06LGTL "EZGT" Build thread

[Hargak]

This is the story of the EZGT

 

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/Finally1_zpszehrosdi.jpg

 

What:

 

2006 Regal Blue pearl Legacy GT 5mt Limited acquired for $4400 was priced at a dealership for $6995 (see condition) Can you find a WRX or STI for that price?

 

This is geared to be a sleeper street/strip drag car/DD

 

Short term goals are 380-420WHP depending on the torque curve (turbo) I go with

 

Long term will be ~1100 whp with a Built EZ36 (parts permitting or I'll go EZ30) swap and twins on a scavenger pump.

 

 

Why:

So my hopes for this thread will be to serve as a compiled resource to those wanting to swap in an H6 or even just to learn more about the legacy's capabilities. I'm trying to get all the pertinent research I've done here in one place.

 

I've always liked the thought of a sleeper STI, and after doing more recent research, I found they weigh the same as their STI brothers (05-06 LGT to 05-06 STI) and have virtually the same engine. tbc on head details.

 

It's never easy to break new ground. I'm not necessarily the first but I hope to be the most detailed so you know all the big (and little) things (frustrations and resolutions to such) along the way to H6 goodness. So if you have info in regards to this feel free to chime in as the thread evolves.

I've always liked turbo Subaru's and I dearly miss my 02 ej207 v7 spec C vf22 mbp wagon. it became somewhat of an icon in my town for well rounded performance. Even though the speed density tune was below 9 in afr's.. I miss the sound, I miss the recognition, I miss shaming new performance mustangs and z06's on the strip, I miss the fun!

 

The sound of a hot H6 is something you need to experience in person, driving one is also amazing the torque curve is great. Now add twins and you have all that plus an amazing power curve. (Think 911 turbo sound and grunt)

 

How:

 

I'm going to rock the OEM LGT 5mt with the OEM 4.11 R160 rear diff 5mt to shoot for minimal shifts on the 0-60 / 1/4mi. That will receive an R180 upgrade before I make the H6 swap. I'm going to reinforced with Moore performance blast plates. The legacy GT transmission is already arguably the best 5MT Subaru made. It's stronger than the wrx tranny and I've seen many a LGT 5mt hold 400-450hp for years.

 

Here is a quick read with picks on the LGT tranny gear thickness vs WRX vs STI with pics: http://flatironsrally.typepad.com/faq/2010/05/comparison-of-subaru-gear-sets-wrx-legacy-gt-sti-ra-and-more.html

 

Before adding a turbo upgrade and blast plates I'm going to have the 5mt tolerances checked and fresh bearings installed to maximize the ability of the plates. If that breaks I plan on doing a failure analysis and depending on what type of failure I'm going to go with all new internals again with a 1-4 PPG gearset and the plates OR a 6 speed. I have faith that we might be able to make the 5mt a hero by the time I'm done.

 

I've seen a LGTB grenade a 6mt even with the open front diff.. around 750 whp. So I'm wondering if it's possible to approach this level with a braced built 5mt. I also am aware of the R160 weakness as I've grenaded 1 in my past with the ej207.

 

As far as choosing a donor car to start with here are some thoughts:

 

It looks like It's a toss up between mechanical and wiring:

 

If you want to deal with mostly mechanical and some ECU reprogramming

and a dash swap (to remove the auto gear indicator) go with a 3.0r as they are only auto. and you could build the existing motor unless you want a built auto. then stay 05-06 and get a hexmods valve body. Might be the way to go to sort out all the tuning and minimize downtime for now.

 

If you want to deal with mostly wiring and get a new ECU (or sacrifice pinouts) go with a 2.5GT with Moore blast plates or a 07+ GT Spec B (with a 6 speed) The motor will bolt to the tranny. But you still have to install a motor then wire it in.

 

A couple of the unknowns (to me) are going to be speed indicator sensor where and how it works with each setup, flywheel and clutch setup (probably an 07+WRX clutch and flywheel) This will be sorted out later in the thread and I will cover it as well.

