solidxsnake Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Make sure your timing correct, if you did just do a timing belt install. You could be off a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Make sure your timing correct, if you did just do a timing belt install. You could be off a tooth. This is very true too. Make sure all your timing marks on the cams/crank gears line up with each other, don't trust the belt marks, trust the gear marks. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 I feel good about the timing belt, the gear marks and belt marks were all right on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 So here's what I did. BTsSM showed mis #4. I removed plugs 2 and 4 , didn't see anything unusual. Decided to swap them since #2 is easy to get at and #4 not so much plus figured if the misfire moves I can assume freaky coil. Make the swap, start it up and no misfire showing. I let it warm up, rev it a few times and no misfire. I didn't have time to drive it but at least I have progress. All I can guess is when I installed the new plugs I somehow didn't get the #4 boot on the #4 plug correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 So here's what I did. BTsSM showed mis #4. I removed plugs 2 and 4 , didn't see anything unusual. Decided to swap them since #2 is easy to get at and #4 not so much plus figured if the misfire moves I can assume freaky coil. Make the swap, start it up and no misfire showing. I let it warm up, rev it a few times and no misfire. I didn't have time to drive it but at least I have progress. All I can guess is when I installed the new plugs I somehow didn't get the #4 boot on the #4 plug correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 nice. Keep an eye on it. If it shows up again, swap coils next. If it shows up yet again, swap injectors. If it still shows up, time to either check the valve clearance and/or do compression/leakdown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 nice. Keep an eye on it. If it shows up again, swap coils next. If it shows up yet again, swap injectors. If it still shows up, time to either check the valve clearance and/or do compression/leakdown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 O.K. I got to drive the car a bit with the BTsSM working. I checked the LV's 3 x 1st reading 5.7 1.2 -1.0 -2.2 2nd read 4.5 1.2 -1.0 -2.2 3rd read 4.4 1.7 1.3 -4.1 so there is something wrong somewhere. I had 5 knock events all of them between 2200 and 2500 rpm. So now I need to figure out what to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 These values are not too bad actually. If these values stay within +/-5% (some say +/-8%), then you may be free of vaccum/boost leak. It is normal for them to fluctuate a bit (emphasis on *a bit*). Did you have any learned knock values in your Timing correction table reported in the LV? Did you see zeros everywhere? And was your "IAM" equal to 1.0? If the answer is yes to the last two questions, then that is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Yes I had 1.0 IAM and zeros on the correction tables Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 It's just weird to feel the car bounce up and down a tiny bit at idle. Maybe the stock Outback suspension is that soft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 great to hear your values are all zeros and IAM is 1.0. That essentially means that the ECU has not pulled timing due to perhaps repetitive knock events at certain rpm/load ranges. Now, I don't recall you answered these questions yet: ok. How many counts are you getting? Does the misfire go away when fully warmed at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 The misfire is gone when warm, when cold I got I think it was 2 counts. No misfire now cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Are this many knock events normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 It depends in what rpm/load range they occured. You want to take note of those that occured in high rpm/ high load range. But if most of them occured in low load/low rpm range, then it could be just noise and should be harmless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 They were all 2200-2500 rpm , average acceleration. Thanks for Your help and the info on the BTsSM, that app is sweet. I'm an old school carb/NA type , My other cars are 1965 and 1970 so this Turbo is hi-tech for Me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 No problem. I am glad you are enjoying this app. If these knock events will occur again in that same rpm/load ranges, then most likely the ecu will 'learn' to pull timing in these ranges, which will show up in your LV. So pull them regularly, or put a live gauge called FLKC on your screen. If the ECU has learned to pull timing in any rpm/load ranges, this gauge will become non-zero. You can even have it make an audible sound whenever it occurs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Maybe this will inspire you a bit. Here is a screenshot of my current gauge set up. I am kinda on the ocd side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Heh that's awesome. My phone wouldn't be big enough for all those. Of course the only one I understand is ambient air temp. anyway. I'll just keep trying to figure out why the car bounces at idle. I must have a tiny vacuum leak somewhere weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 That's actually a screenshot from my phone (nexus 4). I can't remember; is your car completely stock? how about clutch, flywheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Completly stock 82k miles everything seems to work great. It just shakes at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 If you want, you can try this simple vacuum leak test. Read this post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4491795&postcount=1. It describes a simple method in checking for vacuum/boost leak. As for the shake, perhaps have your phone running btssm at all times with the misfire gauges, and see if a misfire shows up whenever the car shakes. I remember that's what was going on with my 05; it was misfiring just a bit but not enough to trigger the CEL. The car was shaking a bit at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Now the btssm is acting funny, doesn't want to connect all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 huh. strange. From what I've seen in the past, it is usually caused by a poor connection between the phone/tablet (e.g loose micro-usb port) and whatever you are using to pull ecu data. so check that first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Using bluetooth from Scantool obd lx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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