gimpydingo Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Big post: I had a head gasket leak that was repaired last Oct, since then I have put only 6000 miles on the car. The last two times I have driven the car the temp gauge climbed to below the top 1/4 mark, where it usually sits at just below half. Circumstances. On my way home from work, I have about 15 - 20 miles of slow and go freeway traffic before I start a 7 miles hill climb. At the end of the climb (same spot every time) the temp gauge rises. This time when stopped on the hill of my exit the temp gauge started to drop (I assume the fans) and finally after a few minutes of sitting idle I was back in moving traffic and the temp gauge went back to normal. The heads were replaced, six star gaskets, everything machined. I did burp the system after the first time the temp gauge rose, no bubbles during idle/fans/thermo opening, once the car started to cool a few bubbles came up. I did have the passenger side jacked up. I did it again and no additional bubbles. I do plan on doing this again today. Stg 1 tune, Perrin TMIC are the only things done to the car. Thoughts??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Burp it again. It sounds like you may not have pulled out all of the air the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Check that the cooling fans runs. The thermostat and water pump are also on the suspect list if you are sure the system is burped. Thermostats go bad from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 May be think about stopping a repair shop and have them check the radiator neck for HC. They'll be able to tell you if you have exhaust gases in the coolant system. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 Thanks. I plan on burping again. The thermostat and water pump are new, but something to consider. Fans definitely come on and the lower rad hose gets hot. I do have hydro carbon test, which really showed nothing when I had cracked heads, but yes could have a shop give it a check. I'll be calling the shop that did the work on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Just because the thermostat is new doesn't mean it's good. I have experienced it myself. And some thermostats can be installed the wrong way, but I'm not sure if that's applicable for Subie thermostats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Understood. I am thinking the thermo is working because when the fans come on the rad fluid level drops in the funnel in the turbo tank, telling me it's opening. I did have some foaming when I was burping the system, did it a few times, think I got the air out. Going to give it another go tonight when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 It's one thing that the thermostat opens, another that it opens fully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 It's one thing that the thermostat opens, another that it opens fully. Is the only way to check that to replace it? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 You can remove it and boil it in a pot to see how much it opens, but considering the price of a thermostat and the work involved it's easier to get a new one and install it. Just make sure it's installed correctly. Some thermostats have a small air vent hole that shall go to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 What he said ^ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 The mechanic that did the work has the car and is looking at it. The stage 1 tune I have was not specifically tuned for the Perrin TMIC. From research it doesn't seem this would be any cause of the overheating, just not as efficient as it could be, correct me if I am wrong?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Going to add my 2 cents here, since I had numerous issues with my coolant system. 1) Could you smell coolant at any time while driving or stopped at a stop light/sign? 2) Did you check the fluid levels each morning (cold motor) before you leave? 3) Did you check the engine bay for any signs of coolant leaks? 4) Have you check the reservoir while the motor is hot and running for any bubbles? Tip: When you notice the temp go beyond normal, turn on your heater inside your car on full blast. This will act as a secondary cooling system and helps to keep the coolant from overheating. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 1) Could you smell coolant at any time while driving or stopped at a stop light/sign? No 2) Did you check the fluid levels each morning (cold motor) before you leave? Yes, levels are good 3) Did you check the engine bay for any signs of coolant leaks? No leaks 4) Have you check the reservoir while the motor is hot and running for any bubbles? No bubbles Tip: When you notice the temp go beyond normal, turn on your heater inside your car on full blast. This will act as a secondary cooling system and helps to keep the coolant from overheating. Thanks for this The mechanic has looked at this as well and is unsure at this point. So he is going to recreate my commute, since I know exactly the spot on the road where it happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Let me know what you find. My car can have similar behavior. Although, mine is usually high ambient temps and high RPMs cause it to overheat. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 You've probably checked this, but check your rad return hose. mine was collapsing while driving. It was a Dayco part and I replaced it with an OEM part. Haven't had the issue since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 I had burped the system, no collapsed hoses. I've check during/after a drive as well. It's only gotten hot twice, then right to the mech after that. Really can't be the heads again in 6k miles could it? I mean I guess it could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 Let me know what you find. My car can have similar behavior. Although, mine is usually high ambient temps and high RPMs cause it to overheat. Well I'm driving from Milpitas to Santa Cruz, usually on hwy 17 stop and go in Los Gatos for a while and slow, then speed up to 30 - 40+ for the next few miles until I just about hit summit and it starts to overheat. Temps outside 85 - 95 degrees, rpms in the 3000 - 4000 range at the high end during some of the climbing. In your case even with ambient temps and high rpms, shouldn't be overheating?? How high does the needle get to? I'm wondering if the TMIC has major heatsoak and the hill climb isn't helping. I don't have the perrin splitter for the TMIC. I was thinking of getting some high temp weather seal and making a seal for the scoop/TMIC to make sure as much air flow is going through the TMIC as possible. Thoughts on that issue/solution? But I would think this would have already happened when I got the car back. Prob overthinking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Well this sucks. Mechanic says he can't find any issues with the car, he's had it a week now. Just a bit frustrated with no additional answer. And of course moving this weekend, so won't be near that mechanic if anything else goes sideways. I'll work on getting better air flow to the IC and see if that has any impact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Saying possibly the coolant temp sensor. Not so sure about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin M Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 I recently was having issues with overheating while driving. RPMs typically 2500-3500, high ambient temps ~90* + high humidity (thanks Texas) and with the AC on just the first setting, my temp gauge would start to climb. I could turn the AC off, and it would go back to normal op temp. Ended up getting the Koyorad Hyper-V rad + cap and had a shop do some ducting work. Now my temp runs cooler than it ever has and never rises even with the AC on full blast. Edit: I'm running an FMIC so not entirely the same setup. But perhaps you're on the right track with improving the ducting for your TMIC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 I recently was having issues with overheating while driving. RPMs typically 2500-3500, high ambient temps ~90* + high humidity (thanks Texas) and with the AC on just the first setting, my temp gauge would start to climb. I could turn the AC off, and it would go back to normal op temp. Ended up getting the Koyorad Hyper-V rad + cap and had a shop do some ducting work. Now my temp runs cooler than it ever has and never rises even with the AC on full blast. Edit: I'm running an FMIC so not entirely the same setup. But perhaps you're on the right track with improving the ducting for your TMIC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks. While diff setup, still high temps 90+, sitting in traffic before a hill climb. Humidly in the mountains while not high, still fairly humid. Once I get the car back I was planning on putting back the OEM TMIC (not concerned about it leaking for testing) and after seeing the results put the perrin back on and make a better splitter or something for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 Coolant drained, thermostat replaced. No real change that I could see. Driving I could see the needle go up slightly, still sitting a bit below half, but not where it normally is. After more research I see people (besides cutting their engine cover) using high heat foam or garage seal to make a better seal from the scoop to the IC. I'll prob put my orig TMIC first as I mentioned to test it out, since it's easy enough to swap out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I recently was having issues with overheating while driving. RPMs typically 2500-3500, high ambient temps ~90* + high humidity (thanks Texas) and with the AC on just the first setting, my temp gauge would start to climb. I could turn the AC off, and it would go back to normal op temp. Ended up getting the Koyorad Hyper-V rad + cap and had a shop do some ducting work. Now my temp runs cooler than it ever has and never rises even with the AC on full blast. Edit: I'm running an FMIC so not entirely the same setup. But perhaps you're on the right track with improving the ducting for your TMIC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Any pictures of the ducting you can share? Coolant drained, thermostat replaced. No real change that I could see. Driving I could see the needle go up slightly, still sitting a bit below half, but not where it normally is. After more research I see people (besides cutting their engine cover) using high heat foam or garage seal to make a better seal from the scoop to the IC. I'll prob put my orig TMIC first as I mentioned to test it out, since it's easy enough to swap out. Still a little unsure why you think the TMIC would cause the engine to overheat. Are you able to monitor your actual engine temps? Sitting a bit below half is about where it should normally sit. Driving around here my temps are rock solid 190. When I stop they go to 200. Driving over the mountain passes through the Sierra's I can spike them to 210-215 though.... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 I can check the coolant temps in RR, anything else you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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