 

Without further ado, Here is the initial condition of the car:

Receipt:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/IMG_0170_zpsxpcm2k6h.jpg

 

Driving the "tow only" car home I told the dealer I was bringing it to a "Uhaul" It tracked like a razor and had and excellent ride no noise no wobble just idle rpm misfire good power potential from what I felt:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/drivin_zpsamf2yoge.jpg

 

First gas stop getting some proper 91 in it (not 93 yet but will do for it's condition) It probably had 87 in it for all I know.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/kumngo_zpsc2ii6kqf.jpg

Here I also learned about the throttle body to I/C slip on robber gasket and why it was making a party horn noise everytime on boost. I suppose the mechanic forgot to tighten the hose clamp. Make sure you remove and properly reseat this if it gets forgotten as it gets bunched up in there..

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/tb%20hose_zpsh5ao6893.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Granny back-up damage:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/backupscrape_zpspfwvfh6g.jpg

 

Sprayed calipers:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/calipers_zpszethguu1.jpg

 

Sprayed scoop:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/Scoop_zps9mctoxmt.jpg

 

No idea what this "patch" is

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/marker_zpsffgxbcox.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exterior:

So it looks like someone thought they would upgrade the brakes and hood scoop! Body is straight but Blue rattle can on calipers and marker on a ding.. the interior is also special.

Maybe a "kid" had it and thought it would be cool? I'm not going to knock it, just change it to my style and get some things fixed properly.

 

Someone once told me "the attitude you have toward your car is reflected in the appearance and upkeep of it"

 

I have plans to make it look completely stock before I do any major upgrades as I always want it to have a clean look.

 

 

Interior:

 

Tan leather, good condition one small tear on the right side of the drivers seat.

otherwise needs minor cleaning/conditioning. This car wasn't detailed. Seems like it arrived from a basic cleanup to sell at auction and the dealership that bought it stopped when the mechanic didn't understand subie mechanical.

 

Mechanical:

115k miles

5mt:

Seems good, good action, clutch seems good but due to motor is not completely known as to holding power.

 

EJ255

It runs but it is getting all four cylinder misfire codes.

In idle it's pretty rough and acts like it will die coming to a stop with it out of gear.

I was told the turbo was new and just replaced but it wasn't the dealership that did it. (That's all I know about the past I usually try and contact previous owner always a good idea to learn a lot about what was done)

when going into higher rpm's/boost it seems to remedy the misfires temporarily but also has a funny sound which is possibly BPV or throw out bearing it's sounds like a chortling whistle under load to my best description it could very well be the leak wherever it is.

 

I plan on pulling a learning view and doing a log to show what's going on. My best guess is either it happened before the turbo and turbo was a potential remedy to the previous owner and is a vacuum leak OR the turbo died and after replacing it gave up after it didn't run right and they missed a gasket or didn't tighten something. if all four are misfiring it's a good indicator you have a vacuum leak between the MAF and the throttle body.

 

One easy way to check if you have a vacuum leak vs an internal engine problem like valve damage or poor compression is to unplug the MAF sensor on the turbo inlet behind the filter. This should switch it to a default speed density tune and stop missing because it will no longer read less air than what is going in (as some may be coming in in a leak) which is reducing the fuel being injected. I didn't think of this when I made the purchase but honestly didn't care, I just wanted to seal the deal.

 

Very important for 05-06 LGT's: VAG-COM is a $9 cable that you can use to pull a stock tune, edit/retune, and flash back to the ecu. Most importantly, learning view, priceless free software allows you to check current fine knock settings and vacuum/boost leaks and at what rpm. It's a great quick diagnostic. You cannot beat this $9 upgrade. Only one thing, you must get the kind with a specific chip. I will post the chip number and how to find one for yourself when we do the diagnostic. There are generic stage 2 tunes online (use caution and contact a tuner if you don't know what you are doing) but basically if you have done the exhaust (up/downpipe, catback) and intake upgrade, you could download ~40hp to your car. I would also suggest a GM EBCS.

 

Everything else mechanically seems sound but hasn't been confirmed.

 

 

 

That'll be for next week!

I'm pretty excited to get into this project, for now it awaits pickup in Tulsa. It'll be delivered to me on the 13th.

I'll keep you guys posted

 

 

In the meantime here is what happened tonight:

 

Hmm what's that blue thing for?

