Rhitter Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Thanks Gator. I don't actually know if it's an oil or a water issue. It first happened 100% stock (stage 1 tune) going over from the mountains from to Mammoth area (up above Yosemite). 95+ degrees, low gears, high RPMs. Probably old style pump. Timing belt changed + water pump (probably new style). Still happened. Stage one tune. One track day. End of the day (last run), I had to slow down a lot, it was just too hot and my car wasn't dumping heat fast enough. Never hit the red. Wasn't monitoring temps with anything but the OEM gauge. As soon as I slowed down temps dropped quickly. I added a Koyo rad in the hopes that I would have issues anymore. Lost compression in #4 at some point. Rebuilt with new style (probably) water pump and 11mm oil pump. I added a KillerBee oil pan/pickup/baffle. Figured the extra oil + radiator there would be no way it gets hot. Still does. But, luckily this only happens at high RPMS, high ambient temps, with AC on full and me pushing the car. I'll re-look at your thread to see if I can track down identifying if it is the oil or the water that gets hot first. @Schralp, I added a Koyo rad too (did it myself), it's a decent amount bigger than the stock radiator and holds 2ish gallons of coolant. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Yes. And less cavitation at high RPMs. At least that's the theory. There's some data backing that up here and on NASIOC. Reason I went looking for it and wouldn't buy until I knew that's the one I was getting. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I used the old style water pump and 10mm oil pump. Never had problems until some mechanic left his rag in the cooling system. even on 90 degree days on the oem radiator. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 OB2.5XT one other thought..."coolant" is not really coolant. The higher % of "coolant" in your radiator to water, the worse the radiator performs in the heat. 100% water performs significantly better than 50/50 mix. The best mix is 99.9% water and a little Water Wetter or Purple Ice. The WW or Purple Ice acts as a lubricant, corrosion inhibitor, and helps the water transfer heat to the aluminum radiator. You just have to remember to flush your radiator in the fall and put anti-freeze "coolant" in for the winter! WW and PI will not act as an Anti-Freeze. That would be by far the cheapest solution to your problem. I run them in my race car and only put anti-freeze in it for winter hibernation. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Distilled water is cheap. I'm still on the fence if after the rebuild will put the "Subaru Conditioner" in it. Putting stop leak in a new motor seems a little strange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Distilled water is cheap. I'm still on the fence if after the rebuild will put the "Subaru Conditioner" in it. Putting stop leak in a new motor seems a little strange. Side tracking this thread a lot. But is there a better coolant (anti-freeze) that doesn't have the conditioner in it? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 After some discussion with a friend we came to the conclusion to stay with Subaru recommendation. Reason why is OEM get's millions of dollars in research to ensure longevity. So in this case I will be using the Subaru coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water and conditioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 That conditioner is nothing more than a stop-leak bandaid for the headgasket failures of the 90's-00's 2.5s. I wouldn't use it unless you think, or are concerned that your HG is going. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Does the Subaru Long life Super Coolant 50/50 pre-diluted antifreeze and engine coolant contain contain conditioner? is there a difference between coolant and conditioner? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Conditioner is a separate little bottle of brown sludge... stopleak. As for using the subaru coolant and the stop leak (conditioner) it's recommended. Mechanical failure prevention is the goal. I ran the coolant from new. Never had a full blown HG failure until I completed a system flush... Weeks later full blown HG pukage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 The conditioner can only do it's job if there is a leak to begin with. So what you experienced may have been a case of the bandaid finally coming off, leading to failure. Or maybe it was a coincidence. IMO, it's not going to help (only hinder) a 100% healthy motor. Not many of us are at 100%, though LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Agreed. I was seeing symptoms before the flush. It's only a couple oz that will not hurt being there on a fresh motor. So why not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Side tracking this thread a lot. But is there a better coolant (anti-freeze) that doesn't have the conditioner in it? I use the zerex asian car formula (pink) for 50k in both of my subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Switch to evans waterlesss coolant and never worry about it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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