Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car

[Sgt.Gator]

hmmm.... their site seems to be down. maybe due to the rush of traffic you just caused.

It's working for me.

 

I don't know why, and I can't justify spending the cash, but I want those.

 

More bits: https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/plumbing-and-fittings/

[StkmltS]

.

[shralp]

Fingers and toes crossed for you on the Dyno session!!

[Sgt.Gator]

The Blue Sake Bomber is very close to ready. They are replacing a torn power steering boot, testing the Blip Shift, and sealing up the inspection plate on the back of the Aviaid pump (3rd time).

 

Meanwhile:

 

More FMIC progress. Josh at ArcFlash here in Bend is doing the TIG work. Some others here are using his dash solution. Here's a shout out for him. www.arcflashllc.com

 

Passenger (Cold) side with the hood on:

 

 

Driver Hot Side with Hood and Wheel/Tire:

 

[Sgt.Gator]

Side Piping:

 

...

[Sgt.Gator]

The Blue Sake Bomber had a pretty good day at the rack yesterday! 3 hours, about 200 miles of track on the break in tune.

There were a few minor problems that are expected and one medium one. The medium one being we installed an Auto-Blip at the same time as the engine rebuild.

 

The first lap on the track came to a slow stop when I popped a CEL for throttle sensor voltage and went into limp mode. I reset the ecu and tried again, another half lap and the same thing. I knew it had to be the Auto-Blip, the second time I was careful to note that it happened exactly when the throttle was lifted, the clutch was in, the brakes were on, and the gear shift had moved. Those are the requirements that kicks in the Auto-Blip to blip the throttle. Instead it set off the CEL and limp mode. I went back the paddock, read the instructions, didn't see anything obvious to fix it, so i unplugged the Auto-Blip wires that tap the throttle position sensor wires. Everything ran fine!

 

I think the engine is broken in enough to re-tune with it's race tunes. The problem is getting on the Surgeline dyno between now and Friday, for the first race at PIR Saturday/Sunday. Even if it doesn't get on the dyno I'll still race it in the 1 hour mini enduro on Saturday. Winning is not the main goal and would be impossible with the rpm ecu redlined at 5,500 rpm and 11lbs of boost. But at least I'll place, get some points towards the Championship and be back in the game!

[Sgt.Gator]

The BSB is at Surgeline. They promise they'll find time to get it tuned even if they have to stay late Friday night. Great customer service Surgeline!

 

The plan is to race in the Enduro only on Saturday. I'll be running the maximum range tune. Hopefully I'll be able to go a full hour without a refuel. I'm using the race as the final break-in for the engine. With the max range tune it should right at wastegate psi, I'm guessing about 270 HP. At that power I have no chance of winning in my class but I don't care, I just want to run a full race, get some points, and finish the break in tune. If any of ya'll are around the Enduro starts around 4:00 PM at Portland International Raceway.

[shralp]

I'll try to pop down to say hi!

[boxkita]

Go! Gator, go!

 

Have a conflict, so not going to make it to see you race.

[shralp]

All was well halfway through Gator's hour long enduro when I left, hope it finished up well!

[boxkita]

Looks like someone upgraded their safety gear, too. :-)

[Sgt.Gator]

It went very well, and great to see Eric and the little one at the track!

 

Practice, qualifying, and most importantly the one hour Enduro went off without a hitch!

 

I was running waste-gate spring pressure, about 12 psi all day. It was really tempting to go to 20 psi for the race but I forced myself to keep my goal in mind. To break in the engine, watch the temps, listen to the sounds, and finish the race! All accomplished.

 

I went 100% on the 12 psi and had no problem keeping up with my buddy Zack in his Spec E46. I hung on his bumper for three laps. Then I noticed my gas was going fast and I wasn't going to make it the entire hour on a full tank at that rate. Part of the plan was to see if I could go a full one hour on the 12 psi tune. Well not at PIR in a no chicane race. So I backed off to 80% throttle and concentrated on watching gauges, and not getting taken out by the faster cars.

 

Coolant never went over 190. The tranny maxed out at 160. Oil pressures were good, even during the mandatory pit stop for 60 seconds it stayed at 25 psi on idle. It's never done that before after a hard run. The oil temp stayed under 200 almost to the very end.

