wpmarky Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 just got back on the forums and saw this thread. can't wait to see results! I got plans for my wagon this year too =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 Started pulling parts off the 05 sedan so I can put wheels in it to move it around. Need a small parts bin system. Already have 4 types of screws and bolts just taking off the fenders. At dealer prices, I've saved $50. For later: - 235/40/17 bfg r1 fit on a stock 05 sedan. I can't get my pinky between the tire and the strut, but it didn't hit when lowered to the floor. I guess that means it works. - Fenders come off with a 10mm socket. Use that before ruining the #3 Phillips fitting on the rusted bolts under the top of the door. - Just because you standardize your lug nuts, don't assume anyone else did. This car uses 19mm and 18mm. Wth? - cleaning the cabin of the 05 sedan, found any number of bullets and shotgun shells and beer cans. - the fender support system is crushable and pretty weak. I thought the front fender braces were bling. Now, I'm not so sure. Wondering what the rules say about reinforcing with metal that looks like tubes. The welds to hold on the OEM supports look ok, however, the metal thickness is not enough. There is room to box in the structure for more support. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Optimist's post: Rose City Opener May 2017 plan it could happen - March 2017 Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Optimist's post: Rose City Opener May 2017 plan it could happen - March 2017 Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 I keep joining subaru FB groups hoping to find more parts. Might have found an sti engine that I can drop in for less than the cost of a new block. Waiting on the leakdown and compression test results. Found a nice solution for intake manifold - Forsa Intake manifold (https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2780740). The company is no longer in business, so would need a used setup. Contacting owner to see if they would share plans to make a one-off (and use Sgt.Gator's murray clamps). Still trying to find something that the car needs that I could make and/or resell to pay for some part of racing. Pulling parts off the sedan and looking at how the front structures go together might help the racecar, but not much for a street car. Heading to California this week to pick up another engine (which has all the top of engine parts). Going to try and stop by an engine builder down there, too. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 If you are thinking of doing forward facing you can't with any of the common Dry Sump solutions. You'd have to use a Dailey dry sump.....which requires custom headers. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 If you are thinking of doing forward facing you can't with any of the common Dry Sump solutions. You'd have to use a Dailey dry sump.....which requires custom headers. Once I accepted the tmic wasn't a viable option (TA cars all use them, I bow to the inevitable), pushing the limits of FMIC is next up. The more I watch the Kyle.Drives video, the more I think there's a better way. Just not convinced the LGT is the best platform to experiment on. I'm sure that's news to you, Sgt.Gator. The wrecked sedan needs new front subframe to driveable. How hard would it be to cut off the old rails, add a tube frame front with a bit of extra out front to allow more room for fmic/turbo/rotated manifold/etc? The Forsa kit had an alternator alternate mounting option. Which might fix the interference with the dry sump pulley. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Once I accepted the tmic wasn't a viable option (TA cars all use them, I bow to the inevitable), pushing the limits of FMIC is next up. The more I watch the Kyle.Drives video, the more I think there's a better way. Just not convinced the LGT is the best platform to experiment on. I'm sure that's news to you, Sgt.Gator. The wrecked sedan needs new front subframe to driveable. How hard would it be to cut off the old rails, add a tube frame front with a bit of extra out front to allow more room for fmic/turbo/rotated manifold/etc? QUOTE] Sounds like your looking to make a real race car. Tube front end is serious. Do you have a frame jig ? We sent the Civic off to a shop to have the front end tubed. You want the car tracking true at race speeds. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Sounds like your looking to make a real race car. Tube front end is serious. Do you have a frame jig ? We sent the Civic off to a shop to have the front end tubed. You want the car tracking true at race speeds. I don't. However, there is a welding shop down the road who builds nice cages for local racers. I was going to have him do the cage for my black wagon before I bought the miata. I'm kind of playing around with ideas. I never had the space or an extra car to look at some other way of doing something before. I'm trying to re-enact my 15 year old self and learn from scratch what works and what doesn't. My 15 year old self was way more random than my current self. Since I brought the sedan home, I've been looking at it as a prototype for fabbing a race car. It'll likely never see a race as the tube front end makes it illegal in nearly every series except the highest levels of racing (TA unlimited, Thunderhill 25 E0, ICSCC GTx, etc). Giving up on the "build an engine" idea for the short term as I want to get on track sooner. Looking at a pulled running engine on Wednesday. If I can get a couple track days in to get a feel for the car, I'll be able to make a better guess on what to do with the car. Have been talking to Mary Fields' shop about building a race motor. Have to go back to work to finance that, tho. Tradeoffs suck. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Hear good things about Mary's shop. To stay in the rules, how hard would it be to get a junk yard front clip ? Or go drag racing, tube front end, LS swap. LOL The service manual link has a body shop book if I recall http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ I'm more then welling to help you spend your money ;, god knows I've dumped way to much into the civic back in the day. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 I like their "we race what we sell" policy. Rules are explicit about the tube frame piece. Getting a new front clip is not hard (several NA cars in junkyards around here, or can buy cheap rollers). The rules for most of the classes I would be interested in competing in (non-stock turbo is a must in my book and punts the car into non-production class almost always) say the body must be "substantially the same as an OEM car". Given that vague description and no one parks a LGT next to the race car, no one is going to notice a slightly longer nose or a higher grill angle or etc. <brief pause while I actually read the "body" section of the manual> <longer pause for the drama to build...> Yep, probably should have actually read the section instead of skimming the section titles. Sigh... Actually downloaded all the vacation pics. The FSM I've been using is missing the body repair section, so I had assumed I'd have to buy parts, measure them, and figure it out. Much enlightenment has just occurred. Thanks, Max. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Here's the strut brace we had made to go with all the inside bars, there were braces through the firewall to the back of the shock towers and the outside of the car looked "substantially stock" http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCF0748.jpg See, stock hood and mirrors and front bumper, doors and body shell. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSC_0445.jpg I guess the rear shot...you could say its not stock. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSC_0382.jpg Sorry for the walk down memory lane, that was a fun time for my son and I. That was back in 07 or so. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 John, Focus on getting one of the wagons up and running before you have dreams of making your parts car another race car! Get the Silver Eagle back up and running so I can play crew chief at the Ridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Come on Johnny , you can do eet!! My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 The Forsa kit had an alternator alternate mounting option. Which might fix the interference with the dry sump pulley. The alternate mounting option moves the Alternator to the former A/C compressor space, which is where the dry sump pump goes. That's why it won't work forward facing unless you can make it work with the alternator in the stock location. John, Focus on getting one of the wagons up and running before you have dreams of making your parts car another race car! Get the Silver Eagle back up and running so I can play crew chief at the Ridge. Where have you heard this before? Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Squirrel!!! Cancelled the portland stop. The Berkeley stop had enough pieces. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hey Boxkita, I think this brings up a good point regarding engine building. Starrett, Mitutoyo, and Brown & Sharpe are all respectable manufacturers of accurate and precise measurement instrumentation... There are some useful reviews of measurement tools here, from a tool repair shop in business since 1960: http://www.longislandindicator.com/index.html Their opinion on micrometers: The cheap stuff carries various names, some of them quite well known, such as SPI and Fowler. These respected resellers can give you the false impression that you're buying something of quality, even though you're paying only a fraction of the price. You ought to know better. Major imports from China and Poland sell "by the boat load" according to one big catalog house. Another one counters that "Yes, and they arrive already rusty." Polish micrometers either have no name on them, or the word Poland, or the brands Lincoln or VIS. Chinese micrometers can carry any name. Swiss Precision Instruments (SPI) sells these and one has to wonder what these micrometers have to do with Swiss and/or Precision? The problem with unusual brands - even if they're very popular in their country of origin - is that parts are probably not available when repairs are needed. PAV (Präzisions-Apparatebau Vaduz) micrometers are made in Liechtenstein. If you want these repaired, you may have to plan a vacation abroad to that charming mountain principality. Not a bad business expense deduction, eh? Mahr micrometers made in Germany are of very good quality and quite expensive. Parts are, or should be available from Mahr-Federal in Rhode Island but they have a high minimum purchase which can make these repairs problematic. Swiss made Tesa, Etalon (and some Brown & Sharpe) micrometers are the cream of the crop and parts can be gotten through Long Island Indicator Service. If you can afford it, these would be the ones to