfield and was looking for a WRX/STi at the time, but am very happy I found this unique beast!

Do you have a build or pics of your Legacy here somewhere?

[stewdogg]

So, I have some internal engine failure and I'm forced to retire this stock engine...

I'm looking at getting a long block and picking up a new (used if I could find it) BNR 18g.

https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/2010-2014-subaru-legacy-gt-turbocharger-upgrades/

 

Is BNR the place to get a turbo from at the current time? It looks like they port the wastegate too? I imagine I would be better off with the BNR turbo over porting a stock turbo myself...?

[Shadow_419]

Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. What exactly happened and have you thought about just going short block vs long block?

 

I used BNR for a stock turbo refresh and wastegate port. Fair price and pretty quick turnaround. New chra, wastegate actuator, and cleaned up and painted exhaust side on my stock turbo.

[islandborn]

So, I have some internal engine failure and I'm forced to retire this stock engine...

I'm looking at getting a long block and picking up a new (used if I could find it) BNR 18g.

https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/2010-2014-subaru-legacy-gt-turbocharger-upgrades/

 

Is BNR the place to get a turbo from at the current time? It looks like they port the wastegate too? I imagine I would be better off with the BNR turbo over porting a stock turbo myself...?

 

You will need to send in your stocker - they create the 18g out of it. And yes, they can port it too. Most of us on here that have gone to a bigger turbo runs a BNR. Great work, solid price, and very helpful if you need to call. There is a Tomioka 20g one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomioka-Racing-VF54-Turbo-for-2010-Subaru-Legacy-GT/112435052257?epid=13002507579&hash=item1a2da6bee1:g:5DUAAOSwstJZOJPg:rk:2:pf:0

and I think a couple have used it - I can't speak on quality as I don't know much about it. I'm on my third BNR turbo so I'm a bit biased

[stewdogg]

Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. What exactly happened and have you thought about just going short block vs long block?

 

I used BNR for a stock turbo refresh and wastegate port. Fair price and pretty quick turnaround. New chra, wastegate actuator, and cleaned up and painted exhaust side on my stock turbo.

 

Thanks Shadow! I have narrowed it down to having a bad wrist pin.

I have also thought about going short vs long block. I don't have the time or money right now for the short block build. I would rather build it, but it's my daily. I will use some of the money on a J pipe and new/refreshed turbo.

What was the turn around time on your turbo build? I was gong to try and get it all together and then install it in a long weekend...

 

 

You will need to send in your stocker - they create the 18g out of it. And yes, they can port it too. Most of us on here that have gone to a bigger turbo runs a BNR. Great work, solid price, and very helpful if you need to call. There is a Tomioka 20g one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomioka-Racing-VF54-Turbo-for-2010-Subaru-Legacy-GT/112435052257?epid=13002507579&hash=item1a2da6bee1:g:5DUAAOSwstJZOJPg:rk:2:pf:0

and I think a couple have used it - I can't speak on quality as I don't know much about it. I'm on my third BNR turbo so I'm a bit biased

 

Thanks for the heads up islandborn! Hmm, I thought that I was getting a new turbo (also thought it was a great price). It makes sense that they need your core.

I did a little light reading and came across jackal8788's thread of his 18g to 20g saga. This made me think that the 18g is where I should be at because this will be a mild build and I don't plan on doing cams or any other large upgrades... at the moment anyway. The 18g sounded like a better in town ripper option.

Do you have any other reading for me, to help me decide on what turbo I should put in my LGT?

 

I wonder if there's a chance that someone has a stocker laying around that they would want to trade, so I could get the work done on the turbo before I take things apart?

 

You're on your third BNR... different cars or are you hard on your things?

 

I really wish I wasn't doing this 6 months after getting the car, but I know the risks of buying a car let alone a used turbo version... just a bummer is all.

[islandborn]

 

 

Thanks for the heads up islandborn! Hmm, I thought that I was getting a new turbo (also thought it was a great price). It makes sense that they need your core.

I did a little light reading and came across jackal8788's thread of his 18g to 20g saga. This made me think that the 18g is where I should be at because this will be a mild build and I don't plan on doing cams or any other large upgrades... at the moment anyway. The 18g sounded like a better in town ripper option.

Do you have any other reading for me, to help me decide on what turbo I should put in my LGT?

 

I wonder if there's a chance that someone has a stocker laying around that they would want to trade, so I could get the work done on the turbo before I take things apart?