 

The last 5 mins I kicked it back to 100% WOT to see what kind of lap time I could set at that psi. After the checkered flag I noticed the oil temp had hit 230. I'm thinking the Perrin headers were probably glowing cherry red and heating the oil filter. The headers are plain, Perrin won't warranty them if you wrap or coat them. So I'll get a standoff DEI wrap and see if that protects the oil filter from the heat. Maybe some kind of heat shielding too.

 

The low on gas light came on just as I entered the pit lane, perfect timing! When that light comes on I only have about 1 or 2 laps before cornering forces cause superlean conditions.

 

I'll be adding an auxiliary fuel cell just for the one hour enduro problem. The extra 4 gallons should get me all the way thru a race at 20 psi.

 

On other notes:

The Auto Blip worked great. It's not as smart as a GCU, it has it's limitations, but it sure worked nice. Made for very smooth and consistent shifts in most corners. You still have to manually blip with your foot in some conditions, specifically when you downshift but don't use the brakes. The AB only works when you are applying the brakes. For now I recommend it for track and race cars.

 

Also in the race were a Stohr and a Radical. OMG that Stohr was fast! He would come out of nowhere, faster than even the corner workers could get out their passing flags to let you know he was coming. I almost took him out in Turn 6. I didn't know he had come up next to me, he's so low and fast he was all of the sudden there as I went to the corner exit. I later heard he was passing everybody on the outside of turn 6. I think he lapped the second fastest car which was ungodly fast too. He really needs a flashing light on top of his roll bar if he's going to keep doing Enduros with the Tin Tops.

 

I'm glad I installed one on Pearl. A 1,000 lb car has no chance against a 3,500 lb one when they don't see you. It's not so much an issue at HPDE days where most organizations require point bys, but in racing it's different. Whenever I saw him coming I would try to give him a point by just to be sure he understood I knew he was there.

 

Two cool cars in the paddock. The AMG broke his CF nose splitter in qualifying so he had to take out his backup car, the Mustang GT4. The Mustang was the second fastest car in the Enduro and still got lapped by the Stohr, maybe more than once.

 

Edited May 7, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

A couple of more notes on the new engine: It's identical to the last one except the heads are oem. The previous had BuiltEJ Stage 1.5 heads, which means ported and polished but oem sized valves. The difference on the dyno is 20HP less on the new engine.

 

I found this solution for the oil filter heating issue. It's funny, the Corvette guys have been using this type solution for years and I knew that but sometimes my thick head compartmentalizes my NA LS-7 solutions from my Turbo EJ257.

 

They don't make one for our small size, so I'm trying the next size up, 504703.

 

 

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-oil-filter-heat-shield

 

The Mobil1 M1-108 filter for our EJs is 2 1/2" tall x 2 1/2" diam. 200 grams.

 

The K&N HP1008 filter is 3" tall x 2 1/2" diameter, but only because of the wrench nut. The actual filter media size is the same. 210 grams

 

The Purolator Boss PBL 14615, the filters I use now, are 20% larger at a full 3" tall x 2 1/2" diameter. They are also substantially heavier at 252 grams.

[SBT]

Any reason not to use the Tokyo Roki Mazda RX8 filter?

[Sgt.Gator]

Any reason not to use the Tokyo Roki Mazda RX8 filter?

 

I hadn't heard of that, thanks. Except now you've got me reading a 23 page thread!

 

The most interesting part is that the 2012 Forester XT EJ255 use oil filter part number 15208AA160 seems to be identical to the RX-7 filter! I'm still reading though.

 

The extra length is not an issue in the car because I don't use the Subaru water- oil heater cooler, so there's plenty of room for the longer filter.

 

Thanks, I think!

 

In checking the Purolator Boss, it's the same 14615 for the 2012 Forester as above.

Edited May 8, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[Flinkly]

Any reason not to use the Tokyo Roki Mazda RX8 filter?

 

i was wondering the same thing the whole time i was reading the last few posts. that, and how most aftermarket filters aren't made to Subaru spec (which probably doesn't matter as much to a race engine).

[SBT]

The main take-away from that thread is that these filters are the exact same specs as the Subaru longer version and therefore has extra filtration media.

 

The critical point IMHO is the by-pass relief valve opening specs, which some (most) AM filters don't meet. For your 05 STI it's 160kPa or 23.2psi. Additional specs are attached.

