95subiblu Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 So the weather finally cleared up enough to check the timing on my car, it seemed okay. All aligned well, so, that takes timing out of the equation for a rich fuel mixture. I loosened the crank pulley and bolt like cake, and as for the cam pulleys (changing all the seals), I broke em loose while the belt was still on... now here comes the reason why I made this post. I held the marks still by applying clockwise force on the crank( i put the bolt back on, and spun it clockwise to align the marks) while breaking loose each cam sprocket. But, silly me, I took off all the gears and idlers and the tensioner, but forgot to take the bolt back off the crank-how do I take it off now? If I try to spin it counter clock wise to loosen it i move the mark. How do I do this? Any tricks you guys have? Let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 If I'm understanding the problem right, then there are a few ways to get the bolt out hile holding the pulley in place, you can try the not recommended way of putting a breaker bar on the bolt and resting it on the ground/having someone else holding it and then bump the motor over using the starter. Or you will have to get ahold of a chain or strap pulley wrench to wrap around the pulley to hold it in place, and the last option is to pull the radiator in order to get enough space to get a small impact wrench on the bolt. Out of experience, I would do the last option and just get it over without and pull out the other stuff in front of the motor, the other methods have downsides to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 I should've taken a picture haha, but like I took the crank pulley off, all the idlers and tensioner, and the t belt. All i'm left with is the cam and crank sprockets. I had put the bolt back in to the crank to rotate the motor to get the marks right, but now if I rotate bolt counter clockwise, it moves the crank sprocket thing thus moving the crank alignment. Would some sort of strap wrench be enough to hold it still to remove the bolt? (Again haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Oh! I misunderstood then, ok that's a little easier to work with then. Just get a big set of plumbers pliers and wrap the crank sprocket in a sturdy cloth or some kind of material to protect it and then have someone else hold the sprocket in place with the pliers and then turn the bolt. You only really need to break the bolt loose so it's not as bad as it could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Thanks man! Sometimes you just need some outside input, its hard to think a way out of the hole when you're in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 You could also pull the starter and use a prybar or big flat screwdriver to hold the flywheel gear teeth. Then you won't have to worry about damaging the timing sprocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I ended up wrapping my old belt around the sprocket. And then on the alternator bracket. (I removed it to lodge anl 1/2 inch ratchet and wrapped the old a/c belt around it and the pulley to break it free with little effort) If interested I could post the video where I found how to do it. It's honestly the easiest way to remove the crank pulley without a doubt- however I have a few questions; When I took my pulley off, the center of it rotated a little- is my pulley still good? Do the new seals ABSOLUTELY have to sit 1000% correctly or do they just hit the bump stop at the end, preventing them from going further? I feel like they are straight and in the same spot as the old ones, but I can't shake the feeling of insecurity. One more, I broke 2 bolts off the oil pump when I was re torquing them (re-sealed with o-ring and tightened the screws inside) one on the up most right, and the other on the very bottom left. (I should've known, they already felt snug...) will it without a doubt leak? Or is there a chance it won't? I don't have a drill and whatnot to get the broken ones out. And I wouldn't know the size bit to use nor the size of bolt to replace it with. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 That pulley is probably junk then, the stock Subaru ones have a band a rubber that connects the inner from the outer portions of the pulley, the rubber dries out and becomes brittle and will eventually break free. It's probably still good to be reused but if it were my car, I'd replace it with a solid one asap. The oil pump will definitely leak, that seal and the bolts are part of a pressurized system so it's only a matter of time until it leaks. You really should pull the pump off and remove the old broken bolts, that'll be a tedious job but it'll save you a lot of headache in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Cool, thanks for answering my questions! So, would you happen to know what size bolts are those that hold the pump there in place? And, what drill bit should I use to get the old stuff out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I just haven't ever had to deal with this before. Haha I had just replaced the oil pump seal when I took it off, will it still be good if I remove the pump again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I got really lucky, I removed the oil pump and they were long enough to be removed via visegrips. Thank god! Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I'm off to buy some replacements, preferrably some stronger ones, any recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Just take one to the store and match thread size and length. If you are referring to the crank seal, I'd reuse it. The O ring I'd replace. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 They're M6-1.0 x 1.5in I believe and you should reseal the pump to the motor just to be safe but the crankshaft seal is definitely reusable. As far as pulleys go, I'd get a hold of a grimmspeed or equivalent solid light weight crank pulley. More for the fact that they're solid aluminum instead of the fact that they are lighter than the stock one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Yeah, I got the right size, but I think I'll go get stock ones when I get the chance. As for the pulley, I'll use the stock one for a bit since I'll have to order the new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 That should be ok, I'd send you my spare OEM one but I doubt it's in any better condition haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Lol, man. That wouldn't be so bad. I might as well buy the whole aluminum pulley kit. I did some basic research, and If i buy a pulley kit from a 2005 forester, it should work fine on my 95 ej22. But, I can only get lucky to get unlucky after. When I was putting on the idlers and whatnot for the belts, the tensioner pulley AND the tensioner bolts got stripped. At least I think so, I heard/felt a slight pop noise, and since then they don't really tighten anymore, but they are loose. Then tensioner pulley definitely over 15lbs on though. Would there be anychance to drive it like that for atleast a week or two? I'd have to save up to buy the helicoil kit. But, I wasn't even up to tq spec, how could they still strip thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Make sure you do not get an underdrive pulley kit. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Oh yeah, definitely wouldn't. As for my question, is it at all possible to drive the way it sits right now? (The tensioner pulley stripped, but sorta tight, and one bolt on the tensioner stripped) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 No, the belt will slip and you'll lose timing. The only good is since it's a 95, there is no worry about bent valves. Remove what's left of the bolts and match it up at store. IIRC the tensioner bolts are M8x1.5. Don't know the length. You can drill into the center of the bolts with a hardened bit @1/8" dia. Spray with PB and tap regular screw into the hole. This should have enough grip to back them out. A left handed drill bit should work also. Don't try the screw extractor. They'll break off and you'll have this piece of hardened steel in there. If necessary you can replace the tensioner bracket and not worry about rethreading or new bolts. Will send you a PM, O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Hmmm, replacing the tensioner bracket sounds more feasible. And ultimately like a better fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 I had the same thing happen during my engine build. I never had it happen when I did timing service the past two times but of course it did it when I had the motor pulled and was on a time constraint. I ended up getting a heli coil kit and installing that, that way it'll be stronger than bolting into aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95subiblu Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 I would have loved to have the chance to pull my motor out, but I have no such tools up here... if not my car would be driving right now I'll have to helicoil some bolt anyway, I stripped the thread on one of the oil pump bolts. How gay lol. I'm lucky its one on the bottom, that you can accrss without taking stuff off, because I literally NEED this car to be running right now. I'm moving in a few days from where I am right now, and this car is critical to that. Everything in Juneau is spread apart from itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 i dont know if someone already mentioned this, but there is access holes on the side of the engine to place a flat screwdriver into that will hold the crank steady via the flex plate/ flywheel. that keeps you from warping, denting or messing up the pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 i dont know if someone already mentioned this, but there is access holes on the side of the engine to place a flat screwdriver into that will hold the crank steady via the flex plate/ flywheel. that keeps you from warping, denting or messing up the pulley. That hole is on PS on flat surface above the axle. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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