Sarang Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share Posted August 29, 2015 Would be nice to know the differences, if any, in length between where it mounts to the transmission and the bushing among the 3 short shift adapters currently available One could be made in a modular fashion to tune the weight of it to an individual's own preference. I was thinking about that myself... but I'm not sure there would be enough of a market for that type of thing to justify the cost to design it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 I got it in today! Here are a couple of pics of it compared to the Perrin piece. It might be a slightly shorter throw. As you can see it is very hefty... http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2333&pictureid=10737 http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2333&pictureid=10736 http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2333&pictureid=10735 http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2333&pictureid=10734 I asked Boomba to draw a Roomba on the box. Instead they sent a picture of one... I'll take it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Really interested to hear your opinion of the boomba vs Perri SSA My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 It looks like a boombarang I'm curious to hear your impression as well once it's installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 So I got it installed. I toyed with the idea of installing the Perrin one and comparing them for y'all but that is just too much work. My first impression: This makes a bigger difference than my Lathewerks shift knob. Way more solid. The throw is also predictably much shorter which I also like. I'm thrilled. I feel like the shifter now feels like it should have from the beginning. I have only gone to get groceries with it so far so I'll update if my thoughts on it change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Whatever happened to sacrifice for the greater good of community? J/k, a comparison would have been great, but I understand. You didnt by any chance measure the center to center distances on both lever arms, did you? You know, to compare the throw reductions between the two. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 I compared the two levers and I think the Boomba piece is very slightly shorter, like maybe one or two millimeters. One of my pictures showed how close they are. But I didn't use a ruler. Actually I could do that with it on the car. Maybe I'll think of it when I install my new BPV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Thats what I thought from your pic, thanks! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byll Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I had purchased the Perrin unit, and then after reading the early luke warm comments, got cold feet and sent it back. Perrin is always a class act, and they refunded my $ in quick order. The lack of counter-weights had always disturbed me a bit on the Perrin SSA. And now here we have the Boomba unit. I already installed the STI STS and Perrin shifter bushing - long ago. Between the two, they tightened up the shift feel, but did not make the shift significantly shorter. My fervent hope is that somewhere I can read comparisons between the Perrin, the Kartboy, and the Boomba SSA. If I have somehow missed an already existing comparison, please help me find it. Best to all. Byll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 The Perrin with a weighted knob might be just as good as one of the others with a stock knob. I am curious if having a weighted shift arm and knob is going to affect something else like the synchros or cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 The Perrin with a weighted knob might be just as good as one of the others with a stock knob. I am curious if having a weighted shift arm and knob is going to affect something else like the synchros or cable. How would it affect synchros? The cable ought to be plenty strong. I've seen those concerns before and they baffle me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Anyone correct me if I am wrong, but the syncros are basically small friction pads on the gears that get the gear spinning to the current speed when shifting up or down to reduce wear during engagement. Adding more pressure to them could cause premature wear. The cable well it should be plenty strong but it was designed with the stock parts not all these aftermarket ones with increased pressure and shorter heavier throws. Maybe they are unfounded concerns, but they are there for me none-the-less. In the same sense banging through the gears everytime you drive would cause a lot of wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 ^^^Yeah That I know it is from a much older car. But when I used to work on mk1 and 2 vw golfs we would add a big weighted shift rod to the linkage. It would tear apart synchros much faster than those without the mod. All that weight is basically forcing the car into gear whether or not it wants to. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Stupid question, but would having you hand on the shifter at all times mimic the same effect since you are somewhat putting pressure on it? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byll Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I have read any number of articles saying that resting one's hand on the shifter is a bad idea... Thought about that, as I have been reading posts here, concerning heavy shift knobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I would say with the cable shifter unless you are putting pressure as if you were shifting it, no the pressure you apply just resting your hand on it is just going to the body of the shifter. If it was a sti 6spd or older 5spd maybe since the shifter was directly mounted to the trans. but again the forks inside arent resting on the gears they are merely hanging around until you move them forward or backward or side to side. The weight is sitting on the shifter pivot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 The weight is sitting on the shifter pivot. Exactly. If the shifter plate's weight is balanced (more or less) on the center of the pivot then it would not add pressure when it's just sitting. I'm imagining two identical kids on a see-saw. When they don't kick, it's just balanced and it stays where it is. Now with the added weight on each side you do have a higher moment of inertia so once you get it moving it would take more to stop it... but that seems like it would be analogous to slamming the stock equipment harder. I think it almost goes without saying that the best way to increase reliability is to leave the car stock and treat it gently... or just not drive it. Another thought: If pushing the gears and syncros quicker increases wear, then wouldn't any short throw shifter do that? As in, if you're shifting twice as fast then you're mashing the sycros twice as fast regardless of your shifter plate. I thought the reason you don't rest your hand on the shifter is because the small movements might jiggle the gears, increasing wear. Kinda the same reason you don't rest your foot on the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Exactly. If the shifter plate's weight is balanced (more or less) on the center of the pivot then it would not add pressure when it's just sitting. I'm imagining two identical kids on a see-saw. When they don't kick, it's just balanced and it stays where it is. Now with the added weight on each side you do have a higher moment of inertia so once you get it moving it would take more to stop it... but that seems like it would be analogous to slamming the stock equipment harder. I think it almost goes without saying that the best way to increase reliability is to leave the car stock and treat it gently... or just not drive it. Another thought: If pushing the gears and syncros quicker increases wear, then wouldn't any short throw shifter do that? As in, if you're shifting twice as fast then you're mashing the sycros twice as fast regardless of your shifter plate. I thought the reason you don't rest your hand on the shifter is because the small movements might jiggle the gears, increasing wear. Kinda the same reason you don't rest your foot on the clutch. Exactly what I was implying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 If pushing the gears and syncros quicker increases wear, then wouldn't any short throw shifter do that?Yup. So does yanking to hard on the stock shifter - if you don't give the synchros time to do their thing, then you can increase wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Ah that makes sense then. So the moral of the story is go easy on your car, perhaps more so with this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 What increases synchronizer ring wear is meshing gears vastly different, and relying on the synchro rings to slow down or speed up the gear shafts to the output shaft. For example dropping from 5th to 2nd is much harder on the 2nd gear ring than if you went 5-3-2. Rev , atching is obviously good, too. Shifting speed matters way less, as long as you fully engage, and a short shifter actually helps with that. Double clutching, or at least semi rev matching with light throttle blips is the best thing you can do. The choice of fluid can matter a lot. The hydrostatic pressure and/or friction modifiers in the fluid impact the fiction between the ring, lining, and cone. Redline Lightweight shockproof improves the synchronizer engagement, reducing teeth gnash, improving engagement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 If you let the synchronizer do its thing without overloading it, the wear will be pretty minimal - when you force the synchronizer to try and work faster than it can, you can dramatically increase the wear on the synchronizer. Shifting speed isn't important until you start asking the synchros to work more quickly than they can, which is a whole lot easier to do with a short shifter. Lots of good info on manual transmission wear, etc. at this link http://www.rsgear.com/blog/2011/5/23/understanding-and-analyzing-manual-transmission-failures.aspx Nice discussion on how synchros work here http://drivelinenews.com/tips/synchronizers-defined/ If you have to provide more than light pressure to get the trans to go into gear, you are shifting too quickly for the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 ^^^Which is why I am a big fan of the redline fluid since it dramatically reduces the required engagement pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 ^ My experience with that cocktail wasn't anywhere near as good as yours. I may have noticed a slight difference when I first did the fluid change, but that quickly faded after a couple days. It's actually grinding going in to 5th occasionally now. I doubt it's my technique since I'm not doing anything differently than before. Thinking about draining it and putting in straight motul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Or rev match that's one of those things that comes with time though. Heel/Toe still is hard for me downshifting but up shifting i rarely clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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