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/hmm_zpsacnoqwfq.jpg

huh..

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/IMG_0254_zpsvjgayajs.jpg

...

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/Fixed_zpsybpl13is.jpg

 

There we go, Misfires solved. No more CEL's

Engine logged great with my $9 ebay cable. If you want one do a search on ebay for this exact phrase: vag com FT232BL First result is currently $9 MAKE SURE IT HAS "FT232BL"

 

With this cable you can use

 

With learning view:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Hargak/IMG_0260_zpsjqggzbho.jpg

Learning view helps you track down boost/vac leaks and tell you what throttle level you are leaking in vac? or after boost or both? how much?

It helps you find knock and show roughly where it is in the table without necessarily logging just plug it in and pull a learning view

It shows you an instant IAM so you can see if you are running at full timing advance or if you may have bad fuel.

It will show you all existing AND memorized error codes since last ecu reset

It will let you reset your ecu without pulling the battery cable

 

With Rom Raider:

You can log

you can have FAST extremely low latency updates from your ECU on any given parameter in graph, analog or digital dials or logged to a spreadsheet

You can pull your OEM ECU programming and maps and save for a backup

You can edit all of the parameters including disabling CEL's (and associated limp modes) for items like rear 02 sensor, air pump etc

You can edit or remove the speed limiter

You can increase your boost, timing, fueling etc

going to 1200cc injectors? how about editing injector scaling to say 1200cc and viola, your injectors are ready for fine tuning

You can even put launch control on the ecu with this tool (requires some advanced knowledge or a map that has it already)

 

Is all of this worth $9?

 

I saved $691 buying this instead of a Cobb AP. But I'm not your average Subaru driver.

If you want a canned tune wham bam tym get a cobb. otherwise..

/end rant.

[KRM]

Subscribed for awesome plans. And somewhat of a local to you sir

[Hargak]

Ah, where you from?

 

Also wanted to point out that the 05-06 LGT's weigh the same as the 05-06 STI's but they have a lighter 5mt tranny so a 6mt swap will make it heavier.

 

The early 05 Legacy GT's have an identical motor as to the 04-05 STI but it is stamped EJ255 even though cast, heads, pistons, valves, cams, AVCS etc are identical. they run a B25 head as well. Somewhere along the way there was a transition in late 05 LGT's to the better flowing better designed D25 heads. Safest to get an 06 if you really want to get this head stock and stick with the 2.5.

 

Here is a good read for those looking at head details w/pics:

Pics and Nasioc thread are credited Nasioc's fateo66

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1856856

 

Somewhere in late 05 the heads were changed from B25 to D25 heads. the STI has the B25's which are triangle top shaped internally while the Legacy's more concave hemi shaped head seems to be the optimal internal head profile EJ20 wrx heads added for compare.

 

 

Fateo66:

 

"You can see how on the D25 heads the coolant passages have been redesigned to allow more flow threw the head because after comparing the cross sections you can see that the inner cooling passages are now smaller to allow for bigger exhaust ports. Also much more importantly you can see the different style combustion chambers! IMO the D25 has the best design because of its hemispherical based design and the lack of valve shrouding. The STi's b25 however has a very squared off combustion chamber."

 

"Also, some early 05 LGT's have B25 heads which are the same as a 04-06 STI. However the late 05 and 06+ LGT's have D25 heads which came on 06+wrx's and not only flow more but also have more of a hemispherical combustion chamber which reduces knock and promotes even flame propagation."

 

From left to right we have the STI B25, WRX D25, and the WRX S20 same order top to bottom then EJ257 STI B25 then EJ255 D25

[Hargak]

Since we are talking head flow lets get intake manifolds out of the way:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2229576

 

"Here's some additional CFM numbers for you guys. I had the OEM JDM V7 EJ207 STi Intake Manifold & TGV's sent out to Extrude Hone and they threw it up on the flow bench before and after the Extrude Hone process. Impressive CFM gains in my opinion considering the expensive aftermarket options that are available.

 

OEM JDM V7 EJ207 STi Intake Manifold & TGV's

 

SuperFlow 1020 Flow Bench @ 28"

Test Pressure @ 29.6 PSI

Temperature during Flow Bench Testing - +78*F

 

OEM JDM V7 STi EJ207 / After Extrude Hone process ( Difference in CFM from Stock to after Extrude Hone process - )

 

Runner #1 Before - 263.7 CFM / Runner #1 After - 311.8 CFM ( +48.1 CFM, 18.2% increase )

 

Runner #2 Before - 274.3 CFM / Runner #2 After - 316.4 CFM ( +42.1 CFM, 15.3% increase )

 

Runner #3 Before - 272.5 CFM / Runner #3 After - 316.0 CFM ( +43.5 CFM, 15.9% increase )

 

Runner #4 Before - 269.8 CFM / Runner #4 After - 314.9 CFM ( +45.1 CFM, 16.7% increase )"

 

Extrude Honing is impressive

In my opinion when looking at cost vs performance an EJ25 SOHC N/A intake manifold with an extrude hone is about as close to optimal as you can get Here is one with a basic port job:

 

"EJ25 SOHC Big Plenum Short Runner ASF Porting Stage 0.5 with TB

Runner 1 354 CFM

Runner 2 354 CFM

Runner 3 337 CFM

Runner 4 331 CFM

 

Average 344 CFM

 

Runner to runner max variation 23 CFM or 6.6%"

 

Lastly here is our plastic mani:

 

"Plastic Thing with TB

Runner 1 293 CFM

Runner 2 283 CFM

Runner 3 283 CFM

Runner 4 291 CFM

Average 287.5 CFM

Runner to runner max variation 10 CFM or 3.5%"

 

To be fair, the OEM plastic one is no slouch by any definition. It has great balance with only a 3.5% variation which means less surprises and better balance especially when tuning non conservatively. Being plastic, it's also an insulator and there is no reason for a phenolic spacer to stop thermal transfer from the hot block. The EZ30R's manifold is also plastic designed similarly. So the thermal qualities apply there as well.

[SBT]

Great start on this. Subscribed for updates.

[Sgt.Gator]

So you decided not to use the SVX engine and go EZ30?

[Hargak]

Yes, I really like the EG33 but I know it's external physical size is going require relocating some things. By the same token I can get my hands on an ECU that will plug right up to an EZ.

I'm also currently doing research into the 3.6 as an alternative.

 

I've just learned the stock rods on the 3.6 are forged.. but how strong are they? it's more about thickness than forging. Most all Subaru rods are forged contrary to popular belief even in the N/A's. The 08+ Tribeca has aftermarket supercharger kits which tells me there is some room there. I have not yet purchased an EZ engine yet. I stated in another post that the 3.6 rods were funky.. where it attaches to the crank is offset. Also it turns out the 3.6 is 10lbs lighter than the EZ30. The EZ36 started in the 08 Tribeca. After doing a bit of digging it seems that the technology and design in it is even more polished than the EZ30.. cooling especially. I've heard both ways in regards to oil ingestion as well. I know in general this has been an issue and even made the news. Regardless, if it drinks some oil over time I don't mind.

 

Until I get all the specs sorted out I'll be working on the 2.5 setup. Maybe I'll find another donor in the meantime and have both 2.5 and EZ. This will definitely be a thing for me in the future. Possibly a matching wagon daily for towing the EZ to the track in case I blow something up while I'm there.

 

Also, I've updated and added some things in the primary post.

 

Headers and up-pipe in the mail for the 2.5

[Hargak]

Does anyone have a spare left rear taillight or should I hit up EBay? There are no junkyards with Subaru's here. Also I'm looking to trade 06 headlights for 05's. if anyone is interested these are in near perfect condition but can get detailed pics.

[patrikman]

I'm pretty sure you'll not only need an ECU to run a donor EZ30 but you'll need the correct keys also.

[SBT]

ECU and BIU, plus the keys to go with it, or a way to get new keys reprogrammed to work with the ECU/BIU.

[Hargak]

As long as the ecu biu and key match it should be fine. I'm looking at buying an 08 Tribeca at an auction that's coming up next Saturday. If we get it I might be able to use the whole thing next year while I sort the rest of it out this year.

