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My turn to adjust valve clearances :)


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One more update :rolleyes:: everything is put back on! I am waiting another 6 hours for the rtv to cure on the valve cover before I start her up (24hrs curing..). Pretty anxious right now :spin:

 

 

Oh also. I did check the valve clearance after the timing belt was put back on. Everything is in specs (slightly on the looser side as planned). :)

Smart move checking the clearances before putting the cover back on :cool:

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Well, well, well... She is alive!!! Before I turned the engine on, I made sure everything got well lubricated (by pressing clutch pedal+throttle pedal to the floor+cranking the engine). Then I started her up. Started right away and runs beautifully. Not even one roughness count on any cylinder!! So happy so far. We went for a drive, turned on the AC, cruised a bit. The car runs great.

 

One little or fairly medium annoyance though: after the drive, I did check the engine bay for any leak. Looks like one or both of my cam seals are leaking :(. Took the cover off and saw a bit of fresh oil there. I don't know if the seals will settle or something. But I'll keep an eye on them. If they still leak, well TB+cam pulleys off again! :mad: Should be another 2.5 hr job.

 

Apart from that, very happy with the outcome. Oh, and the Invidia catted downpipe is in the garage ready to be installed :cool:

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Thanks man.

 

I also forgot to mention that it is so nice to have a car idling without any cabin shake! I got so used to it, that now it is weird that the car does not shake whatsoever at idle. I can't even tell if the engine is on. It's crazy. Hopefully, it'll stay this way.

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Dude, I hope not. I did remember seeing the warning in the manual stating to use small amount of RTV. I made sure I only put a very small amount.. But you never know I guess.. Man that would suck real bad if it's it.

 

 

Congratulations!

Did you happen to record the difference in clearance after the timing belt went on?

 

thanks. No I did not :(.

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Quick update.. Cleaned up the oil that was on the inside of the TB cover behind the cam pulleys. Went for a 40 mile drive, with a mix of boost and stuff. Checked the TB cover again after the drive. It was dry. So crossing fingers it'll stay that way. Will check after another 50-100 miles..
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I have done another 60 miles yesterday with my family. Checked the TB cover again afterwards. Still dry. Promising... Please, please stay this way :).

 

On a side note, I am still amazed at how the car runs. It idles so smooth. Actually it never idled like this since I owned it (6 years of ownership, but only did 35k so far with it). And it is set at the stock idle rpm level too, which I kept hearing was too low. But now, I don't think so. I think it is just right. My conclusion: if the car shakes a bit at idle, something is just not right with the engine..

I have also noticed at idle that it is able to maintain target timing value (12 deg) very consistently, whereas before it was not the case.

 

Also, now that I reflect on the buckets I installed, I am kina surprised why one of the exhaust valves for #2 needed such a small bucket (442). 438 is the smallest available size I could see in the FSM. So that is just strange that this valve had to have such a small size bucket compared to the others. FWIW, I know that the French mechanics who worked on my car 2 years ago cleaned the valves and stuff. I don't know if this is due to that.

 

In any case, I will feel completely satisfied after at least 1000 miles of mixed driving. For now, I am staying cautious..

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I have an idea that can satisfy us both. You drive down here and fix my car.

 

Too bad you're far away. Or else I'll be happy to help you (I am not a pro though by any means!). Have to say though, I am a bit baffled with what's going on with your car. You've tried almost everything now. So I don't know anymore :(. But don't loose hope. You'll figure it out.

 

Side note: I updated post 4 where I recorded the total cost for this fix.

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^That area looks actually pretty nice. Will keep that in mind if we ever drive in that area.

 

Also, I forgot to mention the following which I think is important: I kept hearing on forums that the subie factory tends to set valve clearances on the tight side to keep the engine noise quiet. I have set my clearances on the looser side (+0.02mm from target) for all valves. The engine noise after the valve clearance fix has not changed. It sounds pretty quiet to me still. So I am not sure if the above claim is true really. Just putting this out there.

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Well, well, well... She is alive!!!

 

On a scale of 0-10, how would you rate the difficulty of this whole job you have just completed?

 

My first experience with adjusting valve lash was with VW air-cooled flat four engines, several decades ago. They required adjusting every 3000 miles, as I recall. But the job was very easy. Literally 15 seconds to remove the valve covers once you were under the car. Adjusting required a screwdriver and an open end wrench. The only new parts required were a pair of cork VC gaskets.

The overall difficulty was 0.5 :lol:

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On a scale of 0-10, how would you rate the difficulty of this whole job you have just completed?

 

My first experience with adjusting valve lash was with VW air-cooled flat four engines, several decades ago. They required adjusting every 3000 miles, as I recall. But the job was very easy. Literally 15 seconds to remove the valve covers once you were under the car. Adjusting required a screwdriver and an open end wrench. The only new parts required were a pair of cork VC gaskets.

The overall difficulty was 0.5 :lol:

 

I am not too sure really. It did not feel like a real difficult job. It just took time. And keep in mind I left the engine in the car. So, maybe a 6?

What I remember that took time and was a bit difficult:

-removing the valve cover. one particular bolt was hard to get to. And I had to pry the engine from the car frame so I could take out the valve cover.

-putting the rtv on the head and carefully replacing the valve cover was a bit tough due to the tight space. You won't be able to use a torque wrench for some bolts

-not necessarily difficult, but follow the FSM very carefully on how much and where to put rtv on the cam caps!

-taking the cam bolts may be a difficult and time consuming job if they're stuck. But the method I described in my 2nd post helps a lot. I'll always use that method from now on.

 

I've done a few timing belt jobs, so I no longer consider that job difficult. Other than that, it just takes time really.

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I have done another 60 miles yesterday with my family. Checked the TB cover again afterwards. Still dry. Promising... Please, please stay this way :).

 

^Added another 200 miles. checked inner tb cover last night. Still dry :). I believe I am in the clear then.

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