MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Took my car in to the shop for compression and leak down tests. cyl 1-3: ~130psi, leak down passed. cyl4: 110psi, 40% leakdown So, I'm in new short block territory, and I start class in a month, so no way ill retackling this myself... I got quoted $7,700 for: -new short block -killerb oil pickup -ARP headstuds -oil cooler -gates timing kit -gaskets/hondabond etc. -head rebuilds -spark plugs -oil/filter/shop fees etc. -dyno tune seems pricey-ish. But what do I know. Yay, nay? MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPooky_leggy Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 thats around ballpark from what other people have said, 4-7k is the magic number for a #ynansb stock rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 *quietly sobs in corner* MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Can you do the R&R yourself and have a machine shop do the rest ? Have you read my click here link ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 I have no problem doing it myself. My only problem is time... This needs to be done in three weeks, as I'm starting not only a full time job, but summer classes as well. Which isn't possible as far as I've seen. How long does the typical machine shop take to rehab a set of heads? I talked to the shop and they told me a whopping three months to get this done! I quite literally don't have the means to be without a car for that long... I'd hate to have to sell this for cheap and get myself a sh*tbucket, but it's looking that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Can you do the R&R yourself and have a machine shop do the rest ? Have you read my click here link ? Just read through all 21 pages. Nicely done, sir. I'm preparing to preemptively swap sometime in the near future. Nice to get all this info. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 For all Tris's yammering about your manhood being at risk by having someone else replace the engine, time is an vital resource to have when doing the project. I know I wouldn't have the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacygtr Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 I was in the same boat as you two months ago. You don't want to work all day come home do homework for 4 hours and then work on the car until u fall asleep under it. To me, time is worth the money to have someone else do it. Your quote is exactly what it should be. Exactly what mine was anyways. Got my car back from the tuner yesterday made 275 whp and is in good shape again. Good luck man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 I was in the same boat as you two months ago. You don't want to work all day come home do homework for 4 hours and then work on the car until u fall asleep under it. To me, time is worth the money to have someone else do it. Your quote is exactly what it should be. Exactly what mine was anyways. Got my car back from the tuner yesterday made 275 whp and is in good shape again. Good luck man you mind me asking how long it took? They're telling me three months to do everything... The classes I'm taking aren't easy, so I don't really want to be obligated to be doing some other massive project. I totally agree with you. But, if push comes to shove.... MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacygtr Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 I have no problem doing it myself. My only problem is time... This needs to be done in three weeks, as I'm starting not only a full time job, but summer classes as well. Which isn't possible as far as I've seen. How long does the typical machine shop take to rehab a set of heads? I talked to the shop and they told me a whopping three months to get this done! I quite literally don't have the means to be without a car for that long... I'd hate to have to sell this for cheap and get myself a sh*tbucket, but it's looking that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'd find another shop though. I had all of that done in two weeks by my builder. Limped my car for 1k miles and then got it tuned somewhere else. If I were u I'd get ur car put together somewhere where all they do is builds(where they will most likely send your heads out somewhere where all they do is heads) and when it is all buttoned up take it to a tuner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacygtr Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 3 months is crazy tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codger2 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Well worth paying to get it done. $8000-$14,000 CDN, depending if you go reman vs forged built boutique installed, ($6500-$11,000 USD) here in Canada. Not a trivial expense, but most of us don't have enough spare hours in the day to knock it off in a timely fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 I'd find another shop though. I had all of that done in two weeks by my builder. Limped my car for 1k miles and then got it tuned somewhere else. If I were u I'd get ur car put together somewhere where all they do is builds(where they will most likely send your heads out somewhere where all they do is heads) and when it is all buttoned up take it to a tuner. That's precisely the place where I have it. P&L Motorsports, near Chicago. Pretty much all they do is WRX/STI builds, and they would be sending my heads off to somewhere. 3 months is crazy tho I get it's summer and everything, but they said six weeks is even being VERY generous. I was expecting a month max. I mean, do machine shops really get that backlogged? MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecheese Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 I just dropped off some heads at wernermachineltd.com/ got sent there by the shop that did my local dealers machine work and in turn outsourced it here. They said I would have them back by the end of next week. Not to far from you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Did the leak down test indicate bad rings or head problems? Air seeping into PCV system (bad rings) or air seeping into intake or exhaust tracts (bad valve)? Could be a bad/burned valve or ringlands... 