 

You cannot beat TR filters, all Made in Japan, for quality and durability in demanding, high performance environs. Bob's the Oil Guy has a whole write-up on these, and I believe that link is in the RX-8 filter link above.

[SBT]

What does matter to a race engine is clean oil, and having a by-pass relief valve open prematurely and allow unfiltered oil into the rest of the engine under high stress/high load is pretty critical.

 

Subaru oil pumps put out a lot of oil, at fairly high psi rates for the volume so filter media design and execution, tailored specifically to Subaru's engine specs, is equally critical to managing PSID and concurrently its impact on overall flow, across the filter.

[boxkita]

Mirkko had a Moroso remote filtration unit on his Alfa a few years ago. 200mm wide screen with no bypass. He ran an oil filter after that. Claimed it would keep the Alfa alive for the entire race.

 

Looking for the pics, because I envisioned needing such a metal trap too.

[Sgt.Gator]

The main take-away from that thread is that these filters are the exact same specs as the Subaru longer version and therefore has extra filtration media.

 

The critical point IMHO is the by-pass relief valve opening specs, which some (most) AM filters don't meet. For your 05 STI it's 160kPa or 23.2psi. Additional specs are attached.

 

You cannot beat TR filters, all Made in Japan, for quality and durability in demanding, high performance environs. Bob's the Oil Guy has a whole write-up on these, and I believe that link is in the RX-8 filter link above.

 

FYI From Purolator regarding this to another customer:

 

Purolator

Dear Mr. Smith,

Thank you for your inquiry. As promised, we have researched your application question and the details are as follows.

 

Subaru made a specification change requiring a higher PSI setting for the pressure release valve for certain vehicles beginning with the 2012 model year. As this change was made, Subaru also made the decision to consolidate the higher PSI setting to include earlier applications (1987 – 2011). At Purolator, we are committed to providing our customers with product that fits and performs to the exact specifications as defined by the OE manufacturer, and it is our policy to follow the OE recommendation. For this reason, the 1987 – 2011 Subaru applications were updated in our electronic catalog to specify the L14615 instead of the L14612. Both filters are identical with the exception of the PSI rating of the pressure release valve.

[Chris GTO TT]

FYI From Purolator regarding this to another customer:

 

Purolator

Dear Mr. Smith,

Thank you for your inquiry. As promised, we have researched your application question and the details are as follows.

 

Subaru made a specification change requiring a higher PSI setting for the pressure release valve for certain vehicles beginning with the 2012 model year. As this change was made, Subaru also made the decision to consolidate the higher PSI setting to include earlier applications (1987 – 2011). At Purolator, we are committed to providing our customers with product that fits and performs to the exact specifications as defined by the OE manufacturer, and it is our policy to follow the OE recommendation. For this reason, the 1987 – 2011 Subaru applications were updated in our electronic catalog to specify the L14615 instead of the L14612. Both filters are identical with the exception of the PSI rating of the pressure release valve.

 

Interesting considering the 08 service manual specified the so-called new higher bypass pressure 3+ years before it existed...

[Sgt.Gator]

I got a nice surprise a few minutes ago. I took Second Place in the Mini Enduro! I had no idea, but two other faster cars than me had problems.

 

The above Red Mustang GT4 took 1st place in our MEO class. The car that was in 2nd place, a white Porsche GT3, must have had a problem somewhere during the race because he completed 37 laps. Unfortunately for him I completed 39! LOL!

 

And I ran a pretty decent fastest lap time even on wastegate boost, a 1:20.7. That was the third fastest lap time of the 21 cars in the race. Turn up the boost Mr Scott!

 

Next race is May 19-20 at Pacific Raceways outside Auburn WA. I guess I better be there in the Mini Enduro on Saturday May 19, I'm in second spot for the championship! Hope to see some of you PAC NW guys there.

 

Hmm, I may have to run in the ST class too, give those guys some competition!

Edited May 11, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[xt2005bonbon]

Congrats!

[SBT]

Good to hear. Congrats.

[Sgt.Gator]

Joshua Murray at Arcflash is doing some great work on the 818R. Here's his ducting progress for the FMIC and Radiator:

 

......

 

And to pay for Josh's work don't forget to order your Murray Constant Tension Turbo Seal Clamps from my eBay page! Here's a recent ProDrive built WRC Audi, they've been using the Murray clamps for many years on all their builds:

 

 

http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing