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Rusty fuel components (pics): What part and may this hole be deeper than anticipated?


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If I could redo it, I would just spend the ~320 on sending unit, gasket, mount plate, and nuts.

Instead I saw a bit of rust that scared me into buying another $400 worth of gas tank, evap lines, exhaust gaskets, bolts, gas filler tube, etc. to replace the tank.

 

I am debating just buying an OBX-R catback as the exhaust is crusty and I need to drop it anyhow...

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The exhaust is something I originally wanted to do (waa hoping just to do an axleback). But for a nameless axleback with mufflers it is $529, this catback is a little over $100 cheaper, and I will add a magnaflow oval in between. My logic is that if I am taking the old off, I might as well put new on haha.

That's why I ended up buying a ton of random bolts and gaskets that might be reused, but would rather have that "piece of mind" factor.

The exhaust part is the problem that I wanted a daily driver that was quasi enjoyable after selling my other toys. $500 for the enjoyment of sound is a price I have to pay,..

 

I was bummed I am doing all this back end work with no touching of the motor... if I was up there it would already be a vf52 and different up and down pipes!

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I've recently had a Invidia Q300 on my wagon, it's catless, it was too loud for everyday driving.

 

That replaced the rusted out custom "Y" adaptor I had welded to the stock mid pipe, and 2.25" custom bent pipes back to Magnaflow knocks offs and 4" tips. That exhaust sounded great under WOT and was nice for everyday driving.

 

The Q300 is now on my Spec B, catted DP. its an amazing difference, the Q300 is quiet around the neighborhood. Will take it out on the highway this Saturday night.

 

The wagon has the Pro Lab Tuning open mufflers on the stock mid pipe from the Spec. It's fun with the windows down but too loud for a long drive. I may put the stock mufflers back on for winter, or take the old stock mid pipe with the rusty "Y" back to the shop who made it 5 years ago and see if they can order a better "Y" and fit that system back on the car.

 

I will also say I like the throttle response of the stock midpipe.

 

I can post pictures later when I'm home if you'd like.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Wow, that y portion is.... something else haha.

What is the change from spec b exhaust portion to legacy gt stock?

 

Just ordered the OBX catback for $400 shipped. Not bad when I see it for 550-600!

Not sure if I will try running without a mid muffler before the Y, or if I will just order the magnaflow 11219 to weld in place of the often leaky 'slip' fitting

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Wow, that y portion is.... something else haha.

What is the change from spec b exhaust portion to legacy gt stock?

 

Just ordered the OBX catback for $400 shipped. Not bad when I see it for 550-600!

Not sure if I will try running without a mid muffler before the Y, or if I will just order the magnaflow 11219 to weld in place of the often leaky 'slip' fitting

 

The stock pipes are the same except the wagons have longer tips to clear the larger rear bumper.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Out with the old....36be121e36e9f056197c43c470da269a.jpgfcd5011ef080fbd709b47d0954e47ef7.jpg

 

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

That doesn't look as bad as mine did. That small nipple to the right of the fill pipe was rusted off.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Mine is not leaking from any nipples/tank sides that I'm aware of yet, but those prior mentioned corners are pretty bad in two spots where the flanges meet. I keep sitting here debating if it was necessary, but due to local salt it makes me believe one more winter it would've been rotted through. I feel that when doing repairs, over reacting and doing more than just the bare bones usually saves my butt later on.

 

For the new tank that already has protestant on it, I can just decrease and re apply POR15, or do I need to metal prep and all? I know the new metal filler is to get metal prep due to possible residue lingering before POR15 goes on it, but don't want to spend 6 hours prepping the tank.

 

I have my Haynes manual (maybe chilton, cannot remember which) but have not looked to required procedure.

I see people mention dropping rear unit of subframe holding diff. and all... you mention cutting a hole in the subframe, I am unsure for what bolt you needed to do this. Did you weld over with a patch after?

This car is pretty bad rust wise underneath (especially this scaling on the rear subframe unit holding the drivetrain/suspension/diff.). Not sure if I should just play it safe and drop everything as specified? I'm sure I will have a lot of rusted together bolts... seems i need to go get more never seize..

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The body shop had the rear subframe sitting on a tranny jack when I saw the car. The nut was one for one of the subframe bolts. They did weld the hole and rust proofed.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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This is the stock mid pipe welded to a stock dp ? If you have a 3" dp going on, just cut the mid pipe off.

 

An exhaust shop may be the best place to ask, or see if the auto parts stores can order you he flanges, someone has to carry them.

 

May be call Walker Exhaust and ask them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yea, nice to be able to fill the tank and not smell fuel...or see a spot on the driveway.

 

Had to put a new battery in the wagon today, the old one I put in Oct 09.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Pulled the seat immediately before, and left it off as I got gas, no leaks!

Put a nameless exhaust on, sounds good. Nowhere nearly as bad of drone as I was expecting.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uY0HQDE94kY

I may need to buy a new catback section to the axleback as the flange meeting up to the axleback is nearly non existant after needing to hack it apart...

Has a small exhaust leak somewhere up front, but not horrible, will have to be under it while running to check it out...

Buying charcoal paint for the rims as they are curbed, bright blue caliper paint as I'm replacing both rears and will just paint them all. As well as ordered rally armor flaps..

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