[battelready]

Would you be using the JDM ecu or the UDSM one? One of the guys in the other subthread wasnt able to figure out if subaru could program it .

[Hargak]

I program it. The JDM one usually has more options (room to change programs, better launch control options)

[Hargak]

For posterity:

 

---------------------------------------------------------------

 

I have started a listing of weights of OEM and Aftermarket parts. If you have weighed your OEM or aftermarket parts, please post that information here and I will add it to this post.

 

***Here are some things you can do to get started with weight reduction***

 

Easiest:

1. Purchase a lightweight battery - 15 to 25 lbs lighter

2. Purchase lightweight wheels - 5 to 25 lbs lighter

3. Remove engine cover, intake silencer, owners manual, floor mats, and foam inserts on top of the spare tire - 22 lbs lighter

4. Purchase a lightweight trunk lid - 16 lbs lighter

5. Purchase lightweight racing seat(s) - 35 to 42 lbs lighter (per seat)

 

Cheapest (all of these are free):

1. Remove spare tire and jack - 36 lbs lighter

2. Remove passenger and rear seats - 125 lbs lighter

3. Remove HVAC controls, Navi (if applicable), and the surrounding interior trim - 25 to 30 lbs lighter

4. Remove door panels and speakers - 29 lbs lighter

5. Remove emissions air pump and related parts (must clear CELs after) - 7 lbs lighter Walkthrough

6. Glove box weight removal - 2.5lbs Walkthrough

 

**************************************************

 

*ALL WEIGHTS GIVEN IN LBS*

 

OEM LGT:

 

Exterior Pieces

Trunk Lid - 28

Hood -

 

Engine / Exhaust

Downpipe (w/ heatshield) - 20.5

Engine Cover - 3.2

Intake (airbox, snorkel, filter, and "after MAF" hose) - 4.9

Intake Silencer - somebody please weigh this, I already threw mine out! - Im going to guess 1 lbs for now

Midpipe/Y-pipe + Mufflers - 46

TMIC (including plastic endtanks) - 6.3

 

Interior

Battery - 37.5

Center consol, Parking brake boot, shift boot, ashtray - 10

Door Panel, Front - 7

Door Panel, Rear - 5

Floor Mats, Cloth (set of 4) - 6

Front Seat, Passenger - 58

Navigation screen + plastic surround - 5

Misc. plastic trim pieces - 5

Radio - P204UH (MY07+ 6cd/mp3) - 8

Radio - Satellite Radio Reciever - 2

Rear Seat, Back - 47

Rear Seat, Bottom - 14

Rear Seat, Side Supports - 6

Door Woofer - 1

Tweeter - 0.5

Subaru Service Manual - 4

 

Transmission/Drivetrain

6MT Flywheel - 19

6MT Pressure Plate - 13.6

6MT Clutch Disc - 4

 

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes

Donut spare Tire - 30

Jack + Tire Iron - 6

Bilstein Struts, Front (Pair) - 30

Bilstein Struts, Rear (Pair) - 7

Rotors, Front (Pair) - coming soon

Springs, Front (Pair) - 9.5

Springs, Rear (Pair) - 7

 

Total Weight

Stock LGT 5MT -

Stock LGT 5EAT -

Stock LGT Spec.B - 3335

 

 

WRX/STi Compatible Parts

 

Exterior Pieces

 

Engine / Exhaust

 

Interior

 

Transmission/Drivetrain

Clutch Disk, '07 6MT - 5

Flywheel, '07 6MT - 18

Pressure Plate + Bearings, '07 6MT - 14

 

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes

 

 

Aftermarket Parts

 

Exterior Pieces

R-Rev Carbon Fiber Trunk - 12

 

Engine / Exhaust

ERZ Catted Downpipe, 6MT - 15.4

K&N Typhoon Intake - 4.9

Magnaflow Catback Exhaust - 43.2

RacerX (itsme) FMIC - 21.2 (11.0 core, 10.2 piping/clamps)

 

Interior

LosAngelesLGT Diet Program - 20+

Stereo Clarity Hidden Subwoofer Enclosure - 23.9

 

Transmission/Drivetrain

 

