I guess it's my turn

[birdmayne]

Look on nasioc for differences. Not worth losing sleep over.

Be sure to clean tmic really well. metal gets into everything.

 

If you drop a rod and don't catch your car on fire, you weren't trying hard enough. the local porsche club still uses my mishap as reason to check your fluids before going on track.

I wasn't worried about it either way, just got mixed up on which was which. I'm using the TMIC from the not blowed up motor, or buying something shiny to put in that location.

[seanyb505]

B25 came first chronologically. D25 came with cars that use air pump is my understanding.

 

No half moon seals on d25, make sure you have air pump delete plates if your car doesn't have one. I think that started in 2007.

 

I used d25 heads on a stock ej257 shortblock from Subaru. I've not driven it back to back with any Subaru so I'm not sure how it compares. It hasn't been dynoed, and Mike at tuning alliance has never commented or given much feedback on how the engine responds or if it requires any thing different in the tune. I'm sure it does, I've just never been told.

 

Also with d25 watch out for hard oil line plumbing on the passenger side. I know it's different from b25 heads, and there are changes between years of d25. You can get a good idea by familiarizing yourself with parts diagrams and part numbers.

[birdmayne]

Not much to update at this time. I have spent nearly every day changing my build direction, so I decided to put some cash aside and really figure it out before I make the next move.

Basic rebuild / refresh on the D25s, ARP head studs, OEM gaskets, OEM oil pump, OEM timing set, top feed TGV deletes and OS tune are the only things I really have set in stone.

 

I have two VF-52s, one with 50K and no shaft play but leaked oil out of the inlet while sitting on a shelf (possibly bad seal?), one with 60K but came off the motor that high speed disassembled (needs to be rebuilt). I also have a high mileage VF-40 that would need to be rebuilt. And I keep daydreaming about a Dom, which leads to my next hang up...

 

Stock exhaust manifold or higher quality UEL (love the rumble), or ELH for all the obvious reasons. Then, twin scroll or single? EWG or internal?

 

Definitely going with a 3" catted DP, but completely torn on large TMIC or FMIC. And pretty much every other detail possible.

Someday, I'll make more progress. Someday...

Until then, I'll sit here and debate with myself and others until we are all sick of it.

[Flinkly]

what are your actual goals and uses for the car? DD? autocross? DD and autocross? you probably already went over it, but since you're still up in the air, figure we can revisit. also, any real budget or timeline? TS can be had for a reasonable price, but might take time and some cleanup/rebuilding.

[gkinslow]

Have you considered something along these lines?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/pa-vf52-billet-wheel-262890.html

[birdmayne]

what are your actual goals and uses for the car? DD? autocross? DD and autocross? you probably already went over it, but since you're still up in the air, figure we can revisit. also, any real budget or timeline? TS can be had for a reasonable price, but might take time and some cleanup/rebuilding.

 

My initial goal/plan was a fairly basic overhaul and to keep it my DD. Maybe one or two autocross events a year, possibly a few laps at a track day. But mostly just DD. But then, I found a forged internals block with lots of fancy stuff in it and my ideas started to change.

My timeline is fairly open, the stock motor is running strong, I just need to finish some maintenance on it and rebuild the brake calipers. Budget is also flexible, I can take my time to buy the parts I want, instead of whatever I can afford at the time. I love getting my hands dirty, so cleanup/rebuilding is fine with me! I just don't have any experience rebuilding a turbo, so I would want to practice a few times before trusting it myself.

 

If I go crazy and build something a little more wild, I'll just continue to DD my SC300 until I decide to rebuild that and go standalone, with my GT37VA on it. Or, I'll steal my '93 Accord back from my old man and drive that while I help the wife and kids pack because I moved in to the garage and never came back. Who knows, really

[Flinkly]

lol, so no plan.

 

since you can take your time, a TS "kit" is fairly cheap when you look at what you're getting. usually start at $1.2k, but i'm sure sell for less eventually (few sellers and fewer buyers). that should get you a used turbo (useful items being the coolant pipes, compressor and turbine covers), uppipe, headers, downpipe and turbo bracket. if your lucky, you'll get the turbo heatshields (4 pieces) and an uppipe with an additional cover. what that really gets you is a bellmouth, single cat DP with heatshields down to the rear O2, an EL header with small ID (favors low end torque over max HP) and heatshields (better than ceramic coating and/or header wrap - faster spool, higher hp, quicker heat up, etc.), and with TS you get better transient response. not something you can show on dynos. Just to get an aftermarket ELH, up and DP would cost you $1k+.

 

and if you want to go crazy after stock TS (essentially a VF52), then can get a 1.5XTR next. but i think that's a little much for DD duty.

 

To me, turbo selection is where you should start, but it's hard to know without trying/driving different combo's of parts. do you want low down torque for racing from light to light, or max HP for straights on the track (only place i can imagine it being useful, never get there legally on the street)?

 

Honestly, there are millions of options, mostly with no concrete goal or budget.

 

But, i don't think the VF40 should be an option, unless you're willing to run it as-is. a rebuild just won't be cost effective. you'll spend turbo rebuild money ($$$) and all you'll get is peace of mind that it should be good for 120k+ miles with oil changes. no real gain to show for the expense.

 

At the least, should put in a VF52 with new pump, filter and injectors (top feed, and might as well TGV delete) and call it a day. that's already a ~$1k+ expense without any head/block work.

[FJuan]

Don't need a new pump or injectors to run a VF52, that's only if you want to max out it's potential. Which I've seen not too much of a gain more for the price of a pump and injectors to be added.

[Flinkly]

Don't need a new pump or injectors to run a VF52, that's only if you want to max out it's potential. Which I've seen not too much of a gain more for the price of a pump and injectors to be added.

 

true on all accounts, and depending on tuner, moving from stock injectors raises tune price.

 

 

do you already have an aftermarket DP? that changes things too. TS makes a lot less sense financially then.

[gkinslow]

I upgraded my fuel pump but kept the injectors initially. 290whp 319ftlbs

 

I say go for the glory.

[FJuan]

I upgraded my fuel pump but kept the injectors initially. 290whp 319ftlbs

 

I say go for the glory hole.

 

Fixed

[Flinkly]

Fixed

 

now we're getting a little off track...

 

 

...but i like where it's going.

[FJuan]

now we're getting a little off track...

 

 

...but i like where it's going.

 

Hey the WC has been slow lately, I needed some place to fock around in.

[birdmayne]

true on all accounts, and depending on tuner, moving from stock injectors raises tune price.

 

 

do you already have an aftermarket DP? that changes things too. TS makes a lot less sense financially then.

 

Current motor is bone stock, as far as I know. I do intend to go aftermarket DP on built motor, but have not yet bought one. I'm so far from having a plan at this point in time that I haven't even stepped foot inside the garage that I am using in a month.

I have the idea in my mind that an upgraded VF52 sounds really nice, with themy GS UP and better DP. Probably ID1000s, and I would love a GS TMIC with this set up. Stock pan, Moroso pick up.

But, I love the idea of ELH (possibly TS), a Dom 1.5, and aiming for POWAAA.

[birdmayne]

My commute is roughly 1 mile of easy surface streets and 20 miles of steady interstate driving. I love on ramps and summer excursions over twisty highway passes and back roads. Early, usable power is definitely a must.

I wish I could just host a bbq / drive fest up here and get a feel for some other members setups, instead of mostly flying blind.

[FJuan]

My commute is roughly 1 mile of easy surface streets and 20 miles of steady interstate driving. I love on ramps and summer excursions over twisty highway passes and back roads. Early, usable power is definitely a must.

I wish I could just host a bbq / drive fest up here and get a feel for some other members setups, instead of mostly flying blind.

 

I could let you drive my LGT and what it shouldn't feel like.

[Flinkly]

yeah, so starting from bone stock, a $1k V9 TS kit will make some financial sense. isn't easy to sell if you decide to not use it though. sounds like additional $$$$$ for top feed tgvs, id1000, pump, tune, gs tmic, boost controller, turbo rebuild, engine/head rebuild...

[birdmayne]

yeah, so starting from bone stock, a $1k V9 TS kit will make some financial sense. isn't easy to sell if you decide to not use it though. sounds like additional $$$$$ for top feed tgvs, id1000, pump, tune, gs tmic, boost controller, turbo rebuild, engine/head rebuild...

 

Well, I'm already going to be a few grand into the block, heads, all the accessories and gaskets. I'll probably end up with stock TMIC, pump, injectors, TGV deletes, stock manifold, GS UP, better DP and a JMPVF52. Should be enough for 300+.

[FJuan]

When I rebuilt my motor I was planning for $4k, ending up being $6k after every thing was done. There is a lot of other parts that's over looked once the motor is out, and I was on a tight budget.

[gkinslow]

Well, I'm already going to be a few grand into the block, heads, all the accessories and gaskets. I'll probably end up with stock TMIC, pump, injectors, TGV deletes, stock manifold, GS UP, better DP and a JMPVF52. Should be enough for 300+.

 

This should get you to 300 easily but you will be limited to >18psi or your stock tmic will shit the bed. Might anyway.

 

I thought I recently saw a used GS tmic in the for sale section for around $700.

[birdmayne]

This should get you to 300 easily but you will be limited to >18psi or your stock tmic will shit the bed. Might anyway.

 

I thought I recently saw a used GS tmic in the for sale section for around $700.

 

As long as the stocker holds up for a while, I have no qualms with upgrading it down the road. Any upgrades that can be done easily after install can wait until its at least broken in.

[birdmayne]

Haven't forgotten about this. Just slowly acquiring the parts I need. Currently torn between stock head gaskets or one of the aftermarket options. Have ARP head studs to use. Still need the heads cleaned and adjusted. Sticking with stock valves and cams. Then I can start putting things together

[Flinkly]

for some reason i thought you had "moved on" from turbo subies for now?

[1-3-2-4]

Nice you haven't given up

[birdmayne]

for some reason i thought you had "moved on" from turbo subies for now?

 

I had listed my car for sale but ultimately made ends meet without selling. Never stopped tinkering or working on the motor build though. Hopefully it will be ready to drop in by spring.