gathermewool Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) From center to center: 3 5/8” apart Hole: 1/4” by a little less than 1/4”. Hmmm What will you use the OEM tweeters for? I’m not sure how much shipping will be, but how about $15 shipped? I’d give them to you if you were nearby. Edited March 27, 2020 by gathermewool '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Just washed car,but I notice my front p/s window bounces back halfway down either when using d/s or p/s buttons,also already did the reset procedure but it still does same thing and no obstruction also.anyone experienced this before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 If it’s going down half way without being rigid it might be your switch on the ps ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 If it’s going down half way without being rigid it might be your switch on the ps I was thinking might be a failing safety sensor? ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 Ohh so ur saying when it goes all the way up it goes back down half way? If that’s the case U might be right. I’d try re sitting the seal in the channel. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 Ohh so ur saying when it goes all the way up it goes back down half way? If that’s the case U might be right. I’d try re sitting the seal in the channel. Yes window goes all the way up and it would just come down halfway as if something is obstructing it. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 Never heard of that before. Let us know when you figure out what the solution is. // I replaced the PCV valve on my '15 FB25 today @ ~55k. It was full of oil and the internal weren't moving very much, so I got a new one from my local Subie dealership. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrien917 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 (edited) BC Coilovers maxxed out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 30, 2020 by darrien917 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrien917 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 BC Coilovers maxxed out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Custom made headlights too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iyalla Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Just washed car,but I notice my front p/s window bounces back halfway down either when using d/s or p/s buttons,also already did the reset procedure but it still does same thing and no obstruction also.anyone experienced this before? OMG this just happened to me yesterday. What a coincidence! No obstruction. I had to do the reset procedure 3 times before it fixed itself. And being a tech guy I hate things that fix themselves lol Symptom: The window would go all the way to the top then immediately come down and stop half way. Window can come all the way down or can be brought up manually, but the second the window touches the top limit it comes down and stops half way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 OMG this just happened to me yesterday. What a coincidence! No obstruction. I had to do the reset procedure 3 times before it fixed itself. And being a tech guy I hate things that fix themselves lol Symptom: The window would go all the way to the top then immediately come down and stop half way. Window can come all the way down or can be brought up manually, but the second the window touches the top limit it comes down and stops half way. That’s exactly what my car window is doing,I did the reset procedure but didn’t work,so what I did was when the window was halfway down I pushed the glass from inside towards out and it’s been working fine for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougKelly20 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 OMG this just happened to me yesterday. What a coincidence! No obstruction. I had to do the reset procedure 3 times before it fixed itself. And being a tech guy I hate things that fix themselves lol Symptom: The window would go all the way to the top then immediately come down and stop half way. Window can come all the way down or can be brought up manually, but the second the window touches the top limit it comes down and stops half way.When this happened to me I played with the channel and tried to line it up better. It didn't look like I made much of a difference but apparently I did because it fixed the issue. It was acting as if it was obstructed because the channel was slightly off. Mine was right at the front of the window on the passenger side closest to the small triangle window in the A pillar. I tried this because I was seeing the same symptoms and the relearn didn't help me either. Luckily a small adjustment to the stripping in the channel did. I haven't had an issue since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Trying to wire up LOC but I’m confused which side to cut from for the front speakers I don’t know which side to cut from,should I cut from the white or gray connector?can someone help please!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iyalla Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 How about buying a break out harness to make it clean? http://ae64.com/10-6-pincombinedharness.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 your in luck cuz I just did this a few weeks ago. It was tough to figure out so i purchased a harness from a local shop so it would be easy to figure out what is what so heres a pic of the harness and ill tell u the colors on it to what they are then you just follow the pins to see what stock is. purple right rear + purple w stripe right rear - Green Left Rear + Green w stripe Left Rear - Gray Right Front + Gray w stripe Right Front - White Left Front + White Left Front - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 i just dug this up its what crutchfield sends to you if you plan to not buy a harness. theres just so many colors which is why it wasnt enough for me and why i got the adapter to make it easy. Then when done I just unplugged it and kept it aside glad I was able to use it again to help someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Thanks guys appreciate it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Does your LOC have auto signal on? I choose that route with mine as well as my amps. Funny thing I notice with this setup sound doesn’t kick on for a few sec or so. There’s also a bit of a pop when first turning on the car so I ensure my volume is turned way down b4 I shut off the car. Still in the tuning stage so who knows once I find the sweet spot between my converter gain, amps, and head unit it might go away. So far with mine I have it set to give 86db at 41 volume on the stock head unit. When I had it set at 30 for volume I had a lot of extra noise. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Does your LOC have auto signal on? I choose that route with mine as well as my amps. Funny thing I notice with this setup sound doesn’t kick on for a few sec or so. There’s also a bit of a pop when first turning on the car so I ensure my volume is turned way down b4 I shut off the car. Still in the tuning stage so who knows once I find the sweet spot between my converter gain, amps, and head unit it might go away. So far with mine I have it set to give 86db at 41 volume on the stock head unit. When I had it set at 30 for volume I had a lot of extra noise. This the LOC that I have hopefully no issues with it,I’m still thinking what Amp/subs going to get,can’t make up my mind:/ https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46219_NVX-XPLOC4.html ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 I went with this one it has Front Rear and Sub out that it converts on its own instead of using rca y cables. It also has auto on as I said before as well as ability to send REM out even without rem in. This was key for me in my setup as my capacitor needs a REM. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/?coliid=I1M0VT7KS7FRE6&colid=3EUJA12TS0SYU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it If anything pick out your subs first making it easy to choose an amp that works well with it. What subs have you considered? Where are you mounting the LOC? you will most likely have to mess with the gain control during tuning so hiding it behind the headunit might not be the best option. I have mine in my arm rest which made it real easy to run the rca back under the carpet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 I went with this one it has Front Rear and Sub out that it converts on its own instead of using rca y cables. It also has auto on as I said before as well as ability to send REM out even without rem in. This was key for me in my setup as my capacitor needs a REM. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/?coliid=I1M0VT7KS7FRE6&colid=3EUJA12TS0SYU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it If anything pick out your subs first making it easy to choose an amp that works well with it. What subs have you considered? Where are you mounting the LOC? you will most likely have to mess with the gain control during tuning so hiding it behind the headunit might not be the best option. I have mine in my arm rest which made it real easy to run the rca back under the carpet. I’m thinking just maybe going with 3-4 6.5”s subs from skar audio or their 3x 10s subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Sounds like it’s gonna bump ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Was looking for something in my tool drawers and found these still new!i didn’t even know I had it.i I guess I’ll install it when I receive my subs and amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Can’t wait to see the box u design for all of this ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Can’t wait to see the box u design for all of this I actually just ordered everything from Skars 2 10” subs 1200watts/600RMS each,got the dual ported box, Skar Audio RP-1200.1D Monoblock Amplifier 1-ohm Stable Car Subwoofer Amplifier Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier 4 Way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 800 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 500 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 1,200 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Peak Power at 1 Ohm: 1,600 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now