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kaluce

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Everything posted by kaluce

  1. Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the 2005 - 2009 USDM dual zone HVAC system without navi? I'm talking about the two connectors not relating to audio. I think they're i17 and i88? I have a dumb 'because I can' project. I have my old head unit from my OBXT, and I was thinking of tacking it to an arduino or RPI to use the head unit as a way of controlling some blower fans, maybe audio output, etc, for my sim rig. It's dumb as hell, but I got parts around that are taking up space and I have no intention of using them again in the car, so why not. I guess it would also work to reverse engineer the HVAC control system, I guess. What I do have already is the audio connector courtesy of David Carter (ae64.com): Audio connector setup: 1: Illumination+ - (+12v ‘switched’) 2: RF speaker + (if using a tweeter, connect in line) 3: LF Speaker + (if using a tweeter, connect in line) 4: RR Speaker + 5: LR Speaker + 6: +12vdc memory (+12v ‘constant’) 7: Illum- (Pot to gnd) 8: RF Speaker – 9: LF Speaker – 10: +12vdc accessory (switched) 11: GND 12: RR Speaker – 13: LR Speaker – 14: power antenna: (No Connect) HVAC setup: i88 connector: ?
  2. I'm interested in this as well because I have the random 800-300-1000-800~ RPM shudder on idle. It's not all the time either. Providing ANY gas what so ever 'fixes' it and get it back to normal. I have another shudder around 2300 RPMs, but supposedly that's the fuel pump.
  3. I replaced the springs, struts, boot, and tophats in the back already. KYB Excel-Gs on both sides with new OEM LGT springs. it was fairly cheap all total (~$300 in parts). But the sway bar bushings, and endlinks are both shot, hence the reason why I was looking at replacing it anyway. Most of the bushings are pretty bad back there, so I've been replacing them as time and money allows.
  4. I have a 2005 LGT suspension swapped OBXT, and I was thinking about getting a rear sway bar upgrade because I need to replace the bushings and endlinks pretty badly anyway, and like all my best ideas "because I'm there" is a valid enough reason. Is there a cheap-ish OEM upgrade (off a WRX wagon or something) that I can fit without having to go Whiteline? The only things I saw when I googled were for the 15-19 Outback, no longer manufactured, or rather expensive for what they are.
  5. @Max Capacity, it was my first point of call since it's usually the most reliable (albeit sometimes roundabout) source of information. It's surprisingly unhelpful for the sunroof though, which I found odd. Says check the switch, it should be <1 Ohm per connection. That's pretty much it. Doesn't offer anything in the way of what fuses to check or what to test on the motor to see if it's working. @Jaylew, I'm thinking it's going to have to be the motor assembly then. The gearing inside spins freely, and while it's not quite one finger open and close the glass, it's far from hard to open or close either, especially after cleaning and greasing the track. Kills me that it worked ONE LAST TIME, and then I didn't get anything out of it. Not even the relay in the motor clicking.
  6. Awhile back I noticed my sunroof refused to open. For testing purposes, I tried manually opening and closing the roof. When I tried turning the gear it was incredibly difficult to do so. I figured it was debris in the track holding it up since I was torquing the hell out of the hex to get it to move. This was a couple months ago and due to rain, snow and everything else, it fell to the way side and I left it alone. It was closed after all and I fixed the missing bolt, so I didn't need to worry about exhaust fumes. Last Saturday, I ripped apart the entire interior of the car to get to the sunroof motor as I'm fixing all the little issues in the car while I have time. While I was in there, I tested every fuse and wire from the passenger side A pillar to the motor and to the sunroof switch in the front of the car. I plugged everything back in after degreasing and greasing the entire track and it worked once. Then it went back to not working again. Fuses 4 and 24 checked ok. IG1 and IG2 Relay have to be OK because all the other windows open. continuity tested cables check all the way from the A pillar all the way back, strong signal on each. I'm assuming it's the "smart motor" in it that went bad, but I have no idea how to test, or what voltage to run through it for testing.
  7. In my case, they were rusted all the way through and welded themselves to the arm. Slicing the bolt on either side and hammering the remaining bit out of the ears was all I could do.
  8. I agree with Max on the diagnosis. You've most likely bent your valves. You can try doing a compression test to confirm it. If you have a USB scope you can try and see how the pistons look from inside the spark plug holes. But you running it like that makes it sound like it's hosed. If the diagnosis is correct, You're looking at a full engine tear down and rebuild. You'll likely need all new heads, and a new set of pistons on one or both sides. You might be REALLY unlucky and blew metal fragments all through your oil galleys. If you did you'll notice some metal frags in the pan and or oil filter. If this happened, add the turbo and anything that touches oil to the replacement. It'll save you time and effort down the road when it fails from ingesting metal too.
