DC_Titus Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Figured starting a build thread may be useful to some other members with questions. I will continue to update the thread with new additions and try to provide links or part numbers. Feel free to ask any questions. Interior: -Carbon fiber wrapped trim pieces (3M carbon fiber wrap) -Subaru leather trimmed shift knob (http://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-legacy-leather-trimmed-shift-knob-p-1793.html) -Stark paddle shift extensions (http://www.modbargains.com/stark-paddle-shift-extension-frs-brz.htm) Exterior: -Anzo USA U-bar headlights (black) w/5000k HIDs (http://www.anzousa.com/headlights/projector-headlights/subaru-outback-10-13-projector-u-bar-style-headlights-black-clear-amber.html) (http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit-Xtreme-HID-p/xt-h7.htm) -Morimoto XB LED fog lights w/yellow lamin-x (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-type-s.html#.Val0ws5AjaM) -Bayson R JDM style front bumper lip (http://www.baysonr.com/10_12_Subaru_Legacy_JDM_Style_Front_Bumper_Lip_Po_p/flip-pu-legacy10-jdm.htm) -C-mod grille w/XXL black powder coated mesh from customcargrills.com (http://cmodgrilles.auctivacommerce.com/Subaru-Legacy-2010-2012-Mesh-Grille-P1682797.aspx) (http://www.customcargrills.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Diamond_XXL) -HELLA supertone horns painted white (https://subimods.com/hella-supertone-horn-kit.html) -Grimspeed license plate relocation kit (https://subimods.com/grimmspeed-license-plate-relocation-kit-2015-wrx-sti-by-grimmspeed-for-84-99.html) -iJDMTOY bumper quick releases ([ame=http://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Finish-Release-Fasteners-Bumpers/dp/B00JJYPATO]Amazon.com: iJDMTOY Black Finish JDM Quick Release Fasteners For Car Bumpers Trunk Fender Hatch Lids Kit: Automotive[/ame]) -20% window tint all around Engine/Engine Bay/Intake/Exhaust: -Takeda cold air intake (http://afepower.com/shop/details_new.php?partno=TR-4304P&) -AEM cone filter -Custom dual exhaust, resonator delete, Magnaflow Performance mufflers, 4.25” Magnaflow tips -Custom Invasion Fabworks alternator cover -GTSpec front strut tower brace (http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-front-strut-brace-subaru-legacy-gt-and-outback-2010) Suspension: -AirLift Autopilot v2 Management System (http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/AUTOPILOT-V2-MANAGEMENT-PACKAGE.html) -Dual 400c compressors -5 gallon air tank -3/8” air line -AirLift Subaru WRX GD air struts front and rear (http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/SUBARU-WRX-GD-AIR-LIFT-FRONT-STRUTS.html) (http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/SUBARU-WRX-GD-AIR-LIFT-REAR-STRUTS.html) -ISC v2 lower control arms (https://subimods.com/isc-rear-adjustable-control-arms-v2-2008-2014-wrx-2008-2014-sti-2009-2013-fxt-2013-2014-brz-by-isc-suspension-for-575-00.html) -GTSpec rear toe arms (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/GTSpec-SUS-1407-Rear-Adjustable-Toe-Arms) -Kartboy rear endlinks (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Kartboy-Rear-Endlinks-Subaru-Models-inc-2008-2011-WRX-STI) -Whiteline rear subframe positive traction kit - (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-Rear-Subframe-Positive-Traction-Kit-Subaru-Models-inc-2008-2011-WRX-STI) -Whiteline rear diff positive power kit bushings - (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/symbolic_link.cfm?symbolic_link_text=Whiteline-Rear-Diff-Positive-Power-Kit-Bushings-Subaru-Models-inc-2008-2011-WRX-STI) -Whiteline rear trailing arm front bushings - ](http://www.rallysportdirect.com/symbolic_link.cfm?symbolic_link_text=Whiteline-W0568-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Front-Bushing-Kit) -Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings - Wheels/Tires -WORK Schwert SC2 w/custom white polish accents 19x10 +22 -15mm Ichiba spacers - not installed yet (https://www.ichibausa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SU%2D50915) -Yokohama S. Drive tires 225/40/19 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/f8c9a9c611221caf694f2cdb7c3f7ab9.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/1cd8a69783f9d4cfe3f504c7466b2681.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/4ea1cacca021565dad309d1213ac0003.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/89b0756d4cbc987c173095b10b6a5971.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/ca2ef54f16a7d80b36aca4429e0d6852.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/2560d46a98d760ce02b26444bc5182ee.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Beautiful car bro! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manik1770 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 looking awesome man - one of the nicest looking I've seen. question: I see you're installing 15mm spacers as well along with your 10 +22 setup. I take it you rolled, but you'd probably have to do a slight pull as well once you get the spacers in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yes, they are rolled. I'm also having the rear fender lips cut down, specifically the plastic portion from the bumper. I do not plan on pulling the fenders. The 15mm spacers are actually intended to add a bit of noticeable camber when aired out and driving. I also have a decently stretched tire. Without the stretched tires and without the spacers, you would need to pull the fenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardGT Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Awsome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 -AirLift Subaru WRX GD air struts front and rear (http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/SUBARU-WRX-GD-AIR-LIFT-FRONT-STRUTS.html) (http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/SUBARU-WRX-GD-AIR-LIFT-REAR-STRUTS.html) How'd you manage to get the GD struts to mount up in the rear? I would think the GR rear struts would bolt right in, but they do look kinda short... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Lengths are not the issue, just the mounting points. The mounting points actually unscrew from the air strut and can be replaced with a legacy bracket. The brackets may be a little longer than the GD ones but I didn't really measure before they went in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Lengths are not the issue, just the mounting points. The mounting points actually unscrew from the air strut and can be replaced with a legacy bracket. The brackets may be a little longer than the GD ones but I didn't really measure before they went in. If the length isn't an issue, then why not go with the GR struts that already have the same top and bottom mounts as the 5th gen? Just seems like extra work and I wondered if there was a specific reason for going that route. AirLift looks like they've really stepped up their game since the last time I browsed their stuff. Good looking equipment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 I really love their products and customer support. Great company. Anyway, when I was talking to my sponsor shop about bags, they contacted Bag Riders to see what the options were. The owner, Will, said the GD struts would be perfect. I didn't really question why haha. After all, they were the ones who contacted me the following day offering a partial sponsorship and a spot at their WBM booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Finally got the car back from rebuilding the sub frame. Replaced all bushings and a few bolts. Somehow, the car still squeaks/creaks in the driver side rear. Like I said, ALL bushings were replaced. I have ISC v2 control arms, GTSpec toe arms, and airlift struts. Squeak has been going on since February when it was very faint and has gotten progressively worse since. It happens 24/7, not just little bumps, but normal driving. Hoping someone has any ideas. Otherwise, I may be looking at selling the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gforce13 Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Could it possibly be a wheel bearing? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 The location of the noise doesn't really make much sense. I've been under the car when we replicate the noise and it seems to come from the area around the strut/upper control arm mounting points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisCrash Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 FWIW, I hit a bad pothole yesterday, may have messed something up, now I have a creaking noise in my front passenger wheel well when I go over bumps. It also seems to sound like its coming from the top of the strut assembly. I wonder if it loosened up and now the grit is moving around making things loose. I'm keeping an eye on it and I'll let you know if I find anything else out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clean13 Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Have you checked the toe arms? If the rubber pillow bushing is ripped on them they will make a very loud and high pitched squeeking noise non stop. The aftermarket ones usually get destroyed pretty easily in new england too. Take a stethoscope under the car with you next time and put it where the toe arm and control arm meet and have someone push the wheel up and down. If it's coming from there, lube the shit out of it and see if it goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Have you checked the toe arms? If the rubber pillow bushing is ripped on them they will make a very loud and high pitched squeeking noise non stop. The aftermarket ones usually get destroyed pretty easily in new england too. Take a stethoscope under the car with you next time and put it where the toe arm and control arm meet and have someone push the wheel up and down. If it's coming from there' date=' lube the shit out of it and see if it goes away.[/quote'] I'll take a look there but the noise is more of a low tone creaking than a high pitched squeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Some of the 2010's had an issue with the adhesive (not enough) between the body (chassis) steel layers in the vicinity of the rear suspension/trunk area from the factory. There is a TSB where they add more adhesive and hit some of the panels with a ball peen hammer in particular places to add rigidity to fix the creaking sound. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Okay GTEASER, I think you just saved my arse here. Showed your post to the guys at the shop and we agree this sounds exactly like what it is. Sending my vin to one of the guys to look for the TSB. Thanks, man! Hopefully this is what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBopper Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Check here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4674096&postcount=11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Thanks Bopper, but that isn't in the right location and doesn't sound like the same issue. GTEASER, do you happen to have the TSB number or a link? Can't find anything myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 That was the one I was thinking about but I had forgotten that it was a popping sound. I was racking my brain today to try to come up with anything to help you out. Does your VIN fall in the TSB range? Did the creaking start when you bagged? Im just wondering if the mechanical cause of the popping described in the TSB has perhaps "softened" over time but never presented itself, and when you bagged it changed some of the suspension forces acting on the chassis, and the time softened popping is presenting as a creak instead. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 I appreciate any help, especially considering this is so bad I'm actually considering selling the car. We're talking about the last portion of the VIN, correct? If that's the case, it appears I fall in the range before the fix (says starting around D* and mine is A*). The noise has been present much longer than I've had the bags. It was noticeable but not gut wrenching and did not occur the whole time the car was being driven until maybe the last 3 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clean13 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 How much you selling the leggy for? Haha I sure do miss mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Haha everything has a price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_Titus Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Update for anyone following. The squeak/creak was discovered. It is the joint where the ISC V2 rear lower control arms bolt into the subframe. They have a decent amount of play in them which is causing the noise. The shop confirmed this in the attached video. Will be trying to replace them under warranty as they have only been on the car for 3-4 months. The shop claims this is due to dirt getting in the joint and rubbing like sandpaper, deteriorating the bushing and creating play. Any advice as to what can be done to prevent this from happening in the future? Has anyone experienced the same issue? https://vimeo.com/135526722 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 SuperPro adjustable LCA's. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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