Wasted Potential Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 The recall looks like it has been done (the junction looks like relatively new, the bracket holding onto it is extremely rusty (assuming they didn't replace that). Only worry is there is no wax protestant on it. I was under it and did not smell a hard odor of fuel (like off the top of the tank). So I'm assuming it's just the fuel pump. Hopefully tonight I can get under it and remove the plastic shield in order to look at the tank better. With just the rear on ramps I could not get a good angle to see said nipple, will have to check again. I may make another thread for the brake dilemma. Busy with the hurricane messing up vacation, and all this car work and school work compiling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 That is weird about that gasket! Wonder if there is a thickness difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I have had the rear nipple on the gas tank also rust right off the tank and am in the process of getting it replaced...Take off rear passenger wheel and look with a flash light...You should have no probs. seeing the back side of tank...Also i was able to reach my arm in and feel around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 I will check that soon. Not to jump to conclusions though, would that indicate the smell be equally present at all times if there is fuel in the tank? I notice the smell much more the more full the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 No, once the gas is below 2/3's of a full tank the smell decreased dramatically, below 1/2 a tank you thought all was fine. If the car sat with the windows up in the sun, then you'd get a slight hint when you opened the doors. I normally leave the car in the parking lot at work with the windows down a little so the car is always fresh when I get in. I also drive with the window's when every possible. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Hit the junction with a lot of brake cleaner to make sure it's clean. Buy a can of liquid plasti-dip and a small brush and give it a solid coating. Let it dry and do it again twice more. Make sure and coat the lines at least a couple of inches from the block and you'll be OK from that point on. Fuel pump bolts-penetrating oil is your friend but first hit it with carb cleaner good. The acid in the carb cleaner will open up the pores in the metal. Then hit it good with penetrating oil. Use a 6 point socket and place it on the nuts first and give it a good whack with a small ball peen hammer to shock the threads. Use a 1/4" ratchet and gently work the nuts back and forth. Try tightening them a slight bit first and then loosen and tighten.......you get the drill. Once you remove the nuts, go buy some stainless nylock nuts. Clean your ring really well and paint it with about 3 coats of Rustoleum all the way around. Re-install everything and use anti-seize on the studs. Do NOT overtighten the nuts and use good flat washers under the nuts. Once all installed again, put an ample coat of the plasti-dip over all of the nuts and on the ring and you should never have that problem again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovcoursitsilver Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 The gas tank is steel, by the way, and will rust eventually. Mine did, after 13 salty Québec winters it finally started leaking and caused a CEL while I was 1,400 miles from home. Subaru lists 6 hours of labor to change the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Put it up on a lift and took the tire off, couldn't see the nipple, this guy painted EVERYTHING with some thick hammered look paint/rust protectant. Took off the shield cover passenger side of the tank, there are no current leaks from the tank, but the edges are rusted to heck and splitting bad in two spots... if I can find a deal on a tank, filler neck, and whatever metal lines that may be on the fascia of the tank I will just do it all at once... my buddy said $100 if I help him... I'll be doing the pads and rotors and leave him to it, good deal to me haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 OP, I was wondering where you are located? Do they use a lot of salt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Pay your buddy, order a tank from the auto parts stores and fill pipe. The parts will be less then $500. Its the labor that's a killer. My buddies body shop had to cut a hole in the frame rail to remove the nut so they could drop the sub frame. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 I am from Syracuse NY, Nick name 'salt city'... car only has 117k miles... We are one of the snowieet cities in the US or something... they use literal poop tons of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Is the 05-09 legacy tank the same as the GT, and are they the same between sedan and wagon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Is the 05-09 legacy tank the same as the GT, and are they the same between sedan and wagon? Yes, it looks that way. http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/TANK-COMPLETE-FUEL/49248676/42012AG02B.html Check the "What this fits" tab... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 I am from Syracuse NY, Nick name 'salt city'... car only has 117k miles... We are one of the snowieet cities in the US or something... they use literal poop tons of it... I used to live there and I'm happy I no longer have to deal with such corrosion of vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Ordered about $200 worth of evap lines, filler pipe, exhaust bolts and gaskets, and looking into a used salvage tank for maybe 100,, otherwise 240 for a new one through parts geek which will need to be coated... I'd like to be in webster/Rochester actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Spray the big bolts with PB Blaster, the guy's tell me they had to bleed the brakes because they had top break one of the connections. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Also if you coat the new or used tank that you get look into por-15...there is black coat to go over the used tank and if you get new then I believe it's gray coat....Most jeep guys use this stuff for under coat of there whole vehicle to prevent rust and on the inside under the rug encase inside gets water in it Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 I looked into POR15, it's 50 a gallon if I remember. On my wrangler I used a form of herculiner in a tub, it seemed more so to trap moisture, the aerosol stuff worked better! It is a used OEM tank from a salvage yard, rated at their highest quality category, only $100. Not too bad. Will take pictures when stuff comes shipped in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 I looked into POR15, it's 50 a gallon if I remember. On my wrangler I used a form of herculiner in a tub, it seemed more so to trap moisture, the aerosol stuff worked better! It is a used OEM tank from a salvage yard, rated at their highest quality category, only $100. Not too bad. Will take pictures when stuff comes shipped in...POR-15 is a little different than something like herculiner. It chemically reacts with rust to form a coating that protects against further rust. You have to prep the surface to clean it and remove any loose rust, but it's not necessary to remove all rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 If you got used them get the black pot-15...made specifically for stopping rust... Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 I can just cost the OEM goop/coating with POR 15, not needing to strip it? I'm assuming the filler tube will not have any coating... Will definitely need something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 I can just cost the OEM goop/coating with POR 15, not needing to strip it? I'm assuming the filler tube will not have any coating... Will definitely need something. You have to prep the surface to remove loose rust, paint, etc. & promote adhesion for the POR-15, but you don't have to remove everything to bare metal. They sell a metal prep product, or you could use a similar product for this. The stages are: - clean and degrease - apply metal prep - apply POR-15 - (optional) apply paint coating over POR-15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Is there any external sock/filter that should be present on the sending unit? I just received my replacement and the only external component seems to be the plum bob for level detection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 the sock i think is in the big plastic cyinder wher the fuel pump is. i am having a similar issue but its because fuel is seeping out around the gasket. i think the gasket got eatten when my brake likes broke a few months ago and leaked brake fluid on top of the tank. i got a new gasket but am on the fence if i should also get a new fuel pump and filters with 140k on my current one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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