bdcvg Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 So I have been trying to get My car ready for a tune, E-tune, dyno, Cobb, Not sure which yet. I did timing belt kit ,spark plugs , injector clean, new PCV , checked for leaks in intake or vacuum. I pull My LV and I get these values last 8 times I pulled the numbers. Is this normal or am I missing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Looks like you may have a small vacuum leak (positive fuel trims across the board), assuming your current tune (or lack thereof) reflects your mods. More info... any mods on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Only mod I have is a light crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I have just done the "blow into the BOV vacuum line" test and I can put My thumb over the line, count to 25 and move thumb and air blows back out the line so I have a good seal on the intake side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Did you have those positive values before cleaning the injectors or is that a new thing? How old are your MAF and O2 sensors? Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I did not have the red # before the injector clean, as far as I know MAF and O2 sensors are original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Only mod I have is a light crank pulley. Don't you have some washers in the exhaust system too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Heh yeah that's right , I'm in on the Hawgzaust mod. I'm not gonna hide it. I don't care if I'm judged by it either. ATTICA,ATTICA,ATTICA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 That's kind of a high AF Learning #1 B. Your car's newer than mine and from what I understand the TGVs work differently, but the only time I've seen my car in that range for any appreciable period of time is right when the TGVs open up during warmup idle. I'll also say this: according to the Wikipedias (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orders_of_magnitude_(pressure)), human lungs should be able to provide a high positive pressure of ~2 psi, maybe a bit more. Our cars should generate about 10 psi of negative pressure at idle, if my boost gauge is to be trusted. When I was hunting vacuum leaks, I sealed up two easy ones I found by my janky "blow Black and Mild smoke into it" smoke test. Followed up with the same test as you (except blowing into inlet with an adapter), and it came out just like yours. When I tried to pressurize it higher using a pump, however, it leaked. Turned out I had loose clamps at both the turbo inlet and the TB coupler. It's possible that you still have a leak if that's the only test you've done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 That's kind of a high AF Learning #1 B. Your car's newer than mine and from what I understand the TGVs work differently, but the only time I've seen my car in that range for any appreciable period of time is right when the TGVs open up during warmup idle. TGVs likely don't have much to do with his trim, IMO. Depending on driving conditions, keeping up with slow traffic at moderate speeds can land in the "B" range. You're right on with the leak test though. Under idle while coasting, you'll easily hit -10psi of vacuum. You should also clean your MAF sensor if you haven't already. All that said, you should go ahead and start the tuning process, since it's possible you're just fine mechanically. The trims are a bit large, but it's still well within the ECU's range of correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 I plan to get some MAF cleaner today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 Got MAF cleaner, what's the consensus on reset ECU after cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Got MAF cleaner, what's the consensus on reset ECU after cleaning? I wouldn't bother. Just drive normally and let your ECU do its thing. Just an FYI, the MAF is not the probe that you can see easily when you pull the sensor from the housing. It's a couple of wires that are buried deep in the housing: Yup, green arrow points to IAT sensor, the red points to where the MAF wires are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 Yeah Thanks, I read that here. Gonna do the Wifes Jeep too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 Wires on the IAT probe were black, the 2 down in probably not great but can't really see them. Clamp on inlet at turbo wasn't as tight as it could be either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Well looks like the Cobb accessport is the best option right now. I can get off the stock tune and it will be easy to change later via e-tune or OTS map. I am not computer savvy enough to try the Tactrix/ ROM raider route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Took the car out today for about 40 mins. combo of hiway and stop and go traffic. Took an LV reading and no change from 1st post. Right after I changed all the timing stuff and plugs, oil,airfilter etc. I had a few yellow #'s a few times but no timing correction. Now that red # in column C. Maybe changing the PCV I knocked something loose, I did that the same time I replaced the IC to TB hose with a Cobb silicone one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 This came to Me while I searched for a vacuum leak. Last item I changed on car was replace original PCV. So I went there to see if I had a loose connection. I noticed oil in the valve, more than usual. Idea, I mis-read My dipstick about 2 weeks ago and overfilled the sump. I didn't see it as a major issue but if it's sucking that much mist into the intake system that would mess with the AF trims at certain vacuum times. Any thoughts? I'm removing some oil to see if it's a possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 Swing and a miss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 So I've tried a bunch of fixes and no luck. Before I changed PCV valve I had no #'s above 8.00. Went on an 800 mile round trip and took these LV's . What the heck is going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 O.K. latest attemp a cure. Confirmed timing belt is on correctly. Cleaned MAF again. Start car and get a code. BTSSM says code is " MAF too low, IAT too high" clear code. re-start car and get same code and clear 3 times before code is gone. Maybe MAF is going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Sounds plausible. How many miles on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 84K, I just picked up My AP from Turn in Concepts. Clint suggested another leak test especially around turbo inlet. Take propane torch, turn on gas run unlit torch around potential leak spots while car runs. The propane will cause a stumble when sucked in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 Tried the propane trick and got no stumble. Ran My bore scope down the inlet tube and it shows a good seal around turbo, no lip curl. Changed air filter and that caused the maf too low, iat too high code again. Took 3 attempts to clear code. Started car , un-plugged maf. Threw same code, same 3 attempts before it clears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 Solved. After talking with Turn In Concepts about My issue while picking up My Cobb AP, I went back and started over. Discovered the hose clamp at the turbo inlet is worn and loosens up over time. bada-bing-bada-boom-shakalaka Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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