xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 mmmh. Very strange then. Although I am not too acquainted with this device... I am using the btssm bluetooth sensor and never have any issue. I also use a vagcom cable for our second subaru and no problems there either. You should post your issue on the main btssm thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-p5601271.html#post5601271 The app developer is very responsive and will do his best to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 I'm probably not doing something corectly, I'll go to the btssm thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Spent yesterday checking all the hose connections around the intake tube. The only one that wasn't tight was the PCV hose so I zip-tied that one and a few others that didn't have hose clamps. No change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 Did you do the test prescribed in that thread I posted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 The pressure test? Yep I did and couldn't find anything. I did a lot of reading about the use of anti-seize on spark plugs . I did use a small dab on each one. I'm gonna pull them all and clean it off to see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 I would think if the sparks were causing a misfire or that stumble issue you are feeling, the ecu should detect it and this would show up in btssm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Still also working on getting the Btssm to work. It worked for awhile now it won't connect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 That sucks. I saw your posts on the other thread. Just wait a bit until 'heiche' replies it. Although the other guy is right; if you don't have windows to do whatever he suggested, you may be stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 And magically on My way to the Suby dealership for an alignment, the Btssm started working fine. My LV today next to learn % were 4.6 3.5 -.30 -5.30 and for the first time I have a # down in the timing correction. under 1.30 accross from RPM 0000 I have a -0.35. No misfires, a few random knock events at low RPM. Still idles bouncy. But runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 So that's a timing correction at a really low rpm range, basically idle. What is strange is how can you get a fairly medium load on the engine at such low rpm. Your fuel trims now show that your ecu is pulling more fuel at higher load than before, while adding a bit of fuel at lower load (e.g. idle/cruise). In general, when these values are positive and pretty high (e.g. > 8%), it would be indicative of a vacuum leak. When they get negative (i.e. <-8%), then it would indicate a boost leak. Yours are 'funny' cause the first two are positive while the last two are negative... In any case, here is a good read about how to understand/interpret the data from an lv: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic5371.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Thanks that's the info I need in that link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Executed the "blow in the vacuum source for the bypass valve' trick again and heard a faint noise just under My nose. Took the IC off and the intake hose from the IC to the throttle body simply fell off. There is an inner lip on this hose and somehow it got folded over and didn't get fastened tight. I put everything back together and re-did test and had air blow back at Me. Reset ECU and started driving. It still bounces at idle but zero knock events , all LV % were 4.10 or lower. No timing corrections. I think I have a winner. The bouncy idle must be normal and magnified by the soft Outback suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 If it is the stock throttle body hose, it may fail again especially if you run higher boost level. I had to change mine as it kept leaking no matter how many times I tried to put it back correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Since it was an easy fix, I will probably order a new one to have on hand. For now at least it appears that it was allowing some un-metered air in the loop. I drove the car 25 miles combo highway and stop and go and had zero knock events. That's the first time sine getting the BTSSM that I had zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 That's good. Usually a leak there would cause a boost leak though (air escaping), thereby making the air/fuel mixture rich (i.e. the ecu was planning to add a certain amount of fuel given it measured X amount of air at the MAF; but less than X got into the combustion chamber). So over time, it will try to deliver less fuel, which will make your trims become negative over time. When mine was leaking badly, I got all four trims pegged at -15% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Many people remove that rubber sleeve on both ends of the throttle body hose as well. You should still be able to seal just fine without that cover if you get the clamps on there well enough. Can't find a thread at the moment, but if you pull the hose off you should see what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 ^That is right. I had to do that until I got my AVO silicone hose (which I HATED installing ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 ^That is right. I had to do that until I got my AVO silicone hose (which I HATED installing ). Uh Oh just ordered a Cobb one, I guess the stiffness of the silicone makes it a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 ^ The problem was not really the fact that it was made out of silicone. It was simply the fact that the hose is not a simple replica (in terms of length, angle and stuff) of the oem one. So it was hard to find the right way to place the hose to fit the tmic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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