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes

Bilstein HD Struts, Front (Pair) - 28

Bilstein HD Struts, Rear (Pair) - 7

Centric Premium Cryo-Stop Rotors, Front (Pair) - 44.2

Centric Premium Cryo-Stop Rotors, Rear (Pair) - 23.8

Cusco Front Strut Brace -

Cusco Rear Strut Brace -

Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Front (Pair) - 5

Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Rear (Pair) - 1.7

iON Sport Spec Springs, Front (Pair) - 16

iON HD Springs, Rear (Pair) - 10

Tein H-Tech Springs, Front (Pair) - 10.2

Tein H-Tech Springs, Rear (Pair) - 8

Tein S-Tech Springs, Front (Pair) - 11.5

Tein S-Tech Springs, Rear (Pair) - 9.1

Yokohama Advan Neova AD08, 215/45/R18 - 23.1

 

**************************************************

[rapture]

Sub'd

This should b good:munch:

[Sgt.Gator]

Thanks to whoever posted the Tris text message for insulting Hargak and ruining a good thread. Whether you agree or disagree with the build is irrelevant, people doing the unexpected and unusual is how we all learn to think outside the box.

 

Hargak I was looking forward to following your journey. I'm sorry we have a couple of dim wits who want to puke garbage on someone else's thread.

[SBT]

Thanks SG - Just chiming-in to advise that you won't have any more issues like this.

 

Those that do, will find some time on their hands, off-site, to think about their actions.

 

Keep up the good work. We need more of it.

[Tehnation]

I think i missed something lol! Why is there no info in the original post?

 

But I came across this cool video.

 

[Tehnation]

I guess a flat 6 boosted is better than a flat 4 boosted...... wait is this thread dead already ?

[Hargak]

I'll rebuild the thread when I get the time. I was surprised by the immaturity level some people have on a thread that I thought to be important. Even the info regarding the stock motor. I'm new here from Scoobymods.com <My EJ207 v7 Spec C VF22 bugeye wagon swap here. But they seem to be slowing down a lot lately.

 

I don't have a feel for this forum yet and will give it another go. I was about to look elsewhere for a journal/home

[Tehnation]

Its usually quiet around here! Surprised anyone would have an issue! I have always thought a flat 6 twin turbo would be the ideal setup, like a porsche. It fits in the lgt obviously. 4 cylinders has its limits..... It seems like uncharted territory because of the costs. But i'm sure there are ways, people have done it. I guess it depends on the build you plan!

[Hargak]

IP ban? Trolls will be trolls. Trolls will recreate new accounts to troll. I don't see why I'm a moron for applying knowledge to a possibly ideal setup. I'm not losing sleep over it. I just think it would be more fun to post it completed without a write up..

 

Update: I drove the car home last night arrived back from Tulsa ~1am. It was like a razor. Sharp steering, no play, tracked perfectly straight no vibration or cabin noise. I may convert this to a 2.5GT general build until I get the H6 ready to go so as not to disappoint and also to avoid the "peanut gallery" comments. I will say this. I'm 6'3" I don't fit perfectly in it.. I think my 02 wrx wagon had more legroom.. The seat seemed to go back further in it.

[SBT]

I've undeleted your previous content. All you'll need to do is to restore your initial post and it will be well again.

[Tehnation]

So subaru has a 3.0 and a 3.6 flat 6? The 3.6 are for the 2010+s? Can the 3.6 fit in a 4th gen? I'm one of those "there is no replacement for displacement" type of guys. This is definitely interesting. Do you plan to boost said h6? Are we aiming for the moon or Tokyo?

Move the battery, remove the intake box, viola room for twin turbo.

[magnusonsubie]

So subaru has a 3.0 and a 3.6 flat 6? The 3.6 are for the 2010+s? Can the 3.6 fit in a 4th gen? I'm one of those "there is no replacement for displacement" type of guys. This is definitely interesting. Do you plan to boost said h6? Are we aiming for the moon or Tokyo?

Move the battery, remove the intake box, viola room for twin turbo.

Yeah he's done his research and now I'm really anxious to see where this goes. Dead.Mr swapped his 3.0 to a 3.6 and had been going through some dealings with wiring but it was going smooth last I check on his thread.