  9. Check all of your grounds. Specifically the ones that are by your TGVs. If those grounds are loose then you'll get those. I had the same thing awhile back. Edit: I tossed a bunch on, since grounding the engine is good, and a few more grounds won't hurt. Make sure you have a few different grounds on the engine. I know there should be two under the body (driver and passenger frame rail that connect under the heads), one's by the dog bone/transmission, 2 big ones by the driver side TGV, the battery itself, and I think there are's one near the water pump. I tossed some wherever I could. so long as it's stranded wire and you put dielectric grease on top of any exposed ground cables (like crimps) and screws so you don't get too much corrosion, you should be fine. NY snow rotted ALL of my grounds under the car. I used 10ga and included a service loop, which is honestly probably overkill.
  10. I lowered my obxt awhile back, and as part of it, I installed the LGT stock wheel sizes. My speedo is off now. Is there any way to calibrate the speed sensor without installing an LGT cluster? I read through older threads, and it looks like there was some sort of a gear assembly in the pre-CAN WRXs, but that doesn't seem to exist in the 05-09 generation. It looks like it's something calculated on the cluster itself on these models.
  11. I just wanted to follow up. I did the suspension swap about ~1k miles ago or so. I was told that my alignment bolts were too rusted to actually do anything with, so I chopped the rear arms off and replaced all the hardware with new, so it took me awhile. Here are my thoughts. 1. Alignment is needed almost immediately after doing this. It drove like crap until it was done, and it's absolutely terrifying hitting a bump like that. Fix this before anything else. 2. I knock my head against the tailgate now, that kind of sucks. 3. It's REALLY low compared to the stock suspension. I removed the subframe spacers and did a "true" conversion. My exhaust hits if I'm not careful when driving up sharp angles, but I don't have an LGT bumper, so I can't run an LGT exhaust. 4. While I did the suspension, I also found a 2011 STI steering rack at the junkyard for $50. I cleaned it up, replaced the tie rods with new LGT rods, and is substantially quicker than the stock OBXT rack. It's drop in even without replacing the rods or lines, so once it's adjusted you should be good. That said you will need the stock OBXT U joint to do it successfully. 5. I put on Legacy sized tires since my OBXTs got a flat. My cluster is pretty off now, but I don't know by how much yet (~17% I think?). I've just been driving at the same speed as everyone else until I can clock it properly. Supposedly it cannot be calibrated and it's set that way from the factory. I highly doubt that, but I don't want to tear apart my cluster. So I was thinking of getting an LGT cluster to poke at and see if I can figure out anything, hopefully they have a JTAG interface and I can dick with it. All in all I don't know what the hell to call my OBXT anymore, it's such a mish-mash of parts.
  12. From what I can tell, if you've gotten an alignment at all during the life of the car, you hopefully will be fine because they should've used anti-seize on the bolts. But whoever owned the car before me never heard of anti-seize apparently. Really though, most of the hardware on my car has been rotten as I've removed it, it's unsurprising that this is the same.
  13. Sure. This is for a 2005 LGT/OBXT wagon, It should be the same for all 05-09 MYs and the same for the sedan. I won't know if the arms include the bushings until tomorrow night, but they're pretty cheap at ~$3 per, so buy them anyway. why the **** not. Here is everything you might need. Honestly, the hardware is peanuts compared to the price of the arm itself ($45-ish from Subaru Genuine Parts) so you might as well get everything at once. I think for both sides WITH all the hardware it came out to around $110 shipped. This list is PER SIDE, which means order two of the below if you want everything. Rear Lower Control Arm: 20250AE01A LCA to subframe hardware: LCA Camber Bolt: 901700122 LCA Camber bushing: 20254AE01A LCA Camber marked guide washer: 903100171 LCA Camber washer: *(20560AA011 ; 20560AA010) LCA Camber nut: 902350006 LCA to Knuckle: LCA to Knuckle nut (huehuehue): 902350006 (This is the same as the LCA Camber nut above) LCA to Knuckle Bolt: 901000110 (*looks like there is 2PNs for this, I included both but one might supersede the other, IDK.)
  14. Bought a new set of arms, bushings, nuts, washers, and bolts. I started rounding the bolts. I've gotten past the point of diplomacy unfortunately and I'm going to have to slice the fuckers off now.