get. Digital models, however, may not be economically repairable, regardless of their original cost. American made Brown & Sharpe micrometers are made by S-T Industries (Brown and Sharpe no longer makes anything of their own). They very obviously lack the finesse of their European cousins. Swiss-made Brown & Sharpe micrometers are the only ones we genuinely recommend. They'll cost a bit more but they'll last longer and you'll feel better. Designed for the professional. Forget all others. Scherr-Tumico now goes by the name S-T Industries. They pioneered the "tubular" frame which allows for lighter weight micrometers of extremely large sizes. These American made micrometers tend to be on the cheap side and it often shows. However, you may have no other choice for a particular application such as enormous diameters. Central Tool of Cranston, Rhode Island, makes micrometers aimed at the automotive industry. They're on par with the other American made micrometers. Fowler sells some quality Swiss gages under the name Sylvac. Fowler also sells a lot of Asian junk. Polish indicating micrometers are also sold with the Fowler name on them. Spare parts are hard to get or not available and service is probably not possible. Mitutoyo offers mechanical micrometers for all budgets and parts are easily available. The digital models won't be repairable if the models are obsolete, which happens about every 3 years. Mitutoyo is an innovator in digital measurement so if you're looking for the latest technology, look no further. Mitutoyo indicating micrometers use epoxy to hold the anvil bushings in place. Unfortunately, this epoxy softens with time (and oil based solvents) and the micrometer will lose accuracy. Rubber bellows are supposed to keep the solvents away so don't remove them and replace the bellows if the rubber deteriorates.. Standard Gage is a brand name which you will now also encounter on inexpensive Chinese tools. It used to be one of the American stalwarts but has sadly been bastardized over the last decade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Squirrel!!! Cancelled the portland stop. The Berkeley stop had enough pieces. So $800 (cost + rental truck + gas) & 42 hours of my life I can't get back, I've a long block with b25 heads. Based on that experience, any future buying trips will have a delivery truck picking everything up to deliver direct. Getting the motor out of the suv will be tomorrow's project. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I found a race car for you http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-subaru-impreza-3/ My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I found a race car for you http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-subaru-impreza-3/ That's an impressive build. He must have $75K-$100K or more in it. A little caution on the "needs a tune", but it has all the right parts. Dry Sump-Air Jacks-AIM Pista-Dog Box...... Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 I found a race car for you http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-subaru-impreza-3/ Current bid 12,500. It seems a little small to sleep in, tho. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 There are some useful reviews of measurement tools here, from a tool repair shop in business since 1960: http://www.longislandindicator.com/index.html Their opinion on micrometers: After reading this I went back to HF. The best precision they have is .001 or .03mm. Then I started looking up prices for better stuff. Looks CL'ing for retired machinist's garage is my best bet. Met up with a buddy who works in high tech and has a brother who owns a machine shop. Which means his machine shop tools are pretty good. I can't afford to buy them, however, I can use them on a limited basis. Going over for a look see tomorrow. BTW, Grizzly has their annual tent sale on May 6th. Maybe I find a good deal on Bridgeport knockoff. still need to find a really good set of measuring tools. For about $100, HF has a setup, but it doesn't tell if everything is fixable. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 So $800 (cost + rental truck + gas) & 42 hours of my life I can't get back, I've a long block with b25 heads. Based on that experience, any future buying trips will have a delivery truck picking everything up to deliver direct. Getting the motor out of the suv will be tomorrow's project. So unloading the motor and not destroying the inside of the truck was more hassle than I planned on. It turns out the scaffolding system is still useful. It was about 10 minutes using the scaffolding. Had the truck back with 10 minutes to spare. Note on this drama: 3 days with little/no sleep takes is toll. I overslept and completely blew my schedule. On the flip side, I get why there are no 2 driver Thunderhill teams. Not that I was driving the truck too fast for conditions. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Current bid 12,500. It seems a little small to sleep in, tho. That's what your two wagons are for.... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Current bid 12,500. It seems a little small to sleep in, tho. It would be a great ICSCC SPM car or NASA ST1. However at Thundehill 25 you'd be up against the Flying Lizards. http://mediacdnopen.cincopa.com/20161202-b-3203.jpg?o=4&res=4075&cdn=ec&p=y&pid=816952&ph3=lzuftuqbfgidolpmbi0r2sgj0oxhfris!EXP165715200&d=AsDA7AAJz4AAG8S3AQ_NBKE Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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