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Is the factory tune really that bad?


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Hi all,

So I'm pitching my '07 Audi A4 Avant as the maintenance is killing me and buying a clean low mile OBB Outback XT manual from a fellow forum member. The car is mechanically bone stock. My goal here is pretty much keep it that way as I already have a 300whp '05 GT wagon that is dedicated track car, (but still street legal). The Outback will be my daily driver and I'm really fighting to keep it stock since I already have my "fun" car. The Legacy has been on a custom dyno tune since the day I bought 11 years ago so I have no experience with the factory tune on these cars. Can anyone comment on whether the factory tune is really that bad? I'm staying with stock power levels and keeping up on everything else I know needs to be done to these cars maintenance wise. As long as I don't turn up the wick power wise what do you think?

 

I guess I could throw a DP on and buy another Accessport, take it down to Cobb for another custom tune and call it good at stage 1-ish but I REALLY would rather not. That money should be going into saving up for a dedicated rim / Hoosier tire set up for the Legacy :)

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If you're staying stock, the only thing I'd say needs to be changed is the closed-open loop delay. I would just get a Tactrix OP or VAG-COM cable (depending on if you have an 05-06 or 07+) and change the tune myself. The stock AVCS maps could be changed a little bit too for some better fuel efficiency, but otherwise, it's not like the car will self-destruct if you don't retune the stock tune, despite the general theme of horror on the forum.

 

Not to dissuade you from doing business with Tuning Alliance, since they are a phenomenal bunch. Just saying that if you're not looking to upgrade and just want to keep the car stock, if you're set on tuning it I'd do it myself or just have someone with OS do it for you for cheap since, as you said, the extra bucks could go to a set of Hoosiers :)

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If it has a converter in the up pipe, change the up pipe. Eliminate the EGT with the resistor mod. Put a conservative tune on it, and drive it for a very long time. You'll find it will run better and smoother and get better fuel mileage, plus you won't have to worry about ringlands or valve burning issues.

 

If the down pipe/catalytic converters are OK, then don't worry about them. As long as the engine is in solid health, the converters are designed to run indefinitely.

 

Keep up the maintenance and enjoy it here for long time. ;)

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You can trust the TA tune to give you a smoother reacting car. Mikes tunes smooths out the power curve. The engine becomes progressive, pushing you back in the seat and holding you there. It won't hit and jerk you back in the seat.

 

I guess you know about the banjo filter and shaft play on the turbo.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for the info guys. Pretty sure '07+ is catless in the upipe so should be good there.

 

Yup, banjo filter will be pulled and I'll keep an eye on the usual shaft play issues.

 

As for tuning, I guess thats the rub. The AccessPort route as always been so seamless to me. Just wish I didn't have the fork out the cash for a second one for my daily driver. Once I do that, then it just makes sense to drive it 20 min down the road and have Cobb Surgeline do a dyno tune. I'd be half tempted to continue to run even the stock DP but wow, throwing down cash for an AP and a tune seems to only really make sense if you can swap out to a better DP :(

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There was a huge increase in drive-ability going from stock to Stage 1 (aka no downpipe). It was amazing how much better the stage 1 tune was over stock.

 

I agree with you though. If you are already buying an AP+dyno tune might as well add + downpipe.

 

The torque is awesome at Stage 2 (which you already know). They banjo filters have a different orientation in the 08s. Mine were clean at 120k miles and my turbo was in fine shape (replaced it with a VF52 when my engine went just because)

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Yeah... I don't see the point of getting an AP unless you actually want to throw a DP on the car and get it tuned for more performance. If you're just looking for stock power/longevity, just get a Tactrix cable (<$150) and do the small changes in the tune yourself (plenty of info on the forum, and/or people here to help you), or get a solid Stg0/1 map from a good etune vendor (hint: TA). Then if you ever do want to start modding the car, well, then you can go ahead and get an OS tune, or buy an AP then and get tuned that way.
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Oh forgot to mention yes a 2008 OBXT has a catless up.

 

I have been using OS / Tactrix for years now. It works really well. Might be able to find someone around you who will let you borrow their cable.

 

The flashing process can be a little clunky (the first time), but it works really well and is pretty seamless once the tune is done.

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