  15. It's going to be hard. I originally looked into doing it myself on my OBXT with the EJ25 and I was able to get a full T-boned WRX as a doner car, so virtually none of the interior was usable, but the engine, transmission, and diffs were good. 1. The engine mounting point miiiiight just fit. They're definitely a different PN. if they don't fit, you'll have to fabricate new mounts, or manage to drill and reenforce the stock mount, which wouldn't be super difficult, but would require welding and modifications. 2. The trans mounts will NOT fit, and would require custom fab. The 6mt/CVT is a completely different design. 3. The Exhaust would need to be custom. The FA20F will fit in a LGT engine bay (we are able to put the EZ in the bay, after all), but at minimum you will need to have a custom exhaust made. 4. The intake system would have to be a custom setup too. You could go FMIC to ignore the hood scoop issue, but that would be custom piping. 5. The 6mt on the WRX/LGT is cable actuated, NOT direct like the older 5mts. The 6mts in the newer LGTs are also NOT spec-b parts, and they're not as strong as a STI or SpecB transmission. You won't gain much here except an extra overdrive gear. 6. The gain on this would be only a few ft/lb of torque and hp, the real upgrade would be the fuel economy and a newer engine design. 7. You would likely need a custom ECU to run it, or at minimum some method of mounting the new set of gauges to your old dash. The FA20F is a fully CANBUS design, so the gauge cluster *might* work. That said, if you are able to do it as a swap, document and take pictures of it, because when it's done it will definitely be unique.
  16. I actually didn't round either side's nuts yet, but I've shattered a HF socket wrench trying to get it off, admittedly doing something extraordinarily stupid. Honestly, I'm thinking about taking it slow and grinding the nut off would probably be the best, if MTB is correct. it seems honestly like it would be the easiest. I also considered dropping the rear subframe out of the back of the car and slicing the bolt off from the top to avoid dicking around near the fuel tank. Considering I had the entire suspension apart for my OBXT to LGT surgery (and thus it wouldn't be that bad to get it all apart), but I didn't really like the idea of taking the driveshaft down again, and it seemed like a lot of work for something that should be easy. I also considered buying and using an air chisel, since I saw an S2000 suspension video where the guy tapped it and it just came apart like butter. I don't know if that'll work on our cars though.
  17. I finally got around to doing the Outback XT to LGT suspension swap, and tried to get an alignment last week. The shop I went to said that the alignment wasn't going to happen due to the toe nuts and bolts being rusted out. Anyway, I took a look and tried to get the rear toe bolts off, since I found those early on. They are REALLY in there, and there doesn't seem to be a way to get them off. I can't cut them because the rear diff is close by, and I'm worried about torching them for the same reason. How does one normally get all these frozen bolts off?
  18. Could we force a rule that you can't use Photobucket? All I see are Error 500s.
  19. I was in the process of doing this, and I want to add some fresh hardware. I looked up the diagrams and got this. I've already got bushings, but is there anything else you recommend adding to this list? Rear (per side): 902350001 x2 (tophat to body) 902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension) 031012000 x1 (washer for "0027) Rear Lower (per side): 901000177 x1 (suspension to LCA Bolt) 900335056 x1 (suspension to LCA washer) 20550AA010 x1 (suspension to LCA nut) Front upper (per side): 902350013 x3 (tophat to body) 902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension) 20326AA120 x1 (tophat cap) 20320AG00A x1 (tophat - if needed) Front lower (per side): 20540AA090 x2 (camber bolt) 20560AA04A x2 (camber washer) 20550AA010 x2 (camber nut)
  20. Referring to this diagram: http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B13_05001575.png Part 1AC33 seems to connect directly to the BOV and to the intake header using the small nipple on the left side of the intake manifold. If that's the case, what the hell attaches to the Blue Tee?
  21. Just a quick question, the OBXT's stock rims are 17x7.5 with a 48mm offset. will they fit these brakes, or would I need to shave the caddie calipers as well? I need to buy new tires anyway, and the rims are all sorts of fucked, so it's not much different to me, but I just want to know ahead of time. Edit: after reading everything, looks like I'd need a 10mm spacer.
  22. Absolutely. Please see attached. Mine is shattered, but it should be good enough to get the idea.
  23. Mine was shattered by the previous owner into 4 pieces, so it's going to require some fancy rebuilding to get it looking right. The positive thing is, ABS is pretty cheap, so I can reinforce it a bit more than the OEM part is.
  24. Shot in the dark, did anyone have the model for the E brake boot frame complete? I can print it, I'm just waiting for my caliper to come in.
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