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Ultimate Race Wagon build


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The very well funded flying lizards. Their pit setup was drool-worthy.

 

More Flying Lizard Thunderhill 25 awesomeness:

http://www.lizardms.com/gallery/2016/thunderhill2016.htm

 

I could let the auto scroll in a picture frame all day!

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Trying hard to resist bidding here.

 

I could use a back up car though.....

 

Hmm, maybe if I sell the Spec B.....:rolleyes:

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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After reading this I went back to HF. The best precision they have is .001 or .03mm. Then I started looking up prices for better stuff. Looks CL'ing for retired machinist's garage is my best bet.

 

Met up with a buddy who works in high tech and has a brother who owns a machine shop. Which means his machine shop tools are pretty good. I can't afford to buy them, however, I can use them on a limited basis. Going over for a look see tomorrow.

 

BTW, Grizzly has their annual tent sale on May 6th. Maybe I find a good deal on Bridgeport knockoff. :lol:

 

still need to find a really good set of measuring tools. For about $100, HF has a setup, but it doesn't tell if everything is fixable.

 

A decent set of micrometers, for light use, and under $100. Worth your time I think, to read the buyer reviews there:

https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Micrometer-Precision-Machinist/dp/B0045UZGSC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491538750&sr=8-1&keywords=anytime+tools+micrometer+set

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A decent set of micrometers, for light use, and under $100. Worth your time I think, to read the buyer reviews there:

https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Micrometer-Precision-Machinist/dp/B0045UZGSC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491538750&sr=8-1&keywords=anytime+tools+micrometer+set

 

One of our lucky dog teammates is going to Japan next week. I'm building a list of Japan only tools to bring home.

 

JDM spec screwdrivers, metric measuring tools, etc

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One of our lucky dog teammates is going to Japan next week. I'm building a list of Japan only tools to bring home.

 

JDM spec screwdrivers, metric measuring tools, etc

 

Can you read Japanese? :rolleyes:

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Can you read Japanese? :rolleyes:

 

Make sure you get the special JDM left handed screw driver.

 

Oddly enough, I have relatives in Japan so reading Japanese is a txt msg away.

 

Folklore from Americans who come back from Japan is JDM screwdrivers are slightly different than American versions. More precise. IDK. All my Subaru are US built, so this more of a gold-plated tool than anything.

 

The Japanese metric measuring tools? That's more interesting, especially when everything on Amazon is 1/1000th's of an inch instead of 1/100th's of a mm.

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There's a Japanese standards organization (JIS) that specified screwdrivers dimensions. In theory you can get JIS screwdrivers from lots of manufacturers over here, but I dunno how closely US manufacturers adhere to the spec. And of course JIS screwdrivers only help if you're using them on JIS screws. :)

 

I heard Craftsman Philips drivers are JIS but I have no idea whether that's true.

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swapped 50% of the old lights out for LED. Should have done that first, of course the lights weren't on sale then. I can actually see things.

 

Had to buy another set of wheel dollies to move the sedan out of the way. Pushing it with only the front wheels dollied was too much effort.

 

Unless something goes horribly wrong, the wagon is moving to the garage this week. Then I can start tearing it down to find out why it failed.

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  • 5 months later...

Looking at the engine failure in the Silver Bullet, at first glance, it appears the timing belt and/or idler pulley failed. Regardless of the actual failure,I need a new TB kit.

 

m sprank posted up this kit he's using on his TB swaps. It matches what Mary Fields is using at awdtuning, too. From this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gates-timing-belt-kits-no-longer-oem-like-p5637564.html#post5637564

 

The "N" kit supposedly contains an NTN tensioner. I have not verified. I am done with Gates timing belt kits.

 

When we originally noticed the change in tensioner we stopped using the kits at the shop. But it has taken some time to put together the kit we now use. While Aisin is the OE supplier of water pumps to Subaru, they do not supply any of the other parts. The OEM belt is Gates Japan. Gates USA belts are considered aftermarket. NTN makes the tensioner and NTN/NSK makes the idler pulleys.

 

The kit we now use at the shop is put together with OEM and aftermarket parts.

 

 

  • 13033AA042 OEM Tensioner NTN
  • 13085AA080 OEM Cogged Idler NSK
  • 13073AA142 OEM
  • 13073AA230 OEM Idler NTN
  • 21111AA240A Aisin or NPW Water Pump
  • 13028AA240B Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

While Aisin is the OEM water pump supplier I have no issues with the NPW. Either one works great. Mitsuboshi does not make the OEM timing belt for Subaru, but they do make the accessory belts for Subaru, so it is "close" to OEM. This "package" of parts costs us about $35 more than the Gates kit (at cost). So, the out the door price for a timing belt service has not changed, but you get the best parts we can find.

 

Maybe this info helps a "do it yourself-er".

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On the race car I would use the cast impeller OEM water pump. The old style one.

21111AA026 Cast is less likely to cavitate at extended High RPMs.

 

I don't know if this Rallispec JDM Closed back cast pump is any different from the old style 21111AA026:

 

http://www.rallispec.com/eng_wpu_rstr0350.html

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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My street car uses an older cast style water pump for that reason.

 

Looking at changing how the accessories are driven since engine speeds will average much higher than OEM expectations. Using under-driven pulleys should cut down on issues with cavitation and over-rev.

 

Also looking at street rod solution for driving alternator...off the driveshaft or rear differential.

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