07 LGT Wagon

[Sboarderk03]

 

Another Koni w/ H&R springs pic on 18" rims. I may have hit bump stops once or twice on a very large pothole (and I live in Mass) but the ride is very comfortable and def not a 1.5 - 2.0" drop. Maybe about 1" up front give or take. I'm on Swifts now since I wanted to be lower and they are absolutely harsher than H&R but I was willing to give up a little more comfort for the ride height and my driving style

[crisjp3]

Update: A member on the forums has sold me his Koni Yellow's with H&R springs, new front top hats and 3/4 inch spacers for a very good price.

 

Now I'm going for the 20mm whiteline rear sway bar and Moog front/rear endlinks. Perhaps a couple of bushings here and there. Any reason why Moog endlinks instead of Perrin or Whiteline?

[MilesA]

There's nothing really wrong with the boutique endlinks, but the Moog ones seem like a better deal. The Moogs are strong, plus they have rubber and metal ball joints and grease fittings.

[magnusonsubie]

Good choice on the Koni's and H&R's I had those on my wagon for awhile and loved it and even drove around the Bay Area with them and it was quite comfortable. Like Sboarderk03 I switched up my suspension for aesthetic reasons.

 

As far as end links go the spherical bushings on the Whiteline and Perrin ones aren't going to have the same life that that Moog ones have especially because you can grease the Moog ones easily.

[relative4]

Like Relative4 I switched up my suspension for aesthetic reasons.

 

Eh?

News to me.

[magnusonsubie]

Eh?

News to me.

 

Lol I saw silver wagons and got you confused with Sboarderk03

[Dishwasher]

I just put Konis and H&Rs on my 06 sedan and I love it. Last night I took the 8 month pregnant wife around and she also said it felt nice and smooth even over some pretty rough pavement. If that's not a testament to their comfort I don't know what is.

[MilesA]

OP, if you get the Moog end links, remember you should grease them up at install time. Easy to do, but you will need a grease gun and something decent such as Valvoline synthetic bearing grease. Repeat every six months or so, at oil change time.

[Dishwasher]

OP, if you get the Moog end links, remember you should grease them up at install time. Easy to do, but you will need a grease gun and something decent such as Valvoline synthetic bearing grease. Repeat every six months or so, at oil change time.

 

Do it after you install though. Don't try greasing them and then installing, it'll get messy fast. Ask me how I know lol

[Sboarderk03]

Lol I saw silver wagons and got you confused with Sboarderk03

 

Hah just saw this magnus. I guess the majority of these wagons and possibly sedans seem to be bsm so a mix up makes sense. Once my wagon gets its jdm front and rear it should stand out. OP I used moog endlinks before I switched to avo solids. They were quite beefier than oem and I was very pleased with price and quality so a good choice on a budget or even all around.

[crisjp3]

Sboarderk - Why did you switch to the AVO solids?

 

Dishwasher - What about the handling? Is it significantly better?

[Dishwasher]

Dishwasher - What about the handling? Is it significantly better?

 

Yes the handling is night and day better. The change was drastic. Cornering is far more flat, acceleration and braking are flat. Mid corner bumps are controlled, and I feel far more confident. The car used to skip out a bit if I hit a bump in a corner, it was hard to control and a bit scary. This setup has eliminated that effect. It's confidence inspiring.

 

Braking is far more effective. I imagine it's because my rear wheels are now getting more traction due to the reduction in weight transfer to the front. Brakes on the Legacy GT are pretty good, but it was easy to overwhelm the front end, (slam on the brakes at 80mph and try to maintain control, your rear end will have almost no weight over it, and therefore no traction). Now braking feels far more stable. For the first time since I bought this car 5 years ago do I feel confident in its handling. Shifting is even better, although I have a hard time explaining why (less pitching front to back is all I can think of).

 

I will say that H&R advertises a 1.3" front, 1.4" rear drop. I'd say I have a 2 finger gap between my 225/45/17 +38 offset and the fender/quarter panels all around. The drop does not appear to be as significant as advertised. I'm totally OK with it, but if you're wanting stance nation type drop then you probably need to look elsewhere. I don't have any rubbing issues or anything like that.

 

When I was young I had a slammed civic on cheapo B&R coil-overs. The Koni and H&R setup handles significantly better in every way, and is far more easy to live with.