110 is kind of high for a broken ringland, albeit at too large of a difference compared to other cylinders. Test done wet or dry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Test was conducted on warm engine, so I would say wet? I've never dealt with leakdown/compression tests before, so I apologize for not learning the terminology! They didn't tell me where it came from, they just said it looks like I have a broken ring land. However, I do agree with you, usually a broken ring land means you have a cylinder sitting at 75psi, not just 10psi short of acceptable. And seeing as the wagon was on it's stock tune for 189,000 and the bad cylinder is #4 I feel like its a valve issue. Looks like I'm gonna have to turn the engine over by hand and listen for hissing in the exhaust. the official results are: Cylinder 1: 130, leakdown okay Cylinder 2: 130, 10% Cylinder 3: 125, leakdown okay Cylinder 4: 110, 35%(first test), 40%(second test) MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I'd just hate for you to get a new shortblock on order, have it delivered, pull your engine, pull the heads, and then realize you have a burnt valve instead of a broken ringland... y'know? Very well could be a broken ringland considering you have an 18% difference in compression between them and you may want to get a new shortblock even if it is a head because it's already out and you're most of the way there. Tough call. Your $$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Wet versus dry compression tests have to do with the oiling. Dry means it was done with the engine as is, warm or cold. Wet means after doing a dry test on a cylinder, a little oil is squirted in the plug hole to "lube" and "seal" the rings, and then the test is done again on that cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 For the time period you have, I would recommend calling Infamous to see if he has a long block ready to go, and see if he would give you a core charge on your current long block (save some $$). Once you get the new long block, all you have to do is swap the external parts on and install. Shouldn't take you more than a weekend to do. Just another option. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 I'd just hate for you to get a new shortblock on order, have it delivered, pull your engine, pull the heads, and then realize you have a burnt valve instead of a broken ringland... y'know? Very well could be a broken ringland considering you have an 18% difference in compression between them and you may want to get a new shortblock even if it is a head because it's already out and you're most of the way there. Tough call. Your $$$. The block has 196,000 miles on it, for the extra $1600 I would feel stupid not replacing it. My goal if I go through with this is to have an engine that'll last me the next 60k I'll put on it throughout college, then drive it till 190k when it dies again Wet versus dry compression tests have to do with the oiling. Dry means it was done with the engine as is, warm or cold. Wet means after doing a dry test on a cylinder, a little oil is squirted in the plug hole to "lube" and "seal" the rings, and then the test is done again on that cylinder. Well, now I know! No, the tests were not performed wet, but like I said, I might as well, while I'm in there... For the time period you have, I would recommend calling Infamous to see if he has a long block ready to go, and see if he would give you a core charge on your current long block (save some $$). Once you get the new long block, all you have to do is swap the external parts on and install. Shouldn't take you more than a weekend to do. Just another option. I'll send him a PM and inquire. Depending in cost, that may be a godsend! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 For the time period you have, I would recommend calling Infamous to see if he has a long block ready to go, and see if he would give you a core charge on your current long block (save some $$). Once you get the new long block, all you have to do is swap the external parts on and install. Shouldn't take you more than a weekend to do. Just another option. I'll send him a PM and inquire. Depending in cost, that may be a godsend! That's the route I'm going to take when mine pops... drop in a long block to minimize down time, then part out what's good on my original engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Whats the price difference between short/long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Whats the price difference between short/long? Short= engine block, crank, rods, pistons. All assembled etc. Long= short block + completed heads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grothe08LGT Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 If you're not afraid to travel 5 hours, I HIGHLY recommend Off The Line Performance here in Iowa. Rebuild and tune all in one shop (boosted performance tuning). Can't beat the prices Justin can get, and Mikey is said to be one of the best techs in the Midwest.. http://offthelineperformance.com https://m.facebook.com/BoostedPerformanceTuning?refsrc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FBoostedPerformanceTuning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 14, 2015 Moderators Share Posted May 14, 2015 PM riderdude to see if he can hook you up with a full longblock for around $3K. It should be ready to go minus peripherals. A shop or decent mechanic can probably swap out the busted for new for $1k-$1500 labor and you will be good to go. Then you can tear down the old block to see what's up, rebuild or resell to recoup some cost. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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