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My turn to adjust valve clearances :)


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I work at SIA, in the body shop. I went over to the engine shop a few months ago when I was doing the 2009 OBXT.

 

The new motors don't use buckets anymore. They have roller rockers but, the lash is set with small caps that cover the end of the valve stem. They are of various sizes like the bucket method.

 

It was explained to me that the valve lash is calculated and set by an assembly machine.

 

Then checked by a human readjusted if needed and then further down the line it is checked again by a machine (after the head is on the motor).

 

They weren't running at the time. It would be hard to get over there while they are running as I am expected to be near my line diligently waiting for a break down:rolleyes:

 

I'd like to get that calcuation/program, as its the same one the FSM uses.

It was explained to me that the valve lash is calculated and set by an assembly machine.
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"Calculated" is a my fancy word for adjusting the stack up of the valve stem and the lash cap to cause output of a linear transducer fall between 2 values in the PLC.

 

Another thing is the price of the "valve shim" vs the "lifter" is approx $8 vs $26 retail.

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"Calculated" is a my fancy word for adjusting the stack up of the valve stem and the lash cap to cause output of a linear transducer fall between 2 values in the PLC.

 

Another thing is the price of the "valve shim" vs the "lifter" is approx $8 vs $26 retail.

I'm guessing the machining costs are much less, too. The valve lash bucket has some very close tolerances.

 

thanks for info.

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Something else I found interesting:

 

The new motors have the big end of the connecting rods split at 45 degrees to the length of the rod.

 

This allows the piston and rod to be installed as a assembly rather than the way the previous engines had to put together. As the rod bolts can be accessed after the crank and case halves are assembled.

 

Also, the connecting rod big end is literally split (fractured) at the mating surface rather than having 2 ground surfaces. The mating irregular shapes apparently cause the halves to align, if you can envision the surface of 2 pieces of broken cast iron.

 

 

I've been dieing to find a picture of the bottom end and trying to picture this. All it took was the friken contecting rod shape to change to be able to do that?

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Formulas, according to FSM, are:

NBS = (CBS+MCLE)-.20mm for intake side

NBS = (CBS+MCLE)-.35mm for exhaust side

 

NBS stands for 'NEW BUCKET SIZE'

CBS stands for 'CURRENT BUCKET SIZE'

MCLE stands for 'MEASURED CLEARANCE'

 

I modified the name of the variables :rolleyes:

 

NOTE: all above variables are assumed to be in mm, not inches.

 

Ok got it I assume the number is located someplace on the bucket?

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I work at SIA, in the body shop. I went over to the engine shop a few months ago when I was doing the 2009 OBXT.

 

The new motors don't use buckets anymore. They have roller rockers but, the lash is set with small caps that cover the end of the valve stem. They are of various sizes like the bucket method.

 

It was explained to me that the valve lash is calculated and set by an assembly machine.

 

Then checked by a human readjusted if needed and then further down the line it is checked again by a machine (after the head is on the motor).

 

They weren't running at the time. It would be hard to get over there while they are running as I am expected to be near my line diligently waiting for a break down:rolleyes:

 

I've been dieing to find a picture of the bottom end and trying to picture this. All it took was the friken contecting rod shape to change to be able to do that?

 

1-3-2-4

 

Rather than litter this thread anymore I started a new one and posted some pdf links to FSM illustrations. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2015-engine-bottom-end-242790.html

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  • 2 weeks later...
Quick update. Got all the parts. Started to install the new buckets until I realized two of the buckets I ordered are NOT for our car :mad:. They have the right sizes, but smaller outer diameter (made for newer subies I think). Dang it!! That's what happens when you order parts late at night..
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Sodium valves have been around for 40 years. We used them in drag cars back in the 70's and they are NOT for street cars. They corrode from the inside out and the heads pop off of them after a while. NOT a good idea.
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According to my copy of the Subaru 2005 Mechanism and Function Book, the turbo engine comes stock with hollow-stem, sodium filled exhaust valves.

 

Not sure why F-M is making a big deal out of their new sodium filled valves. Seems like old tech, not new tech.

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The article sounded like the technology they were touting was the "small diameter deep drilling" allowing for smaller stem diameters with the sodium.

 

Not sure if it's new tech or just new for Federal Mogul.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update...

 

Finally gathered all the needed buckets and stuff. Yeah, I am slow...

 

Put the buckets and cams back. Tightened to spec. Next was to insert the cam oil seals. Two questions there:

1. Manual states to grease the 'lips' of the oil seals. I wasn't too sure where the 'lips' were. My thoughts were the inner part of the oil seal. Was I right? (see where you see the blue grease on the pic below).

2. I've been using my 32mm socket to push the oil seals in. But are there far enough in (see pic)?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=214057&d=1438783489

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=214058&d=1438783489

camseal_1.thumb.jpg.68e834dfb0f1cae037f36d2d32f16e37.jpg

camseal_2.thumb.jpg.4c8199ddff983773056036436b51adbf.jpg

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yup - same here, that looks good. Yes, grease goes on the inside lip. I sometimes put a very thin layer of ultra grey on the outside perimeter, and tap it in evenly with a socket just like you did. You don't want to go too far. And it needs to end up straight or it will leak.
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Thanks guys. Then I 'just' need to put back the timing belt and stuff and recheck clearance :). So far, I checked cylinder 4 intake and exhaust clearance and they are spot on. I am not checking cylinder 2 yet, as its clearance get affected with timing belt load.
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Interesting trivia about the engine in the Nissan GTR:

 

“When GT-R production started in 2007, valve clearance adjustment was by machine, but now everything is by hand – measuring, tightening, measuring again. After manual checks and confirmation, only then do we deliver to our customers.”

 

http://reports.nissan-global.com/EN/?p=10948

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Watched the Youtube vids of the AMS version of the GTR. Man that thing is fast.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcHumlKI5EE]AMS GT-R Takes Down THREE 2,000hp Lambo's!!! - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

Back on topic. Made some progress last night: cam pulleys are installed. Timing belt is now ready to put back on. Once it's on, I'll check clearance again. Getting a bit anxious now..

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Interesting trivia about the engine in the Nissan GTR:

 

“When GT-R production started in 2007, valve clearance adjustment was by machine, but now everything is by hand – measuring, tightening, measuring again. After manual checks and confirmation, only then do we deliver to our customers.”

 

http://reports.nissan-global.com/EN/?p=10948

 

Anybody see the "big hammer" in this pic - http://reports.nissan-global.com/EN/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/130619_Yokohama_Takumi-8090.jpg - or was that me being hopeful they put them together like the rest of us?

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One more update :rolleyes:: everything is put back on! I am waiting another 6 hours for the rtv to cure on the valve cover before I start her up (24hrs curing..). Pretty anxious right now :spin:

 

 

Oh also. I did check the valve clearance after the timing belt was put back on. Everything is in specs (slightly on the looser side as planned). :)

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