Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car

[Sgt.Gator]

The Blue Sake Bomber started exhibiting pad knockback in the brake zone at the bottom of Valkyrie hill at ORP last month. That was the only place it occurred in the beginning, but then it progressed until this last race at PIR it was doing it at the end of every straight. I figured it was the wheel bearings giving out so I took it into Subaru of Bend for all 4 wheel hubs to be replaced. 3 of them were in relatively OK shape, but the left rear was toast. It was definitely time for new hubs.

 

At the same time I figured it was time to replace the Stoptech ST60 Aerorotors. That did not go nearly as smooth. So if you have a Stoptech BBK pay attention to the following!

 

The StopTech website is awful for figuring out replacement parts. Do they tell you there are different caliper widths on the ST-60? No. The engraving on the rotors is very poor. Sloppy to the point of numbers looking like letters and numbers that look like other numbers. Trying to figure out what was engraved on my rotors vs listed part numbers was impossible. Do they tell you how to figure out which ST60 caliper you have so you know which Aerorotor to order? No. And many more issues I have with the way they list their parts....

 

RallySport Direct sells the Stoptech ST60 355mm BBK kit for Subarus. On their website they sell only one version of the Stoptech ST60 355mm Aerorotor so I assumed it was the correct replacement. It's Not! The one they sell is 35mm wide, the Subaru ST60 uses a 32mm wide rotor. I found out the hard way it was not going to fit.

 

Then when you check lots of vendors you discover the part numbers end in .01; .87; .99 with the exact same dimensions listed. What's the difference? There's no explanation anywhere!

 

I emailed Stoptech customer support, who forwarded my inquiry to Zeckhausen Racing. Dave Zeckhausen and I traded emails, what a great resource he is! Following are excerpts from those emails that may be useful to some of you:

 

What is the meaning of the last 2 digits of the rotor ring part number?

 

01 = Rotor ring with no mounting hardware. It's simply a rotor ring, sitting in a box.

87 = Rotor ring with MAX-float mounting hardware

99 = Rotor ring with standard mounting hardware with anti-rattle function

 

There is no physical difference in the rotor rings. It's only the hardware (or lack thereof) which changes with the part number.

 

Which rotors do you need? You'll always want rotors with hardware included, since the mounting hardware should not be reused.

 

If your car is race-only, you want part numbers ending in ".87". In addition to the normal radial float (growing & shrinking with temperature changes) this MAX-float hardware allows about 0.4mm of axial float, meaning the rotor is free to move in and out slightly. This can help reduce pad knock-back occurring under extreme sideways tire load. If you use rotors with this style of hardware on the street, you'll hear a rhythmic "click" "click" "click" at low speeds, especially on exit ramps. It won't hurt anything, but it will be annoying. And every uninformed tech who gets their hands on your car will want to tighten the "loose" hardware and will end up snapping off the screw heads.

 

If your car is used for a mix of track and street driving, you probably want rotors with standard hardware, with part numbers ending in ".99". This hardware uses beveled washers at each of the 10 mounting points to act as springs and resist in-and-out axial movement, while still allowing unconstrained radial float.

 

355x32mm AeroRotors with MAX-float hardware:

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=737.1101.8+or+737.1102.8

 

355x32mm AeroRotors with standard hardware:

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=737.1101.9+or+737.1102.9

 

Here's a more detailed set of installation instructions for the StopTech AeroRotors that I wrote up:

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6447

 

The part most people miss is that the thread locking compound is applied AFTER the rotors are assembled finger tight, at which point it uses capillary action to wick its way down the threads. Only after that happens (a minute or two), do you start using the torque wrench to tighten the screws.

 

What do people do wrong?

 

1. They apply the thread lock before assembly, which acts as a lubricant and then gives a false torque reading.

2. They assemble AND torque the screws before applying the thread lock to the tips of the screws, which prevents the compound from wicking into the threads.

