twisty Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 correct. ive used it a few times, much easier than trying to hold the pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 I got real excited to put the stuff on, and forgot to tighten the cam sprocket bolts before pulling the pin, is there anyway to tighten them once the belt is on? I don't have to option to push the tensioner back in, so, any methods? Or could I just get the pulley holding tool from o reillys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Remove the valve cover. There sb a flat on the cam on which you can get an open end. On the dohc its 7/8.. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Oooh, and on the sohc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 You'll have to open one side and check. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Its worth a shot haha. I need this done asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 I can't see anything to hold with a wrench ? Or am I not looking hard enough haha. i don't know how to attach an image... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 on the dohc just before the first lobe there are flat portions. If you don't have them, take a cloth and a pair of vise grips and grab the shaft in between two lobes, Have the handle down, so it will prevent rotation. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i.imgur.com/RnlLIF4.jpg[/img] Where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Any part of the shaft that you can get the grips on. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Nah man, there's no place to grab on to. Am I just going to have to remove the belt again?... :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Looks that way. Unless you can use the cloth and the grips on the pulley and the belt simultaneously. If you had an impact wrench it would hold enough to torque it. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 There is a little access panel on the top of the motor by the IACV, but I don't know it's thats easily accessible when the intake manifold is still on the car, but it's just a square hole (2in x 2in ish) on the passenger side of the motor and it gives you access to the torque converter bolts, but that would allow you to hold the motor in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 That only stops the crankshaft from turning. There are also holes on the side of the engine just above the axle that will allow one to slip a tool into the flexplate to stop it from turning also. Neither of these will help in this case, because the pulley will generally move as there is only the belt to hold it. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 I think i'll just take it off. Lol, I have no vise to squish the tensioner back, so I'll just do it the hard way. Push it against a hard surface for 5 minutes lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 When I did that job I made a tool first, like the Subaru tool, so I don't have any ideas. I'd go through the hassle of taking the belt off for fear of damaging the bore in the cam pully, but I'm pretty far from an expert and real cautious about things I don't know, so that's just me. If you pull it in with the cam bolt, I'd say try to do something to hold the pully square to the shaft and go slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 A big C-clamp will work on the tensioner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Got a c clamp? Or use a jack against a hard horizontal surface. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 I once put a press fit barrel into a rifle receiver with a bottle jack, a long 2x4 and a door frame. Sketchy, but it worked. Wasn't that good for the door frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 For those of us who do not have a shop, we generally find a way to get something done. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Yeah, I got it. Did this for the left, and something similar for the right%5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i.imgur.com/PheKRnR.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 I'll align them when I put the belt back on, but I think it worked. I'm lucky I have a non interference engine. torqued em to 90ft/lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Got a c clamp? Or use a jack against a hard horizontal surface. O. I have only one. But its being use to keep the car up, in conjunction with the stands. Yeah, I have a shitty situation with the tools. I've been having to buy them all over again, since I left them all in texas. And my uncle only had a shifty low pro jack thats worth nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Moving can really put a hurt on the toolbox. I kept nearly nothing when I moved across the country. Everything I kept fit inside my Legacy wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 Well, here's a little bit of a update- Overall the job was a success. It no longer leaks up front, and I replaced the damaged crank pulley with a lightweight vms racing one. It feels pretty good withit. However, it still leaks- It does so from between the engine and the trans. I think it might be what is called an oil separator plate. If not a rear main seal or a leak from the input shaft, although that isn't very likely imo. I remember hearing something about cars with wet clutches and dry clutches- if thats a thing, what kind do our cars have? One more thing- the timing is correct, I changed my o2 sensors and I cleaned my throttle body, changed spark plugs, But my car still gets shitty mileage, any ideas of what I could do to solve this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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