Darth SpecB Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 To offer a bit of advice from my rebuild last year... Fix that bolt now. I had the head snap on one, and figured I would be safe with the other 3, got it all buttoned up and running, and leaking coolant from the side that only had 1 bolt torqued on. Had to pull the intake manifold and all of that off in the car, pull the crossover pipe, drill the old bolt out, tap it, and install new hardware and o-rings again. One dumb thing is the little nub on the bottom of those bolts. Just to ensure I wouldn't bottom that one before it bit good thread, we cut off the nib, and I used loctite just to make sure it stayed... My bolt actually didn't snap off the bolt is fine, it's just the threads inside the block that are not enabling me to torque the bolt down. The bolt is all the way down but it just keeps spinning. Do you believe this will affect that? If so what can I do to lock the bolt down? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 To offer a bit of advice from my rebuild last year... Fix that bolt now. I had the head snap on one, and figured I would be safe with the other 3, got it all buttoned up and running, and leaking coolant from the side that only had 1 bolt torqued on. Had to pull the intake manifold and all of that off in the car, pull the crossover pipe, drill the old bolt out, tap it, and install new hardware and o-rings again. One dumb thing is the little nub on the bottom of those bolts. Just to ensure I wouldn't bottom that one before it bit good thread, we cut off the nib, and I used loctite just to make sure it stayed... Those 8mm pilot bolts are used in a few places on our cars but unless my memory is really bad, not on the coolant pipe flanges. You see them on the heat shields for example. I wonder if a previous mechanic lost a bolt and just grabbed what they had. The fastening should be a standard 8 x 1.25 mm flange bolt I think. Cutting the pilot off sort of gets you there. To the OP, it would be a miracle if that flange didn't leak without a second bolt holding it down. I think you're going to have to heli-coil it. Do you know a mobile mechanic that could drop in and do the job? Can you move the block to a machine shop? You could buy a kit and do it yourself but the kits are a little expensive and you may also need to buy a special drill and a second tap (bottoming) to complete the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Those 8mm pilot bolts are used in a few places on our cars but unless my memory is really bad, not on the coolant pipe flanges. You see them on the heat shields for example. I wonder if a previous mechanic lost a bolt and just grabbed what they had. The fastening should be a standard 8 x 1.25 mm flange bolt I think. Cutting the pilot off sort of gets you there. To the OP, it would be a miracle if that flange didn't leak without a second bolt holding it down. I think you're going to have to heli-coil it. Do you know a mobile mechanic that could drop in and do the job? Can you move the block to a machine shop? You could buy a kit and do it yourself but the kits are a little expensive and you may also need to buy a special drill and a second tap (bottoming) to complete the repair. Well since I'm paranoid from Colonado and your post, I will be pulling the intake manifold and cooling bi pipe and crossover pipe to access the hole for a helicoil insert. All while I wait for my new flywheel/clutch kit to come in. I keep messing things up and having to go back. How unfortunate but I'm glad you guys are here to correct my mistakes. Also I put in a new rear main seal that sits a little bit lower than flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Today I installed helicoil 6mmx100 on the coolant crossover pipe bolt hole. It seems I had to apply quite a bit of torque on that bolt compared to the other 3. I tightened it until the bracket that holds the water pipe/crank case breather stopped moving. Now to put the intake manifold/tgv/fuel rail back on which I believe is the hardest part. What is your method of installing the wire connectors to the fuel injectors? It seems the best way Is to pull off the metal bracket covering it since it is hard to maneuver around it. Also, one of the clips for the fuel injectors wiring connector broke off, so I'm hoping it doesn't slip off. BTW @birkoff the 8 pilot bolt was used for all 4 holes on crossover pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Wow, good progress! Even if it's something that needed fixed of re-done, it's still moving you forward in the right direction. In a few weeks/months from now when you're driving down the road problem-free, you'll look back on today with a smile. My '05 doesn't have those stupid metal brackets covering the injectors so I don't know the easiest way to work under/around them. I've done a little bit of work in that general area on an '08/'09 (can't remember), and those bracket shield thingies seemed pretty obnoxious. Can they just be removed and thrown in the scrap bin? Will you be able to zip-tie the broken connector firmly onto the injector? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Wow, good progress! Even if it's something that needed fixed of re-done, it's still moving you forward in the right direction. In a few weeks/months from now when you're driving down the road problem-free, you'll look back on today with a smile. My '05 doesn't have those stupid metal brackets covering the injectors so I don't know the easiest way to work under/around them. I've done a little bit of work in that general area on an '08/'09 (can't remember), and those bracket shield thingies seemed pretty obnoxious. Can they just be removed and thrown in the scrap bin? Will you be able to zip-tie the broken connector firmly onto the injector? Thank you, I am trying to stay positive and take it as a learning experience. I am debating on removing them or at least one, because on the driver side there is a ground that connects to it. It seems a zip tie Is my best bet atm or going to junk yard and stealing one off someone's future would have been perfectly good wire harness. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 My memory is getting really bad, apparently. It was only a year ago when I did my motor but I thought those bolts were 8mm. 6mm it is. I wonder why they use the pilot bolts? Quick job on that repair. You won't regret it. You are wondering 'how tight'? I made a habit of using a torque wrench on all the fasteners on my engine. For fasteners going into the block especially, and I was surprised how lightly they are spec'd. Most of the 6mm bolts are supposed to be around 5 ft/lbs which is almost nothing. Still, I've not had anything come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 My memory is getting really bad, apparently. It was only a year ago when I did my motor but I thought those bolts were 8mm. 6mm it is. I wonder why they use the pilot bolts? Quick job on that repair. You won't regret it. You are wondering 'how tight'? I made a habit of using a torque wrench on all the fasteners on my engine. For fasteners going into the block especially, and I was surprised how lightly they are spec'd. Most of the 6mm bolts are supposed to be around 5 ft/lbs which is almost nothing. Still, I've not had anything come loose. Surprisingly they are marked with an 8 at the top of the bolt but I believe that is the head size. 6mm is the actual diameter of the bolt x 1.0 thread pitch. I'm assuming a pilot bolt is used so it doesn't dig into the aluminum block. True all the other bolts torqued to the block are 5 ft lbs however the 1 bolt with helicoil was still sticking out and I had a feeling the cooling pipe would back out and still leak so I tightened it until all play was gone, all while praying I don't strip out the helicoil or damage the block again. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Nice job on the build. You've certainly met your amount of obstacles, but have surmounted them nicely. A pain now, but you've learned a wealth and got some experience under your belt. It'll come in handy when there is a bigger turbo on there and you are asking yourself why you did not go the forged route. The number on top of the metric bolt is not the size, but the general tensile strength of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Nice job on the build. You've certainly met your amount of obstacles, but have surmounted them nicely. A pain now, but you've learned a wealth and got some experience under your belt. It'll come in handy when there is a bigger turbo on there and you are asking yourself why you did not go the forged route. The number on top of the metric bolt is not the size, but the general tensile strength of it. Thank you, I am already regretting not going forged based upon what I have read. Supposedly if you have the right piston to wall clearances then 30k rebuilds are avoidable. Good to know about tensile strength! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 How much HP do you think you need ? will the car still pass the smog test in CA with all that HP to need forged pistons... I'm happy I stayed with a stock ej257. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 How much HP do you think you need ? will the car still pass the smog test in CA with all that HP to need forged pistons... I'm happy I stayed with a stock ej257. I am aiming for around 290-300whp. On a reliable tune. I already have catless down pipe CNT. Stock up pipe(catless). Stock turbo, rods, pistons. Between you and i, my car will not pass emissions legally. Now I am aware that stock cast pistons are not very durable when running high boost unless your running E85(lower temps). Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 What is your method of installing the wire connectors to the fuel injectors? It seems the best way Is to pull off the metal bracket covering it since it is hard to maneuver around it. Also, one of the clips for the fuel injectors wiring connector broke off, so I'm hoping it doesn't slip off. I am debating on removing them or at least one, because on the driver side there is a ground that connects to it. It seems a zip tie Is my best bet atm or going to junk yard and stealing one off someone's future would have been perfectly good wire harness. You can delete or keep the brackets. But yes, make sure you have grounds to the block and the intake. Zip tying your injector connection is not a good idea. Buy a new connector. This one is at Autozone for $16. http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-injector/aus-reman-fuel-injector/subaru/legacy-awd/2009/4-cylinders-2-5l-mfi-turbo-dohc/303636_207861_0 http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/aus/SUM-F/image/3/ Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 You can delete or keep the brackets. But yes, make sure you have grounds to the block and the intake. Zip tying your injector connection is not a good idea. Buy a new connector. This one is at Autozone for $16. http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-injector/aus-reman-fuel-injector/subaru/legacy-awd/2009/4-cylinders-2-5l-mfi-turbo-dohc/303636_207861_0 http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/aus/SUM-F/image/3/ If I reroute the ground to the intake manifold, it might be a problem since it's plastic. Thanks for the link, I will buy a new connector. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 If I reroute the ground to the intake manifold, it might be a problem since it's plastic. Thanks for the link, I will buy a new connector. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Yeah I forgot the Legacy has the plastic intake mani. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 OEM flywheel came with a pilot bearing. Exedy clutch kit Part#: FJK1001 How the engine sits atm... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Nice and clean My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Very nice. Much cleaner than mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I'm having problems getting the engine to transmission bolts all the way in. I can thread them in by hand and they start to become hard to turn even with a ratchet when it's 3/4 the way in. I'm afraid to strip out the aluminum in the block. The engine is mated with the tranny. Any tips? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I found the culprit. Apparently some bolts are longer than others. So I switched a few around and they went in smooth. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I found the culprit. Apparently some bolts are longer than others. So I switched a few around and they went in smooth. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Been there and done that on my first rebuild! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 I got the motor running today. I primed the oil system using the starter for 20 second intervals x6. With the sparkplugs out. Fired her up. Adjusted some belts. Added fluids. Then she purred like a kitten. Ran for 20 minutes. Drained oil. Refill + filter. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58b68d4bcf77b/Snapchat-1543162980302481430.mp4 At this point I would like to thank Max Capacity, Birkhoff, StkmlTS, Sgt.Gator for the helpful tips and knowledge to help me get through this! Took her out for a drive. 60 miles into cruising I get solid check engine light, traction control, flashing cruise. Went 55 the whole way home. First thing I noticed was oil dripping down onto the up pipe. I am suspecting valve cover gasket, which was replaced but on the area of exposure no rtv silicone was used. Possibly oil return hose. I knew I should have replaced that and the clamp. 5w30 has the consistency of water. I checked the oil level, still full. Did I overfill? 5qts. I ran the codes P0011 left+right bank. Cam sensors were cleaned prior to assembly. No Banjo Filters were used. Oil lines were cleaned and flushed via brake clean. 2 brand new oem OCV's. AVCS gears were taken apart and cleaned via parts washer. No leaks to turbo oil feed line Zero shaft play However do hear a slight howl around 2.5k rpm or above(bad bearing?) Slight white smoke coming out of tailpipe while idling. (Catless dp?) Or 2nd turbo failure? Nisrina has turbo inlet, catless DP, and no tune as far as I know. Tune is the next step after everything is running smooth. I will verify the source of oil leak tmrw. Clean maf sensor Check turbo oil feed line for oil flow while cranking Contemplating purchasing BTSSM Bluetooth adapter + app to view camshaft angles/avcs function, as well as view log data. Sent from a galaxy far far away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Ouch but congrats...its still progress and I know it kinda sucks but you will get it sorted out...Great Job man! It sure does suck! The girlfriend was excited to go to the beach, but ended up going home in a uber. The P0011 code is scaring me to death because the last(first) time my turbo exploded the same code was thrown, but I have done everything I could think of to keep it alive. Maybe I am overreacting and there is something small I am overlooking. The codes are erased so I will wait to see if they come back. Sent from a galaxy far far away. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Check and make sure the AVCS cam gears were assembled correctly. That problem pop's up every now and then. Good Luck http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cams-eternally-broken-lgt-oil-cannon-256514.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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