 

Finally he sent me a link to the parts diagram page at his website:

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24_217_7228_7229

 

Kudos to Dave Zeckhausen for helping me out. He is going on my A list of vendors to do business with in the future.

 

Next Race is this weekend at The Ridge in Shelton WA. I'll for sure be in the 1 Hour Enduro, maybe the ST or SPM races too.

[Sgt.Gator]

In other news:

The 818R is at Surgeline in Portland getting tuned. They ran into issues with the injectors. It turns out they are DW 650s and they just would not tune consistently. After two hours of chasing the tune on the dyno we pulled it off and are replacing them with ID/Cobb 1050x injectors.

 

Another unanticipated issue was the fuel pressure. It was too high. We thought it had an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator in the Outfront Motorsports billet fuel rails but on closer inspection we discovered it's the oem regulator. It can't handle the increased pressure of the FITech surge tank pump. https://fitechefi.com/products/40007/

 

So on goes an new regulator....

 

I'm racing at The Ridge this weekend in my STI so it will be a little while till I can get the 818R on track. Possibly Sept 19-20 at ORP. This weekend may be interesting at The Ridge, I see Retro Racing's 818R will be in the Enduro with me and the Dragonfly center drive 818RSR will be there too. Three Subaru powered cars in an endurance race is some kind of record, especially if we all finish it!

[Sgt.Gator]

This new video is worth watching:

 

Old VS. New EJ Cam and Timing Belt Comparison & What to Look For

 

Edited September 13, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

At The Ridge race I had a problem: The vac line from the intake manifold to the BOV popped of the intake manifold. It's an aftermarket silicone hose that is much slicker than an oem rubber hose. It's done this before but apparently the addition of a zip tie wasn't enough.

 

So with no BOV opening the IC silicone hose connector at the throttle body popped off. One lap into the race and no boost!

 

I pulled into the hot pit and my crew found the BOV hose off and re-installed it. They didn't see the IC connector had slipped of the bottom of the throttle body. Back on the track...still no boost.

 

Back into the hot pit and they looked all over engine but didn't spot the problem. I went back out and ran 99% of the race with natural aspiration. This is only possible with a speed density tune. A hybrid or MAF tune and you're engine comes to a quick stop and won't start. The same thing happened to me in the Silver Eagle, in the same race, in the same raining conditions a few years ago. Only it had a hybrid tune and so that was that.

 

The "good" part was it was pouring down rain, which helps equalize the low powered cars with the high powered ones. However if I'd been running with full boost I probably would have taken second or possibly won the race. I ended up 4th in our class.

 

If you've never raced wheel to wheel in the rain the opening lap Turn 1 is a moment you'll never forget. Midpack, you know there are 10 cars in front of you less than 1 car length apart, and 10 more behind you the same. As you hit 80 mph on the front straight they all disappear and you pray everyone in front of you is hitting the brake zone/turn in at the right place because the best you can do is follow taillights. Here's the opening lap last Saturday at the The Ridge ICSCC One hour Enduro. And the odd thing is I love racing in the rain. I wish 50% of our races were in a downpour!:

 

The BOV vac line now has a fuel injection clamp on it!

 

Last race of the season is the weekend at Portland International Raceway, the Cascade 2-4-8 Hour Enduro race. I'm pitting with the Retro Racing Team. The Blue Sake bomber is entered in the 2 Hour and the 4 Hour Enduros. Retro drivers will drive for part of the two and four hour races. Then I'll crew on their 8 hour entry.

 

If you'd like to come out and help we can probably use some spare crew hands. PM if you'd like to be on the pit crew for the Blue Sake Bomber and Retro's new Honda K powered Miata.

[ehsnils]

Forget about zip ties, use real hose clamps.

[Sgt.Gator]

This is a very interesting set of videos on Diff covers. I guess I'll be sticking with the OEM cover and just adding cooler lines to it rather than an aftermarket one.

 

[boxkita]

Vis-a-vis a conversation from your last race, saw engine pics from the levorg race car. It has a dry sump with a custom fitting for the oil filter.