 

You're on your third BNR... different cars or are you hard on your things?

 

I really wish I wasn't doing this 6 months after getting the car, but I know the risks of buying a car let alone a used turbo version... just a bummer is all.

 

Here's a bit of good reading on the 18g vs 20g:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gauging-interest-external-wastegate-header-242051.html?p=5228232#post5228232

 

Options - pull yours, send it to BNR - cheaper method, but does put your car out of commission. OR, buy a used stocker, send to BNR, sell the original later. Other idea (one I did) - buy a new turbo - send to BNR - swap out new sexy one and then sell your old stocker. this will cost you about 3-4 hundred bucks more - but, no downtime and your turbo is brand new!

 

On my third - pay to play and curiosity really. I first went with the BNR 18g - didn't watch oil levels and other dumb decisions so had to have a rebuild. With the rebuild I moved to trying a Steamspeed 20g. Lots of comparing. Finally that engine started to collapse based on a poor build quality after about 100k miles. Now, since I was going to start from square one - with all the knowledge built up on this forum - I had a full engine custom built and decided around a new BNR 18g again. Thats it in a nut shell.

[islandborn]

Stu is rebuilding his... he bought my 20g.... he might have his stocker....?

[Shadow_419]

The rebuild of my stocker was about a 10 days door to door but this was around Thanksgiving. Might be a little quicker without the holiday

[dgoodhue]

I have also thought about going short vs long block. I don't have the time or money right now for the short block build. I would rather build it, but it's my daily. I will use some of the money on a J pipe and new/refreshed turbo.

 

Short block is a block and pistons, rods, crank. A long block includes the heads, cams, valve covers, oil pan, etc (and sometimes the intake). It is often hard to find an used 5th Gen long block for sale. A new OEM long block would be pretty pricy, I imagine.

[FLlegacy]

Short block is a block and pistons, rods, crank. A long block includes the heads, cams, valve covers, oil pan, etc (and sometimes the intake). It is often hard to find an used 5th Gen long block for sale. A new OEM long block would be pretty pricy, I imagine.

Last I checked it was like $2k for a stock OEM short block and around $1k for the block halves by themselves.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[stewdogg]

So, the ole girl pooped the bed last Friday night on the way home from work...

It had been starting to idle real low upon clutch in and then finally dying on clutch in. I think the wrist pin got loose enough to cause drag on the piston. It's not locked up yet, but isn't drivewble anymore. It was getting way too hard to stay out of boost anyway.

It was on a really cold night and people seemed to want to honk and flip me off instead of helping, while I pushed my car by myself down a busy 3 lane road.

I've only had it for 9 months too...

 

Now I'm looking for a beater with a heater to get through the winter and gather my parts for the mild build.

 

I started a thread on building an engine on a budget, but will just continue the conversation here.

Here is said thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/would-you-spend-moneyi-277451.html

 

I like the idea of a 2019 sti shortblock and then adding the sti cams and upgraded head studs. Maybe it would save a couple bucks here to spend there...?

 

Anyone direct me to a thread that list parts needed to do this kind of swap?

 

What's the difference between the 2019 sti shorty and the IAG built stage 2 shorty?

[FLlegacy]

You can't buy a 2019 STI block yet at least from what I have found trying to get a PN, unless you know someone at the dealer parts department. My guess is they are all in Japan and would need some time to get sent over here. You are better off to buy either an AIG block or buy the 5th gen LGT case halves and build it up yourself with forged internals. I am swaying between that option and having a local shop build me one.

[stewdogg]

Thanks Man!

That was my next step, to call the parts guy tomorrow and find a couple things out.

 

I guess that would make me lean back towards the IAG build. You know of a good place to get the Sti cams from? Do I just go with any 2008+ Sti cams?

 

FLlegacy, this is the list I got from you in the other thread, I'm going to look up prices tomorrow. Anything else to add to the list?

Edit, I added to the list:)

ARP studs - $200

STI cams - $165

Sti valve spring kit - $250

Sti valves +1mm - $80

STI oil pump - $150

Felpro Gasket set - ~$200

oem timing belt set - $300

Stock Legacy GT water pump - $100

IAG stage 2 with the seal kit - $3306

BNR 18g turbo - $950

Fuel injectors -

Machining work...?

 

Stuff I want to add not counted in the rebuild price.:

Invidia down pipe - $600

Bigger front sway bar (while I have the engine out) - $100

Edited February 23, 2019 by stewdogg