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P0700....fml


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so there I was....

 

...with Dave at the dyno. engine was solid, passed the smoke test and diagnostics, car strapped to the dyno. First WOT 3rd gear pull and dave says, "your transmission is pissed!"

 

long story short, I'm throwing a P0700 and had to spend stupid money to get a flat bed to take my car from Denver back down to the springs. I know absolutely nothing about transmissions except how to swap them. Since this tranny has ~200k on it, I'm thinking it would probably be cheaper just to buy another one, rather than try to tear it apart, put in a rebuild kit, or pay some transmission specialist more stupid money just to tell me they cant fix it and I need to replace it anyway.

 

any thoughts on the topic? I'm open to any and all suggestions.

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What transmission code(s) do you have? P0700 is just the transmission control module asking the engine control module to turn on the CEL. You need a full-featured scanner to pull the transmisison code(s) and start diagnosis. If you just need a solenoid or valve body, something you can replace in situ, great. If the tranny needs serious work, yeah, just replace it. Call Subie Recyclers in Wheat Ridge.

 

Curious about the long story. Did Dave not pull the tranny codes at the dyno?

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You need to figure out what tranny codes came up before you do anything because, like relative4 said, it could be something super simple. Not to mention, finding a low mile junkyard trans + shipping + labor is still going to easily be $1500. What kind of power were you looking to make? Mine had 215k on it, and worked 100% fine until I broke the 260whp range. Then clutches started slipping from the torque and eventually the diff shattered.

 

Also, now is a good time to modify that valve body! ;)

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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He did not pull the code.

 

he did say that the transmission acted fine while in drive, but as soon as he switched it over to sport, it started acting funny. laggy, rough, whatever. he tried to reset the ecu but apparently the P0700 is the one code that wont go away without a special scanner. after resetting the ECU, he tried to run the car in drive at about 30mph in hopes the TCM would learn that it was safe to drive again; this was not the case. I pulled away from the shop, got less than a mile down the road and the car just died. wouldn't start back up. waited 5 minutes, car started up but as soon as I put it in gear, it died again. wasn't going to risk driving 77 miles home, so I called the flat bed.

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the first run was 226.7/288.4; that was before Dave really got a chance to play with the maps.

 

I do have a harbor freight close by, anyone know what the name of that special diagnostic tool for $80 is? Since the car isn't drivable right now, I cant exactly take it to a trans specialist around town.

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No engine codes? I had forgot to plug in the crank sensor after a timing belt install once and the ECU freaked, stalled the engine, and the TCU freaked from the ECU's reaction and threw a P0700.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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for reference, my cars current mods and condition:

 

05 LGT lim. Wagon 5EAT

196k miles

Cobb catted downpipe

STi catless UP

Borla catback exhaust

mishimoto intercooler

mishimoto radiator

transmission cooler

GS full exhaust gasket kit from heads to post DP.

AP v2 -002

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I do have a harbor freight close by, anyone know what the name of that special diagnostic tool for $80 is? Since the car isn't drivable right now, I cant exactly take it to a trans specialist around town.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=obd+professional

 

I believe I have the 60694. It pulls tranny codes from my SUV (all my Subies are manuals).

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Considering the mileage of the transmission I wouldn't be surprised if this is a worn brake belt that slips in the gearbox. That's something that's revealed when you put more power through the gearbox than usual.

 

As long as the gearbox don't take a leak and starts disintegrating there's hope that it's fixable.

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thanks relative. I just called my local harbor freight. they have that in stock. I'll head that way after work. they said it's 20% off with my Inside track membership so that's nice!

 

I'll report back later tonight with more news. here's to hoping I'm not completely hosed.

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I can chime in with a little more detail.

 

After the first 3rd gear pull it wanted to idle hang and then started acting up at idle ie in drive with foot on the brake and you could feel it surging a tad. I have had plenty of 5eat's on this dyno and this one was not happy.

 

After trying the "quick fix" of cruising at speed which did not clear the code we started a very quick test to get it into manual mode in which it would not rev over about 1800rpms in gear before wanting to buck, attempt to downshift and upshift and ultimately try and die due to load.

 

Because this was the last appt of the day there was not a lot of diag time available and pulling the code would have resulted in more fees and money since it was strapped on the dyno and no resolutions were going to be available same day. Trans work/diagnostics is something we do not do in house *ie we send out all trans related problems to other sources so we were limitimg the customers expense if we could not offer the fix.

 

Its very possible it is something fixable without replacing the trans which was mentioned to the customer but ultimately with a engine and trans that are at the 200k mark its always a question on what kind of money is worth putting into a unit with so many miles vs replacement.

 

I was hoping for it to throw another ecu code to coincide with the odd behaviour but it wouldnt do it. When he had called saying it through a cam sensor code after leaving the shop i became a little more optimistic and had him doublecheck connections and such from cam and crank as they can make all sorts of odd things happen.

 

Hope it ends up being something simple but either was its always a bummer in situations such as this and jazzAV8r is very capable of doing his own wrenching so i know he will find and fix the issue

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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thanks dave.

 

for the record, none of this was Dave's fault and there is zero animosity toward him. I was well aware of the risks associated with dynoing a car and I ultimately made the choice to proceed. that's on me. I don't want anyone to think twice because of my issue as it relates to Dave. My experience with him was very professional and I left satisfied (at least with him, not so much my car).

 

Once I remedy the situation, I have every intention of taking the car back to him for a proper tune.

 

thanks Dave!

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Not a problem Jazz, that is the hardest part of my job is giving a customer a car back that is not complete due to mechanical issues.

 

Keep me updated

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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update:

 

i bought the 60694 scan tool and plugged it in. it's throwing a P0725 - Engine Speed Sensor Input Circuit Malfunction. It was also throwing the cam position sensor code still. just for grins, i decided to clear the codes. the P0725 remains, but the P0700 and P0340 are gone. I limped it around the block and everything seemed normal. so i decided to goose it a lil to see if the light would come back on. full boost pull up to 50mph and everything seems normal. CEL never came back on. I dont want to risk taking it more than a block away until I can figure out what's going on though.

 

what are your recommendations?

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Anything that gives more info is good. No fun to have a car where you don't know what the problem is.

 

It's of course possible that the P0725 is related to the P0700 code.

 

Notice that a bad battery voltage also can mess things up.

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yeah. I'm confident the P0725 is what is triggering the P0700. that's a no-brainer.

 

Any thoughts on where to source some Amsoil ATF? I've heard that and the Subaru ATF-HD are the only good fluids for our trannys. is that true? any other thoughts? I also read that there's no real reason to change out either of the two filters -- also true?

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