 

Article on the levorg

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1608962

[ehsnils]

This is a very interesting set of videos on Diff covers. I guess I'll be sticking with the OEM cover and just adding cooler lines to it rather than an aftermarket one.

 

I think that the group B cars had a dedicated diff oil cooler.

 

 

But a temp sensor in the diff could be good.

[Sgt.Gator]

Vis-a-vis a conversation from your last race, saw engine pics from the levorg race car. It has a dry sump with a custom fitting for the oil filter.

 

Article on the levorg

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1608962

 

Great article. 12 engines is bit out of my budget, but you probably have 12 blocks sitting around the shop now!

 

I love BTCC. http://www.btcc.net/

 

http://images.pistonheads.com/nimg/34611/BMR_Subaru_031-L.jpg

 

They use a wet sump + Accusump, or at least they did in 2016. I don't know what they have for the 2018 season:

 

Specs Here: http://www.teambmr.co.uk/btcc-subaru-levorg-gt-team-bmr

Edited September 27, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

I think that the group B cars had a dedicated diff oil cooler.

 

 

But a temp sensor in the diff could be good.

 

The STI has an oem diff sensor and warning light in the dash. Mine has never turned on yet. This winter I'm going to swap it out for a real gauge and watch it to determine if I need a cooler in longer races.

[boxkita]

The STI has an oem diff sensor and warning light in the dash. Mine has never turned on yet. This winter I'm going to swap it out for a real gauge and watch it to determine if I need a cooler in longer races.

 

You could add a sensor and log it for later, too. Although maybe watching a temp sensor gauge would be entertaining, too.

 

Adding a cooler would require a sensor with a valve? As you want the fluid to in the right range until it's not. Seems like techinal tracks would be more likely to heat the diff more than ones with long straights? Curious as you removed the cooler from the racewagon?

 

I looked at the vbox system, just wow. I thought the Motec system was expensive.

[Sgt.Gator]

You could add a sensor and log it for later, too. Although maybe watching a temp sensor gauge would be entertaining, too.

 

Adding a cooler would require a sensor with a valve? As you want the fluid to in the right range until it's not. Seems like techinal tracks would be more likely to heat the diff more than ones with long straights? Curious as you removed the cooler from the racewagon?

 

I looked at the vbox system, just wow. I thought the Motec system was expensive.

 

No valve, you have a switch on the dash to control the pump. I would guess that when the diff has to work hard using the LSD plates or torsen gearing it gets hotter than just going straight in a cruise.

 

The original Silver Eagle R-160 diff had the cooler for multi hour GrandAm races. I never re-installed it when I swapped in the R-180. For races of less than 1 hour it's probably not needed on a R-180. So far the STI has born that out.

 

The VBOX is best for modding the driver. the Motec is best for modding the car. Right now I see better ROI on modding the driver.

[boxkita]

Modding the driver? What a concept! Good for you. :-)

 

I wondered why the diff cover plate still had fittings on it but not hoses connected. As I write this, I remember reading about your issues with it.

[Sgt.Gator]

The season finale for the NWMECS Enduro Championship. CRR and Retro Racing came together to take 1st Pace in the 4 Hour Enduro and 2nd Place in the 2 Hour Enduro. It was great racing at Portland International Raceway. Big thanks to our Sponsor, Subaru of Bend. Your continuing support and shop work has made it possible to be competitive in endurance racing with our STI. And thanks also to our tuner, Surgeline.

 

We would have taken first or second in the 8 hour if a suspension bolt hadn't fallen out.

 

Looking at the Vbox video/data is the best driver improvement tool ever. Jeff and Chris, both multiple ICSCC Championship winners with thousands of laps at PIR, were 3 seconds a lap faster than me. What makes it so great is taking all the variables out when trying to learn why. Same car, same tires, same weather, same track. Within 5 minutes of looking at our video/data comparisons I know exactly what I need to do to be faster. I'll bet if I went back out on the track today I would cut 2 of those 3 seconds out within 5 laps.

