Feeny1701 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Correct me if I'm wrong here, but shouldn't you expect DAM to be at 1.0 all the time once the ECU has learned all the values? A DAM lower than 1.0 would indicate a problem somewhere. Maybe the 5th gen is a little different, but I don't see any Feedback Knock hardly at all on my car, and if I do it's only a -1.4 for a split second. My DAM stays at 1.0 no matter the engine load or RPMs. The log of yours I looked at showed huge amounts of Feedback Knock, and I'm guessing that's why your DAM is stuck so low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 If you don't see knock at WOT, I say go for it. You don't necessarily need to go WOT but WOT should do it. Warm up the car first, then shut it down, reset the ECU, then start a 3rd or 4th gear pull from around 2000 or so. If you display DAM on the AP screen you can keep an eye on it during the pull to see if/when it increases. It shouldn't take more than a few seconds under boost to bring DAM up. Resetting the ECU and hoping that DAM goes back up to 1.000 is kind of ignoring the issue. There is a lot of feedback knock in the logs he posted, so I'd be troubleshooting mechanically. Check for leaks, clean MAF, replace AF sensors, loose bolts/heat shields (false knock triggers), to begin with. FWIW, with a healthy car on the Cobb OTS map, after I reset my ECU the DAM would go from .625 and shoot up to 1.000 within a couple of miles. Faster, if you build low boost (<5psi) up a hill (or lightly drag the brakes). LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Looks like I won’t need to reset my ECU again; on the drive to work this morning my DAM went to 1 on its own. No boost, just cruising.About a 10mi drive one-way Right after it happened I logged the “DAM to 1 Cruise" log. As soon as I parked at work I logged the “Idle” log. On the drive back I went WOT 2k-5k rpm, in 3rd Gear, on S# and only got 14psi on that log…I am Stage 2...should I be concerned?DAM to 1 Cruise 1.9.16.csvIdle 1.9.16.csvWOT, 3rd gear, 2k-5k rpm, S#,1.9.16.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 What are the temperatures where you're at right now? Also, being in CO, your elevation will lower your barometric pressure as well. Both of those can lead to lower boost after compensation... you'd have to check your map to be sure. You can log both of those parameters (Intake air temp, barometric pressure) as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 It was 19 degrees Fahrenheit outside when I took that log. Again pardon my noobiness, are you saying I am making power easier @ low temps so it lowers boost targets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feeny1701 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 If you add in Boost Target to what you're logging, you will be able to see what the ECU is asking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 It was 19 degrees Fahrenheit outside when I took that log. Again pardon my noobiness, are you saying I am making power easier @ low temps so it lowers boost targets? Boost targets are not lowered. Temperature and compensation is applied to the wgdc tables to avoid boost spikes. Typically, even with compensations applied, cold temperatures like these can still increase boost. If it's just ~1psi increase, not a big deal. You want to log boost target like mentioned or boost error so you can see whether or not you are underboosting. Also, since your DAM is at 1, do not reset. If your DAM drops, then we can determine if there is a problem that needs addressing. Take random logs in different situations like you're doing and keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serx7 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Resetting the ECU and hoping that DAM goes back up to 1.000 is kind of ignoring the issue. There is a lot of feedback knock in the logs he posted, so I'd be troubleshooting mechanically. Check for leaks, clean MAF, replace AF sensors, loose bolts/heat shields (false knock triggers), to begin with. FWIW, with a healthy car on the Cobb OTS map, after I reset my ECU the DAM would go from .625 and shoot up to 1.000 within a couple of miles. Faster, if you build low boost (<5psi) up a hill (or lightly drag the brakes). Sorry, I wasn't suggesting to ignore anything but he expressed concern about the starting DAM and I saw that all his FBKC is at cruise, in vacuum and at throttle positions < 20%. His knock def needs to be squared away of course. ivonr, when I was troubleshooting a similar issue a few yrs ago it turned out to be my IPR TMIC rattling against the pitch stop mount, but while testing around the issue I logged 100% of all my driving. The resulting logs always caught the knock as well as when the ecu would switch to course correction mode and drop my DAM. I'd recommend logging full time to ensure you capture a DAM drop event if/when it happens. Might be more helpful than only intermittently logging and then seeing that DAM dropped on you while you weren't "looking". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 ivonr, when I was troubleshooting a similar issue a few yrs ago it turned out to be my IPR TMIC rattling against the pitch stop mount, but while testing around the issue I logged 100% of all my driving. The resulting logs always caught the knock as well as when the ecu would switch to course correction mode and drop my DAM. I'd recommend logging full time to ensure you capture a DAM drop event if/when it happens. Might be more helpful than only intermittently logging and then seeing that DAM dropped on you while you weren't "looking". Yup, a loose TMIC bolt was the culprit when my DAM dropped on my LGT. A bad tank of gas had the same effect on the Saabaru. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 If I do have any knock, it is regular low-load knock and is not pulling my DAM down at all. Here is a log in 3rd gear, WOT 2.6k-5k RPM in S#. Target Boost was loggedWOT, 3rd gear, 2k-5k rpm, S#,1.10.16.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 If I do have any knock, it is regular low-load knock and is not pulling my DAM down at all. Here is a log in 3rd gear, WOT 2.6k-5k RPM in S#. Target Boost was logged Regular low-load knock? Does that mean you're still seeing it regularly? Next time try logging for at least a minute. Cruise for a bit, slow down, speed up at half throttle, slow down, then go WOT for a more complete idea of what's going on. Even still, in that last short log you are pulling a lot of fuel before going WOT. And once you are under boost/WOT, you've got some learned knock correction in there. FWIW, I would still be troubleshooting mechanically. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 For comparison's sake, here's one of my "dirty" logs from cruising, where the ECU pulled a little timing via feedback knock correction. It goes for about 100 seconds, shows some cruise and a little WOT, too. This is stage two @ 16psi peak. I've got plenty of 10 minute logs that show zero knock, so that's why I'd be a little concerned if you're seeing it regularly, even in low-load situations.cruiselog.csv LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feeny1701 Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Your Boost vs Target Boost shows you're actually over boosting 1-1.5 psi. Your targets seem to be low for a stage 2 map unless the targets are lowered by an altitude compensation table, but that doesn't make any sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 What would lower my target boost if my DAM stays at 1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 What would lower my target boost if my DAM stays at 1? Kind of looks like a stock tune to me in the log. Targeting 13.5 psi and the closed loop delay appears to be still active. Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 What would lower my target boost if my DAM stays at 1? Remember, boost targets stay the same unless changed. If your boost target is 13.5, that's where it stays unless changed in a tune/revision. The rest of your boost control tables are calibrated to get to target boost. Nothing in the map will lower the target. What changes is wgdc % due to compensations, one of them being lowered DAM which does not apply here. I'd really like to see your map. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Remember, boost targets stay the same unless changed. If your boost target is 13.5, that's where it stays unless changed in a tune/revision. The rest of your boost control tables are calibrated to get to target boost. Nothing in the map will lower the target. What changes is wgdc % due to compensations, one of them being lowered DAM which does not apply here. I'd really like to see your map. Not entirely true. There are compensation tables (at least in the '07 spec.B ECU, which I can't imagine is any different than any other '07+ LGT ECU) for barometric pressure, coolant temp, and IAT. See attachment (the coolant temp has 0 compensation in the stock tune). Kind of looks like a stock tune to me in the log. Targeting 13.5 psi and the closed loop delay appears to be still active. That was my impression too... but I suppose if the Cobb 91 tune has low-ish targets, the low temps/barometric could potentially lower the boost targets to what's in the logs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 didn't log it, but i went WOT on the highway in S mode (not S#) and hit 16.5psi. temps were 15 degrees warmer than the last max boost run in reference to the closed loop delay still being active, should i re-flash my car? this is half the reason i got off stock tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feeny1701 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Just because you hit 16.5 psi doesn't mean your target was 16.5. If the wastegate duty cycles are not set up correctly, you could be overboosting to hit that number which will create other problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Would you guys recommend getting pro-tuned at this point? Or keep looking for mechanical issues? Every WOT pull I've done has had zero FBKC and DAM is staying at 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Would you guys recommend getting pro-tuned at this point? Or keep looking for mechanical issues? Every WOT pull I've done has had zero FBKC and DAM is staying at 1 Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 I'd always recommend a pro tune, unless you're planning on more mods in the near future. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 No more mods. Just want to make sure my logs don’t show anything mechanical that needs to be addressed before I go spending the cash on a tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Posting two more logs of low-rpm cruise knock, let me know if you see anything funky. Tuning Alliance's comment on my closed loop delay possibly still being active concerns me...cruise knock B 1.18.16.csvcruise knock A 1.18.16.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 PM Mike (Tuning Alliance) and talk with him about a tune. It's the best couple hundred bucks you could spend on your car, because more powerful/more reliable, and you're buying into awesome customer service. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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