MilesA Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks for the update. When you use the spring compressor, it helps to secure it to a workbench once you have it on the strut assembly. A large bench vise works well. Use a lot of grease on the threads. Be very careful, people can get hurt with these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewski the Booski Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I'm still leaning toward a bad ball joint, tie rod, or endlinks/bushings. Also Bearings are remotely possible but they should be accompanied by a very loud ride. I guess it could be the strut but every bad strut I've ever encountered sounds like extreme rattling when going over even the mildest of bumps. Sent from my HTC Desire Eye using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewski the Booski Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 And you mentioned that your alignment is off. Just having bad alignment could cause an issue especially at extreme steering angles. Regardless it puts extra stress/wear on your suspension/tires Sent from my HTC Desire Eye using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I finally found the problem. The noise began as a powerful popping and as time went on it became less severe but much more common. I was under the car today and again had a helper move the steering wheel as now the clicking occurred whenever the wheel was turned and when I say the problem I gotta, say I was mad. The problem was the bolts holding the subframe where never torqued down by the guy who changed the frame rails for me and over a period of a few months they had gotten loose. I was mad first and foremost at the bodyshop because mistakes like this can be deadly, and secondly I'm mad at myself for spending so much money trying to fix it. To clarify, the bolts were tight (just not tight enough) when the popping first occurred so an instant diagnosis would have been damn near impossible. Mostly I'm just relieved that I finally found the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I'm glad you found the problem before something catastrophic happened. Did they had to move the subframe when they aligned the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 I'm glad you found the problem before something catastrophic happened. Did they had to move the subframe when they aligned the car? The car had new frame rails cut and welded in, the cut was past the subframe bolts but they still loosened them for whatever reason. I just got the front end aligned at les schwab for $60. The tech tried to charge me for a 4 wheel alignment because the front was off .4 of a degree and one of the back tires "was off by .10" of a degree. Of course .10 sounds like its bigger than .4 and if you're not quick on your feet they'l get you that way. I hoped the alignment would get rid of the newfound noise in the cabin but it turns out that wasn't the issue, oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 How much did they charge you for the alignment? Most alignments are a flat rate so no matter how quick it was adjusted, that's the price you pay. Sounds like the body shop didn't tighten it enough. Luckily it didn't strip out or anything along those lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 How much did they charge you for the alignment? Most alignments are a flat rate so no matter how quick it was adjusted, that's the price you pay. Sounds like the body shop didn't tighten it enough. Luckily it didn't strip out or anything along those lines. They did charge a flat rate, the problem was they tried to charge me for a 4 wheel alignment when I only asked for a two wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Congratulations on finding the problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Congratulations on finding the problem! Thank you everyone for helping out, its great to have a supportive community like this. Quick question though... The car seems to have developed a new problem, when the car is rolling/coasting there is a very audible noise coming from the transmission. It's like a rough hollow grinding sounds, sounds a lot like a bearing. Now theres no way anyone can tell me what went wrong in my transmission but there is a pretty big clue that may one of you guys has run across before. If the drivetrain is loaded (like when I'm on the throttle) the noise goes away completely, as soon as the engine is NOT pushing the car, the noise comes back. I doesn't matter what gear I'm in or if I'm in neutral, if the car is coasting, the noise is there. And the noise is pretty loud too, at highway speeds its not too bad because of all the tire and wind noise but at 15-30 mph its pretty loud, its even loud enough that my phone camera mic was able to pick it up when I had the car up on jack stands. Any ideas on why it only makes that noise when coasting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'm interested in hearing the sound if you're able to upload a video again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I'm interested in hearing the sound if you're able to upload a video again. Sure, of course a the lo-fi mic of a phone isnt gonna pick it up too well and you have to have somewhat of an experienced ear to distinguish between the engine noise and the transmission noise from a video like that. Headphones would probably help too. I feel like the noise does get dampened a bit and changes slightly when the wheels are actually rolling on the road but it is what it is. https://youtu.be/AXP3NX20_cw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 If there's anything wrong at all, perhaps it's the driveshaft carrier bearing? That said, my car has a very audible noise in the cabin whenever the drivetrain is loaded by the engine (i.e. in-gear, coasting) that sounds quite similar to that. It got considerably louder when I upgraded to Cobb front/rear shifter bushings with the Cobb short shifter. The shifter + bushing replacement also greatly amplified the high-pitched whine of 1st and 2nd gears whenever they are engaged. It's been there as long as I've had the car (about 35k miles now in just under 2 years) and I haven't had any issues, so I just assume it's normal. However, this may not be the same thing you're hearing, because I only hear it when there's a load on the drivetrain (as in, if I'm in neutral, the noise would vanish). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 If there's anything wrong at all, perhaps it's the driveshaft carrier bearing? That said, my car has a very audible noise in the cabin whenever the drivetrain is loaded by the engine (i.e. in-gear, coasting) that sounds quite similar to that. It got considerably louder when I upgraded to Cobb front/rear shifter bushings with the Cobb short shifter. The shifter + bushing replacement also greatly amplified the high-pitched whine of 1st and 2nd gears whenever they are engaged. It's been there as long as I've had the car (about 35k miles now in just under 2 years) and I haven't had any issues, so I just assume it's normal. However, this may not be the same thing you're hearing, because I only hear it when there's a load on the drivetrain (as in, if I'm in neutral, the noise would vanish). Your noise sounds pretty normal. The noise my trans is making can be described as rough and inconsistent, it's definitely not normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 I finally found the problem. The noise began as a powerful popping and as time went on it became less severe but much more common. I was under the car today and again had a helper move the steering wheel as now the clicking occurred whenever the wheel was turned and when I say the problem I gotta, say I was mad. The problem was the bolts holding the subframe where never torqued down by the guy who changed the frame rails for me and over a period of a few months they had gotten loose. I was mad first and foremost at the bodyshop because mistakes like this can be deadly, and secondly I'm mad at myself for spending so much money trying to fix it. To clarify, the bolts were tight (just not tight enough) when the popping first occurred so an instant diagnosis would have been damn near impossible. Mostly I'm just relieved that I finally found the problem. Any chance you could zoom out, or circle the area you're looking at in the pic you posted? Is it the subframe or the jacking plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahagr Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 Any chance you could zoom out, or circle the area you're looking at in the pic you posted? Is it the subframe or the jacking plate? These pictures should give you an idea. IIRC it was the subframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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