 

Chris was in the car on the last lap of the 4 hour Enduro when things went badly. He'd just gone into the chicane when he lost all power and the car spun out. A turn worker came over and told him the right rear wheel was cocked out at a 30 degree angle.

 

Towed in on a trailer. We quickly determined the upper suspension bolt tying the coilover to the hub had fallen out. We found a bolt and put it back together with an eyeball camber setting.

 

But still no go forward. Further checking found the left rear CV axle had sheared off inside the outer CV boot. We called every auto parts store and dealer in the Portland metro area, no one had an STI CV axle. So we welded the broken one back together. That lasted 6-7 laps, which was 5-6 more than we expected. It was too bad, we were doing great in the 8 hour up to that point.

 

I'm not complaining, I'll take a First and Second anytime!

 

The good news: The engine ran great. There no issues with oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, or tranny temp. And PIR is a 75% of the time WOT track.

 

My only regret is not buying about 30 of these Continental Race Slicks while I had the chance on the close out sale. I got 8 of them and they work great.

 

It's been a great season. I have a couple of more track days left at ORP to do some testing on the FF 818R and the Palatov before the cars go into hibernation.

[Rattsl]

Hot damn congrats.

[Sgt.Gator]

The missing bolt!

 

[GTEASER]

Doh!

[Sgt.Gator]

One of my competitors:

 

 

 

Broken lower control arm. Fixed it, and two laps in the diff let go.

 

It's not just a Subaru thing!

 

The white Porsche in the background is Chev LS powered. We beat him in the 2 hour and the 4 hour. He went on to the 8 hour though.

[Sgt.Gator]

New oem CV Axle installed with all new suspension bolts and nuts.

 

And look what showed up: A Driveshaft Shop Carbon Fiber drive shaft is in the house!

 

[shralp]

That. Doesn’t. Look. Cheap... how much in weight savings?

[derp]

All things considered the driveshaft probably wasn't all that expensive. I went with a steel in my Supra because it's not a racecar, but prices were not horrible for the aluminum or cf. Just more than. I felt I needed to spend on what I use the car for. For a track car? Absolutely would.

[Sgt.Gator]

That. Doesn’t. Look. Cheap... how much in weight savings?

 

All things considered the driveshaft probably wasn't all that expensive. I went with a steel in my Supra because it's not a racecar, but prices were not horrible for the aluminum or cf. Just more than. I felt I needed to spend on what I use the car for. For a track car? Absolutely would.

 

The weight savings is around 11 to 16 lbs. Not huge. But that's not the only benefit. I've talked with a few racers who say the CF driveshaft removes the center bearing noise, and has much less vibration. It absorbs the harmonics and dissipates them, not transmit them directly into the body thru the bearing. The shaft runs smother, the car responds better. The stiffer you keep going with engine mounts, tranny mounts, diff mounts, the more that becomes a problem. They thought that was a bigger benefit than the weight savings.

 

I'll let you know next year.

 

The cost is fair amount. I can buy them at wholesale which takes out a bit of the sting. And since I'm in the Motovicity racer sponsorship program, and I just won the Enduro, the cost was very affordable!

 

If ya'll want Driveshaft Shop CV axles or the main driveshaft I can PM you a price.

Edited October 23, 2018 by Sgt.Gator

[fredrik94087]

That weight savings is the main reason I got it for the WRX. The STI driveshaft is heavy.

 

On a side note, I saw that 370Z that won 25 hours at Thunderhill. It was on the dyno at Z Car Garage in San Jose.

[Rattsl]

Always been curious on the carbon driveshafts. It's on my list of things.

[Sgt.Gator]

VBOX has just added their own tire temp sensor package that shows both in the video and saves as data in the analysis software. Very cool, but expensive (of course!). However it would probably pay for itself in one season of optimizing tire wear and suspension setup.

 

Here's a You Tube:

 

You can see very quickly that the left rear tire has too much camber. It gets hot and stays hot on the inside edge.