 

The jury is still out on whether or not I want to spring for a roll center kit. My alignment is in spec with the KCA399 rear camber kit from Whiteline.

[Sboarderk03]

Sboarderk - Why did you switch to the AVO solids?

 

Handling reasons pretty much. Not having that ball joint inside the endlinks means less flex and more actual utilization of the larger sized sway bars. Just that little extra that you get from having all upgraded components, rck included. Dishwasher, if you have all other suspension pieces I recommend the whiteline rck.

[MilesA]

Handling reasons pretty much. Not having that ball joint inside the endlinks means less flex and more actual utilization of the larger sized sway bars. Just that little extra that you get from having all upgraded components, rck included. Dishwasher, if you have all other suspension pieces I recommend the whiteline rck.

The ball joint style is actually the superior design. The end link has to accommodate the changing angle of the connections somehow. A solid rubber bushing just deforms, which means that the joint is actually binding a bit. It is cheaper to make, that's the advantage, if you can call it that.

 

There is no significant slop in ball joint connections if properly designed and not worn out.

[Dishwasher]

Handling reasons pretty much. Not having that ball joint inside the endlinks means less flex and more actual utilization of the larger sized sway bars. Just that little extra that you get from having all upgraded components, rck included. Dishwasher, if you have all other suspension pieces I recommend the whiteline rck.

 

Yeah a number of people have recommended it. I'll get a RCK at some point. The car seems to be driving fine without it. I don't do any track days and most of my driving is done on the highway.

[Sboarderk03]

The ball joint style is actually the superior design. The end link has to accommodate the changing angle of the connections somehow. A solid rubber bushing just deforms, which means that the joint is actually binding a bit. It is cheaper to make, that's the advantage, if you can call it that.

 

There is no significant slop in ball joint connections if properly designed and not worn out.

 

I hear you miles thank you. You are right the ball joint should have no slop unless worn so getting into specifics I should have mentioned I am basically referring to the legacies overall oem style endlink which due to its very small stature does have more flex than the avo. While the ball joint style whiteline endlinks may actually be better than the avo endlink, I felt an improvement going from oem to the larger moog. Now going from moog to avo may not have been as drastic of a difference but it was still not nonexistent and the avo's just look real good Maybe some day I will try the whiteline endlinks and see how much of an improvement they can give but for now Im happy with what I have.

[crisjp3]

Interesting take. I'm going for the MOOG's and a 20mm whiteline sway bar. Sounds decent right?

[MilesA]

Based on what you've told us you are looking for, you should be pleased. Remember the AVO reinforcement brackets for the rear sway bar mounts.

[VespaGTS]

They made 47 Silver LGT wagons in 2007 with the auto transmission. Found it somewhere on the site a long time ago. Since I have one of the 47 its good to see another one.

[crisjp3]

VespaGTS: Are you serious? I had no Idea. I knew they were rare but for the number to be so low I'm quite pleased then.

 

MilesA: Could you show me where I could find the Brackets? I only find ones for newer WRX's

[MilesA]

Those brackets are showing here on the AVO website:

http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/rear-stabilizer-mount-brace-p-115.html

 

You may be able to find at other places by searching for the part number S1104M1HT001T.

[Max Capacity]

They made 47 Silver LGT wagons in 2007 with the auto transmission. Found it somewhere on the site a long time ago. Since I have one of the 47 its good to see another one.

 

Sticky up top of this forum, I believe.

[crisjp3]

Hey guys quick question. Instead of white line would a Cusco Rear sway bar also work? And will it fit the AVO mounts?

[MilesA]

Hey guys quick question. Instead of white line would a Cusco Rear sway bar also work? And will it fit the AVO mounts?

Yes, just don't get a rear sway bar that is too stiff. If it is a solid bar, somewhere around 20mm or slightly above is good for the suspension setup you are going with. If the bar is tubular, it should match the solid bar in stiffness though the dimensions will be different. You just need the right size bushings to match the outside diameter of your swaybar. There are quite a few brands to choose from.

[crisjp3]

Got it! I'll definitely go through with the purchase from my subaru group here in CA. Its a 22mm Cusco Adjustable sway bar plus endlinks. . Not sure what the "adjustable" means but we'll see when I get it friday. Then I can start fixing up the suspension that is sorely in need of repair.